Oeyama Mountain Range 👹 'Aka-Aka Trail' 2-Day Traverse | A 26km Tent Camping Log Struggling with Heat, Getting Lost, and Ticks

To Mt. Akaishigatake | The most beautiful grassy ridge on the Aka-Aka Trail

I took a detour from Onitake Inari Shrine to the Shuten-doji memorial monument, and from behind it, I climbed onto the ridge of the traverse route.

Just before the junction above Kaya Soho Park, the view suddenly opened up.
Beyond the bamboo grass, a single path stretched straight along the grassy ridge.
The path continued as if being sucked into Mt. Akaishigatake.

As if drawn in, my feet moved forward.

However, once I passed the junction and the climb began, that composure was rapidly eroded. Red rocks were scattered everywhere, and my footing was unstable. The heat accumulated in my body. The feeling of enjoyment vanished, leaving only the thought, 'Haven't I arrived yet?'

The moment I reached the summit, the reality that I had to return the way I came was waiting. The climb back up to the Onitake Inari Shrine junction. The scenery hadn't changed. Only the state of my body had changed the world I saw.

Senjogatake to Nabetsuka | Enduring the heat on a ridgeline with little shade

From the Onitake Inari Shrine junction to Mt. Senjogatake, it was surprisingly gentle. The view from the summit was wonderful. However, there was almost no shade. Even while sitting, my body was being scorched.

What saved me was the low humidity. Every time I stepped into the shade of the trees, a refreshing breeze would pass through. The nightmare of walking along a windless ridge wrapped in heat at the same time last year came back to me, and I reminded myself that this was better than that. That small sense of relief kept my feet moving forward.

The path from Senjogatake toward Hatogamine and Nabezuka involves many steep descents and climbs. The view improves every time you reach a peak. Standing on the summit of Hatogamine, I could see Nabezuka in the foreground and even a structure that looked like an air traffic control tower in the distance. Today's goal was too far away. Each time I realized that, my spirits were chipped away a little more.

There was no shade on the climb to Nabezuka, and the early summer sun continued to scorch me mercilessly.

Even so, seeing the rounded ridge of Nabezuka rising into the sky made me stop in my tracks. Even though it was painful, I found myself captivated. Mountains have that kind of power.

Mt. Okasa Tent Camping | Oni no Iwaya and a Night That Was Too Quiet

From Nabezuka, I went through Oni no Iwaya to Mt. Okasa. Oni no Iwaya, said to be the home of Shuten-doji, was a quieter place than I had imagined. An air traffic control tower appeared at the observation deck beyond it. It was a scene too strange to see in the middle of the mountains.

When I pitched my tent on Mt. Okasa, the heat that had been clinging to my body slowly faded away.

There was almost no wind. I could only hear the voices of owls and deer. It was too quiet. When it's too quiet, it feels unnatural. There was a sense in the darkness that I might be spirited away.

I drifted in and out of a light sleep several times. My fatigue had faded. But it was a strange night.

Mt. Fukō to Chayaganari | Amanohashidate seen through a gap in the mountains

When I left Mt. Okasa, the air still held the humidity of the morning. From the path descending to Fukō Pass, the quality of the trail started to become a bit questionable. The path was becoming buried in fallen leaves, branches, and grass. I suppose not many people walk here.

I climbed straight up the slope of a closed ski resort to reach Mt. Fukō. The incline was gentle, and the view was open, making for a pleasant walk. Not a bad start.

When I arrived at Chayaganari, wooden benches and a gazebo were lined up in the grassy area.

Beyond that, there were overlapping mountains, and beyond them, there was the sea. It was Amanohashidate. It didn't look like it was playing the lead role. It was just casually there, in a gap between the mountains.

I thought, "I saw it." That was all. I still had some composure left.

The core of Mt. Sugi | Losing the composure to enjoy the scenery due to getting lost and ticks

From the moment I entered Mt. Sugi, the air changed.

The ridge widened, and the path dissolved. Fallen branches were scattered about, and pink tape was hidden in the shadows of the trees. I couldn't see it unless I changed my angle slightly. Every time I found one, I had to look for the next.

And then there are the ticks. Every time I push through the grass, they crawl up my shoes and legs. I stop to brush them off, then walk again. In fact, after passing through Sugiyama, there was one on my shoe.

Before I knew it, I could hear the sound of my own breathing. It was almost deafening. Every time I took a step, I hesitated. The soles of my feet were picking up the unevenness of the ground in an strangely detailed way.

The world had become nothing but markers.

