A Journey of Vessels - Hagi -

Hagi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture.
Located on the Sea of Japan side of Yamaguchi Prefecture, the city's history as a castle town began when Mori Terumoto, who sided with the Western Army in the Battle of Sekigahara, was relocated to this more inconvenient land following his forfeiture of territory.

Because it was spared from air raids during the war, the townscape from the Edo period has been preserved, giving one the feeling of having slipped back in time.
The atmosphere of the entire town is simply wonderful.

Speaking of Hagi, it was also the stage for the Sonno Joi (Revere the Emperor, Expel the Barbarians) movement of the Choshu Domain at the end of the Edo period.
It is a treasure trove of historical sites, including the birthplace of Takasugi Shinsaku, Yoshida Shoin's Shoka Sonjuku academy, and places associated with the Mori family. I almost forget about the pottery...

Now, back to the subject of pottery.
The history of Hagi ware dates back to when Mori Terumoto brought potters back from Korea during Toyotomi Hideyoshi's invasions of Korea.

Hagi ware is made primarily from white clay found in the southern part of Yamaguchi Prefecture, known as Daido clay, blended with iron-rich clays called Mishima clay and Kanpo clay. It remains a traditional production area where pieces are still fired in climbing kilns today.

Potteries are scattered throughout Hagi City.
Among them, the Higashi-Hagi Station area has many of the major potteries.

I rent a bicycle at Higashi-Hagi Station.
I visited the "Fusoan Miwa Kiln," a pottery with a 13-generation history located right near Shoin Shrine.
Visits require an advance reservation and are only available on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.

When I arrive at the scheduled time, I am called in from the wooden gate at the entrance.
Works by the 13th generation Miwa Kyusetsu are lined up in a gallery converted from a tea room.

The first thing that catches my eye is the price...
A price tag of 1.32 million yen. It seems the price range is one digit higher than I had imagined.

Told to "please, pick it up," I cautiously take the vessel in my hands.

They strike a block of clay with a wooden mallet. Then, they carve it with a rusted Japanese sword.
Then, they hollow out the inside according to the shape of the exterior.
They coat the clay with iron-rich Mishima clay, apply a white slip, and then fire it.

The style is no longer traditional Hagi ware.
While the raw materials are indeed Hagi soil, this is now contemporary art.

It is said that the teaching of the Miwa Kiln is that each generation is only passed down the instruction to always do something new. Creating a new style is what is required of each generation.
Tradition is not about continuing to do the same thing.

It was too expensive, so I couldn't buy any of the works...
But it was worth it just to see them.

I head to the sea by bicycle from the Miwa Kiln.

I eat a seafood bowl at a roadside station along the way.
Being on the Sea of Japan side, the freshness is outstanding.

It rained on and off that day, so I headed toward the kilns while taking shelter from the rain along the way.

The "Okada Kiln" I finally reached was, to my surprise, closed...

With the rain falling and likely almost no visitors coming anyway.
They just don't seem motivated.
This is the reality of regional potteries.

As the rain began to pour, I headed to the Senryuzan Kiln.
This is the kiln of the Hagi ware master, Yoshiga Taibi.

At the pottery, you can see the works of Taibi Yoshiga.

These works redefine the image of Hagi ware, and I found myself taking photos constantly.
Even in a traditional production area, those called masters transcend those boundaries.
It made me rethink what tradition really is.

In Hagi city, there is also a place where you can see ceramic works called the Hagi Uragami Museum.
Here, you can see the works of the 12th Miwa Kyusetsu (Ryukisho Miwa).

His style is completely different from that of the 13th generation.
At this point, even the very concept of 'ceramics' begins to feel uncertain.

Hagi.
It is the best place for fans of Ryotaro Shiba's novels.
The Hagi ware potteries are also extensive. It was definitely one of the top three pottery production areas, offering twice the enjoyment in one trip.

Highlights of Hagi

The city of Hagi is too large to explore on foot, so it is best to get around by bicycle.
You will want at least two days to explore the city, where the townscape of the Edo period remains, and the pottery area that stretches east from Higashi-Hagi Station.

Fusoan Miwa Kiln

Address: 2721 Tsubaki-higashi, Hagi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture

Taibi Yoshiga Memorial Museum

Address: 10426-1 Tsubaki-higashi, Hagi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture

Yamaguchi Prefectural Hagi Art Museum, Uragami Memorial

Address: 586-1 Hiyako-cho, Hagi City, Yamaguchi Prefecture