Complete Conquest of "Todai-ji": Unkei and Kaikei! Ichigatsu-do? Explanation of All Halls [Nara]
It began in 728 when Emperor Shomu held a memorial service for his child, and it eventually became "Todai-ji" after serving as the provincial temple of Yamato. The Buddha Hall is the "world's largest wooden structure," and the Nandaimon Gate is "our country's largest temple gate." It is a temple that houses Buddhist statues created by Unkei and Kaikei in the temple gate and possesses treasures related to the Imperial family. Yes! The Shosoin is also part of Todai-ji.
Some people divide Todai-ji into the Buddha Hall complex around the Great Buddha Hall, the Upper Temple complex including Nigatsu-do and Sangatsu-do, and the Kaidan-in complex around the Kaidan-do. By the way, the Shosoin is sometimes called the North Temple. Note that, like Kofuku-ji, the damage to areas other than the Upper Temple during the Siege of Nanto was severe. Then, with the cooperation of Minamoto no Yoritomo, Chogen worked on the reconstruction, and Kaikei, a genius Buddhist sculptor who was also devoted to Amida faith, came to be highly valued. Where there is a temple associated with Chogen, there is Kaikei!!!
Every year on October 5th, the "Togai-e" ceremony is held at the Togai-mon Gate (a National Treasure), and you can enjoy a festival of viewing National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties, including rare and beautiful Buddhist statues, at the Todai-ji Kanjin-sho!! Come on~ October 5th is for the ancient capital of Nara!! Please see the next separate NOTE for details!!
Also, the oldest Kasuga-zukuri style from the Kamakura period is at Enjo-ji (my NOTE).
Change History
2026/04/18: Photos added (search for 2026/04/18)
2023/10/05 Sangatsu-do, Goko-in, and Todai-ji Museum added together (in-page search for "2023/08/01", "2023/08/05", "2023/08/13", "2023/09/03", "2023/10/05")
2022/06/05 Title changed
2021/08/15 First edition
2021/08/30 Ichigatsu-do updated
▼HP
▼Access
Refer to HP
▼Deities/Principal Images and Attendants
※Refer to "▼Highlights" below.
▼Highlights
▽Todai-ji Museum
I will write this at the end of this NOTE.
■2020 Memo
From 2020, the Kaidan-do was closed for viewing for about 3 years due to seismic retrofitting work, etc. The "Standing Statues of the Four Heavenly Kings (National Treasure)" housed in the Kaidan-do can be viewed at the Todai-ji Museum!!
So, I used a paid holiday on a Wednesday to visit the Todai-ji Museum for the first time in a while. There were 3 visitors! It was almost like having the place to myself!!! There was no one at Todai-ji except for the deer...
▽Todai-ji Nandaimon Gate



First, you must go early in the morning before the school trips and tourists arrive!?
When you look at it from a distance from the front, the sheer size is overwhelming, and when you look up at the inner gate, you can see up to the upper roof without a lower level.
This inevitably means that this gate does not have a second floor, so there is no Crowned Shakyamuni Buddha & Ten Great Disciples, which is a bit disappointing, but the highlight of this gate is surely the Vajrapani statues created by Unkei and Kaikei.
Perhaps it is the world's largest and oldest plastic model, consisting of 3,000 parts made in just 69 days!?





These Vajrapani statues are famous, but their A-Un (open-mouthed and closed-mouthed) positions are the opposite of those at Horyu-ji (my NOTE).
Also, it is interesting that they face inward to keep a watchful eye on the outside of the gate. The closed-mouthed Un-gyo is on the east and the A-gyo is on the west, which is the opposite of the Horyu-ji Middle Gate. What is the message behind this? Is it a self-admonition by an Emperor who realized the Fujiwara clan's intentions?
There is a theory that they face inward because the Emperor, who had the blood of the Fujiwara clan, was expressing his remorse and distress over the tyranny of the Fujiwara clan, and another theory that they were built according to the floor plan of the Todai-ji design document at Daigo-ji Temple in Kyoto (my NOTE).
The 2021 'Nara National Museum Buddhist Statue Hall' houses the 'Standing Vajrapani Statues @ National Treasure,' a representative work of the Kei school created as a joint project by Unkei and Kaikei.
The photo is from when it was exhibited at the Nara National Museum Buddhist Statue Hall in 2021. Photography was allowed.
Now, there is also a collaborative work by the Unkei and Kaikei workshop in Kyoto. It is the 'Ten Great Disciples @ Important Cultural Property' at Daihoon-ji Temple, also known as Senbon Shakado (my NOTE).
There is also an 'Aizu Yaichi Poem Monument' at Toshodai-ji Temple. After passing through the Todai-ji Nandaimon Gate and heading toward the Daibutsuden Hall, there is a stone monument on the left side. It reads: 'With palms open wide, the great Buddha is filled with grace.'
▽ Todai-ji Daibutsuden Hall
It is large, but it feels narrow in width, which makes it look a bit awkward. For now, I will head toward the Kondo (Main Hall), but the highlight is the 'Gilt Bronze Octagonal Lantern @ National Treasure,' and since the relief craftsmanship is from the Tempyo period, it is a spot you should see rather than just walk past!!

