[Udon Gourmet Travelogue] #50 Miyake Udon (Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City) [Famous Restaurant]

"The taste of Hakata, the noren of a long-established shop tells the story of Showa-era deliciousness"

❖ Location of Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City

This is the land of Chikuzen Province in Kyushu, known as Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City. It is a vital hub where people and goods intersect, a crossroads of the world, and truly what one might call a modern-day post town.

First and foremost, I must mention Fukuoka Airport, which welcomes people from the sky. It is said that one can reach it from the city center in less than ten minutes, not by horse, but by subway. Thus, it is a gateway to the skies where many travelers pass through each day.

Also, when speaking of the pride of Hakata, there is nothing quite like Hakata Dolls. They are the pinnacle of craftsmanship continuing from the Edo period, with precise molding and elegant coloring—truly eye-catching works of art. One cannot speak of Hakata without seeing these at least once.

By the seaside stands the famous large hall known as Marine Messe Fukuoka. Divas and performers gather here, and performances and events that excite the world are held daily. It is like a modern-day theater, a place where the bustle never ends.

Furthermore, Joten-ji Temple, which should be called the soul of Hakata, stands quietly. In the Kamakura period, the monk Shoichi Kokushi returned from the Song dynasty and founded this place, introducing the methods of making udon, soba, and manju to the world. It is said that these popular tastes, which continue to this day, originated here. A monument stands in the temple grounds as proof, watching over the passage of time along with the bamboo swaying in the wind.

This land of Hakata is a truly elegant place where the old and the new intersect. Traveler, why not visit this land and immerse yourself in the streets where history and human kindness breathe?

❖ Store Exterior

❖ Udon Illustration

❖ Record of the Udon Feast

Long-held Wish Fulfilled ~To the Udon Battleground~

I had long heard of the renowned udon shop 'Miyake.' However, neither luck nor timing were on my side, and I had been forced to pass it by many times.

Determined to go today, I set out. However, this place has no parking lot, so I left my horse (car) a little distance away and walked along the small street known as Gokushomachi-dori. Gazing at the atmospheric townscape while preparing my appetite was, in itself, a pleasure.

Entering the Battleground ~The Luster of Chairs, the Scent of History~

The time was already past two o'clock in the afternoon, and the waves of people had settled down. When I passed through the noren curtain, there was only one other customer. A young lady was quietly moving her chopsticks at the counter.

Looking around, the wooden chairs were aged and shining, as if they were lacquered. A menu was posted on the wall, and it turns out the shop was founded in Showa 29 (1954 AD). Indeed, a long-established shop that has survived many battles has a different kind of dignity.

The Maruten Stage ~Udon is Delicious Without Words~

For this battle, I chose the Maruten Udon. The menu lists only udon and soba. Everything else is just adding toppings to one's own preference. It is truly simple, akin to the way of the samurai.

Shortly after ordering, the udon was brought out with steam rising from it. This is the spirit of Hakata—the consideration not to keep one waiting. How grateful I am.

Thick white noodles with a single, plumply fried, classic round tempura. On top of that, chopped green onions were sprinkled lightly; oh, what a modest and beautiful formation. Is this what 'frugal and sturdy' refers to in a bowl?

Udon Flash ~Soothing the Heart with Dashi~

I pick up my chopsticks and take the first slurp.

Hmm... the noodles are chewy, and the broth has a gentle umami.
As those thick noodles entwine with the broth and slide down my throat, warmth spreads to the very core of my body.
This broth, though light in flavor, is profound; it is truly the craft of a long-established shop indeed.

The sweetness of the maruten (fish cake) melts into the broth, and the scent of green onions occasionally brushes past my nose.
Everything harmonizes so gently that I feel as though even my heart is softening.

Before I knew it, the bowl was empty. The young lady had already left, and it was just the master and me in the shop.

"That was delicious," I said with a bow, and passed through the noren curtain.
The afternoon sun felt strangely warm.

The Way of Udon begins here.

"Miyake Udon"—this single bowl is a masterpiece that serves as the origin of Hakata Udon.
It does not rely on gimmicks, yet it is deep; it is light, yet one never tires of it. This is truly the meal of a true warrior.

The journey has only just begun.
Where shall I head for the next udon? With my stomach and heart prepared, I intend to challenge yet another bowl.

❖ Shop Review Log

❖ Detailed Illustrations

❖ Unique masterpieces found only here, items delivered from the countryside (Advertisement)

❖ Past Udon Picture Scrolls

This is a record of a Udon samurai seeking delicious flavors, walking like the wind on a culinary pilgrimage.

❖ Takeshi Suwa's Complete Udon Gourmet Travelogue Collection

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