One and Only! Nine Seated Amida Nyorai Statues at National Treasure "Joruri-ji Temple" National Treasure Festival & Buddhist Statue Temple - [Kyoto Minamiyamashiro Series]
A famous temple located in Kizugawa City, Kyoto, on the border of Kyoto and Nara! A treasure trove of Buddhist statues, including the "Nine Seated Amida Nyorai Statues," which are the only ones of their kind remaining in Japan and are designated as National Treasures, as well as the "Standing Four Heavenly Kings"!
Change History
2023/07/15 Refined for the Nara National Museum "Minamiyamashiro Exhibition" (Search the page for "2023/07/15 Update")
2022/07/14 Update (Search for "2022/07/14 Update")
2022/04/16 Standing Fudo Myoo Statue and Two Attendant Statues @ All Important Cultural Properties updated
2022/03/20 Video link
2021/09/24 Typo correction (changed 'time' to 'temple')
2021/08/04 First edition
2021/08/25 Photos added
Website (Kizugawa City Tourism Site)
Access
Paid parking available. Buses are also available, but a car is recommended if you plan to visit multiple locations.
Places to visit together
Gansen-ji Temple, Daichi-ji Temple, Shindo-ji Temple, Kaijusen-ji Temple, and many others.
▼Highlights
---↓2023/07/15 Update
Located on the Kasagi Kaido road, this was once an area where temples such as Chosen-ji and Zuigan-ji were gathered
It was a branch temple of Kofuku-ji, including Ganosen-ji Temple.
An ancient temple where Pure Land Buddhism from the late Heian period survives.
It began in 1047 when a monk from Taima-dera in Nara established the principal image, but it is speculated that this was separate from the current main hall as it seems to have been built overnight.
On the other hand, there is also a theory that it was established by Minamoto no Mitsunaka.
It is also land owned by the Konoe family, the direct line of the Fujiwara clan.
In 1107, it is recorded that a seated Yakushi Nyorai statue was enshrined in the West Hall, which is considered to be the seated Yakushi Nyorai statue currently enshrined in the three-story pagoda.
The idea that the seated Yakushi Nyorai statue was originally enshrined in the main hall and that the Twelve Heavenly Generals were also there at one time might refer to the West Hall.
The Twelve Heavenly Generals were dispersed and currently live separately in two locations in Tokyo.
It seems that the construction of the current main hall, the Amida-do, began around the same time.
In 1150, a monk from the Ichijo-in Genbetsu-to, one of the two major monzeki temples of Kofuku-ji, entered the temple and arranged the temple grounds and gardens until it returned to Kofuku-ji.
At this time, it became a branch temple of Kofuku-ji.
In 1157, the only existing 'Nine Seated Amida Buddha Statues @ National Treasure' were enshrined.
The Nine Seated Amida Buddha statues began in 1020 when Fujiwara no Michinaga enshrined them in his residence at Hojo-ji, and there seem to have been over 30 such sets nationwide, but excluding those from the Edo period onwards, this is the only one that exists today.
When you actually view the Nine Seated Amida Buddha statues, you can see that their facial expressions and shapes are slightly different; it is possible that the central statue was completed first, followed by the ones on the left and right, and they were created gradually, but there is no doubt they were made in the Heian period, and they must have cost a considerable amount of money and labor.
It seems that one statue other than the central one was repaired in the Kamakura period, but it is understandable that it is a National Treasure.
The Nine Seated Amida Buddha statues have a Kyoto flavor, while the National Treasure Four Heavenly Kings have a Nara flavor; this mixture of Kyoto and Nara in the same era is an interesting aspect of Minamiyamashiro, and it is what I like about it.
There are actually two standing Jizo Bosatsu statues without a khakkhara staff enshrined next to the principal image in the main hall, and one of them is enshrined at the Tokyo National Museum.
In 1178, a three-story pagoda was relocated from Ichijo-Omiya in Kyoto, and the seated Yakushi Nyorai statue from the time of the temple's founding was enshrined there.
