There's no shortage of keyboards on the market, and you'll come across dozens of options, regardless of the budget and the type of board you are looking for. From affordable membrane keyboards to a relatively high-end mechanical keyboard with unique and interesting switches and keycaps, you'll find plenty of new options popping up on almost a daily basis on public forums. You'll also find some robust communities with plenty of members churning out and showcasing their keyboards every day.

But the world of keyboards, especially when you consider mechanical keyboards, is not necessarily an easy place to thrive for beginners, as there is a long list of things that you'll need to understand before jumping into forums or marketplaces for a good keyboard. If this is your first time trying to buy a keyboard, and you are finding it difficult to understand all the jargon the community members and product pages are throwing at you, then you might want to familiarise yourself with the important terms that'll help you navigate the keyboard world better.

Keyboard layout terms

More layouts than you probably know of

  • Full size layout: This refers to a standard full-sized keyboard design that comes with a full function row and even a 10-key number pad on the right side next to the navigation cluster. These keyboards come in 104-key (ANSI) or 105-key (ISO) options.
  • Tenkeyless (TKL): A relatively more compact design of keyboard that ditches the numpad on the right side from a full-size keyboard, leaving behind just the navigation cluster next to the alphas and modifier keys.
  • 75% layout: This layout is smaller than a tenkeyless design, but still includes a function row and the navigation keys on the right along with a column above it with four to five keys. This layout can be had in regular 75% or exploded 75% flavors, with the latter having the arrow keys and the four key columns slightly separated from the rest. The Akko MOD007B-PC keyboard that we recently reviewed is a good example of a 75% layout.
  • 65% layout: A more compact version of the 75% layout that ditches the function row on top of the alphas and numbers.
  • 60% layout: One of the most popular compact keyboard layouts that not only ditches the function row on the top, but also skips the 10-key number pad and the arrow keys along with the column above it. This layout is quite popular among mechanical keyboard enthusiasts and even gamers who like having a relatively smaller keyboard on the desk, leaving more space for mouse movements.
  • 40% layout: An even smaller layout compared to 60% that removes the number row from the top of the alpha keys. Some 40% keyboards also remove certain mod keys, making you create modifier combinations for standard typing. This is a rather niche layout that's only preferred by a subset of keyboard enthusiasts who are used to working with fewer keys on their boards.
  • Ortholinear: This particular keyboard layout puts equally-sized keys on the board in a uniform grid. The keys on an ortholinear keyboard are horizontally and vertically aligned with each other, unlike normal keyboards where every row is offset from the other.
  • ANSI: ANSI stands for the American National Standards Institute, and it's the standard format for the keyboard sold in the United States and in regions where English is not the primary language. This layout has a rectangular Enter key that sits in a single row, right below the backslash key. Both the left and right shift keys on this layout are also the same.
  • ISO: An alternate key format recognized by the International Organization for Standardization, which is popular in the United Kingdom and other European countries. These keyboards have a unique double-row Enter that's shaped like an upside-down L, and a smaller left Shift key.
  • QWERTY: This is a standard key layout found on most English keyboards, which is preferred over some other rare alternatives like Dvorak.
  • Bottom row: Bottom row, as the name implies, denotes the lowest row on the keyboard, which includes the space bar and modifier keys. The standard bottom row layout uses three 1.25-sized keys on the left, a 6.25-sized space bar, and four 1.25-sized keys on the right. There's also the 'Tsangan' bottom layout that replaces the 6.25u-sized space bar from the bottom with a 7u key and removes one of the four modifier keys on the right for symmetry.
  • HHKB: A modified 60% layout design that's based on older Unix systems and is popular among Linux users and programmers. The HHKB layout was popularized by the 'Happy Hacking Keyboard (HHKB),' which is a commercial range of keyboards from Japan that uses Topre-brand electrostatic capacitive switches.
  • WKL: A WKL, which is short for WinKeyLess, is a keyboard that ditches the Windows key that's usually found between the Ctrl and Alt keys on both sides of the space bar in the bottom row.

Key switch terms

Everything about the key switches you press

You're probably aware of the fact that mechanical keyboards use a mechanical switch on every key. But do you know that there are different types of mechanical switches, each with their own unique and confusing jargon?

