World Heritage Complete Guide: 'Enryaku-ji Temple, Mt. Hiei' Special Opening After 33 Years! Updates on First-Time Openings and More [Kyoto] [Shiga]

Comprising three areas—Toto, Saito, and Yokokawa—'Mt. Hiei Enryaku-ji' is a massive temple complex spanning both Kyoto and Shiga! Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine at the foot of the mountain was also originally part of Mt. Hiei, making this the center of prayer in Japan. However, it is also a fact that they possessed warrior monks and were a threat to power, sometimes leading to conflicts with those in authority...

'Mt. Hiei Enryaku-ji' is the head temple of the Tendai sect, founded in 788 by Dengyo Daishi Saicho. Like Mt. Koya, it is a comprehensive university of Buddhism, having produced figures such as Honen, founder of the Jodo sect; Eisai, founder of the Rinzai sect; Dogen, founder of the Soto sect; Shinran, founder of the Jodo Shinshu sect; and Nichiren, founder of the Nichiren sect. Located at the demon gate (northeast) of Heian-kyo, it is designed so that Mt. Hiei can be seen from any temple or shrine in Kyoto.
So, the idea that it is the demon gate of Heian-kyo! is actually a lie, as it existed even before that!

In 1994, it was registered as a World Heritage site as part of the 'Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto'!
Well, time to head home... that took a while... Hmm??

The temperature on the mountain is 5 to 6 degrees lower than at the base, so please be careful with your clothing. The autumn leaves are at their best from late October to November, and the spring cherry blossoms are from late April to around Golden Week in May.

For those who want to take their time exploring, staying at the 'Enryaku-ji Kaikan' in the Toto area might be a good idea.

Change History (*Search within the page by 2022/MM/DD )

• 2024/01/13 Added panel photos from the Mt. Hiei exhibition held at Kyoto Station (see '2023/10/30')

• 2022/11/20 Tsubaki-do & Eleven-faced Kannon first-time opening!

• 2022/05/16 Added from the TV program 'History Detective'.

• 2022/05/12 Added Kyoto National Museum 'Saicho and the Tendai Sect' exhibition

• 2021/12/25 First edition

Visit records... 2011, 2013, 2017, 2022.

▼History, etc.

• A sacred site of Japanese Buddhism with over 100 temple halls

• UNESCO World Heritage Site

• Spans Kyoto and Shiga, guarding the demon gate of Heian-kyo

• A place where legends of Japanese Buddhism trained

• It began in 788 when the Great Teacher Saicho built a small hermitage at the current site of the Konpon Chudo Hall.

• Saicho's teaching was that everyone can attain enlightenment (until then, Buddhism was seen as something to protect the state).

• The name Enryaku-ji was given after Saicho's death, taken from the era name 'Enryaku' during the reign of Emperor Kanmu.

• Enryaku-ji and the Konpon Chudo Hall were established to train monks to save people during times of famine.

• The temple was granted permission to establish a Kaidan-in (ordination platform) to confer the 'precepts' upon official monks.

• By the Kamakura period, it had grown to over 3,000 temples, but it had also become militarized.

• Retired Emperor Shirakawa famously described Mt. Hiei as 'something that does not go as I wish.'

• In 1571, Oda Nobunaga burned down Mt. Hiei.

• Afterward, it was restored by powerful figures such as Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Tokugawa Ieyasu, and Tokugawa Iemitsu.

• The 'Eternal Light of the Dharma,' which had never gone out as of 2022, is still being passed down today.

• Regarding the burning of Enryaku-ji on Mt. Hiei, the temple at that time had many corrupt monks who engaged in what we would now call financial businesses, and the warrior monks were said to have strength comparable to samurai. Perhaps it was their own fault for not devoting themselves to Buddhism? (Both now and in the past, there are people who use authority and power for bad purposes. Come to think of it, even modern monks drive luxury cars... (I'll refrain from saying more))

• Is the 'Eternal Light of the Dharma' actually extinguished!? However, because the flame was backed up at Yamadera in Yamagata, it has continued!! This feels unique to the Japanese concept of dividing spirits.

