♯21 Takaoka Castle: A Famous Castle for Only One Generation of Toshinaga Maeda
When you tell the locals, "I want to visit Takaoka Castle," they reply, "There's nothing there." However, the outlines of the massive castle still remain clearly visible today. Moreover, it is said that its layout was designed by none other than Ukon Takayama. There are various theories, but even if that were not the case, it was the layout of Toshinaga Maeda, the son-in-law of Nobunaga's daughter, Eihime. Either way, isn't Takaoka Castle amazing? (Kojo, Takaoka City, Toyama Prefecture)
Who designed the layout?
Takaoka Castle was built by Toshinaga, the son of Toshiie and Matsu. Although he first built Toyama Castle as his retirement castle, due to various circumstances, he built a new retirement castle in Takaoka in 1609 (Keicho 14). However, perhaps already suffering from illness, Toshinaga passed away in 1614 (Keicho 19). It was abandoned the following year in 1615 (Genna 1), meaning it was a castle that existed for only one generation of Toshinaga Maeda.
National Historic Site: Takaoka Castle Ruins
Takaoka Castle was built in 1609 (Keicho 14) by Toshinaga Maeda, the second head of the Kaga Maeda clan, as his own retirement castle, and is located on the Takaoka plateau between the Oyabe and Sho rivers.
In 1609, because his residence, Toyama Castle, had burned down, Toshinaga built Takaoka Castle in six months as his new residence and developed the castle town. Toshinaga passed away in 1614 (Keicho 19), and the following year, in 1615 (Genna 1), Takaoka Castle was abandoned due to the 'One Castle Per Province' law, but it was maintained thereafter as a site for the domain's rice and salt storehouses. After the Meiji Restoration, it was developed into a park, which it remains today.
The layout of Takaoka Castle features 'umadashi' (horse-outworks) placed around the main enclosure, which is a characteristic feature of this period. Excavations conducted between 2010 and 2012 confirmed that the underground remains are well-preserved, including the discovery of foundation stones and stone masonry thought to have belonged to the palace in the main enclosure.
Despite being in an urban area, the moats and enclosures are preserved almost exactly as they were at the time, making it an important historic site for understanding the political and military situation and castle construction techniques of the early modern period.
Takaoka Castle has a magnificent layout (design), such as the ingenious placement of its horse-outworks. This has been linked to the presence of Ukon Takayama, who was said to be a master of castle construction, leading to the claim that the layout of Takaoka Castle was the work of Ukon. Since Ukon also designed the layout of Kanazawa Castle, such a theory follows naturally. As a Christian daimyo who lived a rather mysterious life, Ukon was treated generously as a guest of the Maeda family, partly due to his connection as a disciple of Rikyu. There is a sense of romance in the story that it was Ukon's design.
Ukon Takayama Commemorative Monument
Ukon Takayama (1552-1615), whose given name was Nagafusa, commonly known as Ukon-dayu, baptized name Justo, and known in the tea ceremony as Nanbo. He was promoted by Nobunaga Oda and Hideyoshi Toyotomi to become a daimyo of 120,000 koku in Akashi. He refused the ban on Christianity and was exiled, but through the mediation of Tadaoki Hosokawa, he obtained Hideyoshi's tacit consent and was welcomed into the Kaga domain with a high stipend of over 10,000 koku. Toshiie and Toshinaga Maeda were disciples of the tea master Sen no Rikyu and were close friends with Nanbo.
Takaoka Castle, built in 1609 by Lord Toshinaga, the founder of Takaoka City, after his retirement, is a famous castle with a creative and far-reaching composition designed by the master of castle construction, Ukon, and is said to rival Edo Castle and Osaka Castle. Lord Toshinaga foresaw the trends of the world and, fearing a resurgence of conflict between the Tokugawa and Toyotomi, built the castle with deep foresight to prepare for any emergency.
The Tokugawa Shogunate's ban became increasingly strict, and in January 1614 (Keicho 19), Ukon was exiled from the country, expressing his deep gratitude for the 26 years of favor he had received in the domain before departing. When he arrived in Luzon in November, he was welcomed with great enthusiasm, and his fame spread to Spain and Rome, but he soon fell ill with a plague and ended his turbulent life in January 1615 (Genna 1).
The citizens of Takaoka cherish the memory of Lord Toshinaga and Ukon Takayama, who were of one mind despite their different bodies, and this feeling of respect will continue forever through generations.
Regarding who was responsible for the layout of Takaoka Castle, a discussion is recorded on the Toyama City Buried Cultural Property Center's webpage, 'Toyama Castle Research Corner,' under the title "Did Ukon Takayama design the layout of Takaoka Castle?."
In conclusion, the theory that Ukon designed it seems unlikely, and it is considered that Toshinaga Maeda did it himself. However, according to the monument inscription, the citizens of Takaoka believe that Toshinaga and Ukon were 'of one mind,' so I feel there is no need to deny the romance-filled Ukon theory.
Structure of Takaoka Castle
There are no architectural remains at the Takaoka Castle ruins. However, the castle ruins remain today in a state where the scale and structure from the time of its construction can be confirmed, which is incredibly delightful for castle enthusiasts. It feels like you can understand everything in detail by reading the 'Special Exhibition: National Historic Site Commemorative Takaoka Castle Ruins Attraction Pamphlet.'