  • Cherry MX switch: The standard type of switch used in modern mechanical keyboards. These switches were originally developed by German company Cherry in the 1980s, but there are plenty of modern renditions out there, like the Cherry MX2A switch that we recently reviewed. These switches come in different colors, but they all have the same design with a cross-shaped stem that's popularly known as the MX-style stem.
  • Cherry MX clone: A switch that's designed to match the MX style switches developed by Cherry, but manufactured by a different brand. All the MX-style switches made by manufacturers like Gateron, Zeal, BSUN, and more are essentially Cherry MX clones.
  • Actuation force: The amount of force required to press down a key and register a keypress. This is measured in grams, and it can be different based on the switch you are using. Switches with heavier springs require you to press down with more force to actuate them, while switches with lighter springs require less actuation force. The popular Cherry MX Black Hyperglide switch has an actuation force of 60 grams.
  • Bottom out force: This denotes the force required to press a key switch to its full depth. This is not to be confused with the actuation force, as the mechanical key switch typically actuates before bottoming out, meaning you don't necessarily have to fully bottom out a key switch for it to register a keypress. To put things into perspective, the same Cherry MX Black Hyperglide mentioned above switch has a bottom force of 80 grams.
  • Travel distance: This refers to the actual distance a key can travel or can be pushed down. This can be further classified into pre-travel or total distance. The pre-travel distance refers to the actual distance the keys have to be pushed down before the keystroke is recognized. The total travel distance, on the other hand, refers to the total distance a key can travel before it bottoms out. This is not to be confused with the actuation force or the bottom out force, as we're simply referring to the actual travel distance to actuation and bottom out, not the force required to cover that distance. The travel distance to actuation in case of the Cherry MX Black Hyperglides is 2mm, whereas its total travel distance (to bottom out) is 4mm.
  • Linear: A type of switch that's designed to have a smooth motion from top to bottom and actuation. These switches don't have a "click" or tactile feedback.
  • Tactile: A type of switch designed with a "bump" on the switch stem to give you tactile feedback upon successful actuation.
  • Clicky: Another type of switch that makes an audible "click" sound upon actuation. Clicky switches are not to be confused with tactiles, as the latter only offers tactile feedback with a bump, and not an audible sound.
  • Tactile bump: This refers to the bump that you can feel on tactile switches at their actuation point. You'll essentially feel this bump upon actuation and before bottoming out.
  • Tactile force: This is similar to the actuation force, except it refers to the point at which you feel the 'tactile bump' in tactile switches.
  • Key bounce: Key bounce, a.k.a. 'Chattering,' causes one switch press to be detected as multiple presses. This is a common problem that's usually seen in older keys or defective keys that aren't working properly.
  • Key lifecycle: Represents the number of actuations a key switch is rated for. A typical mechanical keyboard switch is rated for 20 to 50 million actuations.
  • Rubber dome: A standard non-mechanical (membrane) keyboard type that uses rubber domes or a sheet of rubber to cover electrical switches, which are then activated when the key is depressed.
  • Scissor switch: A low profile switch design that's typically found in laptop keyboards that use plastic or metal hinges to support the key. Though these keys are mechanical in nature, they're often not included while discussing mechanical keyboards.
  • Electrostatic capacitive switch: A type of "semi-mechanical" switch that typically uses rubber domes over a spiral-shaped spring that rests directly on the keyboard's circuit board.
  • Topre: A type of electrostatic capacitive switch that's named after a Japanese corporation that makes it. These switches are usually found on Topre's own Realforce branded keyboards as well as the Happy Hacking Keyboard family.
  • Optical switch: Unlike standard mechanical keyboard switches that use metal leaf connection to trigger a keypress, optical switches use an optical sensor that reacts to light induction and registers a keystroke. The PCBs for regular MX switches and optical switches work differently, so they are not interchangeable either.
  • Optical analog switch: Optical analog switches work similarly to optical switches, except these don't have a set actuation point. You can use software to set where the actuation happens along the entire distance of travel, letting you mimic the joystick controls or the triggers on a controller. You can even set two actuation points if you want, depending on the travel distance of the switch. These switches were first seen on the Razer Tartarus Pro keyboard.
  • Mecha-Membrane: This is a type of switch that mimics a true mechanical clicky switch, but retains a mushy and relatively quiet bottoming out profile. These are essentially rubber dome switches with a built-in clicker to mimic the mechanical feel, although they're known to lose tactility or the "clicky" feel over a period of time.

Keyboard parts and other terms

There's more to a keyboard than just switches & layout

  • Keycap: A plastic or metal cover that sits on top of each switch. This (usually) user-replaceable part is available in various sizes and shapes.
  • PCB: A printed circuit board that registers key presses and sends electronic signals across to your PC.
  • Plate: A part that's typically made out of metal or plastic (can also be made of unique materials like carbon fiber, acrylic, etc.) that sits on top of the PCB to protect it. It also acts as a base for key switches, affecting the overall typing sound and feel.
  • Stabilizers: A component that's installed either directly on the PCB (PCB-mounted stabs) or on the plate (plate-mounted stabs) that adds additional stems to support larger keys like space bar and Enter key. PCB-mounted stabilizers can be further classified as screw-in or clip-in style stabilizers based on how you install them on the PCB.
  • Key rollover: Key rollover refers to the maximum number of simultaneous keypresses a keyboard can recognize and correctly input them to the computer in sequence. Consider buying a keyboard that can handle more rollover if you want to type faster.
  • N-key rollover: A keyboard with n-key rollover can scan each keypress individually, even if you press a bunch of them simultaneously. The "n" in n-key rollover is sometimes replaced with a number such as 6. In such a case, you can press up to six keys at once and your keyboard will still recognize them as separate keypresses and input them correctly.
  • Lubing: Lubing a keyboard involves applying a formulated substance like Krytox 205g0 to the internals of a mechanical switch to change how it feels and sounds.

Closing thoughts

And those are most of the keyboard terms that you need to know as a beginner to get started. Knowing these jargon won't make you an expert in this subject, but they'll make your quest to find keyboards a bit easier. You may or may not need all these terms when you're getting started as a beginner, but having a good understanding of these terms will help you find the right keyboard and narrow down the options. Knowing the kind of switches or the stabilizers used on your keyboard will help you shop for spares when you need them. You can even plan your upgrades or modifications when you know exactly the kind of parts that go into your keyboard.