[Google Maps Remote Island Patrol Journey] #21 Nagasaki Edition: Ukujima

Ukujima

” The end of the sea, built by those who fled the world and the god of fire ”

■ Previous Remote Island Scroll

If you wish to see the previous travelogue, please proceed from here.

■ What is Ukujima?

Do you know of the island reached by the "scion of the Taira clan who was banished from the capital"?
Or perhaps the island where fire and earth have been telling their story for a million years?

Here lies that land. It is called Ukujima—.

Beyond the western sea, about sixty ri from the port of Sasebo, a journey of an hour and a half by boat. Located at the northernmost tip of the Goto Islands, it is a remote island like a hidden village, protected by waves and wind.

This island was born about 1.9 million years ago. It is a basalt island that rose due to the earth's fury and volcanic eruptions. Its black rocky surface stands dignified, like the back of a samurai wearing armor.

It is said that Lord Iemori, the younger brother of Taira no Kiyomori, who escaped the wars of the Genpei, reached this Uku and landed at Hitakizaki. Because it is an inlet where boats were hidden, it is still called "Funakakushi" (Boat Hiding Place), and the name still echoes quietly in the sound of the tide.

At its center towers the magnificent Mount Jogatake, known by the nickname "Goto Fuji." At the foot of the mountain, rare flowers called 'higotai' bloom, and loaches, medaka, and even wild eels thrive, making it a truly life-filled island.

Furthermore, Nagasaki Wagyu cattle grazing takes place all over the island, where the sky, greenery, and cattle blend together like a painting, and it is said that the yellowback sea bream, considered the best in Japan, is caught in the rich fishing grounds.

Those weary of the city's hustle and bustle, or those in pursuit of a story: if you set foot on this island, the scent of the tide, along with the history, nature, and the breath of its people, will quietly but surely stir your soul.

Ukujima—it is another "paradise of the samurai," where the dreams of those who escaped have taken root, nurtured by fire and sea.

■ First Location: Ohama Beach

On Ukujima, what captures the heart most is the white sandy beach known as "Ohama."
The scenery, often called a "miraculous beach," is truly like a treasure bestowed from heaven.

On this shallow beach, the scenery changes moment by moment with the ebb and flow of the tide; at high tide, the blue waves gently wash the white sand, and at low tide, a path of sand appears stretching far into the distance, as if heaven and earth were meeting.

What is particularly noteworthy is that almost no driftage washes up in this area.
As it is a beach kept in its natural state without human interference, it is a safe place for families to bring their children to relax.

Also, a white tower called the Otsushima Lighthouse stands dignifiedly amidst the waves, and apart from this, there is no sign of anything artificial, giving the impression that one has wandered into another world.

Furthermore, from September to March, the sunrise rises from beyond the eastern horizon, dyeing the white sand and the sea surface in crimson—a spiritual sight that one cannot help but worship.
If you spend a night here, you will feel as if even the grime of your heart has been washed away.

Traveler, if you feel weary in your heart, try visiting this Ohama beach.
The sound of the waves, the morning sun, the wind, and the white sand will embrace you without words and grant you a quiet healing.

■ Second Location: Tsushimazebana Lighthouse

At the northern tip of Ukushima, beyond the cliffs of Nogata, stands a white tower that rises with particular dignity. It is known as the Tsushimazebana Lighthouse. Gazing out at the sea, it has stood as a silent guardian for many years, serving as a beacon for ships crossing the vast ocean, much like a stoic samurai.

It stands at the edge of a ria coastline where cliffs and inlets overlap—a northern cape where the winds are strong and the tides are rough. Yet, the area is covered in green meadows, offering a magnificent view where the sky, earth, and sea seem to intersect. I have heard that both islanders and travelers alike are so captivated by this scenery that they are often left speechless.

Although this lighthouse is a man-made structure, it blends perfectly with nature, as if it were a divine marker bestowed by the heavens. It is widely known as a landscape that symbolizes Ukushima, so much so that many painters and chroniclers have taken up their brushes to capture it.

Furthermore, the rocky shore at the foot of the cape is a hidden gem for anglers. In this place where the currents run fast, many fish, including the Japanese black porpoise (kuro), can be caught, making it famous as a true "battlefield for fishing."

The white tower may not speak, but simply by standing there, the roar of the waves, the whisper of the wind, and the blueness of the sky will surely leave an impression on the traveler's heart.
I, too, wish to stand in this place one day.