The idea that the Great Buddha of Nara, or Rushana Buddha, is the biggest in Japan is a thing of the past; apparently, the Ushiku Amida Buddha in Ibaraki Prefecture became the largest in 1993.
Setting that aside, inside the Todai-ji Daibutsuden Hall, in addition to the principal image of the Rushana Great Buddha, the two attendant Bodhisattvas, Kannon and Kokuzo, and the Four Heavenly Kings were enshrined, but when the Daibutsuden Hall was destroyed by fire during the war, the Great Buddha was severely damaged, and the two Bodhisattvas and the Four Heavenly Kings were lost to the fire.
※ By the way, in Esoteric Buddhism, this Rushana Buddha becomes Dainichi Nyorai.
Regarding the appearance of the various statues in the Daibutsuden Hall during the Kamakura restoration period, the 'Todai-ji Daibutsuden Hall Diagram (Copy)' at Daigo-ji Temple in Kyoto clearly states the names of the Buddhist sculptors in charge, in addition to the bodies of the Four Heavenly Kings and the evil spirits, their colors, the items they hold, and the direction their faces are turned.
If that is correct, it is thought that they might be faithful replicas of the Four Heavenly King statues of the Daibutsuden Hall because they match those at Kaijusen-ji Temple (Kaijusen-ji Temple) (my NOTE) in Kyoto. (It seems they make small versions when creating large Buddhist statues.)
※ It is a hidden Buddha. You can sometimes see it during the special autumn opening in Kizugawa City.
Finally, a few more points.
August 7th is the 'Omimugui' (Body Wiping), a cleaning of the Great Buddha (Rushana Buddha). It is a major cleaning where monks in white robes dust the Great Buddha.
October 15th is when the 'Great Buddha Autumn Festival' is held. During the autumn festival, the Rushana Buddha Zoken Hotsugan Keisan Hoyo (Memorial Service for the Vow to Construct the Rushana Buddha) is performed. This festival includes the memorial service in the morning, the dedication of the Great Buddha Anthem, and a tea offering ceremony by the Omotesenke school. From the afternoon, Noh and Kyogen are performed as a celebratory Noh at the Kagami-ike Bugaku stage.
The back side of Todai-ji!?





▽ Upper Precincts: Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine
Tamukeyama Hachimangu was established as a tutelary shrine for Todai-ji, with a divided spirit from Usa Hachimangu in Oita. It is a large shrine located in the 'Upper Precincts' area of the Todai-ji grounds, where Todai-ji's Nigatsu-do and Hokke-do (Sangatsu-do) are situated, and it has a deep connection with Todai-ji.
It seems to serve as a tutelary shrine at the eastern dead end within the Todai-ji grounds. Usa Hachimangu is the birthplace of the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism and is famous as a god that speaks its mind; it is a shrine revered by various warlords starting with the Minamoto clan (the Minamoto clan is Tsurugaoka Hachimangu (My NOTE)).
When the Great Buddha of Todai-ji was being built, it was invited from Usa Hachimangu in Oita in 749 and built at Nashihara-gu, located south of the Heijo Palace, as a guardian deity for Todai-ji. Tamukeyama Hachimangu is said to be the first branch shrine of Usa Hachimangu and was also called Chinju Hachimangu. The 'Seated Statue of Hachiman in Monk's Attire' (National Treasure), created by Kaikei in 1201, was more divine than seeing it in a museum!! This Buddhist statue is said to have been modeled after the image of 'Hachiman' handed down at Jingo-ji (My NOTE), and this is also a characteristic of Kaikei. In addition, this statue bears the names of noble benefactors including the Emperor, and the inscription includes the name of 'Unkei' as a sculptor who assisted Kaikei.
↓-------2023/08/13
In 749, during the construction of the Great Buddha of Todai-ji, it was invited from Usa Hachimangu in Oita.
It was built at Nashihara-gu, located south of the Heijo Palace, as a guardian deity for Todai-ji.
Tamukeyama Hachimangu is the first branch shrine of Usa Hachimangu and was also called Chinju Hachimangu.
In 743, Emperor Shomu issued an edict for the construction of the Great Buddha, and construction began at Shigaraki-no-miya (Shigaraki-cho, Koka City, Shiga Prefecture).
In 745, when the capital returned to Heijo-kyo, construction of the Great Buddha began at Todai-ji.
In 752, the Great Buddha Eye-Opening Ceremony was held with the Indian monk Bodhisena as the master.
In 758, the Great Buddha Hall was completed.
1180: Burned down during the Siege of Nara by Taira no Shigehira
1188: Rebuilt by Chogen, the official in charge of the Todai-ji reconstruction
1250: Moved to its current location by Hojo Tokiyori
Separated from Todai-ji due to the Shinto-Buddhism separation policy after the Meiji Restoration
↑-------2023/08/13
The main hall once housed the 'Seated Statue of Hachiman in Monk's Form' (National Treasure) created by Kaikei. It is currently housed in the Hachiman-den of the Kanjin-sho, which will be described later. I still cannot forget the shock I felt when I saw it at the 2017 special exhibition, 'Kaikei: The Buddhist Forms That Fascinated the Japanese.' This Buddhist statue (or is it a Shinto statue?) makes you feel as if it is alive and breathing.
Every October 5th: Tamukeyama Hachimangu Tegai-e Festival
The Tamukeyama Hachimangu Tegai-e Festival originated when the Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine was built on the grounds of Todai-ji in 749, and the enshrined deity, invited from Usa Hachimangu in Oita, was brought through the Tegai-mon Gate to be worshipped.
When the Tegai-e (Hachiman Shrine Festival) was held during the Heian period, the Tegai-mon Gate served as an otabisho (resting place for the deity), where the phoenix carriage (horen) and portable shrines (mikoshi) were placed in the center before heading toward Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine.
During the Tegai-e, the 'Seated Statue of Hachiman in Monk's Form' (National Treasure), the sacred object of Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine that was moved to Todai-ji due to the Shinto-Buddhism separation after the Meiji Restoration, is specially opened to the public at the Todai-ji Hachiman-den.
At the Tegai-e, portable shrines and lion heads are placed at the Tegai-mon Gate, Shinto rituals such as the recitation of prayers are performed, and bugaku dance is dedicated.



The main deity is Emperor Ojin, and Hime-Okami, Emperor Chuai, Empress Jingu, and Emperor Nintoku are enshrined as associated deities. The shrine grounds also feature auxiliary shrines such as Wakamiya Shrine, Sumiyoshi Shrine, Kora Shrine, Takeuchi Shrine, and Wakadono Shrine, which are also highlights. By the way, the goshuin (shrine seal) here is written with as much mastery as those of temples.






