Buildings from the Japanese Colonial Period Remaining in Taiwan 1

Taiwan is a popular travel destination. It is where I live. If you are going to the trouble of visiting Taiwan, I would like to introduce a way to enjoy it beyond just gourmet food, B-grade street food, night markets, fortune-telling, or massages: a walking tour of buildings from the Japanese colonial period. This time, we will start from the area around NTU Hospital Station on the Taipei MRT Tamsui-Xinyi Line. There are surprisingly many buildings with an atmosphere similar to Tokyo Station. This is no coincidence, as they were designed by students of Kingo Tatsuno, who designed Tokyo Station.

A brief history of Taiwan

By the way, before introducing the buildings, let me tell you a little bit about history. You might have studied this in world history class a long time ago. Or, for many who took world history, the class might have ended before you reached this part. However, reviewing history is important for understanding Taiwan.

In April 1895, Japan, having won the First Sino-Japanese War, signed the Treaty of Shimonoseki in the same month, ceding Taiwan and the Penghu Islands from the Qing Dynasty. Based on this treaty, Japan established the Governor-General's Office in Taiwan in June. From there, Japan's rule over Taiwan began in earnest. This rule ended in August 1945 with the conclusion of the Second Sino-Japanese War following Japan's unconditional surrender. Afterward, the Chinese Civil War between the Kuomintang and the Communist Party of China intensified on the Chinese mainland, leading to the establishment of the People's Republic of China. The defeated Kuomintang faction fled to Taiwan and called itself the Republic of China.

The history of the People's Republic of China began after the Second Sino-Japanese War. This means that, historically, Taiwan has never once been the same country as the People's Republic of China.

National Taiwan University Hospital Annex (Taihoku Imperial University Hospital)

Address: No. 1, Changde St, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City
Access: 0-minute walk from NTU Hospital Station on the Taipei MRT Tamsui-Xinyi Line
Official Website: https://www.ntuh.gov.tw/IMSC-jp/Index.action

During the Japanese colonial period, Taiwan had Taihoku Imperial University, one of Japan's former imperial universities. It is the predecessor to the current National Taiwan University. The former Taihoku Imperial University Hospital has been passed down as the National Taiwan University Hospital, building and all. It is located right in front of Exit 2 of the NTU Hospital Station on the Taipei MRT Tamsui-Xinyi Line.

This building was designed by Juro Kondo, an engineer for the Governor-General of Taiwan, and was completed in 1924. Juro Kondo was involved in the design of several other buildings in Taiwan. Among them, the NTU Hospital Annex is considered one of his representative works.

Part of the hospital building, such as the lobby, is open to the public, but since it is used as a hospital, it is better to limit your visit to viewing the exterior.

Office of the President (Taiwan Governor-General's Office)

Address: No. 122, Section 1, Chongqing South Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City
Access: About a 6-minute walk from NTU Hospital Station on the Taipei MRT Tamsui-Xinyi Line
Official Website: https://www.president.gov.tw/

In June 1895, the Governor-General's Office was established in Taiwan, and later, in 1919, the red-brick building that serves as the current Office of the President of Taiwan (equivalent to the Prime Minister's Official Residence in Japan), the Taiwan Governor-General's Office building, was completed. At the time, it was the tallest red-brick building not only in Taiwan under Japanese rule but also in Japan itself. It was designed by architect Uheiji Nagano. Many people think the atmosphere of the Office of the President of Taiwan is somewhat similar to Tokyo Station. This is no coincidence, as Uheiji Nagano was one of the students of Kingo Tatsuno, who designed Tokyo Station.

Many buildings designed by Uheiji Nagano remain in Japan. Famous examples include the Bank of Japan Head Office, Kyoto Branch, and Osaka Branch, which are designated as Important Cultural Properties, as well as the former Mitsui Bank Shimonoseki Branch, now used as the Yamaguchi Bank Annex, and the former Hokkaido Bank Head Office (a different company from the current Hokkaido Bank), now used as the Hokkaido Chuo Bus Head Office building.

