Oka Castle, the 'Kusunoki Masashige of the Sengoku Period' Protected by an 18-Year-Old - The Road to Castle Mania No. 173

Hello!

When history and food connect, travel becomes even more interesting.
I want to share the joy of castle strolling!
I'm Sarashina Sobako, a travel writer in my late 40s.

In the last two installments, I introduced two castles belonging to Otomo Sorin in a row.

This time, I'll tell you the story of the only castle that 'did not fall' while the Otomo clan was being cornered by the fierce attacks of the Shimazu clan.

Oka Castle.
It is famous as the setting for Rentaro Taki's 'Kojo no Tsuki' (Moon over the Ruined Castle), but behind the beauty of its ruins lies a passionate drama where an 18-year-old lord repelled the massive Shimazu army three times🏯

Well then, let's learn with a Castle Certification perspective + Sarashina Sobako's travel perspective!

Basic Information: Oka Castle

• Castle Name: Oka Castle

• Classification: Japan's Top 100 Castles

• Location: Taketa, Oita Prefecture

• Builder: Ogata Koreyoshi

• Year Built: Around 1185 (Bunji Era)

• Castle Structure: Teikaku-style mountain castle

• Keep: None (removed due to the Abolition of Castles Ordinance)

• Main Castle Lords: Ogata clan, Shiga clan, Nakagawa clan

• Other Names: Gagyu Castle
  → Because the terrain where the castle stands resembles a 'cow lying down and resting'

• Access: About a 15-minute walk from Bungo-Taketa Station on the JR Hohi Main Line

• Time to reach the Main Enclosure: About 20-30 minutes on foot from the Otemon Gate ruins to the Main Enclosure (1-2 hours for a full walk)

👉 Point

• A castle with 800 years of history, said to have been built by Ogata Koreyoshi to welcome Minamoto no Yoshitsune

• The 18-year-old lord, Shiga Chikatsugu,repelled three consecutive attacks by the Shimazu army, earning the name 'impregnable'

• The current stone walls are the work of the Nakagawa clan

• Rentaro Taki, who spent his boyhood in Taketa, composed 'Kojo no Tsuki' (Moon over the Ruined Castle) inspired by these ruins

The History of Oka Castle

While there are various theories regarding the origins of Oka Castle, it is said to have been built in 1185 by Ogata Koreyoshi to welcome Minamoto no Yoshitsune.
Later, during the Northern and Southern Courts period, the Shiga clan expanded the castle and continued to protect it as senior retainers of the Otomo clan.

◆ What was the Battle of Mimigawa?

One cannot talk about the history of Oka Castle without mentioning the Battle of Mimigawa (1578).

This was the battle where Otomo Sorin led a massive army of about 40,000 to attack the Shimazu clan, who were expanding their power in Hyuga Province (modern-day Miyazaki Prefecture).
However, the Otomo army suffered a crushing defeat due to the Shimazu army's clever tactics.
Many of the Otomo clan's senior retainers and local warriors were killed, and the Otomo clan, which had ruled over six provinces in Northern Kyushu, began its rapid decline after this single battle.

◆ 18-year-old Shiga Chikatsugu repels the Shimazu three times

Eight years after the Battle of Mimigawa, in 1586.
The momentum-filled Shimazu army continued their rapid advance toward Bungo Funai, and the various castles of the Otomo side fell one after another.

Among them, only Oka Castle did not fall.

The one who protected the castle was the lord, then only 18 years old, Shiga Chikatsugu. Making the most of the natural terrain—a 325-meter-high cliff sandwiched between the Inaba and Shirataki rivers—he repelled three consecutive attacks by the massive army led by Shimazu Yoshihiro.

His fighting spirit was such that it even led Shimazu Yoshihiro to call him 'the Kusunoki Masashige of our time.'✨

For this achievement, Shiga Chikatsugu received a letter of commendation from Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

However, after Otomo Yoshimune was stripped of his rank due to his failure during the Japanese invasions of Korea, Shiga Chikatsugu also had to leave Oka Castle.

◆ Nakagawa Hidenari's major renovations and 'Kojo no Tsuki'

In 1594, Nakagawa Hidenari was transferred from Miki in Harima Province and became the lord of Oka Castle.
Upon taking office, he carried out major renovations, transforming the 'earthen castle' of the Shiga era into a fully stone-walled structure, completing the magnificent stone walls we see today.

Thereafter, it functioned as the political center of the Oka Domain for 13 generations of the Nakagawa clan, spanning about 280 years.

Following the Meiji-era Abolition of Castles Ordinance, all buildings were demolished, leaving only the stone walls.
It is a very famous story that Rentaro Taki, who spent his boyhood in Taketa, was moved by these ruins and composed 'Kojo no Tsuki'.

Highlights (for certification exams)

● Precipitous Cliffs and Impressive High Stone Walls

The reason Oka Castle is called 'impregnable' lies in its location on a 325-meter-high precipitous cliff sandwiched between the Inaba and Shirataki Rivers.