• In 2022, a miraculous Buddhist statue that escaped Nobunaga's burning was discovered... It's in such good condition...

▼HP

▼Access

4220 Sakamoto Honmachi, Otsu City, Shiga Prefecture

○ Cable Car Scenery

▼ Deities, Principal Images, and Attendants

*Refer to highlights

▼ Highlights

It is often said that it protects the demon gate (kimon) after the relocation of the capital to Heian-kyo, but since it was founded before that, this is an afterthought.
Why was it founded here? It was likely a sacred mountain that Saicho was familiar with since childhood.

• Mount Hiei is in Omi, Saicho's hometown

• A place of worship considered a sacred mountain where Oyamagui was enshrined as early as the Kojiki

• It was a sacred mountain before Saicho built his hermitage

• There was a temple built by the imperial vow of Emperor Tenji, and one theory suggests Saicho entered the mountain there

▽ The path from Oku-Hiei to Yokawa

The leaves begin to change color from late October.

▽Yokawa

The northernmost point of Mt. Hiei. Yokawa is centered around the Yokawa Chudo, which serves as the main hall. It is home to the Ganzan Daishi-do, the birthplace of omikuji (fortune slips). This is a famous spot for autumn leaves, but they have already fallen by late November.

→Yokawa: Ryugaike Benten and the Dragon God

→Yokawa: Sekizan-gu Shrine

→Yokawa: Yokawa Chudo

This is the central hall of Yokawa. It was founded in 848 by Jikaku Daishi, also known as Ennin. Although it burned down completely due to a lightning strike in the early Showa period, the principal image, the Sacred Kannon (Important Cultural Property), escaped the fire.

The Holy Kannon Bodhisattva, said to have been created by Jikaku Daishi, is enshrined as the principal image.

→ Yokawa: Ganzan Daishi-do Hall @ Important Cultural Property (Shiki-ko-do Hall)

　The Ganzan Daishi-do Hall is also said to be the site of the residence of Jie Daishi, also known as Ganzan Daishi or Ryogen.

It is said to be the site of the residence of Ryogen (Ganzan Daishi), also known as Jie Daishi.

▽ Mt. Hiei Mine-michi Restaurant 2022/11/20

▽ Saito (West Pagoda)

　I feel it is an area that coexists with nature.

From the parking lot to the temple grounds.

→ West Pagoda: Tsubaki-do Hall, Principal Image: Thousand-Armed Kannon Bodhisattva Statue *2022/11/20

A small hall surrounded by cedar trees down the slope of the West Pagoda. It was named 'Tsubaki-do' (Camellia Hall) because it is said that when Prince Shotoku climbed Mount Hiei long ago, he placed his 'camellia staff' here, and the camellia sprouted and grew large.

First public opening of the 'Tsubaki-do' associated with Prince Shotoku and its principal image, the 'Thousand-Armed Kannon Bodhisattva Statue'.

It appears as a hall of the West Pagoda in the 1275 'Asabasho' and is said to have been built by Prince Shotoku. It is listed as one of the three statues associated with Prince Shotoku, along with the six-armed Nyoirin Kannon of the Rokkaku-do, the four-armed silver Nyoirin Kannon of Tsubaki-do, and the two-armed sandalwood Nyoirin Kannon of Ishiyama-dera.
Tsubaki-do was originally called Anyo-do, and it was named 'Tsubaki-do' because when Prince Shotoku planted his staff there during his climb, it grew large and took root in the earth.
Although there are no records in ancient books dating back to the Heian period that Prince Shotoku climbed Mount Hiei, it may have been linked to him because there was a Nyoirin Kannon statue there.

　Beyond this point is a no-photography zone.

　In 1571, the Tsubaki-do Hall was destroyed by fire during Oda Nobunaga's siege of Mount Hiei, but the principal image was hidden at Mii-dera Temple. It was later rebuilt using salvaged materials from Mii-dera. Due to aging, it was rebuilt again in 1704, and a statue of Prince Shotoku is enshrined within the hall.

