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[Photo Set] Making a Sylvanian Families Patisserie ① [Base & Furniture Edition]

2025年2月3日 11:04

Hello!
This time, I've made a patisserie for Sylvanian Families, so I'd like to write about that.

Just like the rental video shop I made last time, this is an assembly-style photo set using amifa's dollhouse base.

◾️Display Case

The display case is the face of a patisserie!
So, first, I'll make the display case.

First, I'll make the base part out of cardboard.

I'll stick colored paper onto the cardboard with double-sided tape

The colored paper is something I printed
in my favorite colors on plain paper

I'll assemble the cardboard pieces covered in colored paper

By the way, for the small parts (like grooves), it's easier to use masking tape of a similar color instead of colored paper.

Even if the colors are slightly different, it doesn't really bother me that much

I'll make something like a thin box like this.

For the gold parts, I've applied decorative "My Wrap" tape.

The glass case part on top of the base was made mainly using PET sheets and cardboard.

I've applied a stainless steel-look sheet to the silver parts

On the back, I added sliding doors so it can be opened and closed.
(I will explain how to make the grooves for the sliding doors later)

The sliding doors are also made of PET sheets
with stainless steel-look sheets applied to them

It took a bit of time, including redoing some parts, but
I was able to make a display case I'm satisfied with.

◾️ Shelf 1

I will make a shelf to place behind the showcase.
This is also made of cardboard and finished by applying colored paper.

Like the showcase, it has sliding doors, so I will briefly explain how to make the grooves for the sliding doors.

・How to make the sliding door grooves

Prepare thin plastic sheets and plastic rods (1mm square rods).

First, cut the plastic sheet to a width of about 6mm.

Glue the square rod onto the cut plastic sheet.

Glue it straight to match the cut board.

For gluing plastic to plastic, I recommend this adhesive.

With the plastic sheet and plastic rod stacked, you can glue them by simply tracing with the brush.

With the plastic sheet and plastic rod stacked,
you can glue them by tracing with the brush.

Once glued,
cut off the excess plastic rod.

Next, glue another plastic rod. At that time, since I want to glue it with a 1mm gap, I place another square plastic rod in between to glue it.

This is the state where the third rod from the top is being glued (the second rod is just placed there).

When you remove the plastic rod placed in between, it looks like this.

Glue another one at the same interval in the same way.

1mm square rod → 1mm width → 1mm square rod → 1mm width → 1mm square rod
It goes like this.
※Please cut off any excess plastic sheet.

I will make another one just like this.

I need two because I will use them for the top and bottom.

Paint it in your favorite color.

If you fix it to craft tape with double-sided tape before painting, it won't move while you paint, making it easier to work with.

With this, the groove section is complete!

Sliding doors open smoothly if the board is thinner than the width of the groove. You can also widen the groove spacing to your preference, and since thin wooden sticks are sold, I think it's also a good idea to make them using wood.

◾️Base (Walls)

Before making other furniture, I will start by making the base walls.

First, mark the areas you want to cut out on the amifa dollhouse base, and cut them out with a craft knife.

This is what it looks like after cutting it out.

For the back wall, I cut out a 'window frame for interacting with the kitchen' and an 'entrance frame to the kitchen.' For the left wall, I cut out a 'window frame' because I will be attaching a window there.

Also, this time I made the walls versatile so that shooting from different angles is possible. By changing the orientation of the furniture, I will make it so the kitchen-side wall can be used as the entrance-side wall.

By changing the orientation of the furniture, I will make it so the same wall can also be used as the entrance side.

After cutting it out, I applied a steel sheet to the board.

*The photos are out of order and there is a hole above the window frame, but I will explain this hole later.

By applying a steel sheet, it becomes a wall that magnets can stick to.

Once the board is complete, cut out the wallpaper in the same way. *The wallpaper is my favorite color printed on paper craft paper.

By the way, for fixing the wallpaper and board, I am using the cord hooks that I also featured in the previous rental video shop production.

◾️How to make the inset frame

Since there are three holes in the wall, I will make
insertable windows and doors that can be installed there.

I will make an insertable frame like this
(I am making it out of 0.5mm thick cardboard)

This is what it looks like from the side

It can be snapped into the holes in the wall.

Once the frame is made, I will create the design I want to install inside.

For example, since the left wall will be a window,
I made something like this out of cardboard

This is what it looks like when attached to the frame from earlier.
※I will finish it later by applying colored paper, etc.

In the same way, I will also make frames to insert into the other holes.