The world of 'Pure Land,' as it appears today, was completed.
It seems that the seated Dainichi Nyorai statue in the Diamond Realm style was created around this time.
This seated Dainichi Nyorai statue may have been created by Kokei, the father of Unkei and a disciple of Jocho, the founder of the Kei school.
It is recorded that in 1212, the 'Standing Kichijoten Statue (Important Cultural Property)', which many consider the most beautiful Buddhist statue in Japan, was enshrined in the current main hall (from 'Joruri-ji Temple Records').
The 'Standing Fudo Myoo Statue (Important Cultural Property)', currently enshrined in the main hall, was the principal image of the Goma-do Hall in 1311.
The 1625 'Joruri-ji Temple Engi' notes that while there were 49 halls before the Onin War, they were reduced to one hall, one party, and one gate, so perhaps that is when it took its current form.
In 1666, the roof of the main hall seems to have been changed from cypress bark to ceramic tiles.
The Haibutsu Kishaku (anti-Buddhist movement) that occurred during the Meiji era's separation of Shinto and Buddhism did not cause as much damage as it did to Kofuku-ji Temple, but the temple became independent.
In 1874, it became a branch temple of Saidai-ji Temple.
By 1884, the Twelve Heavenly Generals had been lost twice.
An ink inscription suggesting it was made by Unkei was found on one statue, but subsequent restoration revealed it was made after Unkei's death. However, having seen the statues at the Unkei exhibition and the Minamiyamashiro exhibition, I think it is highly likely they are from the Kei school.
There is a theory that this Fudo Myoo was created by Unkei's son, Koen. Indeed, the attendant figures Seitaka Doji and Kongara Doji resemble the Eight Great Doji created by Unkei.
---↑Updated 2023/07/15
→How to visit
It is a 'Pure Land Garden' with a pond in between, separating the afterlife (Amida Nyorai in the main hall) from this world (Yakushi Nyorai in the five-story pagoda). It is the same as Byodo-in in Kyoto and Motsu-ji in Iwate.
The way to visit is to first go to the five-story pagoda, then visit the main hall, and finally walk around the pond. However, most people visit the main hall first.
→Viewing Buddhist statues
The 'Nine Amida Nyorai Statues (all National Treasures)', the only remaining Joroku and half-Joroku sized statues in Japan, are the best! Not only that, you can meet Buddhist statues that are all Important Cultural Properties or higher, such as the 'Four Heavenly Kings (National Treasure)', the representative beautiful statue 'Kichijoten (hidden Important Cultural Property)', and the 'Fudo Myoo Triad (Important Cultural Property)'. It is also a famous temple that people visit for the autumn leaves!
I discovered a 'manji' symbol on the chests of the far right and the third from the right of the Nine Amida Nyorai statues. I couldn't help but wonder if they might have come from a different temple.
→Main Hall @ National Treasure: Standing Four Heavenly Kings Statues @ National Treasure
The temple houses the "Jikokuten" and "Zochoten" within the main hall, but it is unfortunate that they are placed in the back in the shadows.
By the way, the "Komokuten" is deposited at the Tokyo National Museum, and the "Tamonten" at the Kyoto National Museum. You can see how wonderful they are if you look at them there!
They are comparable to the "Four Heavenly Kings Standing Statues" by Kaikei at Kimpusen-ji Temple in Yoshino, Nara. Personally, they look like the Kei school to me... I want to see them return home and view all four statues together someday.
The transition from the Heian period to the Kamakura period saw a shift toward realistic Buddhist statues, and since these were made during that transitional period, they are said to possess the best qualities of both. Also, although it is dark and hard to see, the "Joruri-ji pattern" is a point of interest.
---↓Updated 2023/07/15
The Nine Seated Amida Nyorai statues are housed in the main hall, but since they are large, it is possible they were housed in other halls.
