Enjoy the Breathtaking View of the Roman Forum from the Capitoline Hill in Rome! And Its Connection to Michelangelo
[Rome Travelogue] (4) The Capitoline Hill Designed by Michelangelo: A Symbolic Roman Structure Overlooking the Roman Forum
Now, we will begin to look at the structures of Ancient Rome.
Masumi Ishinabe cites the Capitoline Hill as the most appropriate place to start.
"All roads lead to Rome" is a very famous saying, but if you ask where in Rome they lead, it is to this Capitoline Hill. The Capitoline Hill was the zero point of the Roman Empire, a place that symbolized the power of the empire, so to speak. Therefore, among the many monuments remaining in Rome today, the Colosseum symbolizes Ancient Rome, and St. Peter's Basilica symbolizes Christian Rome; however, if one were to remove those boundaries and ask which 'place' symbolizes 'Rome,' I would answer without hesitation that it is the Capitoline Hill. Indeed, there is no better place than the Capitoline Hill to meditate on the history of Rome and understand the origins of the city.
In that sense, I believe that a tour of ancient Roman ruins should begin by standing on this Capitoline Hill. However, to reach the Capitoline, one must sometimes risk their life crossing a flood of cars. This is because Piazza Venezia, which was developed after unification, is a key traffic hub in Rome where cars never cease to flow. Yet, once you are greeted by the lion fountain and begin to climb the gently sloping 'Cordonata' (a staircase-lined path), the place takes on the atmosphere of another world.
Once you reach the top of the Cordonata, you arrive at the Piazza del Campidoglio. The building in front is the Palazzo Senatorio (City Hall), the one on the right is the Palazzo dei Conservatori, and the one on the left is the Palazzo dei Musei Capitolini; the square is surrounded by buildings on three sides, and the famous equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius is placed in the center. It is a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture and urban planning designed by Michelangelo.
This Piazza del Campidoglio, worked on by Michelangelo, is a work that fulfilled the dream of Renaissance Rome, so to speak, by rebuilding the dilapidated Capitoline Hill, and it took over 100 years to complete. Although there are many parts that are not exactly as Michelangelo designed, the overall concept and the particularly excellent architecture of the Palazzo dei Conservatori are worth appreciating slowly. I feel that Michelangelo is truly great as an architect and a draftsman rather than as a sculptor or painter. It is an unforgettable experience that I was struck by the intense originality of Michelangelo the architect at the Laurentian Library in Florence about five years ago, and this Piazza del Campidoglio never fails to meet my expectations whenever I visit.
" 'All roads lead to Rome' is a very famous saying, but if you ask where in Rome they lead, it is to this Capitoline Hill."
It is certainly interesting to learn the background of a phrase I only vaguely knew.
In that sense, Masumi Ishinabe's words that if you are going to study Ancient Rome, you should start here, are very convincing.
And above all, the point I want to highlight is that the current Capitoline Hill was designed by Michelangelo. When people think of Michelangelo, they might associate him with sculpture or 'The Last Judgment'.
However, Michelangelo also possessed excellent talent as an architect, such as in the design of the dome of St. Peter's Basilica.
Masumi Ishinabe also highly praises Michelangelo's talent as an architect. It is this Capitoline Hill where you can fully enjoy that talent.
And there is an even more important meaning to the Capitoline Hill.
What is the important meaning embedded in the Capitoline Hill?
By the way, I would like to draw your attention to two points.
One is the orientation of this square. In other words, it does not face the Roman Forum, which was the center of the ancient world, but rather faces the opposite direction, toward the medieval district and St. Peter's Basilica. As I will mention later, this confirms the most fundamental fact for understanding Rome: that there was a 'gap' between the center of the ancient world and the center of the medieval world.
And the other point is that the fact that the Pope (Paul III) developed the Capitoline Hill—which was a sacred site in ancient times and the seat of the Commune (city-state), which was a rival force to the Papal Curia in the Middle Ages—was an expression of the confidence of the Papal Curia, which had completely seized control of the city at the beginning of the 16th century. In that sense, the development of the Capitoline Hill by the Papal Curia was a groundbreaking major project that formed a pair with the construction of the new St. Peter's Basilica, which had already begun.