▽Todai-ji Ichigatsu-do (Updated 2021.08.30)
It's not at Todai-ji!? It's at Kasagi-dera in Kasagi, Kyoto!!
▽Jouin (Upper Precinct): Todai-ji Nigatsu-do & Todai-ji Nigatsu-do Akaiya
The principal images are two Eleven-faced Kannon statues known as the Large Kannon and Small Kannon, both of which are absolute secret Buddhas that no one is permitted to see.
The 'Omizutori' ritual, a traditional event of early spring in Nara, is held here, and you might know it because it is covered in the news? (It's the footage of monks holding torches running around the hall looking up, but is that only in Kansai??)




→ Kojo Shrine
Behind it is Nigatsu-do. The enshrined deity is Toyotama-hime-no-mikoto, and it is a shrine for the practitioners of Nigatsu-do. One theory suggests it is one of the Eight Kojo Shrines of Todai-ji. (Nara City History, Shrines and Temples Edition)
Kojo Shrine
It is one of the three shrines (Kojo, Iimichi, and Oshi) that protect the Shunie ritual. When the Oshi Myojin sent water from Wakasa, two cormorants, one black and one white, broke through the bedrock and flew out, and the sweet spring that gushed out afterward was the Wakasa-i (Wakasa Well), and this Kojo Shrine was built to enshrine the cormorants. In the Heian period, it was worshipped as a Bodhisattva with the vow to 'take the elixir of immortality and give it to people to eat, allowing them to maintain a long life.' It is imagined that it was already enshrined in its current location during the Heian period. This is the only one of the Eight Great Bodhisattvas that still exists today.
→ Omizutori
The 'Akaiya' well, from which water is drawn for the 'Shunie' ritual held every year from March 1st to March 14th, is said to be connected to the Wakasa region of Fukui.
(There is an 'Omizu-okuri' ritual where water is sent during the festival at Jinguji Temple and Wakasahiko/Wakasahime Shrine in Obama City, Fukui Prefecture, but that is a separate matter. )
During Shunie, the 'Jinmeicho' (List of Deities) is read aloud. It lists deities from all over the country, and it is interesting that a temple reads out the names of gods. Perhaps it is because it is related to the Emperor, who is the top of Shinto and its rituals.
There are others besides the 22 Shrines and 16 Shrines, with 3,132 seats (shrines) recorded, and 13,000 deities are read out, with the speed gradually increasing.
I think this is the very essence of Shinbutsu-shugo (syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism), where gods protect Buddhism! Ise Jingu is considered the Inner Shrine (my NOTE), and there are also Tado Taisha (my NOTE) and Atsuta Jingu (my NOTE). On the other hand, Izumo-related shrines are also recorded. What is interesting is that Ise Jingu is not the very first one, but rather Yoshino/Kinpusen-ji (my NOTE).
The 'Past Records' are written regardless of whether they were emperors, samurai, or monks who contributed to the founding of Todai-ji, and they are still being added to today, with the reading taking nearly an hour.
These two have been copied by generations of monks. It started in 752 and has never been postponed once! I think this is a culture that continues to be protected. Here, there is something that has been protected even through plagues and wars!!
→ Nigatsu-do







▽ Upper Precinct: Todai-ji Hokke-do (Sangatsu-do)



It is said to be the hall of Kinsho-ji, the predecessor of Todai-ji, and perhaps the name 'Sangatsu-do' is more famous in general? You can see Tenpyo-era Buddhist statues!! The main deity enshrined is a massive, beautiful Buddha! The Fukukenjaku Kannon (National Treasure), and in addition, the Bonten and Taishakuten statues (National Treasure), the Shukongojin statue (National Treasure), the Four Heavenly Kings statues (National Treasure), and the Nio statues (National Treasure) make it a festival of National Treasures.