I mentioned earlier that they only look like the Kei school, but since they were made in the Heian period, it would be more accurate to say they are the heavenly beings that lead to the Kei school. The Seated Amida Nyorai statues follow the style of Byodo-in in Kyoto, but the Four Heavenly Kings made in the same period have a style closer to Nara than Kyoto, meaning a collection of Buddhist statues that are a mix of the ancient capital of Nara and the ancient capital of Kyoto are gathered here.
---↑Updated 2023/07/15
→Main Hall @ National Treasure: Nine Seated Amida Nyorai Statues @ All National Treasures
This is the only place where a Nine-Body Amida Hall, which was built in large numbers in the mid-Heian period, remains. I can't help but suspect that Sanjusangen-do might have taken a hint from this place.
This Amida Hall seems to be designed to view the principal image from the other side of the pond, and it is said to be exquisite when the setting sun sinks directly behind the hall. However, since the faces of the Buddhist statues are above the shoji screens of the hall, it is also said that they might have worshipped the statues using the reflection in the pond.
*They have been undergoing sequential restoration for 5 years starting from 2018.
It is said to be the first time in 100 years...
It is said that nine-body Amida statues were housed in many temples during the Heian period, but this is the only place where the only existing "Nine Seated Amida Nyorai Statues @ National Treasure" of Jo-roku and Han-jo-roku size remain. It is believed that the Buddhist sculptors were different because there are slight individual characteristics, such as the swastika mark on the chest only on the far right and the third from the right.
Of the nine statues, the central statue is in the Ge-bon Jo-sho mudra (Raigo mudra), a style for when coming to welcome, while the others are in the Jo-bon Jo-sho mudra (Jo-in mudra), a style indicating the Pure Land, which is also said to express welcoming the deceased and sending them to the Pure Land.
It is said that they were housed in many temples during the Heian period, but this is the only place where the only existing "Nine Seated Amida Nyorai Statues @ National Treasure" of Jo-roku and Han-jo-roku size remain. The far right and the third from the right have a swastika mark on their chests.
The chief priest came to the hall, so I asked him a question.
●Question 1
"Is there any meaning to the presence or absence of the swastika? (In my heart, I wonder if they are actually from different eras??)"
Answer: "It is not strange for it to exist as a style, but I do not know the reason for its presence or absence."
2023/07/15 "Minamiyamashiro Exhibition"
Two statues were on display. As expected, the impact is different compared to viewing all nine statues together, but it was good to be able to view them 360 degrees.
https://note.com/yanma_travel/n/nb64d84d5f412
→Main Hall @ National Treasure: Standing Statue of Kisshotennyo @ Important Cultural Property
Kisshoten shines inside a zushi (shrine) to the left of the central principal image of the Nine Seated Amida Nyorai @ National Treasure. She is so beautiful that it feels like the decorations have remained almost exactly as they were, and she has beautiful, fair skin. Honestly, when I first saw her, I felt a bit unsure, but she is a special heavenly being whose goodness increases every time I see her.
She was a popular spot at the Saidai-ji Temple exhibition held at Abeno Harukas (see the Buddhist statue exhibition mentioned later). Usually, she is protected in a zushi in the dark main hall, looking up from slightly in front of the center of the Nine Amida Nyorai, but I was able to see her 360 degrees at eye level. I was surprised by the fine craftsmanship, and the coloring and drapery are also wonderful.
This is because she was protected in a zushi for a long time, so her preservation state is good, and she is a Buddhist statue that Ken Domon and Yasunari Kawabata praised as a beauty, and even now, she has many fans.
2023/07/15 "Minamiyamashiro Exhibition"
A Buddhist statue with a beautiful appearance and wonderful coloring. Along with the hemp cloth colored Kisshoten statue at Yakushi-ji Temple in Nara, she is one of the leading Kisshoten statues in our country.
There are rumors that she was made by Kaikei, but there is also a possibility that she is the Taishakuten made by Unkei at Takiyama-ji Temple in Aichi.
