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[Bolivia Day 167] Travel Log: Potosí and Sucre

It's been almost half a year since I came to Bolivia, and I have surprisingly few local friends. (I guess I didn't try hard enough. Come to think of it, I gave up on that effort early on at the training center too. Luckily, I've been blessed with good people, though. 🥲 People really don't change that much.)
While I knew how Bolivians spend their Christmas and New Year's parties from the Instagram posts of other volunteers, I went to sleep at 9:00 PM with Netflix. I also slept through the New Year while watching the Hakone Ekiden.
Apparently, it's unbelievable to Bolivians that someone would hole up in their room for both Christmas and New Year's.
Before I knew it, 2026 had arrived, while my host mom worried about me.

Telling myself that I stayed home in December on purpose so I could splurge in January, I went on my first long-distance trip since coming to Bolivia! I went to Potosí and Sucre.

The itinerary was to fly from Santa Cruz to Sucre, and then take a bus to Potosí.

However, I couldn't find a bus to Potosí. A taxi driver told me there were no more buses. That was clearly a lie, but since it seemed true that no one knew when a bus would return from Potosí, I decided to take a shared taxi. I paid 100 bolivianos, while the other passengers paid 80. I don't mind being ripped off, but why do they have to reveal the trick so brazenly right in front of me? (Angry)

Why are there no side mirrors... The driver kept praying to God while speeding on the winding roads, and he kept saying he was out of gas, making it a terrifying three-hour ride.

I arrived in Potosí safely, but due to some circumstances, I had 300 bolivianos stolen by a woman who was riding with me. I lost my motivation after being discouraged by my own stupidity in letting a total stranger handle my phone, but...

Telling myself it was good that it was only 7,000 yen (which is honestly true; in that situation, they could have taken all my money if they wanted to), I went to the Mint Museum. By the way, there is a bold dual-pricing system: 20 bolivianos for locals and 70 bolivianos for foreigners.

Speaking of Potosí, there's this guy! I forgot his name. Apparently, it's a face mocking the side that exploits, or perhaps the government? Also, they say either the left or right side is actually a sad face.
He is everywhere, on signs and posters.

Originally, the Mining Museum (with its records of forced labor and torture devices) was my main goal, but it collapsed and is no longer there... What a waste, even though it must have been a valuable tourist resource—a source of income—for the city...

Since my altitude sickness was starting to kick in, I decided to eat a Potosí specialty and head back. Potosí beer is local, so I'm happy it's cheap (as expected, my symptoms worsened).

The Potosí specialty, K'alapurka. It's a stew-like soup that contains a hot stone. It's said to be very hearty so that miners can work for long hours in the freezing cold.

The second day was the long-awaited 'Cerro Rico Mine Tour'!
It is a 'negative world heritage site' due to the forced labor of indigenous people and slaves, the high number of victims, etc.
At the same time, it is a 'heritage in danger'.
Victims (from illness, collapses, suffocation, explosions, and other accidents) are still constant, and because they have been destroying it without a plan for over 500 years, the inside is hollowed out—so it wouldn't be strange if the mountain collapsed and disappeared at any time, apparently. 👈️ Gemini

We bought coca leaves, alcohol (the crazy 96% stuff), dynamite, juice, etc., as gifts for the miners. The guide, an older man, threw the dynamite he was holding, which annoyed a pair of beautiful women from Argentina.
The guy on the right said he has been working for over 10 years since he was 15 (probably). He says he does the same work for 8 hours without a break.
It was tough, crawling through ant-nest-like caves at an altitude of 4,300 meters and climbing walls. When I touched the ceiling, it would crumble away...
Inside, we made offerings to the devil and prayed (this one was a cute-looking devil). It's said that the belief is that 'the underground (the world of darkness) is ruled by the devil, not God'.

I try to organize what was good about it for me, but I can't. Regardless, I'm just glad I was able to go to the Potosí mines.

Since I had been suffering from altitude sickness the whole time, returning to Sucre felt like heaven.
・A paradise of art museums and stylish cafes.
・A cityscape that feels the pride of being the constitutional capital; no trash, no mosquitoes or cockroaches, and no dust blowing around.
・Traffic manners were good, and I felt the people were gentle.

Even at such an overly stylish rooftop bar, the alcohol and food were cheaper than in Santa Cruz.

On the last night, I went to a craft beer place with a colleague who lives in Sucre! It was so much fun that I got completely drunk, and I don't even know what we talked about for those four hours.

I thought there was a lot of craft beer in Sucre, and now I understand why: the climate is perfect, so rich beers taste delicious! In Santa Cruz, it's hot, so draft beer is always the way to go.

Sucre was so amazing that I didn't want to go back to the tropical climate...
But if I lived in Sucre, I wouldn't be able to walk around in pajamas like I do now, and once I left, I'd probably miss the roughness and chaos of the town.
Plus, there wouldn't be the street stalls I rely on every day.

In Bolivia, where there are no convenience stores, it would be a real problem if they disappeared.


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