Fujian Wanderings 11: Spend at least one night in a Tulou village in your lifetime!

The Tulou of Tianluokeng in Fujian Province. The guesthouse I stayed at this time had rooms outside the Tulou, so strictly speaking, I didn't stay inside a Tulou. However, since I could gaze at the Tulou as much as I wanted until the next morning, I think the enjoyment was almost the same. (Rooms outside the Tulou are more comfortable, anyway.)

Nowadays, Tulou have become quite touristy. Inside the Tulou, souvenir shops catering to tourists and simple eateries line the walls, giving it a somewhat commercial feel. Well, I feel that Tulou have a deep charm that makes you not care about such minor details.

While there are various shops, there are also living spaces like this. Yes, while Tulou are internationally known tourist destinations designated as World Heritage sites, they are also ordinary residential spaces where Hakka people still live today. Both round and square Tulou are characterized by communal living spaces built in the center, incorporating advanced design concepts for Qing Dynasty buildings that allowed for collective living while protecting against external enemies. Although they are overflowing with many tourists during the day, the atmosphere becomes relaxed from evening to early morning, allowing you to experience the Tulou as a 'place of living'.

Still, I think it's amazing that they built such magnificent structures. The last of the existing Tulou in Tianluokeng is actually the square 'Buyun Building'. The round ones were restored later, and the most recently restored Tulou is the 'Wenchang Building', built in 1966. While 60 years might sound new, the long-term historical weathering gives it a naturally retro atmosphere.

What is this building? I can see the characters for 'Hotel' in small print, so perhaps it was a lodging house in front of the Tulou in the past? I am captivated by the atmosphere of this old-fashioned Chinese building, which is different from both Japan and Taiwan.

It's dinner time, and the sun has completely set. The Tulou in the twilight is also quite nice.

At night, it transforms into such a fantastical space. The time I most want you to spend at a Tulou is at night. Now, it is brightly lit up, and I think the atmosphere has changed to be somewhat more modern, but before they were designated as World Heritage sites, the Tulou must have been a much darker world with a stronger sense of mystery.

At night, there are almost no tourists. (Actually, there are occasionally tourists strolling through the Tulou at night, but since they are all 'experts' who go out of their way to stay in Tulou rooms or nearby guesthouses, they have good manners.)

This is a wonderful little reward that people who only see the bustling Tulou during the day on a day trip cannot experience. To burn this sight into your own eyes, you have to stay overnight. This is the biggest reason why I strongly insist that you should stay at a Tulou!

I think it is a travel destination that rivals the casino district of Macau, Victoria Peak in Hong Kong, and Gulangyu Island in Xiamen, but what do you all think?

Tianluokeng, where the Tulou are located, is also wonderful in the early morning. Fortunately, it was clear from the morning on this day. I can slowly enjoy the scenery of the village nestled in the embrace of the mountains.

The morning hours of daily life have also arrived in the courtyard of the Tulou. Everyone washes their faces, brushes their teeth, and makes breakfast here.

Now, let's eat breakfast. The main dish is noodles. It is full of ingredients and has plenty of vegetables, and the flavor was gentle, which felt nice for a breakfast when sleepiness still lingered.

And the side dishes are the same as last night. Oh yes, in home-cooked meals, the same side dishes often appeared multiple times. I thought this actually felt quite homey and nice.

If it weren't for the existence of the Tulou, Tianluokeng would be an ordinary mountain village. It is a comforting landscape that could be seen anywhere in the world's temperate humid climate regions.

The sight of drying meat, vegetables, and beans is also unique to the countryside.

It is hard to leave, but it is almost time to depart. Here, the owner of the guesthouse suggested that there is a recommended spot, so I should stop by there and then catch the bus.

The author, who is still poor at searching for information on Baidu, does not fully understand the nearby tourist spots. So, I got into the owner's car.