When you visit the Takaoka Castle ruins, you are overwhelmed by the massive earthen ramparts and the wide water moats. Even without stone walls, it truly has the presence of a formidable fortress. And then there is the layout. Basically, it seems to follow the layout of Toyama Castle, and when compared, it is easy to see that the design philosophy, such as the placement of the horse-outworks protecting the main enclosure, is similar.
It is a great pity that I missed seeing more, such as the stone walls of the earthen bridge, which are said to be valuable remains from the time of the castle's construction, and the stones from the stone walls that were pulled up from the riverbed.
Zuiryu-ji Temple and the Stone Mausoleums of the Maeda and Oda Families
When people think of the Maeda family, they probably think of Toshiie, but his son Toshinaga must have also been quite a person. He was likely nurtured closely by Nobunaga from a young age, and was trusted enough to marry Nobunaga's daughter, Eihime. The family temple of Toshinaga Maeda is the National Treasure Zuiryu-ji Temple. The temple complex is magnificent, and the roof of the Buddha hall is covered with lead tiles. It is the same as Kanazawa Castle. This temple was built by Toshinaga's successor, the third lord of the Kaga domain, Toshitsune, to pray for the repose of Toshinaga's soul. It is said that the construction took about 20 years, from the Shoho era to 1663 (Kanbun 3). The graveyard is separate and is connected to Zuiryu-ji by a path called Hatcho-michi.
Within the grounds of Zuiryu-ji Temple, there are stone mausoleums for the Maeda and Oda families. The largest belongs to Toshinaga, next to it is Toshiie, then Oda Nobunaga, and after a small mausoleum, Oda Nobutada. The small one is said to be for the mother of Toshinaga's wife, Eihime. It is said that the remains of Nobunaga and Nobutada are buried in their respective mausoleums, but is this really true? It is a mystery whether any bones of the father and son, who were said to have vanished from this world without leaving a single hair behind, actually existed. Speaking of mysteries, even the Zuiryu-ji website does not state who built these stone mausoleums. Since it would be strange to build one's own mausoleum, perhaps Toshitsune, the younger brother who inherited the Kaga Domain from Toshinaga, built them when Zuiryu-ji was established. However, for the four people other than himself, they were individuals whose spirits Toshinaga deeply wished to mourn, so it would be natural for them to have been built according to Toshinaga's wishes. If so, perhaps a hypothesis can be made that the four mausoleums were already enshrined here by Toshinaga during his lifetime, and for Toshinaga's own, a particularly large and magnificent one was built during the establishment of Zuiryu-ji, following the example of the other four. In any case, it is clear that he held special feelings not only for his father Toshiie but also for Nobunaga and his son.
Nobunaga's daughter, Eihime (Gyokusen-in), and Toshinaga
Toshinaga's legal wife was Eihime, the daughter of Oda Nobunaga. The two were said to be a devoted couple, but they had no children. Therefore, his younger half-brother, Toshitsune, succeeded Toshinaga as the third lord of the domain. After Toshinaga passed away, Toshitsune welcomed Eihime (Gyokusen-in) to Kanazawa Castle and built a residence for her within the castle grounds. When Gyokusen-in passed away in the 9th year of Genna (1620), her residence was removed to become the Gyokusen-in Maru, and a magnificent garden was created. The garden has been reconstructed, allowing us to see what it once looked like, but it is a bit regrettable that Eihime (Gyokusen-in) did not actually live while looking out at this garden.
Buildings of the Yamacho-suji street that retain the atmosphere of the castle town
Yamacho-suji is lined with storehouse-style buildings designated as a Nationally Selected Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. One might think that the houses from the Takaoka castle town remain, but it seems that after a great fire in 1900, storehouses with reinforced fireproof structures were built, leading to the present day. Because of this, not only Japanese-style designs but also Western-style designs are incorporated throughout, increasing the sense of style. The sight of old buildings with a mix of Japanese and Western styles is spectacular. There are also complex commercial facilities like Yamacho Valley that utilize the depths of the townhouses. The prosperity of the castle town built by Toshinaga continued long after the castle was abandoned, and it is connected to the town development of today.
Yamacho-suji Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings
A street that flourished as the commercial center of Takaoka after the town was opened in 1609. After the Great Takaoka Fire of 1900, buildings with fireproof earthen storehouse structures were lined up here. The Yamacho-suji Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings features buildings that are generally large in scale, possessing a profound appearance with cast-iron pillars, firewalls, black plaster walls, and hinged earthen doors, while also incorporating Western architectural designs such as cast-iron pillars and brick firewalls. On the other hand, the interiors are contrastingly delicate, using luxurious precious woods and Sukiya-style craftsmanship. In addition, the courtyard set between the main house and the storehouse harmonizes with the buildings, creating a quiet, green-filled space despite being in an urban area. Each of the storehouse-style buildings has a presence as a traditional building, and the sight of townhouses with Western-style exteriors and brick buildings standing side by side forms a unique historical landscape that reveals the history of the city's transition and modernization.
The city of Takaoka, whose foundations were laid by Toshinaga—the son of the 'kabuki-mono' (eccentric) Maeda Toshiie and a student of Nobunaga—is wonderful and full of charm. Takaoka City's mascot character 'Toshinaga-kun' and the image character for Ukon Takayama, who drew the blueprints for Takaoka Castle, 'Ukon-tan,' are also playing a role in increasing the appeal of this city.
