Travel Sentiment Zone: Hagi, the Patriots, and Autumn Rain

Hagi: Memories of Patriots and Earth Dissolving in the Sound of Rain

Introduction: Arriving in Hagi in the Autumn Rain

As the bus from Shin-Yamaguchi Station swayed along, the colors of autumn grew deeper with every tunnel we passed through. When Taizo stepped into the town of Hagi, the sky hung low, and as forecast, heavy rain was drumming against the asphalt.

Usually, one might slump their shoulders at such 'unfortunate weather,' but for the castle town of Hagi, it is a slightly different story. The rainwater dripping from the eaves seemed to highlight the whiteness of the black gates and earthen walls, isolating the era when the patriots of the Meiji Restoration ran through these streets from the hustle and bustle of the modern day.

1. The Silence of Shoin Shrine and the Inherited Passion

The first place I headed to was the Yoshida Shoin Shrine. As the sound of rain hitting my umbrella intensified, the shrine grounds were surprisingly still. Looking at the small wooden schoolhouse of the Shoka Sonjuku, the rain-drenched veranda shone with a dull luster.

'Gentlemen, go mad.'

I felt as if I could hear Master Shoin's words mixed in with the sound of the rain. From this space of only a few tatami mats, young people who would change the future of Japan rushed out one after another. Gazing at the schoolhouse shrouded in rain, Taizo pondered the fervent ambitions held by the youth of that time. The heavy rain, like a filter trapping their struggles and passions of the past, reflected the current scenery in a dense, vivid way.

2. Hagi-yaki: Warmth Born from Mud

I stopped by a long-standing Hagi-yaki pottery kiln to take shelter from the rain. Stepping inside the shop, a space filled with the warmth of earth spread out, contrasting with the chilly outside air.

'Hagi-yaki is something you enjoy as it transforms.'

The shopkeeper taught me that. As you use it, tea stains seep in, and the hue changes. It is not finished when it is made; it is a vessel that grows alongside the person who uses it. Taizo chose a pale loquat-colored teacup that fit perfectly in his hand. The soft texture of the clay felt comforting against his fingertips, which had grown slightly cold from the heavy rain.

Outside, it is still pouring, but looking at this vessel, it is strange how the silence of a rainy day begins to feel like a necessary time for something to mature.

3. Hagi Honjin: To the Open-Air Bath with a Superb View

In the evening, I headed to tonight's lodging, Hagi Honjin. The pride of this place is its own hot spring source gushing from 2,000 meters underground, and above all, its view.

Taizo immediately headed to the open-air bath he had been looking forward to. An open-air bath in the middle of heavy rain—it was a luxurious experience that could not be savored on a clear day.

As I soaked in the tub, hot steam enveloped my face. Before me spread the townscape of Hagi blurred by rain and the view stretching out to the distant Sea of Japan. Heavy raindrops hit the surface of the water, creating countless ripples. The cold rain hit my face, while everything from the neck down was warmed to the core. That contrast sharpened my senses.

'What a magnificent view...'

The words escaped me involuntarily. The deep green of the mountains visible for just a fleeting moment through a gap in the rain clouds. The cold wind that made me feel the deepening of autumn. Feeling the fury and the blessings of nature on his skin at the same time, Taizo immersed himself in the sensation of all the sediment of daily life being washed away.

Conclusion: Rain Connecting Yesterday and Today

After dinner, I gaze out from my room's window at the Hagi streets dampened by the rain. I slowly sip tea from the Hagi-yaki teacup I bought earlier today. The vision of Japan that Shoin Yoshida dreamed of, the prayers artisans poured into the clay, and the quiet sense of exhilaration Taizo feels in this place right now.

It was precisely because of the heavy rain that Taizo was able to touch the 'depth' of this town. The gleam of the cobblestones and the vividness of the autumn leaves wet with rain are things that might be overlooked during a sightseeing trip on a sunny day.

The journey to Hagi is more than just sightseeing. It was a time to cherish the aspirations passed down through time and the ever-changing beauty. The sound of the rain outside might stop by tomorrow. However, the warmth felt in this rain has been carved deeply into Taizo's heart, much like the crackle glaze of Hagi-yaki.

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