Todai-ji suffered immense damage from the fires of the Genpei War and the Sengoku period, but this hall miraculously escaped, making it one of the Nara-period structures, and the Buddhist statues enshrined within are masterpieces from the Nara period. Finally, the Nikko and Gakko Bosatsu, Benzaiten, Kisshouten, Jizo Bosatsu, and Fudo Myoo enshrined in the Todai-ji Museum were also originally enshrined here.
↓-------2023/08/01
That said, according to a certain TV program, the original group of Buddhist statues is as follows, and it turns out that the Four Heavenly Kings of the Kaidan-do were actually enshrined here.
Founded in 733 (according to 'Todai-ji Yoroku'), it is the oldest structure at Todai-ji
It seems it was initially part of Kinsho-ji and was called the 'Kenjaku-do'
It came to be called 'Hokke-do' because of the annual Hokke-e ceremony
In 740, it was the site of the first lecture on the Avatamsaka Sutra in Japan
Even today, cypress wood from 729 and 731 supports the hall
The right side of the Hokke-do (National Treasure), also known as Sangatsu-do, was added during the Kamakura period; there is a point where the color of the roof tiles changes, and everything to the left of that is from the Nara period
The outer sanctuary is from the Kamakura period, and the inner sanctuary is at a lower level
Both the building and the Buddhist statues are entirely from the Nara period
The main deity is the standing statue of Fukukenjaku Kannon (National Treasure), who saves people with the lasso held in the left hand
The crown is decorated with over 1,000 pieces of glass, using blue glass such as soda-lime glass that had to be imported from outside Japan, likely from elsewhere in Asia. Also, it is unique in that it is decorated with jade, or rather, magatama beads
Personally, I like the space between the clasped hands; it is exquisite.
The Standing Statue of Brahma (National Treasure) and the Standing Statue of Indra (National Treasure) are enshrined on the left and right.
At the four corners of the main deity are the Standing Statues of the Four Heavenly Kings (National Treasure).
It is interesting that the Standing Statue of Vajrapani (National Treasure) is enshrined in the front.
In this group of Buddhist statues, the sizes of the main deity and the surrounding statues are a mystery.
The mystery is that the attendant statues are larger than the main deity.
It seems the mystery was solved during the three-year restoration of the statues starting in 2011, and the fact that the pedestals are octagonal was a hint.
They were different from the current statues that surround the Fukukenjaku Kannon.
From these pedestals, it was confirmed that the original attendant statues were the statues traditionally known as Nikko and Gakko Bosatsu, which are now enshrined in the Todai-ji Museum.
There had long been suggestions that their faces were similar, and since the pedestals are octagonal and match the pedestal of the Fukukenjaku Kannon, it turns out the statues traditionally known as Nikko and Gakko Bosatsu were actually Brahma and Indra.
Next, the Four Heavenly Kings are the statues from the Kaidan-do (National Treasure), and these also had octagonal pedestals.
Inside the zushi (shrine) behind the main deity, there is a Shukongojin statue (National Treasure) placed back-to-back with the main deity.
There were nine Buddhist statues in the Hokke-do, including the hidden Buddha.
*The Shukongojin statue (National Treasure) is unveiled on December 16th.
https://readyfor.jp/projects/hozonchoukoku-shukongoujinThis group of statues and the rare decorative treasures in the Hokke-do would have been impossible without authority and power, so it is speculated that they could only have been commissioned by Emperor Shomu and Empress Komyo.
From the pedestals, it is known that the wood was felled in 729, and it is said that they were for the Crown Prince who passed away at the age of 10.
Since monks would walk around these two-tiered octagonal pedestals to offer prayers, it is interpreted that there was a wide space around the pedestals.
Since walking around the Shumi-dan (altar) is still practiced today during the 'Omizutori' at Nigatsu-do, it is said that this was likely practiced here as well.
(This also happens at Chion-ji in Kyoto (my note might not be public yet, so here is my travelogue))Next, as for why they became the current group of statues, it is related to the epidemic and smallpox outbreak, and it seems the original location of the statues has been largely determined.
The answer seems to be the 'Yamato Kokubun-ji' that was located around the current Great Buddha Hall.
The reason is that miniatures of the statues currently surrounding the Hokke-do main deity are carved around the plaque of the Yamato Kokubun-ji, so there is a strong theory that the phantom statues of the Yamato Kokubun-ji are enshrined in the Sangatsu-do.
The Kongo Rikishi statue wearing armor is rare, and since this also matches, it is considered highly likely.
So, there will be a special opening in October 2023.
〇 October 2023 ◆ National Treasure Seated Statue of Monk Roben enshrined on a discussion platform at Hokke-do Hall
Todai-ji Temple in Zoshicho, Nara City (Head Priest Kohei Hashimura) announced on the 31st the memorial services and related events for the "1250th Memorial of the Founder of Todai-ji, Monk Roben." The grand memorial service will be held at the Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall) for three days from October 14th to 16th, starting at 10:00 AM each day.
↑-------2023/08/01

In 2023, there was a "Special Opening of the Hidden Buddha, National Treasure: Hokke-do Shukongojin Standing Statue" at Hokke-do Hall (Sunday, October 1, 2023 – Monday, October 16, 2023; Viewing hours: 8:30 AM to 4:00 PM).


Shukongojin is a deity who holds a vajra and wears armor.
A masterpiece of Nara period clay sculpture and a National Treasure.
The right hand is raised, holding a vajra.
The left hand is clenched into a fist, with veins standing out.
The pedestal is a rock seat (iwaza).
Shukongojin appears in the Heian period "Nihon Ryoiki," and has been enshrined in this same location since then.
Because it was a hidden Buddha for many years, the gold leaf and drapery remain in excellent condition.
It is said that Shukongojin was also the personal devotional image of Roben.
It is a Buddhist statue I found myself gazing at for a long time. It felt like a gathering of Buddha-viewing enthusiasts, with people crowding the narrow passage behind the main image. Because it is enshrined in a high place, a tiered platform was provided, allowing us to view the statue from there.
I wonder if the Shukongojin standing statue by Kaikei at Kongo-in Temple in Kyoto (My NOTE) was modeled after this one. The connection between Wakasa and Todai-ji, and the concentration of Kaikei's works in Wakasa! I don't think it's a coincidence.
And, the "Shukongojin Standing Statue" by Kaikei at Koyasan (My NOTE), the essence of the Kei school, is also not to be missed!! The difference!! He really must be a genius.





By the way, the lineup is different now compared to the past, isn't it!!

No. 10 is the Shukongojin statue. It is said that the Shukongojin statue is a combination of the Kongorikishi statue 'A' and the Kongorikishi statue 'Un'.


▽ Upper Precinct: Todai-ji Sanmai-do (Shigatsu-do)
A small hall located in the area where Nigatsu-do and Sangatsu-do also stand.
Its original name is 'Sanmai-do', and because a Buddhist memorial service called the Hokke Sanmai-e is held every April, it gradually came to be known by the common name 'Shigatsu-do'.
The principal image, the standing statue of Eleven-faced Kannon, was the principal image of 'Momoo-ji Temple', which was located in the mountainous area of Nara City. Following the closure of that temple, it was enshrined at Nigatsu-do and was promoted to the principal image here!?
The original principal image was the Thousand-armed Kannon, which is currently on loan to the Todai-ji Museum. The 'Seated Statue of Fugen Bosatsu' in the hall was also considered the principal image at one time, and there was a period when it was called 'Fugen-do'.
It seems there is a history where the principal image has changed relatively frequently depending on the era.