■ Third Location: Landing Site of Taira no Koremori (Hitakizaki)

Going back some eight hundred years—
When the world was in turmoil due to the flames of the Genpei War and the glory of the capital crumbled overnight, the Taira clan was scattered to the winds.

Among them was the younger brother of Lord Kiyomori, Taira no Iemori. Having fled the capital and crossed the sea to escape the eyes of his pursuers, the place he finally reached was
Ukushima Island.

The place where Lord Iemori brought his boat ashore is Hitakizaki. The cove, surrounded by rocks, was considered a perfect place to hide a boat and has been called "Fune-kakushi" (Boat Hiding Place) since ancient times; it is truly a land of strange rocks and marvelous scenery.

Once you set foot on that land, the scent of the tide and the breath of ancient times drift through the air.
Standing at the water's edge and looking out toward the distant continent, one can feel a connection to the heart of Lord Iemori, who chose this land in search of a place of peace.

For the islanders, this legend is a source of pride.
A monument stands at the landing site, and visitors press their hands together in prayer, reflecting on his fate and the silence of the place.

If you walk on Ukushima, do not leave without touching these footsteps of Lord Taira no Iemori. It is not merely a historical site—it is a piece of the island's soul, woven by the waves, the wind, and the prayers of the people.

■ The Fourth Place: Arare Sabo

Not far from the port of Uku, you will arrive at a building that retains the atmosphere of a private residence.
A barrel of coffee beans displayed at the eaves gently welcomes visitors, and once you open the door, you find a space where silence and warmth truly intersect.

This shop is called Arare Sabo, and it is a tea house and tavern filled with culinary skill and heart, dedicated to conveying the seasonal blessings of Uku through food every day.

The signature dish is, without a doubt, the Nagasaki Wagyu roast beef. It is tender, rich in flavor, and truly makes one feel as if spring has arrived on the tongue with a single bite. The sweets, made using fruits and ingredients harvested on the island, are also highly regarded by the ladies.

However, the true pride of the shop lies in the daily "Omakase Zen" (Chef's Choice Meal).
The dishes, prepared one by one with heart and centered on seasonal vegetables of the day, possess an unadorned beauty and a powerful, savory depth within their simplicity.

In addition, this tea house is also exploring new forms of island souvenirs, and is putting effort into pioneering new flavors, such as juice made from the red treasure of Goto—tomatoes. Their dedication to constant improvement is truly a mirror for those who devote themselves to the path of business.

Traveler, do not return from Ukushima without stopping by this teahouse.
It will surely add color to your journey, offering a moment that not only fills your belly but also warms your heart.

■ Fifth Location: Katchan

Just a five-minute walk from the Ukudaira port, along the town street, stands an eatery affectionately known by the islanders as "Katchan." Though the building is simple, its flavors and spirit are truly not to be underestimated.

What made the name "Katchan" known to the world is none other than the Whale Cutlet Curry.
In Ukushima, where people have lived alongside the sea since ancient times, whale is a precious source of sustenance. Wrapped in a tender batter, fried fragrantly in oil, and served with a fragrant, special curry sauce, this dish is like tasting the history and climate of the island in a single bite.

However, the menu does not end there. From the Salted Mackerel set meal to fried chicken, and various platters using island rice and seasonal vegetables—all are unpretentious, yet heartfelt meals.

Furthermore, in recent years, a new face of the island has emerged: the Sea Bream Rice Set, a truly special treat served only by prior arrangement. Local fish, local rice, and local techniques—these three combined have become the pride of the island.

"Katchan" is a warm eatery for those seeking daily sustenance, and an unforgettable memory of flavor for travelers.
If you visit Ukushima, be sure to sit down at this establishment and enjoy the scent of the tide and the savory aroma of whale to your heart's content.

■ Sixth Location: Private Rental House - Ukushima Hidden Inn Enokiya

This is the edge of the Goto Islands, the land of Ukujima. In a place where the sound of the waves, the whisper of the wind, and the blueness of the sky all breathe in their true, unadulterated natural state, there lies a hidden inn called "Enokiya," quietly tucked away.

This inn is a truly luxurious one-group-per-day establishment, offering a private detached house rental. Though there are no fences or walls, before your eyes lies nothing but the vast sea and sky. It is a hermitage perfect for leaving behind the daily hustle and bustle, forgetting the time, and facing oneself.