*Some line breaks have been added to make it easier to read on smartphones, etc.
Originally, the Capitoline Hill was a temple that served as the center of Ancient Rome. That is precisely why it faced the direction of the Roman Forum.
However, during the Renaissance in the 16th century, it was rebuilt to face the opposite direction, toward St. Peter's Basilica. There is a significant meaning in this.
The Roman Empire fell in the latter half of the 5th century. Upon the collapse of the empire, the Campidoglio, which housed the temples of the Roman Empire, was thoroughly destroyed. Since then, it had been left to fall into ruin.
However, just because the Roman Empire collapsed does not mean that all the powerful figures governing Rome disappeared. It was the Roman Catholic Church that took control of this land in place of the empire, and it is also a fact of Rome that there were powerful urban aristocrats. The city hall (Comune) on the Campidoglio served as the base for these local aristocrats. In a sense, this was also a territory of the indigenous Roman nobility that even the Catholic Church could not do as it pleased with.
The fact that it was rebuilt for the first time in the 16th century is a very significant event. It shows just how much the power of the Roman Catholic Church had grown. One tends to associate Rome with the Vatican or Catholicism, but in reality, it is not that simple. The history of this city is more complex than one might imagine.
Now, let's take a look at the actual Campidoglio.
Visiting the Campidoglio
The cobblestone slope in front of the Campidoglio. It is not a staircase, but it is not just a simple slope either; it has a unique shape. Walking on it gives you a strange sensation.
With every step, the view gradually opens up, and I feel a sense of exhilaration. Is this also part of Michelangelo's calculations?
After climbing the slope, I arrive at the Piazza del Campidoglio. The equestrian statue in the center is that of Marcus Aurelius. This is a replica, as the original is displayed in the Capitoline Museums here.
By the way, the famous statue of Emperor Constantine is also on display at these Capitoline Museums.
Seeing the statue of this emperor, known for legalizing Christianity and moving the capital from Rome to Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul), is another highlight of this museum.
Also, from the Campidoglio, you can get a panoramic view of the Roman Forum. It is a wonderful spot where you can thoroughly experience the Roman Forum by looking down on it from above. I now understand why Masumi Ishinabe stated, 'One should start their tour of ancient Roman ruins by standing on this Capitoline Hill.' Standing here heightens your sense of anticipation. I had booked my entry to the Roman Forum for a few days later, and I was filled with excitement, thinking, 'I am about to enter the world of ancient Rome.'
This is the Campidoglio I photographed from the Roman Forum a few days later (by the way, the photo of the blue sky over the Piazza del Campidoglio above was also taken at this time). In the ancient Roman era, the Campidoglio stood facing this way. Now, its back is turned toward us. Incidentally, the point from which I took the panoramic view of the Roman Forum above is around the upper left of this photo. I think you can see people there. I was also looking at the Roman Forum from that spot.
Finally, here is the state of the surrounding area, which Masumi Ishinabe described by saying, 'To reach the Campidoglio, one must sometimes risk their life crossing a flood of cars.'
It is true that there are many bus stops here, and cars are constantly driving by. Moreover, although there are crosswalks, there are no traffic lights. Therefore, you have no choice but to quickly dash across between the constant stream of cars. If you are not used to it, it is certainly frightening.
However, clearing these obstacles one by one to reach your destination is, in a sense, a fun experience that brings a sense of accomplishment. The spectacular views of the Campidoglio and the Roman Forum that I reached in this way give me an indescribable pleasure. This is something I cannot give up. It takes no time at all to become completely immersed in the charm of Rome. Even on my first day, I have already been captivated by the allure of Rome.
In the next article, I would like to talk about the Colosseum, which I visited a few days later.
To be continued
List of 'Italy/Rome Travelogue' articles can be found here
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Main References
Yoshikawa Kobunkan, Masumi Ishinabe, 'As Long as St. Peter's Stands: My Guide to Rome'
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