In 1586, at the end of the Sengoku period, a large army of the Shimazu clan attacked, but they were unable to take the steep, fortified Oka Castle and retreated.
At that time, Oka Castle did not have the stone walls seen today; it was a mountain castle built with earth, such as earthen ramparts and dry moats.

Later, Nakagawa Hidenari carried out major renovations, transforming it from an 'earthen castle' to a 'stone castle.'
The stone used for the walls was pyroclastic flow material that had flowed into the river after the eruption of Mount Aso and cooled into stone.
It was easy to process and apparently well-suited for building stone walls.

The high stone walls leading from the north side of the Sannomaru to the Ninomaru are breathtaking, showcasing a blend of beauty and grandeur.

● Kamaboko Stones on the Ote-michi Path

As you walk along the Ote-michi path, you will notice strange, semi-cylindrical stones shaped like kamaboko (fish cakes) lined up on top of the stone walls.

There are no detailed documents or established theories about how they were made or the purpose of their shape, so they remain a mystery.
There are various theories, such as them being decorative stones with Namban-style patterns, supports for wooden fences, or defensive features.

Was it the cultural influence of the Otomo clan, who flourished through Namban trade, or perhaps the aesthetic sense of the Nakagawa clan—
The fact that it remains a mystery only fuels the imagination more😊

● Spectacular Views from the Honmaru and Nishinomaru

Although no buildings remain at Oka Castle, the views from the Honmaru and Nishinomaru are exceptional.

On the site of the Honmaru stands the bronze statue of Rentaro Taki and the monument to his song 'Kojo no Tsuki' (Moon over the Ruined Castle), while from the site of the Sannomaru Palace you can see Mount Aso, and from the Ninomaru you can see the Kuju Mountains in their entirety.
Many visitors are surprised by how close Mount Aso appears even from the Nishinomaru's Chikado Gate.

On days when there is a sea of clouds, it becomes a fantastical scene just like a 'castle in the sky.'
Oka Castle, which shows different faces throughout the seasons with cherry blossoms in spring and autumn leaves in fall, has also been selected as one of the 100 Best Cherry Blossom Spots in Japan🌸

Castle Town Gourmet (*Not on the exam!)

And so! Everyone has been waiting for this!
It's time for the fun castle town gourmet information!

We will introduce the gourmet food of Taketa City, which is blessed with the spring water of Mount Aso and rich mountain bounty.

■ Head Cuisine (Atama-ryori)

Oita's 'Head Cuisine' is a traditional local dish that has been passed down in the Taketa region, far from the sea, since the Edo period.

It uses not only the meat of large white-fleshed fish like longtooth grouper or red seabream, but also parts usually discarded such as the gills, jaw meat, skin, and internal organs, all without waste. It is parboiled, served on a large platter, and eaten with kabosu citrus vinegar.

It is served at various kappo restaurants and local cuisine establishments within Taketa City.

■ Harafuto Mochi

A famous confection of Taketa City, it consists of sweet bean paste wrapped in soft, mochi-like gyuhi.
It is a staple souvenir of the castle town, inspired by the song 'Kojo no Tsuki' (Moon over the Ruined Castle).

Surprisingly, when the shop was on the verge of closing due to a lack of successors, the local construction company 'Takayama-gumi' stepped in to inherit the techniques!!

Hearing stories like this makes me think, 'I definitely have to buy some when I visit!'

■ Tofu dishes made with famous spring water

Taketa City is a land of springs, selected as one of the 100 best waters in Japan.
The tofu, made using the underflow water of Mt. Aso, is smooth and rich in soybean flavor, carefully prepared at local eateries.

There are many shops where you can enjoy tofu made with famous water, such as their specialty oboro tofu and tofu steak.

Let's enjoy the blessings of the pure water nurtured by the lava plateau where Oka Castle was built!

Sarashina Sobako's Summary of Thoughts

18-year-old Shiga Chikatsugu repelled the massive Shimazu army three times.

I think this is truly amazing.

While the various castles of the Otomo clan were falling one after another, Shiga Chikatsugu was the only one who held his ground.
However, despite his achievements earning him a letter of commendation from Hideyoshi, he ended up having to leave the castle due to the blunders of his lord, Otomo Yoshimune.

'Great commanders who were not blessed with good lords' often appear in history.
Shiga Chikatsugu might be one of them.

When I stand on the cliffs of Oka Castle, I want to reflect on the lonely battle of Shiga Chikatsugu.

From next time, we will enter the 'Shimazu Clan's Main and Branch Castles' series.

First up is Kagoshima Castle.
It is the main castle of the Shimazu clan, which possesses a unique castle-building philosophy that does not include a keep.

The base of the Satsuma Domain, which produced Saigo Takamori and Okubo Toshimichi✨
I'm excited to see what kind of drama awaits!!

If you would like to enjoy this journey of castles and gourmet food with me, I would be happy if you could support me with a 'Like' and a follow☺️

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