First of the Season! Strolling through Todai-ji: 'Nandaimon Gate and the Daibutsuden' - Exploring Todai-ji and its Vicinity (3)

It's already mid-April, and I finally made it to this year's main destination, Todai-ji!
Last year, I spent the whole year thoroughly exploring Horyu-ji, but this year I plan to conquer Todai-ji and its surrounding areas.

I was overwhelmed by the size and majesty of the Nandaimon Gate in the top image, and my heart was stirred by the depth of its history.
Of course, even though I've seen it many times, I still can't help but stop in front of it.

In particular, catching a glimpse of the Daibutsuden's massive roof beyond the Nandaimon Gate, with its golden, shining shibi (ridge-end tiles)at both ends, makes my heart race with excitement.
The shibi is based on the shape of a phoenix's wings and evolved into the 'shachihoko' (mythical carp) in later eras.
These are decorative tiles installed at both ends of the roof, and were mainly used in temples during the Asuka and Nara periods.
It is also one of the symbols that evokes the glamorous Tempyo culture of Todai-ji, which was founded in 728 during the Nara period.

Including that, I want to fully enjoy the charm of Todai-ji over the next year.

Todai-ji Friends Association

The mistake I made when joining the Friends Association

Since I was able to make full use of the Friends Association for Horyu-ji last time, I had already decided that I should definitely join for Todai-ji this year as well.

Many temples have raised their annual membership fees from 3,000 to 5,000 yen this year, but whether or not that price feels expensive depends on the individual.

Basically, I felt that if I think of it as a donation for 'cultural property protection' in support of Todai-ji's faith and initiatives, a small price increase is a trivial matter.
And once you join, admission to each hall and facility is free.
Being able to stroll through the entire grounds of the World Heritage site Todai-ji anytime and as many times as I want, as if it were my own garden, is a huge benefit.

Actually, when I joined this time, I applied through the online Friends Association portal, but even after two weeks, the payment slip for the membership fee hadn't arrived. When I inquired, they replied that it had already been sent, but since it still hadn't arrived after more than a week, I inquired again.
Thinking that there must be a reason it wasn't arriving, something crossed my mind.
-Did I make a mistake with the address when entering it online?-
So, when I checked the address over the phone, it turned out that the entire house number section was missing.
No wonder it didn't arrive! 💦

Since there was a possibility that I wouldn't make it in time for my first visit if I paid now and waited for the membership card, I decided to pay directly on-site when I went.

I asked Peko-chan, who accompanied me that day, to bear with me for the procedure, and when I explained the purpose of the Friends Association on the train, she surprisingly said, 'I'll join too!'
I had intended to step away from the 'Rekijo' (history girl) group and delve into this purely on a personal level, so this was a pleasant surprise.

Peko-chan is still a beginner at visiting temples and shrines, but she seems to have developed a positive desire to learn, and for me, being able to go around with an old friend without having to be overly polite will definitely make future visits fun.

Future visits to Todai-ji will surely be a bumpy journey of two Osaka aunties who are moderately shameless and sharp-eyed.

Even though it's Japan, there are no Japanese people

When you head straight east from Kintetsu-Nara Station, the area around Nara Park on the way was suddenly filled with deer and foreign tourists, and sometimes they even blocked our path.
So, I had a bad feeling, and sure enough, the approach to the gate was already full of foreigners.

Even if I wanted to ask someone to take a photo of Peko-chan and me together, there were no Japanese people.
Really, where am I??
Isn't this Japan, and specifically Nara??
I had expected it, but it's an unbelievable sight to see nothing but foreigners as far as the eye can see.

The Nio statues of the Nandaimon Gate

These Nio statues are said to be masterpieces of the Kamakura period, created by Unkei, Kaikei, and others.
The Agyo statue in the image above is by Unkei, and the facing Ungyo statue is by Kaikei, with Unkei's younger brother Jokaku and Unkei's son Tankei also involved.

Actually, this is a technique called 'yosegi-zukuri' (joined-block construction), a groundbreaking method devised by the Buddhist sculptor Jocho in the late Heian period, where parts are made from several pieces of wood and then joined together to finish the work.

I once saw the dismantling and repair of these Nio statues on television a long time ago, and I was amazed at how difficult it must be to reassemble the countless tiny wooden pieces, like a brain teaser or an educational puzzle.
Even when I looked closely this time, I couldn't see any joints at all.

If you make a statue from a single piece of wood, you need a very large log, but with this joined-block construction, you can do it with many small scraps, which is a revolutionary advantage.

These Nio statues are not directly related to the 'Jocho style,' but considering that Unkei and his contemporaries about 150 years later inherited this technique to create these two powerful statues, each about 8.4 meters tall, it can be said that Jocho's contribution was immense.

Stone Lion Statues

It is easy to walk right past them, but a pair of lion statues is enshrined on the north side of the Nandaimon Gate.
I myself had never noticed them before, and this was the first time I had looked at them closely.

They were made by four craftsmen from the Song Dynasty during the Kamakura period. Both are in the 'A-gyo' (open-mouthed) form and are about 160 cm tall, but their heights and stylistic atmospheres are somewhat different, suggesting they might not have originally been a pair.
I tried using the 'Portrait' mode on my smartphone camera, but I just couldn't get it to focus on the subject in the back.
My photos are poor, so it would be easier to check the articles or books by my guardian dog mentor, komajin.

So, the ones at Todai-ji are not komainu, but both are shishi.
Furthermore, the article mentions that the komainu at the entrance to the north approach of Sumiyoshi Taisha in Osaka are modeled after this 'Todai-ji Nandaimon type,' but I have yet to verify this myself.

