[Google Maps Remote Island Tour] #19 Nagasaki Edition: Hirado City Remote Islands (Azuchi-Oshima, Takushima, Takashima)

Hirado City Remote Islands

” Is it the breath of a whale, or a dream of the Edo period, that mingles with the scent of the tide? ”

■ Previous Remote Island Scroll

If you wish to view the previous travelogue, please proceed from here.

■ Remote Islands of Hirado City

Leaving the port of Hirado behind, as I rowed the oars and surrendered myself to the sea breeze, three island silhouettes soon emerged—Azuchi-Oshima, Takushima, and Takashima. Each island possesses an atmosphere that seems to have forgotten the passage of time, leaving a deep, lingering impression on the traveler's heart.

First is Azuchi-Oshima. Located northwest of Hirado Island, it is a journey of about forty 'koku' (units of time) by boat from Hirado Port. What is noteworthy on this island is the townscape called Kounoura. Houses from the Edo period stand side by side, still retaining the appearance of those days. This area is designated by the nation as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings, making it a truly precious landscape. Also, at the eastern tip of the island, there is a spectacular spot called Oga Cliff. The blue of the sea viewed from that cliff will surely send ripples through the traveler's heart.

Next is Takushima. This is an island of history and prayer, reached by a thirty-koku boat trip from Hirado Port. It was once a place where the Hidden Christians secretly protected their faith, and even now, remnants of the Hidden Christians quietly breathe in various places on the island. There are also traces of whaling on the island, and a nostalgic scent drifts through the quiet port town. The nature walking trails that wind through the swaying flowers will also change their colors with the four seasons, healing the hearts of those who walk them.

And finally, Takashima. Located 300 ken off the coast of Miyanoura, it is the closest to the mainland, but there is no longer a regular ferry, so it is an island that requires preparation to visit. However, this island has old battery ruins, and the remnants of its use as a military fortress during the Pacific War still remain quietly today. In addition, the island is known for being home to many cats and dogs that will spend peaceful time with you. On this small island wrapped in the sound of the tide, you can truly enjoy the atmosphere of a 'hidden village away from the mundane world.'

Each of these islands is a travel destination suitable for those who seek tranquility over bustle and healing over noise. If you entrust yourself to the flow of the tide and let your boat drift as your heart desires, something you yourself had forgotten may be waiting there quietly. Now, set off on your journey.

■ Location 1: Azuchi-Oshima Island: Oga Campsite

This place, known as Oga Campsite, is a campsite harmonized with nature, established right above the Oga Cliffs, the precipice at the eastern end of Azuchi-Oshima Island.

With its wide grassy fields, high skies, and constant sea breezes, it is a truly fine place that satisfies the traveler's heart. I have heard that it is open free of charge in every season, from the beginning of the year to the end, and I am deeply moved by this display of human kindness and the island's spirit.

In the center stands a sturdy observation deck, and looking down from there, the vast blue ocean and the sheer cliffs spread out below, as if blowing away all the troubles of the world. Nearby, a cooking facility is also fully equipped for preparing meals, making it a well-thought-out structure that combines the charm of camping with convenience.

Furthermore, if you go down the slope, there is a beach, where you can bask in the sun, play in the waves, and fill your chest with the scent of the sea. Additionally, a parking area is nearby, ensuring that those coming from afar can visit with peace of mind.

And, a shower room is also provided to cleanse your body after it has been soaked in sweat, a truly welcome amenity for washing away the grime of travel.

Thus, under the heavens, at the edge of the earth, gathering around a fire with the wind and overlooking the sea—this is the true essence of camping. I have deeply inscribed in this travel log that Oga Campsite is a hidden gem truly worthy of enjoying to the fullest for a day.

■ Location 2: Azuchi-Oshima Island: Kounoura Townscape

The town of Kounoura is a village built by people who made their living from fishing since long ago, around the beginning of the Edo period. As time passed, in the mid-Edo period, the start of whale fishing brought sudden prosperity to this area, and it transformed into a port town where merchants and craftsmen gathered.