→Saito (Western Pagoda): Jogyo-do Hall, Hokke-do Hall @ Important Cultural Property (Ninai-do)

　Two identical halls connected by a corridor, commonly known as 'Benkei's Ninai-do' (Carrying Halls). The Jogyo-do is a training hall for chanting the Amida Sutra, and the Hokke-do for the Lotus Sutra. It is said to represent the unity of the Lotus Sutra and the Nembutsu.

A rare structure where symmetrical halls are connected by a corridor. On the left is the Jogyo-do Hall, and on the right is the Hokke-do Hall. Their respective principal images are the 'Amida Nyorai' and 'Fugen Bosatsu'. As they are not open to the public, their appearances remain unknown.

↑ The photo from first thing in the morning in 2017 has no people! As expected, you should plan to visit such tourist-oriented shrines and temples first thing in the morning!

Visiting the Jogyo-do Hall. Though we can't go inside...

Let's head to the Hokke-do Hall too. Even though we can't go inside... It's an Important Cultural Property!

Now, let's go to the Shaka-do Hall!

This is a place where training is still conducted, so please be quiet! Scenery along the path between the Saito area's Jogyo-do/Hokke-do (Ninai-do) and the Shaka-do Hall.

The left side after going down the stairs.

→ Shakado (Tenporin-do) @ Important Cultural Property

The main hall of the West Pagoda, also known as 'Tenporin-do'. Like the Hiryu Shrine (Nachi Falls) in Kumano, you go down the stairs to reach Shakado.

The current Shakado is the oldest existing building at Enryaku-ji. It was originally the Kondo (Main Hall) of Onjo-ji Temple (Miidera), but was relocated to the West Pagoda by Hideyoshi in 1595.

Shakado is the center of Hieizan Enryaku-ji's West Pagoda. Although officially called 'Tenporin-do', it came to be known as Shakado because its principal image is the 'Shaka Nyorai' created by Saicho. In commemoration of the 1000th memorial of the founder of the Kaihogyo practice, 'Soo Osho', the principal image is being opened to the public for the first time in 33 years!!

In 2017, the Shakado Hall was stylishly decorated as shown in the photo below. For details on the special opening, please refer to 'First time in 33 years! Special opening of the Shakado Hall's principal image & inner sanctuary worship!' described later.

It reminds me of Nachi Falls.

▽Toto (Great Lecture Hall, Konpon Chudo, Kaidan-in, Amida-do)

Located about 1 kilometer south of Saito. Toto is the birthplace of Enryaku-ji and is the area centered around the Konpon Chudo, which serves as the main hall. Those who love Mount Koya will likely enjoy this place.

→ Eastern Pagoda (Toto): Great Lecture Hall @ Important Cultural Property

　When you arrive at the Eastern Pagoda, first head to the 'Great Lecture Hall'!! When I peered toward the main deity from the left side of the Great Lecture Hall, I saw statues of Saicho and Prince Shotoku enshrined there. I didn't notice it last time, but what a new discovery!!

　This building was relocated from the Sanbutsu-do Hall at the foot of the mountain in Sakamoto. The main deity is Dainichi Nyorai, and the flanking attendants are Maitreya Bodhisattva and the Eleven-faced Kannon. To their left and right are wooden statues of the founders of the various Buddhist sects that trained on Mt. Hiei.
　There are Buddhist statues of legendary Japanese monks who trained here, such as Honen, Shinran, Nichiren, Dogen, and Eisai.

→ Bell Tower

→ Eastern Pagoda (Toto): Konpon Chudo Hall @ National Treasure & Corridor @ Important Cultural Property

　This is the main hall of Enryaku-ji Temple. The main deity is Yakushi Nyorai.

　The 'Konpon Chudo Hall @ National Treasure' is considered the most important building at Enryaku-ji, but it was under renovation in 2017 and 2022. Although it is under renovation, it is still open for viewing, and it is a hall that shares the same atmosphere as Kurama-dera Temple. No matter when you go, there are always people there truly conveying their wishes to the Buddhist statues.

