[L&F] 27 "B21A" Molybdenum Doping Overboost!! <Maruyama Molybdenum Base Power GX ATF 200ml>

I wrote about the time I doped my engine oil last time, so first, here are my impressions.

･ It became quieter
･ The output became smoother
･ The accelerator pedal feels lighter when driving at a constant speed
･ The response to changes in the accelerator improved
･ Fuel economy improved slightly

I think. I feel.
I didn't measure it, so it's all just my feeling.Subjective.
Well, it wasn't a dramatic change!! but I clearly felt a difference.
Oh, but regarding fuel economy, the number displayed on the meter went from around 10 point high to 11 point low km, to 11 point high to 12 point low km on the same roads, so it seems to have increased by less than 10%.
Well, I rarely drive the car anymore, so the sample size is small, though.

So, I thought this was a good state. I thought I'd try adding a little more.
By adding, I don't mean doing some follow-up molybdenum to the engine oil lol, I thought I'd introduce some for other parts.

So, Bam!!
I captured Maruyama Molybdenum Base Power GX ATF 200ml.

I skipped the explanation last time too, but to explain it very roughly, this is one of the Maruyama Molybdenum series of molybdenum additives called "Base Power" used for various machine oils made by a company called Base Power series. Base Power has two main series, one is "
Suspension". Over 30 years ago, a place called Keihan Shokai completed the recipe and Maruyama Molybdenum manufactured it, and it became a hot topic in the vintage car and tuned car industry a few years ago. The one I put in my B21A the other day was also this engine version of the Suspension series. The other one is "
Concentrate". This is a recipe that Maruyama Molybdenum itself researched and created for modern cars. It's not like if you put Concentrate in an old car it will break, it's more like it can demonstrate its effects better.

This GX is apparently the name for differential and transmission oil, and ATF means it's the GX for AT. The AT version of Suspension has a confusing name like "Base Power PRO 830 II ATF Suspension" lol, but Concentrate is GX for MT and GX ATF for AT. It's made a bit easier to understand. Since the B21A is a CVT, it was written that you should use this GX ATF for CVT.

I'll write later why there are two bottles.

A quick observation before doping.
Well, as usual, there's a lot written on it.

Well, it's pretty packed.
Wait... huh?

Just this one line, is a thin sticker. What happened? Should I peel it off?

Peel, peel, peel.
Ah, they corrected a typo for "molybdenum disulfide" lol. I don't know if it's by lot or what, but I wonder if they stuck them on one by one like this. I think in this day and age, it would be enough to just write "Notice of printing error" on the website. They're so serious these days.
I have a good impression of them lol. No, seriously.

There were no other typos.

And according to the instructions, add 5% of the total ATF volume. My B21A's
total ATF volume is 6L. 5% is 300ml. In other words, remove 300 and add 300. Understood!!
For our Big Fire!! One bottle is 200ml, so I need two. That's why I bought two this time. Now, let's capture a tool to remove 300.

Thump!! It arrived.

The package is all crinkly.

Inside is a set consisting of a 500ml syringe and a catheter to attach to the tip.
As for the item itself, I think you can find the same thing through medical supply categories, but this is in the oil change tool category after all. I wonder which category is the cheapest. I'm not going to look into it that deeply lol.

It was rattling, so I took a look and found an adapter? hidden where the piston pulls back. I don't know what it's used for lol.

Two 1m catheters are included.

The tip is blocked and there are holes on the sides.
It's designed so that even if there's an obstruction at the very end when you push the catheter all the way in, you can still suck it up.

Catheter attached. Time to do battle.
The oil level gauge is about 50cm long, so I think 1m might be a bit long, but it's a material I can cut if it's inconveniently long, so let's try it with this first.

Pop the hood.

The white knob visible in the center of the photo is the ATF oil level gauge.

When you pull it, it comes out smoothly.

This is what's inside. You measure the amount of ATF by the markings on the tip, but it's so long. Much longer than the one for engine oil.

Get the syringe ready. When I set it down, the tip of the catheter happened to be near the engine oil filler port, but that's irrelevant lol.

Commence operation!!
One thing became clear here.
I thought ATF would be thinner than engine oil, but it wouldn't come up at all lol. I pulled as hard as I could, but it only came up very slowly. When I got nervous about it slipping out and was a bit gentle, it didn't come up at all. In the photo, there's a gap between the liquid and the piston. This is the result of pulling from zero at the start, you know lol. This is about 100ml, but it took a lot of careful full-power effort. Because if it slips out, it'll be a disaster with oil everywhere, right lol.
It's sold as an oil tool after all, but this nozzle diameter is tough for the viscosity of oil.
So, next time I do this kind of work, I'll use something more like a manual oil pump designed for this task. Well, it's easier to just ask the mechanic to add the additive when doing a full change. I'll ask next time I go.

With that, I spent a lot of time sucking out the ATF and put it into a plastic bottle that I had pre-measured and marked at 300ml to check.
... It's pretty black lol.
Well, there's still some distance left, so this time I'll hold off on the ATF change and just stick with injecting the additive.

Okay, I put 300ml of molybdenum into the syringe, and the plan is to connect the catheter and inject it as is after measuring. The color is just like engine oil. Apparently, this is the color of molybdenum.
Here we go.
Slurp... it's so slow that it doesn't even make a sound lol.
I pushed with quite a bit of effort, too. I think it's on the thinner side for oil, but this thickness seems to be tough. Well, I accept it as my own lack of study, but it's painful how slow it is, like an IV drip lol.

And since there was no change in the scene after that, I didn't take any photos lol, but I'll write down the situation.

After the injection was finished, I started the engine to let the additive settle and check the oil level. According to what I looked up, there were several things written like 'until the radiator fan turns on twice' or 'warm it up for at least 15 minutes', so I took it for a leisurely 2km drive. Unlike when I did the engine, I don't feel like it got that quiet.
Then, I checked the level. It was on the low side of the acceptable range.
Hmm. Let's put in the remaining 100ml lol.
I put it in, it became closer to the high side of the range, and with that, I called it good, cleaned up, and finished the work.
I'll take it for a spin again with my usual driving style.
Hmm... the acceleration response when I step on it might have improved a little.
When I did the engine doping, the engine response improved, but there was still that lag or delay typical of an AT when accelerating the car body, but the sluggishness feels a little better.
Since the work was completed safely, I'll drive it for a while and observe the situation.

...
......
............

Okay, about 3 weeks have passed, so I'll write about how it feels after driving it a few times.

・It's true that acceleration is smoother and the response has improved. But well, it's not a power-up. It's just that the lag and sluggishness have decreased.

･What I felt even more clearly was that it stopped slowing down well, saying it stopped is an exaggeration, but since it's a CVT, which is a cousin to the AT, it's natural that engine braking isn't as effective as in an MT, but the deceleration when I let off the gas became much more gradual｡ There's a fairly steep downhill slope on my usual route, and it just zooms down now lol. So, what changes in daily driving? As I wrote at the beginning, it became even clearer that I don't have to press the gas as much when driving at a constant speed｡ I think this is the result of the friction reduction effect of the molybdenum additive spreading throughout the engine and transmission, which are the most complex parts of the powertrain, manifesting as a significant reduction in friction loss｡

However, regarding fuel economy, the temperature has been getting really hot and the air conditioner has been working much harder than before the doping so the fuel economy figure displayed on the meter has dropped to around the low 10s lol, so I think I'll wait and see a bit more regarding fuel economy.

I'll continue to watch over my car, which has become smoother, with a smile.