Part of the first floor of the Office of the President of Taiwan is open to the public on weekday mornings. No reservation is required for this tour, but a passport is required as identification. Also, although irregular, there are days when the entire building is open for viewing all day. The schedule is published on the official website of the Office of the President. Reservations are also possible for groups of 15 or more.

Taipei First Girls High School

Address: No. 165, Section 1, Chongqing South Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City
Access: About an 8-minute walk from NTU Hospital Station on the Taipei MRT Tamsui-Xinyi Line
Official Website: https://www.fg.tp.edu.tw/

The education system in Taiwan consists of compulsory education comprising 6 years of elementary school and 3 years of junior high school, followed by senior high school or senior vocational school, which correspond to Japanese high schools, and then university. Prestigious senior high schools in Taiwan include the boys' school Jianguo High School in Taipei, the girls' school Taipei First Girls High School, and co-educational schools such as the Affiliated Senior High School of National Taiwan Normal University and the Affiliated Senior High School of National Chengchi University.

Among these, the most difficult senior high schools to enter in Taiwan are said to be the boys' school Jianguo High School and the girls' school Taipei First Girls High School. These two schools were formerly Taipei First Middle School and Taipei First Girls' High School. At that time in Taiwan, there was a ranking system for schools, and schools with 'First' or 'Second' in their names were accessible to excellent Japanese students and a small number of excellent and wealthy Taiwanese students. However, it is said that many excellent Taiwanese students were only able to get into the 'Third' schools.

Continuing to be the most difficult 'First' school to enter in Taiwan, just as it was during the Japanese colonial period, is Taipei First Girls High School, commonly known as 'Bei Yi Nu'. Its school building is located a one-minute walk from the Presidential Office Building, right under one's nose. The school building has been renovated and continues to be used from the Japanese colonial period. As it is a girls' school and an educational institution, it can only be viewed from the outside.

Taipei Guest House (Former Taiwan Governor-General's Residence)

Address: No. 1, Ketagalan Blvd, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City
Access: About a 5-minute walk from NTU Hospital Station on the Taipei MRT Tamsui-Xinyi Line
Official Website: https://subsite.mofa.gov.tw/tgh/

The Taipei Guest House, currently used as Taiwan's state guest house, was formerly the residence of the Governor-General of Taiwan. Completed in 1901, it was designed by Togo Fukuda, an engineer for the Taiwan Governor-General's Office, and Ichiro Nomura and Rin Miyao, who also designed the National Taiwan Museum. However, this building suffered termite damage and was rebuilt in 1911. The design for the reconstruction was handled by Matsunosuke Moriyama, a disciple of Kingo Tatsuno. It was designated as a national historic site in 1998.

The Taipei Guest House was not open to the public, but it has been open to the general public since 2006. It is open once a month and no reservation is required. You can check the opening dates on the official website.

Bank of Taiwan Head Office

Address: No. 120, Section 1, Chongqing South Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City
Access: About a 6-minute walk from NTU Hospital Station on the Taipei MRT Tamsui-Xinyi Line
Official Website: https://www.bot.com.tw/tw/personal-banking

The Bank of Taiwan, which was a special bank, commercial bank, and central bank capable of issuing currency during the Japanese colonial period, continued its operations as is after the war. Following subsequent organizational reforms, it is now a state-owned bank. The building used by the Bank of Taiwan as its head office was also used as its head office under the same name during the Japanese colonial period.

This building was designed by architect Yoshitoki Nishimura, who worked on numerous bank buildings, and was completed in 1938. Since Yoshitoki Nishimura also served as the head of the construction department at the First Bank, buildings he designed during that era remain in Japan as well. Representative examples include the former First Bank Nishijin Branch, which is currently used as the building for the Kyoto Bank Nishijin Branch, and the former First Bank Yokohama Branch, which was used as the YCC Yokohama Creative City Center until March 2020.