Even after whale fishing declined, the town continued to develop by reclaiming land from the sea to expand the town and building townhouses. Today, the entire Kounoura townscape is preserved as an important historical site, and the designated area covers a wide range, including the sea, rivers, and temples and graveyards on the mountains.

Passing through the center of town is a narrow street about three ken (approx. 5.5 meters) wide. Along this road, traditional houses stand in a row, with houses on old, shallow plots on the mountain side, and deep houses built on the sea side, which were newly created during the whale fishing era.

The houses are built with gabled roofs, tiled, with a dirt floor passage, and rooms arranged on the left and right. In narrow plots, the second floor is used as living space, and ingenuity is applied, such as shaping the houses into trapezoids to match the curves of the road.

Also, throughout the town, stone walls and stone steps, as well as the communal wells that everyone once used, still remain, making it a place where you can still feel the breath of life from days of old.

In this way, Koura is a town with a unique atmosphere found only on a remote island, conveying the history of its transition from a fishing village to a port town, and it can truly be called a historical treasure worth visiting.

■ Third Location: Azuchi-Oshima: Guesthouse Senokawa

This inn is a guest house that welcomes travelers on the island of Oshima, floating off the coast of Hirado in the west of Kyushu. It is located within the historic townscape of Koura, a truly prestigious area designated by the nation as an "Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings".

The inn's building is an old house built in the late Edo period that has been adapted for modern use; its structure and atmosphere retain the charm of the past, and its quiet presence is sure to put your mind at ease.

The hosts make it their mission to provide sincere hospitality so that those coming from afar can spend even a brief moment in peace.

Also, during May, June, and September, free-diving fishing is conducted to catch abalone and turban shells by diving into the sea, allowing you to see and taste the bounty of the sea unique to this region.

With both the sea and mountains nearby, you can enjoy fishing just a short walk away. On this nature-rich island, listening to the sound of the waves and being blown by the wind, morning and evening, is the greatest healing of all.

If you are looking for ingredients, you can shop at the agricultural cooperative's store, and when night falls, it is also a pleasure to have a chat at a tavern where you can share a drink with the islanders, or a banquet hall where you can enjoy singing (both require reservations).

Furthermore, shrines and temples are within walking distance, and taking a stroll while quietly feeling the spiritual energy of the island is a time to cleanse your heart.

For those who wish to tour the famous sites and historic spots on the island, we rent out electric-powered palanquins (electric-assist bicycles) upon prior request, which will help you navigate the roads and climb hills with ease.

■ Fourth Location: Hirado Island: Hirado Castle

This Hirado Castle, once called Kameoka Castle, is a hirayama-jiro (flatland-mountain castle) built on high ground jutting out into the Hirado Strait. It commands a fine view and stands in a strategic location overlooking the sea, truly a formidable structure.

Construction began in the first year of Hoei (1704). The lord at the time, the 30th head of the Matsuura clan, Lord To , initiated the work, and after fourteen years, it was completed in the third year of Kyoho (1718) during the time of the 31st head, Lord Atsunobu .

However, as times changed, during the Meiji Restoration, it was ordered by the government to be dismantled, and it lost its form once.

Nevertheless, in 1962, it was restored to its former appearance, and now the three-story, five-level castle keep stands majestically, and it has been selected as one of the 100 Fine Castles of Japan.

Furthermore, in recent years, it has completed the Heisei major renovations, taking on a more beautiful, new appearance, and is now fully prepared to welcome travelers.

In this place where the sea and castle, wind and history meet, it is a pleasure to quietly look up at the castle while feeling the pride of the samurai of old. When you travel to Hirado, by all means, visit this castle of Kameoka. The castle, too, must surely be waiting in anticipation for everyone's visit.