→Main Hall @ National Treasure: Standing Statue of Koyasu Jizo Bosatsu @ Important Cultural Property
Her presence might be overshadowed by the central Seated Amida Nyorai and Kisshoten, but I noticed that the drapery is detailed and beautiful.
→Main Hall @ National Treasure: Standing Statue of Fudo Myoo and Two Attendants @ All Important Cultural Properties
The main hall ends with this triad. Wonderful! But I feel like many people overlook them because there are so many national treasures.
◆Wooden Standing Statue of Fudo Myoo and Two Attendants, Joruri-ji Temple (Nishiko, Kamo-cho)
The wooden standing statue of Fudo Myoo and two attendants was donated by Ryoshin of Ichijo-in, Kofuku-ji Temple, as the principal image when the Goma-do Hall was built in the first year of Ocho (1311), and is currently housed in the main hall. It is believed to be the work of Koen, a Buddhist sculptor of the Kei school, because it resembles the Fudo Hachidaidoji statues (Kannon-ji Temple, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo) by Koen, which were once at the former Uchiyama Eikyu-ji Temple in Tenri City, Nara Prefecture.
I have introduced many Buddhist statues in the main hall of Joruri-ji Temple so far, but it is rare in the whole country that the Buddhist statues housed in the National Treasure main hall (2 National Treasures, 3 Important Cultural Properties) have been carefully protected and passed down by Joruri-ji Temple and the local people for nearly 1000 years since its founding.
→ Three-story Pagoda @ National Treasure: Seated Yakushi Nyorai Statue @ Important Cultural Property
This pagoda is also a National Treasure, and on the 8th of every month, the Seated Yakushi Nyorai statue (Important Cultural Property) enshrined within the pagoda is open to the public (however, it is canceled in case of rain). It attracted attention when it was exhibited at the "Saidai-ji Temple Exhibition @ Yamaguchi" in 2017, but it is better to see it at the pagoda. By the way, there is a similar Yakushi Nyorai at the nearby Nanmyo-ji Temple, and I personally call this type of Yakushi Nyorai the "Joruri-ji Temple Style Yakushi Nyorai." I would love to see the Twelve Heavenly Generals of Joruri-ji Temple, which were split into two groups in the Kanto region, enshrined in the five-story pagoda someday. Buddhist statue lovers gather, right?
Actually, it seems that this Yakushi Nyorai was once enshrined in the Main Hall (National Treasure), and the "Twelve Heavenly Generals (Important Cultural Property)" were enshrined in front of it. Unfortunately, the Twelve Heavenly Generals are currently enshrined in two separate locations in the Kanto region, but in 2017, they were all gathered together for the first time in 42 years at the "Unkei" exhibition at the Tokyo National Museum!! I would love to see Team Yakushi (Yakushi Nyorai + Nikko and Gakko Bodhisattvas + Twelve Heavenly Generals) someday!! But where are they...?
2023/07/15 "Minamiyamashiro Exhibition"
Regarding the Seated Yakushi Nyorai statue, there seem to be two theories: one is that it is the principal image of Zuigan-ji Temple (Odawara, Tokyo) founded in 1013, and the other is that it was created at the time of the founding in 1047, as stated in the "Joruri-ji Temple Ryuki." If the former is correct, would the people associated with Zuigan-ji Temple feel like they have reclaimed it when the Twelve Heavenly Generals were dispersed?? It is quite an interesting story. However, I call the Seated Yakushi Nyorai statues of Nanmyo-ji Temple (which were not exhibited this time) and others "Minamiyamashiro Style Yakushi Nyorai (a coined term)" because they have a unique atmosphere, but I have some doubts, such as whether it spread all at once or if they brought Buddhist sculptors with them. Ultimately, even the exhibition catalog states that based on the production era and flow of the Seated Yakushi Nyorai statues in this region, it is more likely that it was created at the time of the founding in 1047. I agree!
https://note.com/yanma_travel/n/nb64d84d5f412
https://note.com/yanma_travel/n/nb64d84d5f412
Finally, this pagoda was relocated from within Kyoto City around 1178, and because it was relocated for fear of war, we can see the pagoda as it was at that time.