◾️Insertable frame (door frame)

As explained earlier, I want the back wall to be usable as both the "kitchen-side wall" and the "entrance-side wall," so I will make two frames and give them different designs.

I'll post the finished photos first, but the left is the frame used as the "entrance-side wall," and the right is the frame used as the "kitchen-side wall."

I attached the shop's entrance door to the frame used as the "entrance-side wall."

The frame used as the "kitchen-side wall" is kept simple without a door, as it is used as an entrance to the kitchen.

For the frames themselves, I have applied colored paper and masking tape to the cardboard bases.

For the doors, I made two of the same design out of cardboard and glued them together with a transparent plastic sheet sandwiched in between.

I am pasting paper printed with a wood grain pattern onto cardboard.
*I wanted it to look like boards joined together, so
I used a stylus pen to add grooves.

Sandwich a clear plastic sheet and glue it in place.

- How to make hinges

The door hinges are made from black construction paper and a plastic rod (1mm round rod).

First, glue the construction paper in a shape that allows the plastic rod to pass through.

*The plastic rod is only inserted as a guide,
and it is not glued at this stage.

This is what it looks like when you remove the plastic rod.

Make a total of 4 of the same thing.

Make 4 of these
(referred to as "construction paper hinges" hereafter)

Next, cut them like this.

Cut the part where the plastic rod is inserted in half.

Glue 2 of them to the door.

Cut the plastic rod to an appropriate length and paint it.

Once the paint is dry, insert it into the construction paper hinges from earlier and glue it.

Glue the plastic rod with glue or similar.

Insert the remaining construction paper hinges and check if they move without any issues.
*Do not glue these

Once you have confirmed that they move without any issues, glue the remaining construction paper hinges to the frame side.

Insert the plastic rod on the door side into the construction paper hinge on the frame side to complete it.

Since the plastic rod is not glued to the frame side, the door can open.

Because it is made of construction paper, it is not very durable, but it is sufficient for photography purposes.

The opening and closing door is complete!

・How to make a door knob

Here is how to make the door knob for the door.
Prepare thin plastic board, beads, a plastic rod (2mm round rod), and a hotfix.

※Prepare a plastic rod that is thin enough to fit into the bead hole.

First, cut the plastic rod to an appropriate length.

It is best if it sticks out a little when you try inserting it.

Next, cut the plastic board into a circle.

Glue the plastic rod from earlier onto the circular plastic board.

Insert it into the bead and glue it.

Glue the hotfix upside down into the hole on top of the bead.

Glue it with the concave side facing up.

Once glued, paint it in your favorite color and it is complete.

This is only for one side, but if you make it so it goes through the door,
you can attach a door knob to both sides.

◾️Inset frame (window frame)

I will also make two window frames to be installed next to the door.

I will post the finished photos first; the top one is the frame used as the "kitchen-side wall," and the bottom one is the frame used as the "entrance-side wall."

For the kitchen side, I made a window frame with a sliding door to allow interaction with the kitchen.

For the entrance side, I made a window frame with curtains.

Just like the door frame, both window frames themselves are made of cardboard covered with colored paper and masking tape.

The kitchen-side window has a sliding door, and this is made the same way as the sliding door for Shelf 1 explained earlier.

・How to make a tension rod

The tension rod with curtains is made by taking a 1mm round rod,

applying black masking tape to it,

and wrapping thin strips of masking tape around the left and right ends to add thickness, and it's done.

Wrap thin masking tape around the ends of the rod to
add thickness

Glue lace ribbon purchased from a 100-yen shop onto the tension rod you made.

Glue a transparent sheet like a PET sheet to the window frame, then glue on the tension rod with curtains, and it's finished.

I also decorated the window that attaches to the left wall, which appeared at the beginning.

Glue on plain paper printed with a wood grain pattern,

and once assembled, the window is complete!

By using different designs for the door and window in the inset frames, it is now possible to take photos from two sides: the kitchen side and the entrance side.

It's also an option to make the left wall a solid wall without a window!

[Benefits of using a recessed frame]

The benefits of using a recessed frame include the ability to create various frame designs and ease of installation, but another advantage is that it can slightly reduce the lifting of the wallpaper.

By holding the wallpaper down with the frame, you can slightly prevent it from lifting.

◾️Shelf 2

I made a shelf for the kitchen-side wall.

I attached a magnetic sheet to the back of the shelf, so it sticks firmly to the wall where I applied a steel sheet.

This shelf has a hinged door,

and I used black masking tape as a substitute for hinges.

By the way, for the handles, I used plastic rods painted with a marker.

Plastic rods cut into short pieces and painted with a gold marker.