▽ Iimichi Shrine / Todai-ji Fudo-do
A hall located between Sangatsu-do and Nigatsu-do, which is situated on even higher ground than Nigatsu-do among the halls of Todai-ji. Although it is a newer hall built in the Muromachi period, Goma fire rituals are still performed there today, held on the 10th of every month at 10:00 AM, the 18th at 1:00 PM, and the 28th at 10:00 AM.

You should definitely go further in from Nigatsu-do!!

→ Iimichi Shrine *2023/10/05
First of all, Iimichi Shrine... syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism exists here too!!

As I thought, the spirit was divided from the one in Shiga Prefecture!!
The main shrine is located just below Mt. Iimichi, at an altitude of 664 meters in Kumoi, Koga-gun, Shiga Prefecture, and is also a sacred site for Shugendo, having been invited from Kumano Hongu in the fourth year of Wado (711). During the Nara period, there was Iimichi-ji Temple as a Jinguji (shrine-temple), which existed until the Meiji period.
This shrine, located southeast of Nigatsu-do, had its fence repaired around the sixth year of Koan (1283), confirming its existence from before the mid-Kamakura period. However, it appears that there were changes to its form during the Kanbun reconstruction of Nigatsu-do.

The enshrined deities are as follows:
God of Fire: Kagutsuchi-no-Kami
Goddess of Earth: Haniyama-hime-no-Mikoto
God of Five Grains: Wakumusubi-no-Kami
This is a shrine for the Nigatsu-do ascetic practices, said to have been invited by Priest Jitchu. It is a shrine for Nigatsu-do ascetic practices, and Iimichi Shrine, Onyu Shrine, and Kosei Shrine are all guardian shrines of Nigatsu-do.
Now, let me introduce the main shrine a little.
An ancient shrine located at the summit of Mt. Iimichi, which towers over the northeastern edge of the town. Built in the Nara period, it flourished in the Heian period as the syncretic Iimichi-ji Temple, but it was destroyed by fire during war. The current main hall was rebuilt in the early Edo period (Keian 3, 1650). As a nationally designated Important Cultural Property, it boasts the architectural beauty of the gorgeous Momoyama style and conveys the weight of history. In recent years, restoration work has recreated its original appearance.
Come to think of it, there is an Afro Buddha in Koga too... The evidence is in my next Jalan travelogue and my NOTE.
Koga is amazing... It seems there are still many places to visit there.
→ Fudo-do Hall
This is a hall located on the high ground of Sangatsu-do and Nigatsu-do. Although it is a new hall built in the Muromachi period, Goma fire rituals are still held there today, taking place on the 10th of every month at 10:00 AM, the 18th at 1:00 PM, and the 28th at 10:00 AM.





→ Benzaiten
You can get here by going down from Fudo-do Hall.



▽ Todai-ji Kaizan-do Hall (Roben-do Hall)
This hall, also known as Roben-do, enshrines the National Treasure seated statue of Roben, the founder of Todai-ji. In the center of the inner sanctuary is an octagonal shrine. Although you cannot usually enter, the hidden Buddha is unveiled and can be viewed only on December 16th, the anniversary of Roben's death.

▽ Todai-ji Shunjo-do Hall / Todai-ji Gyoki-do Hall / Todai-ji Nenbutsu-do Hall / Todai-ji Bell Tower
Gyoki-do, Shunjo-do, and Nenbutsu-do are a set.

→ Shunjo-do Hall (Important Cultural Property)
Inside the hall are enshrined the Important Cultural Property seated statue of Amida Nyorai by Kaikei and the Important Cultural Property statue of Aizen Myoo from the late Heian period. On July 5th and December 16th, the hall is opened, allowing visitors to see the National Treasure seated statue of Shunjobo Chogen.

→ Gyoki-do Hall
Located near the bell tower, it enshrines a seated statue of Bodhisattva Gyoki. Gyoki was a person who was extremely popular among the common people for promoting the construction of the Todai-ji Great Buddha Hall and the casting of the Great Buddha. It is said that the seated statue inside the hall is a replica of the one at Chikurin-ji Temple in Ikoma City, where Bodhisattva Gyoki's grave is located.

→Belfry
Gyoki-do, Shunjo-do, and Nenbutsu-do are a set. The bronze bell here is called "Nara Taro," and it is said to be one of the three great bells of Japan, along with Byodo-in in Uji City, Kyoto Prefecture, and Onjo-ji, also known as Mii-dera, in Otsu City, Shiga Prefecture (my NOTE).

→Nenbutsu-do @ Important Cultural Property
Gyoki-do, Shunjo-do, and Nenbutsu-do are a set. It is located near the belfry and houses a seated statue of Jizo Bosatsu. Originally called "Jizo-do," it is known that the seated statue of Jizo Bosatsu @ Important Cultural Property was created in 1237 by the Buddhist sculptor Kosei.Kosei is said to be a Buddhist sculptor of the Kei school, a grandson of Unkei. It is a seated statue made of joined cypress wood, standing over 2 meters tall.

The ink inscription is said to contain prayers for the repose of the souls of 15 people, including Unkei and Koshō.
→Kagitori Shrine (Sub-shrine within the precincts of Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine) *2023/10/05
The enshrined deity is Seoritsuhime-no-Mikoto.
Kagitori Shrine is located along the long approach, near the halls of Todai-ji and the Hakusan Shrine, a sub-shrine within the precincts of Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine. The history of its founding is unknown. "Kagitori" refers to the position of holding the "keys" to warehouses and the like, and it is thought to be a shrine equivalent to the "Innyaku-sha".

→Hakusan Shrine (Sub-shrine within the precincts of Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine) *2023/10/05
Hakusan Shrine is located a short walk down the slope from Kagitori Shrine. The enshrined deity is Shirayamahime-no-Kami.

