The Ultimate Drain Clog Tool: Asada Low Pump - A 300-Yen DIY Adapter Hack That Surprises Even Pros
You will never have to pay tens of thousands of yen to call a professional when your drain gets clogged again.
When the kitchen or toilet drain stops flowing and sewage starts to pool—in this desperate situation, the first thing most people do is search for "drain clog professional."
A professional arrives with a single phone call, uses some powerful tool, and solves it in an instant. The invoice for that service starts at "30,000 yen." In some cases, you hear stories about unscrupulous contractors performing unnecessary work and charging hundreds of thousands of yen.
From my experience dealing with water issues in share houses, the reality of that multi-ten-thousand-yen job is usually"pumping a powerful pressure pump back and forth a few times or inserting a drain snake (a long wire-like tool) and spinning it around."Of course, since they came to do the work and solved the problem, you might judge the cost to be reasonable.
However, I think,"Can't I just solve it anytime if I use the same thing as the clog professionals?"So I ask the professionals what they are using.
That "professional tool" is the"Asada Low Pump".
I previously introduced the Low Pump alongside Smart Lock and PP-Through K in an article I wrote,
🛠 You can do it without relying on professionals! 3 best items chosen by a share house operator
here.
《Reference Video | Youtube: @hiroshiwork》
If you have this ultimate tool used by professionals, you can solve 90% of clogs yourself. The unit price is around 20,000 yen.For the cost of one professional visit, you get a "lifetime solution."
However, there is actually a "physical wall" that makes it difficult to solve even for those who have bought this ultimate tool. This time, I will reveal how to solve it.
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■ The Low Pump had a weakness too!
Even if you start working enthusiastically using a Low Pump for a kitchen drain clog, the pressure doesn't build up well... Why...?
The cause is not a lack of tool performance, but the"size of the drain pipe."The diameters of drain pipes frequently used in Japanese homes are mainly classified into2 types.
① Nominal 40 size: Water equipment in slightly older properties or narrow spaces
② Nominal 50 size: Standard size for recent detached houses and condominiums
The standard rubber (nozzle) of the Low Pump is too large and does not fit tightly against the drain pipe.
What do professional clog cleaners do?
If the size doesn't match, they stuff a wet rag into the gap to prevent air leakage during suction. However, although it makes it harder to leak, it is not perfectly sealed, so the potential of the Low Pump drops significantly, and it takes time to clear the clog.
I have to do something about this 🤔
■ LLC-HOUSE style optimal solution: 300-yen "Airtight Docking"
That is when I arrived at a method of repurposing a 75x40 eccentric bushing, which can be found at home improvement store PVC pipe sections for a few hundred yen, by using it in reverse as an 'adapter to expand the diameter'.
<<What a 75x40 eccentric bushing looks like>>
Why is this the best method?
The key lies in the overwhelming ROI (return on investment) of just 300 yen and the 'eccentric' (the hole is offset to the side) design.
Depending on the situation, kitchen drain pipes are sometimes installed right against the wall. With standard parts where the center is aligned, you cannot position the Low Pump vertically because it interferes with the wall, but with this 'eccentric bushing,' couldn't you just rotate it to avoid the wall and secure the perfect position to generate vacuum pressure?
■ [Tried it myself] Step-by-step guide
From here on, I will reveal the 'airtight docking' procedure that I actually standardize on-site.
1. Preparation and masking
Anticipating the risk of drain blowout, let's mask the area under the sink. It is possible for drainage to splatter or blow out during the work.
This is a preparatory step to minimize accidents during work and cleaning afterward.
2. Apply seal tape
Wrap seal tape 3 to 4 times around the tip of the masked pipe. This reduces the slight 'gaps' between the PVC parts to as close to zero as possible. This is an important step to transmit 100% of the vacuum pressure and prevents unnecessary sewage leakage from the PVC joints while using the Low Pump.
(By the way, seal tape is now sold at 100-yen shops, not just home improvement stores.)
3. Docking
Firmly insert the bushing over the seal tape.
Now you are ready!
4. Activate the Low Pump
Press the rubber of the Low Pump vertically and pull the handle in one go. With a 'gurgling' sensation, the trapped vacuum pressure sucks out the cause of the clog by the roots.
Work that takes other people an hour can be finished in about 15 minutes.
■ The cost of this 'magic' modification is only about 300 yen; I really want you to experience this power.
With just one PVC bushing costing around 300 yen, the Low Pump can now handle narrow drain openings.
Instead of using off-the-shelf products as they are, increase your on-site resolution and optimize tools for your own environment. I believe that is the key to smartly solving the difficult challenge of home maintenance and improving the quality of operations.
I think you won't regret buying a Low Pump. When you buy one, I recommend purchasing a 75x40 eccentric bushing at the same time, as I believe it can solve almost any clogging trouble; it's a recommended combination. 👍
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