　In 2017, there were two tour groups inside the Konpon Chudo Hall, so I viewed the statues carefully so as not to get in their way. Seeing this construction scene reminded me of the Shikinen Sengu (periodic rebuilding) of Izumo Taisha Shrine.
　At Kongo-ji Temple in Kawachinagano, Osaka, they spent 1.6 billion yen to repair the main hall and other structures, so seeing repair scenes like this makes it clear that it costs a lot of money. I saw on a TV program in 2021 that it was still under renovation, so please check the official website when you visit!

In front of the principal image is the "Eternal Light of the Dharma," which has been burning for 1,200 years. Strictly speaking, however, it has gone out. But then again, it hasn't!?

I am not sure if they anticipated it going out, but they divided the flame, so it continues to this day! Yes, I find the Japanese religious view that gods multiply and divide when their spirits are split to be fascinating! Yes! It is the eight million gods. It is no longer a monotheistic religion! I suppose one might say, "Oh, the humanity!"

It seems they will be renovating until 2026.

→ Monju-ro Gate @ Important Cultural Property *Added 2022/11/20

A steep slope! I thought going down would be hell! But it turns out there is actually a gentle staircase to the right. It is said to be the mountain gate of Enryaku-ji. That would mean this was likely the main approach in the old days.
At the same time, as the name suggests, it enshrines the Manjusri Bodhisattva.

→ Daishoin and Enryaku-ji Kaikan *Added 2022/11/20

Enryaku-ji Kaikan offers lodging, shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), and ascetic training experiences. When I went in 2022, there were groups from travel tours that frequently run secret Buddha tours.

→Toto (Eastern Pagoda): Kaidan-in Temple

Despite the area being called Toto, I feel that few people come to Toto. Kaidan-in is located on the way to Toto. Nara's Todai-ji Temple has a Kaidan-do Hall, which is famous as an important place for conferring precepts to monks and for its famous Four Heavenly Kings. Enryaku-ji Temple has one too. Although Toto is the destination, looking at the entire temple complex reminds me of Mt. Koya.

→Shusse Daikokuten-do Hall, Mannen-do Hall

Speaking of 'Shusse' (success in life), it's Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Daikokuten, Bishamonten, and Benzaiten combined! That is the Three-Faced Shusse Daikokuten!

→ Eastern Pagoda: Amida-do Hall, Hokke Soji-in Eastern Pagoda

Next to the left of the Great Lecture Hall are the Amida-do Hall, where ancestors are memorialized, and the Hokke Soji-in Eastern Pagoda, where Buddha relics and the Lotus Sutra are enshrined.

The principal image is a life-sized Amida Nyorai. There is a suikinkutsu (water harp cave) in front of the hall.

The principal image of the Hokke Soji-in Eastern Pagoda is the Gochi Nyorai (Five Wisdom Buddhas), and it is said that Buddha relics and the Lotus Sutra are enshrined in the upper part of the pagoda.

→ Eastern Pagoda: National Treasure Hall

Photos are also posted on the official website, so please check it out!

The Kosei region is home to many famous ancient temples such as Mii-dera, Ishiyama-dera, Saikyo-ji, and Enryaku-ji. If you are visiting this area, be sure to check out the Otsu City Museum of History. In their individual Buddhist statue exhibits, they quietly display statues by Kaikei, Gyo-kai, and Higo Jokei.

〇 Entrance: Seated Statue of Shaka Nyorai
At the entrance is a Heian-period seated statue of Shaka Nyorai, which was originally handed down from Yokawa Ryozan-in and was rescued by a monk during Oda Nobunaga's siege in 1571.

〇 Seated Statue of Yakushi Nyorai @ Important Cultural Property × Bonten × Taishakuten × Twelve Heavenly Generals
A Heian-period seated statue of Yakushi Nyorai, with Kamakura-period Bonten and Taishakuten as attendants, and the Twelve Heavenly Generals in front. The Twelve Heavenly Generals are small like those at Muro-ji or Ninna-ji, but they are powerful and retain good traces of their original coloring.