▽From Todai-ji Shunjo-do, Gyoki-do, Nenbutsu-do, and Belfry to Sashizu-do


→Karakuni Shrine
Located on the right side as you descend the stairs while viewing the Todai-ji Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall). It is a small shrine within the Todai-ji precincts, read as "Karakuni-jinja" and also called "Tengu-sha".
It is said to be a shrine built to appease the Tengu who repeatedly obstructed the construction of Todai-ji. It is believed that Ryoben Sojo converted the Tengu who caused various obstacles during the construction of Todai-ji, made them swear to protect the Buddhist law, and enshrined them.
The name "Karakuni Shrine" is said to have been newly created during the Meiji period, and although it is said to have existed since around the Muromachi period, it seems to have been called "Tengu-sha."

White stones are laid out. Must I go!?

Located to the north of the Great Buddha Hall, up a stone staircase known as the Nekodan, is a small shrine built in the Kasuga-zukuri style facing south. Although it is also called the Tengu-sha (Tengu Shrine), it is revered by the people of the city's Azemame-cho district as Karakuni-jinja (Karakuni Shrine). Based on inscriptions on stone lanterns and other items, it appears that the name changed from Tengu-sha to Karakuni-sha around 1903.
Although the founding of this shrine is unclear, the name Tengu-sha appears in 1443, so it is thought to date back to around the Kamakura period. The Todai-ji Shogaran Ryakuroku (Brief Record of Todai-ji Temples) from the Edo period states that during the Nara period when the temple was founded, the High Priest Roben converted many tengu who were causing various obstacles, made them pledge to protect the Buddhist law, and built this shrine, explicitly stating, 'When performing major Buddhist services, always pray to this shrine for the protection of the true law.'
Even today, when a major memorial service is held, on the evening before the chief priest's ceremony, a 'Hoki no Gi' (Uprising Ceremony) is held where participants gather at the Great Bathhouse, read the deliberation document in front of this shrine, and patrol the assembly.
In the medieval period, the Hoki no Gi was always performed in cases such as the movement of the Hachiman portable shrine for direct appeals, the relocation of shrines, or the apprehension of criminals, and this shrine held significant weight.

Split worship hall!!




There is a frame for omikuji, but where do you draw them...? When I turned my eyes to the main hall, it was on the left!!

On the omikuji stand, there is something that looks like the 'moon and sun.' Could it be Tsukuyomi and Amaterasu??



Oh, the enshrined deity is 'Karakuni no Okina.' It is said to be a deification of the immigrants who were involved in the founding of Todai-ji.



Since Karakuni Shrine is near Fujiidera Temple, I would like to suspect a connection there as well. The Karakuni Shrine in Osaka was called 'Kasuga-sha' and it seems that the chief priest was appointed from Kofuku-ji (My NOTE).
The enshrined deities are "Nigihayahi," the ancestor of the Mononobe clan, "Amenokoyane" of the Kasuga lineage, and "Susanoo" of the Izumo lineage. It is said to have been founded around 500 AD by either the Mononobe clan or the Karakuni clan. It was a shrine founded during the era of Emperor Yuryaku, where the Mononobe clan, who governed the region, enshrined their ancestral deity to create the shrine, and the Karakuni clan served as priests, which seems to be why it came to be called Karakuni Shrine. In the Muromachi period, Kasuga Daimyojin was enshrined here from Kasuga Taisha in Nara, and in 1908, the nearby Nagano Shrine was also merged into it.
My Jalan travelogue is as follows.
It seems that "Karakuni Shrine" was listed in Osaka in the Engishiki, but as of 1801, it appears to have been "Kasuga Shrine." It is said that it only began to be called by its original name as a Shikinaisha, "Karakuni Shrine," in the Meiji era.
Therefore, it seems that "Karakuni Shrine" has a complex historical background and some kind of historical connection in both Osaka and Nara.
→ Koyasu Shrine


▽ Todai-ji Sashizu-do: "Standing Statue of Jizo Bosatsu @ Important Cultural Property" by Kaikei
Located very close to the Todai-ji Kanjin-sho (Hachiman-den/Amida-do/Kokei-do). The Sashizu-do was built as a hall to house the large sashizu (design drawings) for the reconstruction of the Daibutsu-den (Great Buddha Hall). After the restoration of the Daibutsu-den, it was rebuilt as a sacred site associated with Honen Shonin at the request of Jodo sect followers. The Sashizu-do is a hall associated with Honen Shonin; it is not well-known, and while it is unclear if one is allowed to enter, it is open for public viewing.


The Sashizu-do was built as a hall to house the large sashizu (design drawings) for the reconstruction of the Daibutsu-den. After the restoration of the Daibutsu-den, it was rebuilt as a sacred site associated with Honen Shonin at the request of Jodo sect followers. The "Standing Statue of Jizo Bosatsu @ Important Cultural Property" bears the inscription "Kojo Hokkyo Kaikei" (Master Craftsman Hokkyo Kaikei). I took the plunge and asked, "Is photography allowed?" The answer was, "Yes, it is." So, this might be the only place inside Todai-ji where photography is permitted.








THE Amida Triad! They are leaning forward, and the attendant figures are standing up in sequence. How interesting!!!

And the next one is a controversial piece!? Yes, it is a Rushana Buddha just like the one in the Great Buddha Hall, but...

Hmm... The mudra is the Wisdom Fist Mudra of the Diamond Realm Mahavairocana. Why is that? Looking at the face and torso, I thought it might have been remade, but it seems that such statues were made for a time on the continent. This is my first time seeing one...


→Garden





▽Todai-ji Kanjin-sho Hachiman-den, Kanjin-sho Amida-do, Kanjin-sho Kokei-do *Open to the public only on October 15th every year
October 5th is the unveiling of the National Treasure "Seated Statue of Monk-form Hachiman" by Kaikei at the Kanjin-sho Hachiman-den. At the Kanjin-sho Amida-do, the "Seated Statue of Goko Shii Amida Nyorai" is unveiled.
Within the grounds of the Todai-ji Kanjin-sho, there is the "Hachiman-do" which houses the National Treasure Monk-form Hachiman statue in the front, the "Amida-do" on the right which houses the Important Cultural Property Afro Buddha, and the "Kokei-do" on the left which houses the Important Cultural Property seated statue of Kokei Shonin.



