Exploring Kyoto: Arashiyama and Nishiyama Area (Part 2)

On the final day, I visited Katsura Imperial Villa (advance reservation required). After completing the standard procedures, I followed the guide. The moment I stepped inside, even before walking around the garden, I was struck by its atmosphere. It is not so much the pinnacle of garden design as it is the depth of its maintenance. It is not just the plants and buildings; one can feel the care put into every single stepping stone.
The garden is a strolling-style garden with a complexly shaped pond at its center, imitating nature with islands and artificial hills. It features sukiya-style shoin buildings, tea houses, stone lanterns, and water basins, all surrounded by trees and moss maintained like bonsai. The scenery that unfolds as you walk through is different from that of temples, shrines, or daimyo estates; it possesses a certain elegance.
Originally, it was a villa established by Prince Hachijo (Prince Toshihito), the younger brother of Emperor Go-Yozei. Later, with the support of the Maeda family of Kaga, it was developed and completed in the mid-17th century. Since the Hachijo-no-miya line died out in the Meiji era, it came under the jurisdiction of the Imperial Household Ministry, which continues to this day. While it is certainly a facility for the luxury and leisure of the imperial family, it is also undeniably an embodiment of early modern Japanese culture.
On the way to the station, I came across the Shimokatsura Goryo Shrine. While Goryo shrines in the city typically enshrine the vengeful spirit of Prince Sawara, this one seems to enshrine Tachibana no Hayanari. Although Hayanari was one of the 'Three Brushes' (Sanpitsu), he fell from grace during the Jowa Incident and died as a guest on his way to exile in Izu. Given that his reputation was restored after his death, it is assumed that Hayanari was falsely accused, and this shrine likely exists to appease his vengeful spirit.
The Jowa Incident was a political upheaval that occurred in the 9th year of Jowa (842). At the time, the imperial succession was in the order of Saga (52nd), Junna (Saga's younger brother), and Ninmyo (Saga's son), and the Crown Prince (the next emperor) was Prince Tsunesada (Junna's son). At this point, nobles on Prince Tsunesada's side were suspected of treason, and the Crown Prince was replaced by Prince Michiyasu (the son of Emperor Ninmyo and the younger sister of Fujiwara no Yoshifusa, the future Emperor Montoku).
Tachibana no Hayanari was considered a ringleader, and dozens of others, including Tomo no Kowamine (exiled to Oki), were implicated. The prestigious Tachibana and Tomo clans declined as a result. Meanwhile, Yoshifusa became the first regent in history and, as an imperial relative (father-in-law to Montoku and grandfather to Seiwa), paved the way for the prosperity of the Fujiwara clan. What is peculiar is that Tachibana no Kachiko (Saga's Empress and Ninmyo's mother), who was a relative and cousin of Hayanari, sided with Yoshifusa.
This brings to mind that when I visited Umenomiya Taisha the other day, Emperor Saga, Tachibana no Kachiko, and Emperor Ninmyo were enshrined there. Certainly, Ninmyo becoming emperor was a joy for his mother, Kachiko, and led to the prosperity of the Tachibana clan. However, her relative Hayanari suffered a tragic fate, and in the end, the Tachibana clan declined. Was the melancholy I felt at Umenomiya Taisha due to this history of regret? (End)