[Advertisement] I shall arrange your lodging.

For those who desire this lodging and use the service known as Rakuten Travel, please apply here.

■ Location 5 Hirado Island: Ryotei Saigetsuan

This hermitage stands quietly on a hilltopoverlooking Hirado Port, the departure point for ships heading to Azuchi-Oshima and Shishiki-jima. It is an adult hideawayperfect for travelers wishing to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and spend time in tranquility.

The guest rooms consist of thirteen rooms across six different styles, each equipped with a private hot spring bath, allowing you to enjoy a moment of bathing undisturbed by anyone. With the swaying of the greenery, the scent of the breeze, and the warmth of the water, both body and soul will surely be unraveled.

Our hermitage not only offers lodging but also accepts reservations for banquets and gatherings, preparing seasonal mealselaborately crafted to reflect the four seasons.

The garden viewed from the rooms spans a thousand tsubo, and the changing colors of the seasons soothe the heart. This is truly a place to leave daily life behind and return to nature. It is a healing hermitagefor forgetting the floating world for a moment and facing oneself.

For our cuisine, we use fresh ingredientsnurtured by the sea and mountains of Hirado, valuing the season and preparing each dish with heart to preserve the natural flavors. The menu changes with the time and season, so you will encounter new tastes each time you visit.

Relaxing in the hot spring in your room, savoring the seasonal flavors in the dining area, and listening to the whispers of the wind in the garden—everything becomes a path to peace.

[Advertisement] I shall arrange the preparations for your stay.

For those who desire this inn and use the service known as Rakuten Travel, please apply here.

Appendix: Great Japan Coastal Map (Remote Island Tour)

■ Three Selected Gifts from the Land of Hirado 《Advertisement》

These are the gifts from the Land of Hirado (Furusato Nozei return gifts) that I, a samurai of Suwa, recommend with confidence. The bounty of the mountains and sea, tempered by the ocean breeze, is truly exquisite in flavor, and I believe they are masterpieces that would not shame even distant lands. Please take a look—the sincerity of Hirado is here.

❖ [Uses 100% Hirado-grown Camellia japonica] Pure Camellia Oil "Hirado Bonita" 1 bottle (60cc/bottle)

"Blooming on the skin, Hirado's camellia. A beauty's secret remedy, dignified and lustrous."

A pure oil distilled from natural Camellia japonica grown in Hizen-Hirado. Containing over 80% oleic acid, it possesses a truly potent power to keep skin soft and prevent dryness, fine lines, and roughness. Under the supervision of a doctor from the cedar forest, it has been crafted into a true cosmetic oil with absolutely no additives. Apply it to your skin after a bath, and it will bloom moist and lustrous, just like a spring flower.

❖ Ago Dashi (Flying Fish Stock) Powder and Easy Soup Set

"A single sprinkle completes the meal; the stock is a family treasure. The scent of flying fish dances on the dining table."

Flying fish (ago) that have flown and fallen from the skies of Hirado—grilled, dried, powdered, bagged, and turned into soup in a three-way combination. A masterpiece suitable for soba broth, soups, and even New Year's Eve. Includes three packs of 90-monme powder, four bags of stock, and one 70-monme bag for soup. Please consume by April. Even in busy times, just pour in hot water and the savory aroma will rise immediately—truly a samurai's meal preparation.

❖ [Beautiful from the inside out] Pure Edible Camellia Oil "Delicioso"

"Drops of camellia nurtured by the sea breeze, a wonderful remedy for beauty that blooms from within."

This is a pure oil pressed from the seeds of Camellia japonica grown while bathed in the sea breeze of Hirado. Boasting 86% oleic acid, it is a precious oil that serves as both a meal and a medicine. It is excellent for heating and also good raw. The fact that it turns cloudy white in cold weather is proof of its natural origin. Please warm it in lukewarm water and consume it with care.

■ Previous Google Maps Remote Island Tours

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