On October 5th, the Seated Statue of Hachiman in Monk's Form (National Treasure) and the Seated Statue of Goko Shii Amida Nyorai are on display at the Kanjin-sho, but the Seated Statue of Kokei Shonin (Important Cultural Property) can also be viewed at the Kokei-do. The three halls—Hachiman-den, Amida-do, and Kokei-do—are a set!
→ Kokei-do
The principal image, the Seated Statue of Kokei Shonin (Important Cultural Property), was made in 1706 and is 69.7 cm tall.
Kokei Shonin was the person who dedicated himself to the reconstruction of the Great Buddha Hall, which had been destroyed by fire during the wars of the Miyoshi and Matsunaga clans in 1567, and he is enshrined within a zushi (shrine). A Jizo Bosatsu and Fudo Myoo are also enshrined inside the hall.





Cho-gen dedicated himself to the restoration of Todai-ji from the age of 61 to 86, but by 1567, nothing remained except the Hokke-do (Sangatsu-do), Nigatsu-do, and Nandaimon Gate...
It seems the Great Buddha was left exposed to the elements...
Around 1650, Kokei stood up to the task
In 1684, he directly petitioned the Shogunate for the reconstruction of the Great Buddha Hall and received permission, but there were no subsidies
It seems he passed away wishing for the restoration of the Great Buddha, and became a Buddha statue himself
Is one eye red because of his sorrow for the Great Buddha, or are they tears shed halfway through his journey?
→ Amida-do

Also known as the Todai-ji Amida-do, the principal image is the Seated Statue of Goko Shii Amida Nyorai (Important Cultural Property), a rare example. It is 106 cm tall and has a rounded silhouette. There is a photo of the Buddha statue on the official website.
It is depicted with long hair because it sat in meditation for a very, very long time to attain enlightenment. The principal image of the Goko-in, a branch temple north of Todai-ji, is of the same style and form, but the Goko-in statue has its hands clasped in front of its abdomen, hidden under its robes.
On the other hand, the difference is that the Kanjin-sho statue is pressing its palms together in prayer. Also, in terms of overall impression, the Goko-in statue feels more exotic, while the Kanjin-sho statue has a sense of stability.
Finally, the attendant Seishi and Kannon Bosatsu statues and the Four Heavenly Kings statues are also magnificent. It is a truly wonderful hall. Am I the only one who felt a connection between the Four Heavenly Kings and Kaijusen-ji (my NOTE)?



→ Hachiman-den: "Seated Statue of Monk-form Hachiman" by Kaikei @ National Treasure *Secret Buddha opening on October 5th
The "Seated Statue of Monk-form Hachiman" by Kaikei @ National Treasure is displayed every year on October 5th.
It was originally the object of worship at Todai-ji's guardian shrine, Hachiman-gu (the current Tamukeyama Hachiman Shrine), but was moved to Todai-ji during the separation of Shinto and Buddhism and the anti-Buddhist movement in the early Meiji period.





There is a long ink inscription on it, which includes the names of Emperor Go-Toba, the two empresses of Shichijo and Hachijo, Prince Shukaku of Ninna-ji, the late Retired Emperor Go-Shirakawa, Todai-ji betto Benkyo, the Buddhist sculptors who formed a bond centered on Kaikei who was engaged in the statue's creation, the metalworker Gyoki, the lacquerer, and Choken, the uncle of Jokei of Kasagi-dera.
The principal image of Tamukeyama Hachiman-gu
Enshrined in its current location due to the Meiji-era separation of Shinto and Buddhism order
In 1180, the main hall was burned down during the Siege of Nara, but Chogen restored it
Speaking of Chogen, he often entrusted Buddhist statues to the sculptor Kaikei, so it feels like that is the case here too


▽ Todai-ji Kaidan-do Hall
The most famous Four Heavenly Kings in Japan are enshrined ahead.
The hall is dark and flashlights are prohibited, so you have no choice but to strain your eyes to see them, but you will gradually get used to this darkness, so please take your time to look!! It is strange that there are so few people here despite having such excellent Buddhist statues...

■ Under construction since 2020!
Closed to the public for about 3 years from 2020 for seismic retrofitting and other work. The "Standing Statues of the Four Heavenly Kings @ National Treasure" enshrined in the Kaidan-do Hall can be viewed at the Todai-ji Museum. This is a chance to see Japan's representative Four Heavenly Kings up close in a bright place!


↓-------2023/08/01
■ Reopening from October 2023
Todai-ji in Nara City announced that it will resume public viewing of the "Kaidan-do Hall" in October, which had been suspended for over three years due to seismic retrofitting and other construction work.
↑-------2023/08/01
↓-----2023/10/05
↑-----2023/10/05
▽Todai-ji Senju-do Hall ★Usually closed to the public
Todai-ji Senju-do Hall is a temple building located next to the Kaidan-do Hall that is usually closed to the public.
In 2020, it was opened for the first time in seven years since April 2013, in conjunction with the renovation work of the Kaidan-do Hall.
----↓2023/08/05
And, the special opening ends in 2023. (´;ω;`)ウゥゥ
----↑2023/08/05

The Senju-do Hall is located on the west side of the Kaidan-do Hall, and according to the temple, it was built by the Kamakura period scholar-monk Ensho. It was destroyed by fire during the battles between the Miyoshi and Matsunaga clans in the Sengoku period, but was rebuilt in the early Edo period.