Judicial Building (Taiwan Governor-General's High Court)

Address: No. 120, Section 1, Chongqing South Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City
Access: About a 6-minute walk from NTU Hospital Station on the Taipei MRT Tamsui-Xinyi Line
Official Website: https://www.tph.moj.gov.tw/4421/4543/4589/29720/

The highest judicial institution in Taiwan is the Judicial Yuan, which has functions equivalent to the Supreme Court of Japan. The Judicial Building, where the Judicial Yuan is located, was a building that housed the Taiwan Governor-General's High Court, the Taipei District Court, and the Prosecutor's Office during the Japanese colonial period.

The design was by Kaoru Ide, a disciple of Kingo Tatsuno, who designed many historical buildings including Tokyo Station, and who was the head of the Construction Section of the Taiwan Governor-General's Office. It was completed in 1934. Currently, this building is designated as a national historic site.

During the Japanese colonial period, it only had three floors, but after the war, a fourth floor was added. Kaoru Ide also worked on the designs for the Taipei City Public Hall (currently Zhongshan Hall) and the Taipei City Hall (currently the Executive Yuan building).

Taiwan Tobacco and Liquor Corporation Headquarters (Taiwan Governor-General's Monopoly Bureau Building)

Address: No. 4, Section 1, Nanchang Rd, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City
Access: About a 5-minute walk from Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Station on the Taipei MRT Tamsui-Xinyi Line/Songshan-Xindian Line
Official Website: https://www.ttl.com.tw/

The building, which served as the headquarters for the Monopoly Bureau handling alcohol, tobacco, and salt during the Japanese colonial period, is currently used as the headquarters for the Taiwan Tobacco and Liquor Corporation. Completed in 1922, it is now a national historic site.

As can be seen from its appearance, which resembles other structures from the Japanese colonial period remaining in Taiwan, this building was designed by architect Matsunosuke Moriyama, one of Kingo Tatsuno's students. Other buildings in Taiwan designed by Matsunosuke Moriyama include parts of the Office of the Governor-General of Taiwan and the Taipei Guest House. In Japan, he is famous for the Taiwan Pavilion at Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden and the Katakurakan Hall bathhouse and corridor in Suwa City, Nagano Prefecture, which are designated Important Cultural Properties.

National Taiwan University Gallery of University History (Taihoku Imperial University Library)

Address: No. 1, Section 4, Roosevelt Rd, Da'an District, Taipei City
Access: 0-minute walk from Gongguan Station on the Taipei MRT Songshan-Xindian Line
Official Website: https://www.ntu.edu.tw/

In the past, Japan had higher education institutions known as Imperial Universities. There were nine such universities in total that were considered Japan's top-tier institutions at the time: the seven that are now national universities in Japan (Hokkaido, Tohoku, Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka, Kyoto, and Kyushu), plus two that were under Japanese colonial rule (Keijo/Seoul in Korea and Taihoku/Taipei in Taiwan).

The former Taihoku Imperial University became the National Taiwan University after the war, which is currently the top university in the country. The main campus of National Taiwan University is located right outside Exit 3 of the MRT Gongguan Station. Like the seven Imperial Universities in Japan, buildings from the Taihoku Imperial University era remain on the grounds and are still used as school buildings today. Although there is a guard standing at the gate, tourists are allowed to enter. Since the campus is too large to walk around, it is better to rent a bicycle from the YouBike station in front of Gongguan Station.

The "Gallery of University History" on campus is a building that was used as a library during the Taihoku Imperial University era. This building was designed by Kaoru Ide, head of the Construction and Repairs Section of the Office of the Governor-General of Taiwan, and was completed in 1930. It is now a municipal historic site. The history of the school and materials from the Taihoku Imperial University era are on display. Among the exhibits are unique items such as the elective course schedule of former President Lee Teng-hui.

Jinzhen-cho Japanese-style Dormitory Complex (Former Staff Dormitories for the Forestry Division of the Office of the Governor-General of Taiwan, etc.)