Having "nothing" is the greatest luxury of this inn.
It may not be for those seeking excitement, but for those who make friends with silence and nature, there is no greater healing.

Wake up to the sound of the tide and the birds, boil water with the sunlight, and simply surrender yourself to the wind.
It is like a Shangri-La to which a hermit who has abandoned the world returns for a brief moment.

When you visit Ukujima, you should by all means savor this "luxury of nothingness" to your heart's content at this "Enokiya."
A true journey that unbinds the heart and cleanses the soul awaits you here.

Appendix: Great Map of Japan's Coastal Regions (Remote Island Tour)

■ Three Recommended Gifts from the Land of Sasebo 《Advertisement》

These are the gifts (hometown tax return gifts) from Ukujima in the Land of Sasebo that I, a samurai of Suwa, recommend with confidence.

❖ [Hometown Tax] Goto Islands Seasonal Local Fish Big Catch Set (approx. 3 servings) Sashimi, Grilled Fish, Fish Head/Bones, Yellowtail, Crimson Sea Bream, Ukujima

This is a selection of seasonal fresh fish caught at the shores of Uku, at the western tip of the Goto Islands, meticulously prepared and delivered directly to you in a chilled container.

Depending on the season, the fishermen's nets may bring in yellowtail kingfish, crimson sea bream, grunt, or scorpionfish—all renowned treasures of the sea. You may enjoy them as sashimi, or perhaps as grilled fillets for a side dish. Furthermore, we include the fish heads and bones, so you can savor the essence of the sea in a soup.

The total weight is about two kanme (approximately two kilograms). Since it arrives pre-processed and ready to use, there is no fuss in the kitchen, and you can serve it on your table immediately.

However, during stormy weather or when the catch is light, we may ask for your patience. We kindly ask for your understanding that there may be a wait of up to two months.

*Please note that shipments will be suspended from November 6th to November 22nd due to ship maintenance. Shipments will resume sequentially starting November 25th.

❖ [Furusato Nozei] Goto Islands Natural Fish Assorted Seafood Hot Pot (approx. 5 servings) Ukujima Fresh Fish White Fish Fillets Hot Pot Vacuum Packed Gift Mid-year Gift Year-end Gift

The natural seafood caught at Ukujima in the Goto Islands, at the far reaches of the western sea, is a gift from the gods of the ocean. We select the finest white fish such as grouper, red sea bream, and yellowtail kingfish, prepare them into convenient fillets, vacuum-seal them, and deliver them in a chilled container.

When you put them in a hot pot, the aroma rises immediately, and the rich, fatty flavor seeps out from the white meat. On cold days, you can gather around the brazier, watch the steam rise, and enjoy a family dinner together.

However, it is not just for winter; it is also perfect for the cheerful spring and summer seasons. You can grill it with butter for a fragrant dish, prepare it as a clear soup, or even enjoy a Western-style 'Acqua Pazza' to savor a different flair.

In total, we deliver three kanme (approximately three kilograms) of pre-processed fish, so you can serve it immediately without any extra work. It is a truly convenient preparation that is sure to be appreciated by any homemaker.

However, the sea is fickle, so in the event of rough weather or poor fishing, you may have to wait a month or two. We kindly ask for your understanding.

*Please note that shipments will be suspended from November 6th to November 22nd due to ship maintenance. Shipments will resume sequentially starting from the 25th.

❖ [Furusato Nozei] Goto Islands Ukushima Salted Sea Urchin Assortment

Ukushima is a remote island floating at the northern tip of the Goto Islands, at the edge of the western sea. This is a truly luxurious delicacy, carefully salted from fresh sea urchin raised in the rough rocky shores and tossed by the sound of the tide.

Its flavor is truly a jewel of the sea. With no unnecessary additives, the natural umami of the sea urchin is sealed in by the power of salt. One spoonful melts on the tongue, leaving a rich aftertaste along with the scent of the shore.

This assortment is delivered frozen in two jars, each containing 70 grams. As the flavor is at its peak with the arrival of summer, we plan to ship between June and July.

When eating, it is excellent served over freshly cooked white rice, and even better as a snack for drinks. It is guaranteed to be praised as a 'treasure delivered directly from the sea' by both men who love to drink and women alike.

The quality is maintained for 60 days from the date of shipment. Keep it frozen and enjoy it as a delight for a special meal whenever you wish.

■ Previous Google Maps Remote Island Tour

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