Vitamin C vs. Retinol | Which one should you choose for dark spots, pores, and wrinkles? Part 2 of the 'Choosing the Right Serum Based on Medical Research' series

In the morning, while looking in the mirror, I notice the faint dark spots on my cheeks and reach for my vitamin C serum.

At night, I notice the fine lines around my eyes and use retinol as well.

However, I suddenly find myself wondering:

Are both necessary? Or is one of them enough?

Serums are not cheap. If you add ingredients that don't suit your skin, it can lead to redness or dryness, which might make it harder to stick to your skincare routine.

In this article, we will break down three concerns: dark spots, pores, and wrinkles, and focus on systematic reviews and meta-analyses from 2023 onwards to determine whether vitamin C or retinol should be prioritized.

To start with the conclusion:

If you want to prioritize dark spots and dullness, start with vitamin C

If you want to prioritize fine lines and skin texture, choose retinol

is the general rule.

On the other hand, regarding pores, you should not have excessive expectations for either.

First of all, they work differently

While both vitamin C and retinol are used for anti-aging, they do not act on the skin in the same way.

Vitamin C has an antioxidant effect that suppresses oxidative stress caused by factors like UV rays. Furthermore, it is involved in the reactions necessary for collagen synthesis and the process of melanin production.

In contrast, retinol is a type of retinoid, which is a member of the vitamin A family. It is converted in stages within the skin and ultimately acts as retinoic acid to regulate epidermal cell turnover and reactions related to collagen.

Simply put, vitamin C is an ingredient that suppresses oxidative damage while improving skin tone, and retinol is an ingredient that works on skin renewal and structure.

For dark spots and dullness, start with vitamin C

If you prioritize dark spots and dullness, your first candidate is vitamin C.

A 2023 systematic review reported that topical vitamin C may improve uneven skin tone, photoaging, wrinkles, and melasma. However, because studies vary in terms of vitamin C type, concentration, combination treatments, and evaluation methods, the optimal formulation and concentration have not yet been determined [1].

Another systematic review published in the same year also examined the improvement of wrinkles using topical vitamin C products, but only 7 studies were included, and some products contained ingredients other than vitamin C. In other words, while effects can be expected, there is still uncertainty regarding the efficacy of vitamin C alone [2].

Furthermore, what we call "dark spots" includes various conditions, such as solar lentigines, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma.

A vitamin C serum alone will not erase all dark spots. If you notice changes such as asymmetrical shapes, sudden growth, uneven color, or bleeding, you should consult a dermatologist rather than relying on a beauty serum.

For those who want to gently improve daily dullness and uneven skin tone, vitamin C in the morning is an easy choice to incorporate.

Retinol takes the lead for fine lines

If your priority is wrinkles, especially fine lines around the eyes and forehead, retinoids are currently the most promising option in clinical research.

A 2024 systematic review examined 25 studies comparing tretinoin with other topical ingredients. While 7 studies found the comparison group superior to tretinoin, 13 found them to be comparable, and 3 found them inferior, most of the comparison ingredients tended to be less irritating and easier to use than tretinoin [3].

The tretinoin referred to here is medical-grade retinoic acid, which is not the same as the retinol found in over-the-counter cosmetics. However, this review demonstrates that retinoid ingredients are central to the treatment of photoaging.

Furthermore, a 2025 network meta-analysis examined 23 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) involving a total of 3,905 participants. The results showed that topical retinol, tretinoin, and topical isotretinoin improved fine lines compared to control groups. Retinol and tretinoin have also shown efficacy for hyperpigmentation [4].

However, there are differences in formulations, concentrations, participants, and evaluation methods between studies, and a lack of racial diversity and the potential for commercial bias have also been pointed out [4].

Therefore, it cannot be said that "all retinols work the same way." Nevertheless, if your main concerns are fine lines or skin texture, there is a stronger reason to prioritize retinol over vitamin C.

Which one works for pores?

This is the point most prone to misunderstanding.

Pores are not simply holes that open and close. They appear prominent due to a combination of factors, including sebum levels, keratin plugs, acne, loss of elasticity, hair thickness, and how light hits the skin.

Retinoids work on epidermal turnover, acne, and skin texture, which may result in pores becoming less noticeable. However, looking only at high-quality studies from 2023 onwards, there is insufficient evidence to conclude that over-the-counter retinol shrinks pores themselves.

Regarding vitamin C, some cosmetic studies have evaluated the appearance of pores, but since products often contain multiple ingredients, it is currently difficult to judge the effect of vitamin C alone [2].

Therefore, if your only goal is to address pores, it is better not to limit your choice to just vitamin C versus retinol.

The necessary measures change depending on whether the issue is related to sebum and acne, or if they are prominent due to dryness and loss of elasticity.

Conclusion by concern

If you are concerned about light uneven skin tone, dullness, and UV damage

Prioritize vitamin C in the morning. Follow with a moisturizer and sunscreen.

If you are concerned about fine lines, lack of firmness, and skin texture

Prioritize retinol at night. Start with a low concentration, about twice a week, and gradually increase the frequency if there is no redness or dryness.

If you are concerned about both dark spots and wrinkles

It is practical to use vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night. However, do not start both at the same time; try one for 2 to 4 weeks before adding the other, as this makes it easier to identify the cause of any irritation.

If pores are your biggest concern

Before adding more serums, re-evaluate whether sebum, acne, clogged pores, or dryness are involved. Be cautious of advertising claims that promise to permanently close or erase pores.

Ultimately, if you have to choose just one

For those whose main concern is uneven skin tone and who want to start with a low-irritation routine, vitamin C.

For those who want to seriously improve fine lines and skin texture, retinol.

This is the most practical way to choose at this moment.

However, regardless of which one you choose, sunscreen and moisturizing remain the foundation. You cannot expect sufficient results by just adding a serum without UV protection.

Also, retinoids can cause irritation, and those who are pregnant or planning to become pregnant should avoid using them as a precautionary measure. The European Medicines Agency also advises against the use of topical retinoids during pregnancy and for those planning to become pregnant [5].

What is important when choosing a beauty serum is not layering all the popular ingredients.

Decide on the one concern you most want to improve, and continue using an ingredient suited to that concern without irritation.

That is a much more rational choice than buying expensive serums one after another.

Next time, we will delve deeper into the contents of serums labeled 'vitamin C'.

What is the difference between pure vitamin C and vitamin C derivatives, and which one is actually the most effective?

We will examine this based on stability, skin penetration, irritation, and clinical research differences.
Click here for Part 3 ☟.

References

[1] Correia G, Magina S. Efficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: A systematic review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2023;22(7):1938-1945. doi:10.1111/jocd.15748.

[2] Sanabria B, Berger LE, Mohd H, et al. Clinical efficacy of topical vitamin C on the appearance of wrinkles: A systematic literature review. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology. 2023;22(9):898-904. doi:10.36849/JDD.7332.

[3] Siddiqui Z, Zufall A, Nash M, Rao D, Hirani R, Russo M. Comparing tretinoin to other topical therapies in the treatment of skin photoaging: A systematic review. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. 2024;25(6):873-890. doi:10.1007/s40257-024-00893-w.

[4] Lin L, Chen X, Liu C, Wang Q, Lian W, Xu X, et al. Comparative efficacy of topical interventions for facial photoaging: A network meta-analysis. Scientific Reports. 2025;15:26889. doi:10.1038/s41598-025-12597-0.

[5] European Medicines Agency. Updated measures for pregnancy prevention during retinoid use. 21 June 2018.