→ Kongo-style Seated Dainichi Nyorai Statue @ Important Cultural Property
I first saw this Buddhist statue at the "Buddhist Statues of Nara Saidai-ji Temple" exhibition held at Abeno Harukas. I wondered from afar, what is that? That Dainichi Nyorai? It had a mysterious atmosphere, and when I looked at the description, it said "Joruri-ji Temple," and I remember being surprised, thinking, "They were still hiding something like this!?" Although it was small, I felt its power. I think it is one of the top five Buddhist statue temples in Kyoto, but I felt like, "Are there still good Buddhist statues here!!" ---↓Updated 2023/07/15 In the 2023 "Minamiyamashiro Exhibition," it is explained that there is a possibility it was made by Kokei. If this is true, it is possible that Unkei and Kaikei created their Seated Dainichi Nyorai statues based on this statue. Well, I would like to compare them somewhere.
→ Seated Dainichi Nyorai Statue (2023/07/15 "Minamiyamashiro Exhibition")
There is a possibility that it was made by "Kokei," the head of the Kei school. If this was made by Kokei, it means it connects to the Kongo-kai style Seated Dainichi Nyorai statues made by the genius Buddhist sculptors Unkei and Kaikei. Why is it said to be made by Kokei? It is said so because it resembles the Kongo-kai style Seated Dainichi Nyorai statue in Shizuoka, which is a genuine work by Kokei.
https://note.com/yanma_travel/n/nb64d84d5f412
Actually, it seems that it is only opened to the public from January 8th to 10th every year.Avoid opened to the public. I didn't know that... ---↑Updated 2023/07/15
→ Twelve Heavenly Generals @ Important Cultural Property (Donated)
They have been donated to two locations in Tokyo. However, in the 2023 "Minamiyamashiro Exhibition," there was a photo from when they were dispersed. Were they sold...?
2017 "Unkei Exhibition" Kofuku-ji Temple Central Golden Hall Reconstruction Commemorative Special Exhibition "Unkei" ● At the Unkei exhibition,
the Twelve Heavenly Generals from Joruri-ji Temple were gathered for the first time in 42 years!! Like the Four Heavenly Kings of the nearby Kaijusen-ji Temple, they are small but powerful Twelve Heavenly Generals!!I assumed they were originally enshrined near the Yakushi Nyorai.
2023/07/15 'Minamiyamashiro Exhibition'
Next are the Twelve Heavenly Generals. They are a group of Buddhist statues that, despite having left the temple, are in good condition, with kirikane (gold leaf) and coloring still remaining. There was media information from the Meiji era claiming that the character 'Unkei' was found inside the womb, leading to speculation that they might be the work of Unkei. I see! That explains why they were exhibited at the 'Unkei Exhibition' at the Tokyo National Museum.
However, having seen the complete set of Twelve Heavenly Generals in 2017 and 2023, I did not think they were by Unkei. The coloring, crystal eyes, and expressions are wonderful, and they are certainly on par with or even superior to those at Shinyakushi-ji or Muro-ji temples, but I also thought they might not be from the Kei school.
A 2016 conservation repair revealed a date of 1228, which is after Unkei's death, so the theory that they were made by Unkei seems to have toned down. Therefore, I think there is a high possibility they are from the generation after Unkei and Kaikei. Since these Twelve Heavenly Generals resemble old books and Buddhist paintings from Daigo-ji Temple and others, it might be more likely that they are from Kaikei's workshop than Unkei's.
https://note.com/yanma_travel/n/nb64d84d5f412
2023/07/15 'Minamiyamashiro Exhibition'
Currently, the Twelve Heavenly General statues, which are separately owned by the Seikado Bunko Art Museum in Tokyo and the Tokyo National Museum, were enshrined at Joruri-ji Temple along with the Yakushi Nyorai statue from the Joruri-ji three-story pagoda until the Edo period. After that, all of the Twelve Heavenly Generals left the temple by around the 17th year of the Meiji era (1884), but this time, all 12 figures are returning home, likely for the first time. It has been a full 140 years.