Address: No. 84, Jinhua St, Da'an District, Taipei City, etc.
Access: 5-minute walk from Guting Station on the Taipei MRT Songshan-Xindian Line
Official Website: https://go-taiwan.net/ikutabi/archives/11722

During the Japanese colonial period, many engineers played an active role in the agricultural development of Taiwan. The official residences where they lived were located in the Jinzhen-cho 6th Street area of Taipei (the current area around Jinhua Street and Hangzhou South Road Section 2 in Da'an District).

Part of the buildings that were used as official residences until a few years ago remained in an untouched, dilapidated state and were known as the "Jinzhen-cho Japanese-style Dormitory Complex." However, they were designated as historic buildings of Taipei City under Taiwan's Cultural Heritage Preservation Act. Through the "Old House Cultural Movement Project" of the Taipei City Government's Department of Cultural Affairs, some of them have undergone restoration work and are now tourist spots.

Songshan Cultural and Creative Park (Former Songshan Tobacco Factory of the Office of the Governor-General of Taiwan Monopoly Bureau)

Address: No. 133, Guangfu South Rd, Xinyi District, Taipei City
Access: 10-minute walk from Taipei City Hall Station on the Taipei MRT Bannan Line
Official Website: https://www.songshanculturalpark.org/

The Songshan Tobacco Factory of the Office of the Governor-General of Taiwan Monopoly Bureau was built in 1939 as Taiwan's first specialized tobacco factory. This factory is also known as the first modern factory in Taiwan. The facility included a nursery, accommodations, a bathhouse, and medical facilities.

After the war, the Taiwan government requisitioned this factory and turned it into the Taiwan Provincial Monopoly Bureau Songshan Tobacco Factory. Having produced cigarettes since before the war, the factory ended its role as a production facility in 1998 due to a decline in demand for domestic Taiwanese cigarettes. Subsequently, it was designated as a municipal historic site, and buildings such as the administrative office, factory, and warehouses were preserved.

This architecture has been renovated, and currently, the former machine repair shop is used as a commercial facility, while the former warehouse is used as an art gallery.

Huashan 1914 Creative Park (Taiwan Governor-General's Monopoly Bureau Taipei Wine Factory)

Address: No. 1, Section 1, Bade Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City, Taiwan
Access: 3-minute walk from Exit 1 of Zhongxiao Xinsheng Station on the Taipei MRT Bannan Line
Official Website: https://www.huashan1914.com/w/huashan1914/index

The Nippon Seishu sake factory, built in 1914, became the Taiwan Governor-General's Monopoly Bureau Taipei Wine Factory in 1922, and continued to be used after the war as the Taiwan Provincial Monopoly Bureau Taipei Wine Factory. The factory relocated in 1987 and was left abandoned for a time, but the factory buildings were later utilized as a museum for industrial architectural technology. Furthermore, since 1999, it has become a popular spot where various art and cultural events are held, much like the Songshan Cultural and Creative Park.

National Taiwan Museum (Museum of the Taiwan Governor-General's Civil Affairs Department, Bureau of Productive Industries)

Address: No. 2, Xiangyang Road, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City
Access: 8-minute walk from Taiwan Railways Taipei Station
Official Website: https://www.ntm.gov.tw/jp/

The National Taiwan Museum is a large Greek-style building facing 228 Peace Memorial Park. This building was originally constructed in 1908 as the Museum of the Taiwan Governor-General's Civil Affairs Department, Bureau of Productive Industries, to commemorate the achievements of former Governor-General Gentaro Kodama and former Civil Affairs Chief Shimpei Goto, who left their posts in 1906.

It was designed by Ichiro Nomura, a technician and section chief of the Construction Section of the Taiwan Governor-General's Civil Affairs Department, who was also one of the designers of the Taipei Guest House (the former Taiwan Governor-General's residence), along with technician Eiichi Araki. Construction supervision was handled by Juro Kondo, a technician from the Construction Section who also designed the National Taiwan University Hospital. Both the exterior and interior are European in style, and the ceiling of the central hall features stained glass. There is nothing Japanese about it at all.

Two large bronze statues of cows are placed on the left and right sides of the main entrance. These two statues were once dedicated to the Taiwan Grand Shrine (the site is now the Grand Hotel).