Trying my hand at something called direction

I believe it was about a year ago.

Following a pop-up at IDÉE TOKYO inside Tokyo Station, IDÉE approached me with the idea of creating an original IDÉE diffuser in collaboration with çanoma.

I was very interested, but there was one constraint: the fragrance had to be created in collaboration with a specific Japanese fragrance manufacturer. In other words, I could not use Jean-Michel Duriez, the perfumer who handles çanoma's fragrances.

Since the çanoma brand creates its scents backed by French perfumery techniques and Japanese sensibilities, it was difficult to accept that condition as it was. For that reason, I initially declined.

However, I still wanted to work on the project as much as I could, so we held a meeting with everyone involved. As a result of the discussion, we decided to proceed with the project in a way where I would personally direct the fragrance—rather than as çanoma—and ask the perfumer at that fragrance manufacturer to create the recipe.

Given that kind of start, I am relieved that we managed to successfully reach the launch.

There were many moments that felt difficult. Usually, I just have to make what I want to make, but this time I had to embody what the IDÉE representative wanted to express as a fragrance, based on the image they brought. Since the IDÉE representative was the main character, I made sure to be careful not to speak up too much, while still asserting myself where necessary; I valued this 'delicate balance.' Also, since it was a different perfumer than usual, I felt confused by the unfamiliar communication at first.

On the other hand, overall, I was able to work on the project very enjoyably. Once I got used to it, the interaction with the perfumer became intellectual and fun.

What was especially good throughout the entire project was being able to watch the 'growth' of the IDÉE representative right beside me.

I remember well when the very first prototype came up. When asked for my comments on the scent, the first thing she said was, 'I don't know if this will sell.' At that time, I chided her—half-jokingly, half-seriously—saying, 'Please don't make such uninspired remarks at a creative site,' but I was incredibly anxious about the future of this project. Even though she was initially enthusiastic about 'wanting to create something new,' I felt that if she stayed in this stance, we might end up with something uninspired, and in the first place, I felt there was no point in me being there.

That same person, before I knew it, had become able to convey exactly what she felt to the perfumer. Now, I have reached a point where I can proceed with the project just by adding a light supplement after her comments.

Also, the reason this project went well was largely due to the power of a certain perfumer. There was intelligence felt in every scent that person created. I believe the reason for this is that they properly chewed over our briefing and presented prototypes based on their own interpretation. Normally, I would like to mention that perfumer's name, but I was told that it is not possible due to the fragrance manufacturer's policy. It is a great pity.

This was my first time directing another brand in a solid form. What I felt there was that, although it puts pressure on me, direction is indeed important. If the IDÉE representative had proceeded with this project alone, it would have been completely different even if the other conditions were the same. No matter how much money you spend, no matter how good the materials you use, and no matter how good the perfumer you hire, the brand's identity resides only in the direction.

I am often asked, 'If there is a perfumer, isn't a director unnecessary?' but through this project, I was able to reaffirm the importance of direction. I think that alone was a big harvest for me.

The collection name is 'ensemble'.

There are three scents: "concreto," "viento," and "luz." They are currently available for pre-sale at the newly opened IDÉE Shinjuku store and online (scheduled for release at all stores starting May 10th).

On Saturday, April 27th, and Sunday, April 28th, from 1:00 PM to 5:00 PM, the IDÉE representative and I will be at the Shinjuku store. You might even be able to hear some behind-the-scenes stories that I can't write here...

So, please come by. I'll be waiting.

[çanoma Official Website]

[çanoma Instagram]
@canoma_parfum

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