〇 Standing Statue of Senju Kannon @ Important Cultural Property, Standing Statue of Bishamonten @ Important Cultural Property, Standing Statue of Fudo Myoo @ Important Cultural Property
An interesting triad format, but from what I recall seeing occasionally, it might be a triad originating from Hieizan.

〇 Five Great Myoo @ Important Cultural Property, Seitaka Doji @ Important Cultural Property, Kongara Doji @ Important Cultural Property
At a glance, these are such magnificent Buddhist statues that they make you wonder if they are by Unkei! Since they date to the 13th century, I feel certain they are from the Unkei workshop or by his disciples. I cannot prove it, though.

〇 2022/11/20

▼Shoho-ji Temple *Not yet visited

　As stated on the official website, it is still a temple associated with Mount Hiei.

　I am writing this because I saw it at a Buddhist statue exhibition. The Kakebotoke (hanging Buddhist image) of the main deity, the Seated Thousand-Armed Kannon, was on display. When the main deity is a hidden Buddha, there is often a Kakebotoke visible when looking up at the center of the hall. Next, the 'Standing Two Heavenly Kings' who protect the main deity appeared; it is thought that the Four Heavenly Kings protected the main deity. And from the 'Standing Taishakuten (Indra) @ Important Cultural Property,' I think it is a temple that was modeled after the Yokawa Chudo of Enryaku-ji. What is at Enryaku-ji but not here is the main deity itself.

▼For the first time in 33 years! Special opening of the Shakado main deity and inner sanctuary visit!

　A separate fee of 500 yen per person is required to visit the inner sanctuary.　As shown in the guide map in the photo, it retains elements of Shinbutsu-shugo (syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism). Once you enter the inner sanctuary, first look at the Shakyamuni Triad from a distance. It is hard to see near the exit due to pillars and such, so it is better to view it with opera glasses from the entrance.　Next, the Jikokuten (Dhritarashtra) is a piece that you would be convinced was made by the Kei school, so it is worth seeing. Following that, the Manjushri Bodhisattva is enshrined, and the local deities (though they looked like Shinto statues) of Ise, Sanno (Hiyoshi), Kamo, Kashima, Gion (Susanoo), and Atsuta are enshrined in a shrine, but since it is small and dark, it is better to bring opera glasses and a penlight.

　In the back, Bonten (Brahma) and Taishakuten (Indra) are enshrined, and behind the Shumi-dan (altar) were the Fudo Myoo and (presumably) the front-facing statue of the hidden Buddha. And on the right side of the inner sanctuary, a shrine appears, with a monkey deity enshrined in the center.

Speaking of 'monkey deities,' that would be the partner shrine from the Shinbutsu-shugo era, 'Hiyoshi Taisha.' It is written as 'Monkey God' and read as 'Masaru'! That's amazing! Masaru-san!?

▼Places to visit as a set (▼Travelogues)

▼Buddhist Statue Exhibition

▽2022 Kyoto National Museum 'Special Exhibition Commemorating the 1200th Memorial of Dengyo Daishi: Saicho and All of the Tendai Sect'

▽2020 Otsu City Museum of History: 30th Anniversary Exhibition 'Shoju Raigo-ji and Shoan-ji: Shrines and Temples of Shimosakamoto Associated with Akechi Mitsuhide'

　In the Sakamoto area at the foot of Mount Hiei, there are many shrines and temples such as Enryaku-ji, Hiyoshi Taisha, and Mii-dera, but 'Shoju Raigo-ji,' also known as the Shosoin of Omi, houses many national treasures and important cultural properties, including the famous 'Rokudo-e (Paintings of the Six Realms) @ National Treasure.' The Rokudo-e returned home for the first time in 36 years from Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, and Nara. And the Tendai Shinsei sect's 'Shoan-ji' preserves masterpieces such as the Standing Eleven-Faced Kannon, which represents Omi.

▽2021: Prince Shotoku Exhibition

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