In the center of the Senju-do Hall, there is a zushi (shrine) with beautifully preserved colors, inside which the principal image, the 'Standing Statue of Senju Kannon (Important Cultural Property)' and the 'Standing Statues of the Four Heavenly Kings (Important Cultural Property)' are enshrined. On the north side, the 'Seated Statue of Ganjin Wajo (Important Cultural Property)' made in the Edo period is enshrined, and on the south side, the 'Seated Statue of Aizen Myoo (Important Cultural Property)', which has beauty and power comparable to those at Saidai-ji Temple, is enshrined.
The Standing Statue of Senju Kannon (Important Cultural Property) was housed in the zushi along with the Standing Statues of the Four Heavenly Kings (Important Cultural Property). The Seated Statue of Ganjin Wajo (Important Cultural Property), who conferred the precepts at Todai-ji, is also enshrined there. 8:30–16:00, 600 yen/person.
▽Todai-ji: Tengai-mon Gate (National Treasure)
In 1180, it escaped the burning of Nanto by Taira no Shigehira
In 1567, it also escaped destruction during the battle between the Matsunaga and Miyoshi clans
The Tengai-mon Gate is also called the Kagekiyo Gate, based on the legend that Taira no Kagekiyo, also known as 'Aku Shichibyo-e,' hid there to assassinate Minamoto no Yoritomo
Since the Tengai-mon Gate was located northwest of the Daibutsu-den (Great Buddha Hall), it was considered an auspicious location, and it is said that it came to be called Tengai-mon (Gate of Turning Away Harm) because it turns away harm
An eight-legged gate located in the northwest of the temple grounds, west of the Shosoin. It is a National Treasure that survived two major fires. During the Tengai-e ceremony on October 5th, the 'Seated Statue of Hachiman in Monk's Form (National Treasure & created by Kaikei)' and the 'Seated Statue of Goko Shiyui Amida Nyorai (Important Cultural Property)', famous as the 'Afro Buddha', are exhibited at the 'Hachiman-den' and 'Amida-do' of the Todai-ji 'Kanjin-sho'.
That's right! Todai-ji is a treasure trove of 'Afro Buddhas'. The Afro Buddhas lined up at the Todai-ji exhibition at Abeno Harukas were truly impressive.











→Tengai-e
During the "Tengai-e" ceremony, the "Priest-form Hachiman Statue (National Treasure)," the deity of Tamukeyama Hachimangu Shrine which was moved to Todai-ji due to the separation of Shinto and Buddhism (Haibutsu Kishaku) in the Meiji era, is specially opened to the public at the Hachiman-den Hall of Todai-ji.



















▽ Goko-in Temple *Afro Buddha
Founded by Shunjobo Chogen
Houses the 'Seated Statue of Goko Shii Amida Nyorai (Important Cultural Property)', said to have been brought from Song Dynasty China by Chogen, as its principal image
Main hall rebuilt in 1624
The main hall follows an old style where the inner and outer sanctuaries are separated by Amida-style latticework, typical of an Amida hall
I recognize that many structures in this style are National Treasures
Mountain gate built in 1645


It will be on display in the summer!! The "Afro Buddha," also known as the "Seated Statue of Goko Shii Amida Nyorai (Important Cultural Property)." It is said that after thinking continuously about how to make people happy, its hair grew out and became an afro...




When several Afro Buddha statues were gathered at the Abeno Harukas Art Museum, everyone was captivated, but few people come... You can see them outside of public viewing periods by making a reservation in advance.


At the temple, the charming afro was hard to see because of the zushi (shrine). There were many people who seemed to be parishioners taking care of things, but I wondered... do you really need that many helpers?

A "kalpa" (ko) represents an extremely long period of time, and it is said that the Buddha's hair became an afro (rahatsu) from thinking too much about how to make people happy.

By the way, there is a stone Buddha called the "Looking-Back Jizo" (also known as the Asahi Jizo). Speaking of "looking-back" figures, there is the famous "Looking-Back Amida" at Eikando Temple in Kyoto, known for the phrase "Eikan, you are slow." It seems this temple has a strong connection to that one.



▼ Todai-ji Museum Record
→2023/08/05
Around 2018, I believe? The Kaidan-do began renovations, so the Four Heavenly Kings (National Treasures) were moved to the Todai-ji Museum. I viewed them up close at that time, but since they were scheduled to return in August, I went to see them one last time!




For a limited period of several years, the attendant deities and the Four Heavenly Kings that protect the principal image of Todai-ji's Nigatsu-do were having a reunion, facing each other at the Todai-ji Museum. I hope they will be reunited at the Sangatsu-do someday.

Even in the museum's descriptions, it didn't explicitly state that the Nikko and Gakko Bosatsu and the Four Heavenly Kings definitely belonged to the Sangatsu-do, but I remember the explanation being quite assertive about it.

▼Travelogue
▼Places to visit together
Nara National Museum, Kofuku-ji and Kasuga Taisha, Himuro Shrine, etc.
▼Buddhist Statue Exhibitions
▽2012: Abeno Harukas "Todai-ji Exhibition"
▽2017: Nara National Museum "Kaikei Exhibition"
Todai-ji's "Seated Statue of Hachiman in Monk's Form (National Treasure)" is a Buddhist statue—or is it a Shinto statue?—by Kaikei that is exhibited once a year, and it feels as if it is breathing and alive.
Shunjo-do Hall houses many items associated with Kaikei, such as the "Standing Statue of Amitabha Tathagata (Important Cultural Property)."
Additionally, Todai-ji houses a "Holy Kannon (Important Cultural Property)," which is rare for Kaikei. There are also documents at Todai-ji noting that Kaikei had connections with "Tasshin-ji" in Toyooka City, Hyogo Prefecture, which is famous for its pot-bellied Buddha statues.
▼Opening of Hidden Buddhas
▼Study Set (Updated YYYYMMDD)
Let's go to Todai-ji in Nara, famous for its Great Buddha! A complete guide to its history and highlights
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