I wasn't looking at the scenery. I didn't even take photos. All that was in my field of vision was the color of the next tape and the grass at my feet. I wasn't even thinking about the Amanohashidate I had seen from Chayaganaru anymore.

The summit marker for Sugiyama appeared among the trees. It had been a long time. Finally, I had made it through the core section. Now for the second half.

Unogatake | The route became clear, and I could finally enjoy the scenery

The moment I entered Unogatake, the route returned.

I can read the path. The forest becomes gentle. Large trees stand quietly, and there was space to breathe within the deep green. Something that had been tense at Sugiyama began to loosen little by little.

From the summit, Amanohashidate and the townscape of Miyazu spread out directly in front of me.

It was a view I had seen once before at Chayaganaru. But this time it was different. I sat down on a rock and gazed at it for a while. I had made it this far. Only one peak left, Akaiwayama.

One last push and I'll reach the goal. That feeling settled into my body. Even though I was still in the same mountains, the colors of the world felt completely different.

Akaiwayama | The composure that returned the moment I saw the goal

From Unogatake to Akaiwayama, you have to descend to a saddle and climb back up. The fatigue hasn't fully worn off. My legs are heavy. Even so, the fact that all that was left was the descent kept my body moving forward.

The summit was a rocky area. On top of the marker post, a small stone painted light blue was resting.

It must have been drawn and left there by someone. The stone had a mountain ridge and some characters carved into it.

At Mount Sugiyama, I didn't even have the energy to take photos. Yet now, looking at this small stone, my face softened.

Perhaps this is what it means for color to return to the world.

A fawn and empty water

After going back and forth to Mount Akaiwa, I descended toward Kita Station via the Daira Trail. The descent path, showing little sign of being trodden, was nearly buried in fallen leaves and branches.

On the way, a fawn was lying down right in the middle of the trail. It blended in so perfectly with its surroundings that I didn't notice it at first. It stayed perfectly still, watching me with caution. The moment I crouched down to try and meet its gaze, it scrambled down the slope with shaky legs.

It was like a child running away from a suspicious stranger. I felt a bit conflicted.

When I arrived at Kita Station, my water had just run out. If my judgment had been slightly off, it might have been dangerous. The train wasn't for another hour and a half. I couldn't help but laugh.

Oeyama Mountain Range, Aka-Aka Traverse, after finishing the 2-day journey.

Fatigue, heat, and the composure I lost time and time again.

On the second day, my pack was light. That was because my water and food were almost gone. I was amazed at how free my body felt just from that.

If I can reduce my load a little more, I can go even further.

I want to walk that single path through the meadow again, but with a lighter pack next time.

💡 2-Day Itinerary Data (Summary)

Route:
[Day 1] 2026/5/30
Oe Station🚃 ~ 🚕 (using Oni-Taxi) ~ Onitake Inari Shrine ~ Mt. Akaishigatake ~ Mt. Senjogatake ~ Mt. Hatogamine ~ Mt. Nabezuka ~ Mt. Ogasa (Overnight)

[Day 2] 2026/5/31
Mt. Ogasa ~ Fukotoge Pass ~ Mt. Fukoyama ~ Chayaganari ~ Mt. Sugiyama ~ Mt. Unogatake ~ Mt. Akaiwayama ~ Daira Trail Junction ~ Kita Station

・Walking distance: 26.6km
・Time required: 11 hours 40 minutes (including breaks)
・Step count: steps
・Cumulative elevation: Ascent 1,743m, Descent 2,365m

💡 Trail Tips

• Since public transport to the trailhead is inconvenient, using the Oni-Taxi is helpful. Please refer to the Fukuchiyama City Hall website for details.

• There are no water sources on the ridgeline, so it is better to bring plenty of drinking water.

• It is easier to walk if you go from Mt. Akaiwagadake toward the Mt. Akaishiyama area.

• The section of the Aka-Aka Trail that requires the most caution: between Chayaganari, Mt. Sugiyama, and just before Mt. Unogatake. The reasons are that the path is faint, the ridge is wide, it is easy to lose sight of the pink markers, and there are many ticks. The frequency of checking GPS was quite high.

• The path from Chayaganari to the ascent of Mt. Sugiyama is difficult to understand, so it is best to proceed after confirming the markers carefully. There is always another marker nearby.

• Since the Kyoto Tango Railway has few trains, I recommend checking the timetable in advance.

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▶ If you are looking for a traverse route where the feeling of "having walked it all" lasts until the end, I also recommend this Koganezawa Ridge traverse.⤵