●Question 3: I tried asking the head priest
'At the 2017 Unkei Exhibition, the Twelve Heavenly Generals (Important Cultural Property), which were the bodyguards of the Yakushi Nyorai Seated Statue (Important Cultural Property) here, were all exhibited together. Where were they enshrined in the past?'
Answer: 'It is said to be the Amida Hall. However, the arrangement (such as one row in front like at Muro-ji, the 360-degree rotating style of Shinyakushi-ji, or the common three-row style with six figures on each side) is unknown, and since no old documents remain, it is not clearly understood.'
2023/07/15 'Minamiyamashiro Exhibition'
The Twelve Heavenly General statues, which were enshrined at the temple until the Edo period and are now separately owned by the Tokyo National Museum and the Tokyo Seikado Bunko Art Museum, have returned home for the first time in 140 years. Joruri-ji Temple's head priest, Kosho Saeki, said, 'I am grateful that all 12 figures survived the difficulties and have gathered here. I hope you will take your time to look at their intricate expressions.'
https://www.nara-np.co.jp/news/20230712211535.html
→ Bato Kannon Standing Statue (Important Cultural Property) (Nara National Museum)
I have taken the liberty of calling this one of the three great Bato Kannon statues in Japan (my own designation).
There are many seated Bato Kannon statues, but this one is a standing statue. It is from the Kamakura period and still retains its color; although it has a wrathful face, it feels somewhat cute, making it 'scary-cute'.
It used to be exhibited at the Buddhist Statue Hall of the Nara National Museum, but... it has been back on display at the 'Butsuzo-kan' since around 2020!
2023/07/15 'Minamiyamashiro Exhibition' (Butsuzo-kan)
It is my favorite Bato Kannon standing statue. I have asked the head priest of Joruri-ji if it will ever return to the temple. It disappeared from the Butsuzo-kan for a while, but it has returned in recent years. It is truly a wonderful Bato Kannon.
https://note.com/yanma_travel/n/nb64d84d5f412
●Question 2: 'Will the Bato Kannon Standing Statue (Important Cultural Property) donated to the Nara National Museum ever return? (I am hoping for a surprise return while the Amida Nyorai is being restored)'
Answer: 'Basically, it is left on loan and will not return home. It has returned twice in the past.'
→ Twin-bodied Bishamonten Standing Statue
I saw this at the 'Bishamonten Exhibition' at the Nara National Museum. It is a very small but rare Buddhist statue where two Bishamonten figures are attached back-to-back. This is apparently called 'twin-bodied'.
→ Photos of the temple grounds
○ January, when it is frozen
○ Fresh green in May
○ Maybe around October
→ Finally, the approach!?
▼ Travelogue
▽ 2015
▽ 2016
▽ 2017
▽ 2018 *See Day 7
▼Buddhist Statue Exhibition
▽2017 Abeno Harukas, Yamaguchi Prefectural Museum of Art "Buddhist Statues of Nara Saidai-ji Temple"
The Kongo-kai style "Dainichi Nyorai" with visible wood grain was on display. Despite its small size, I felt its power. I consider this one of the top five Buddhist statue temples in Kyoto, but I was left thinking, 'Are there even more great Buddhist statues here?!'
▽2017 Tokyo National Museum "Unkei Exhibition"
▽2017 Kyoto National Museum "National Treasures"
▽2019 "Masterpieces Deposited at the Kyoto National Museum - Protecting Beauty, Conveying Beauty -"
In the "Buddhist and Shinto Statues of Kyoto" space, the "Standing Tamonten Statue @ National Treasure," one of the Four Heavenly Kings, was on display.
▽2020 Nara National Museum "Bishamonten: Guardian Deity of the North"
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