The kitchen-side furniture is now finished!

◾️How to make a bracket light (wall lamp)

Next, I will make the lighting to attach to the entrance-side wall.

The light I am using this time is an LED light purchased from a 100-yen shop. I tried modifying it from its original 8 lights to 3 lights.

It was my first time trying a modification... (nervous)

*Regarding modification methods and the like, I am a beginner so I won't explain them here, but there are people who explain them in detail on the internet, YouTube, etc., so please try searching for them if you'd like!

Regarding the wall sconce, first, make three holes in a piece of cardboard cut into a rectangle.

Next, attach plain paper printed with a wood grain pattern, and make holes along the holes you already made.

At this point, make the same holes on the wall side as well.

It is easier to make the holes if you use the cardboard you made as a guide.

I made the holes large enough for the light to pass through.

Next, wrap thin strips of gold My-Lap tape around a paper straw.

It is easier to cut the tape if you stick it onto a cutting mat with grid lines.

Cut the paper straw along the tape you attached.

Glue the glass dome onto the ring of the cut paper straw.

Glue the glass dome and the paper straw ring together (it might be good to paint the inside of the paper straw gold before gluing).

Once glued, attach them to the cardboard with the holes you made earlier.

Insert the light through the hole, and the wall sconce is complete.

Finally, attach magnets to the back of the cardboard.

Make a hole (make it just deep enough so it doesn't go through to the front).

When you install it on the wall and insert the light from behind the wall, it looks like this.

This time, I used a glass dome, but it would also be good to make various designs of bracket lights (wall lighting) using other materials.

◾️Shelf 3

I will build a shelf under the wall lighting I made.
As always, the shelf itself will be made of cardboard covered with plain paper printed with a wood grain pattern.

・How to make a hinged door

For Shelf 2, I used masking tape to make a hinged door, but this time I will use T-pins to make it openable.

*For Shelf 2, I used 1mm thick cardboard for the hinged door, so I couldn't insert T-pins and used masking tape as a hinge instead. However, for Shelf 3 and Shelf 4, I am layering cardboard to make them 2mm thick, so I will use T-pins.

First, make a hole in the door, insert the T-pin, and cut off the excess part of the pin.

Once the T-pins are inserted into the top and bottom of the door, make holes in the shelf body as well.

Make holes where the T-pins will be inserted.

While inserting the pins into the holes, glue the top board of the shelf.

The shelf handles and legs are made of plastic rods painted with a gold marker.

Cut the plastic rods and paint them with a marker.

Once the handles and legs are glued on, it's finished!

◾️Shelf 4

I also made Shelf 4 to the right of Shelf 3.

I made it into a hinged door using the same method as shelf 3.

I actually made the drawer part properly, but due to a design error, it became difficult to pull out...

The drawer part can't be pulled out and is just for decoration...
I'm sure I'll be able to make it better next time I try...! Haha

◾️How to make a Christmas tree

When I started making this patisserie, Christmas was approaching, so I thought, 'I'd like to put a tree in the shop too,' and made one, but by the time I'm writing this, Christmas is already over. Haha

However, since I went to the trouble of making it, I'll briefly explain how to make it.

First, cut a paper straw to an appropriate length,

and paint it green.

Sticking green paper on it might also be good.

Once it's dry, cut some thick green pipe cleaners to appropriate lengths, bend them, and glue them on.

For the very top, I inserted a pipe cleaner bent in half
into the paper straw and glued it so it would blend in,
making it look pretty good (roughly).

Once all the pipe cleaners are glued on, use a brush or similar tool to lightly apply gesso.

Rather than painting it solid, it's more like lightly dabbing it on.
Snowy look!

I glued this star to the very top.

I bought it at Daiso a long time ago,
so I'm not sure if they still sell it...

The tree is done, so next I'll make the base part.

First, cut paper straws to appropriate lengths and glue them together to form a circle.

I intentionally made the lengths uneven.

Next, cut some cardboard into a circle.
(A circle the size that fits exactly into the straw circle from earlier.)

Cut out a circle in the middle that is wide enough for the paper straw to be inserted,

Insert it into the circle of the paper straw from earlier and glue it in place.

Next, glue craft paper or something similar over the hollow part of the paper straw to seal it,

Paint it and it's done.
(It would also look fine left as is, since the color of the paper straw is nice.)

This is how it looks when you decorate it with ornaments.

I made the ornaments using
beads and accessory parts.

By the way, the reason I split this side's shelf into two, Shelf 3 and Shelf 4, is because I wanted to be able to change the layout when displaying seasonal items like trees.