When you visit Todai-ji, please take a look at the back side after passing through the Nandaimon Gate.

Foreign tourists
are only interested in the Daibutsuden Hall

Including the long lines of people waiting to enter the Daibutsuden Hall and those who gave up on waiting and are taking photos through the gaps in the 'Chumon' gate, almost everyone is a foreigner.
In any case, everyone in my field of vision is a foreigner.

I had planned to visit on a day when there were no events at Todai-ji to enjoy it slowly, but perhaps I happened to coincide with a travel tour?
It is certainly the best season, so I suppose travel agencies wouldn't miss it. I regretted my miscalculation.

I gave up, thinking it couldn't be helped today, but in reality, the massive crowds were at their peak between the Nandaimon Gate and the Daibutsuden Hall. While I saw people walking around the temple grounds near souvenir shops and restaurants, the other halls were quiet and deserted.

What is their purpose??
Are they not interested in Buddhist statues?
Just the 'deer' and the 'overall atmosphere'??
Since each hall requires an admission fee, are they just being stingy by not entering anything other than the Daibutsuden Hall?
Or do they not understand their true value?

The bustling Daibutsuden Hall

Inside, there was another huge line at the ticket counter.
We used the 'prestige' of our membership to cut through the line and enter smoothly, but it was still extremely crowded.

However, even though I have seen it many times, the sheer, imposing size of this Great Buddha Hall is in a league of its own, and I am so overwhelmed by its majesty that I cannot help but stop in my tracks here as well.

The current Great Buddha Hall was restored and rebuilt during the Edo period and measures approximately 57m wide by 50m deep by 48m high, but at the time of its founding, it was even larger,approximately 88m wide by 52m deep by 47m high—the width alone was 30m larger. It must have had a presence that took the breath away from the people of that time.

It suffered two destructions by fire: the 'Jisho Fire' during the Siege of Nara by the Taira clan in 1180, and the 'Eiroku Fire' by the Miyoshi Triumvirate and Hisahide Matsunaga in 1567, but each time it was revived through the efforts of Chogen in the Kamakura period and Kokei in the Edo period.

The surprisingly large Octagonal Lantern

This is another thing that people tend to overlook because they are distracted by the Great Buddha Hall, but there is an elaborately crafted 'Octagonal Lantern' in front of it.

Because it is in front of the Great Buddha Hall, it is hard to grasp its size, but it is actually about 4.6m tall. You have to look up if you want to burn its image into your memory. It is said to have been made in the 4th year of Tenpyo-Shoho (752), the same year as the Great Buddha's eye-opening ceremony, making it the oldest and largest bronze lantern in Japan. Although it is made of bronze, it has been covered in rust over the years, turning into a patina and changing to a refined blue-green color.

What I want to draw attention to are the exquisite openwork panels on the 'fire box,' the eight-sided part where the fire is lit. It is a pity that my photography skills are poor and I cannot convey it well, but the elegant and adorable figures of the 'Sound Bodhisattvas' on four of the sides, each playing a transverse flute, vertical flute, sho, or cymbals, are a must-see.

Of course, there have been thefts, damage, and deterioration, so the current ones were made in the Heisei era, and the previous ones are said to be on display at the Todai-ji Museum.

It's not just the main deity that is large

The main deity of Todai-ji, commonly known as the Great Buddha of Nara, 'Vairocana Buddha,' is a seated statue, yet including the pedestal, it is about 18m tall.

However, that is not all; all the Buddhist statues in the hall are large. The 'Akasagarbha Bodhisattva Seated Statue' and the 'Cintamanicakra Avalokiteshvara Seated Statue,' which are the attendants of the 'Vairocana Buddha,' are also over 7m tall, and the 'Four Heavenly Kings' on all four sides are each over 3m tall, all showing an overwhelming presence that makes you look up at them.

I am particularly struck by the detail of the Four Heavenly Kings' sculptures. The exotic armor is detailed, but above all, the capes and celestial robes fluttering in the wind are realistic and convey a sense of movement.

Note: Photography is only allowed in this Great Buddha Hall; photography is prohibited in all other halls.

The prayers of the 'Four Sages' are eternal

The reason Todai-ji is also called the 'Temple founded by the Four Sages' is that it was established by the following four people:

Emperor Shomu - Commissioned the construction of the Great Buddha Gyoki Bodhisattva - Promoted the construction of the Great Buddha Ryoben Sojo - The first head priest of Todai-ji Bodhisena - A monk from India who served as the master of the Great Buddha's eye-opening ceremony

It is said that without them, Todai-ji would not exist, and Todai-ji still cherishes and worships them today. They built Todai-ji wishing for
the peace of the worldand that wish has been passed down to this very day.

Even so, Gyoki's name appears in every place and every temple, and if all of that was Gyoki's achievement, it seems too superhuman. Maybe he was an alien??

Todai-ji, where their original wishes were imbued.
I would like to confirm the traces of those wishes over the course of this year as well.

Our first visit to Todai-ji continues.

I have been going out so much that my post updates cannot keep up, and although I want to read everyone's articles, I haven't been able to visit them thoroughly.
Please forgive me for being neglectful for a while.

[Citations/References]
- Tourist leaflet "Todai-ji Great Buddha Hall"
- "Let's Go to Old Temples: Todai-ji"
- "The Story of Osaka Komainu" by Kazuhito Shiomi

[Exploring Todai-ji and Its Vicinity]
①Winter at Joruri-ji Temple
②A Preview Visit to Kasuga Taisha Shrine