[Aomori] A Trip to Fully Enjoy Aomori Part 2: Shirakami-Sanchi, Mt. Iwaki, and More
The second day of the Aomori trip.
This day was packed with activities, starting early from the hotel to visit places like the Twelve Lakes (Juniko) in Shirakami-Sanchi and the Iwaki-yama Shrine.
It was a very busy day.
To the Twelve Lakes of Shirakami-Sanchi
Shirakami-Sanchi is a World Heritage site that spans across Akita Prefecture.
The Twelve Lakes (Juniko) is actually a collective name for a group of 33 lakes and ponds.
It seems they are called the Twelve Lakes because you can see 12 of the larger lakes.
I went to Aoike (Blue Pond), the most famous of the Twelve Lakes.
This area is a hiking course, but Namahage Taro doesn't hike,
and I didn't want to cause trouble by getting lost while being so lightly equipped,
so I checked the walking course and tried walking through the beech forest instead.
The walking course was relatively gentle,
and the promenade was well-maintained.
Namahage Taro was scared of bears 🐻,
but was surprised when we encountered a monkey along the way.
Fortunately, it left on its own.
The view from the observation deck
And, since I was there, I decided to walk a bit through Shirakami-Sanchi
and went to the beech forest.
It was a walking course, so I didn't do any mountain climbing.
It was so delicious that I started buying it in bulk whenever I go to Aomori after this.
Looking out at the Sea of Japan
I had been driving along the Sea of Japan side the whole time,
and it was very sunny, so the scenery was wonderful.
On the way back from Shirakami-Sanchi, while heading toward Mt. Iwaki, the Sea of Japan
was so beautiful that I stopped along the way.
Engaku-ji Temple
I found a temple along the Sea of Japan, so I stopped by.
Right near this temple was a port where Kitamaebune ships used to wait for favorable winds,
and there was also a building that looked like a history museum.
Kitamaebune were ships that connected Hokkaido to the Kansai region,
and in an era when land routes like highways and railways were not as developed as they are today,
ships were a very important means of transportation.
It is said that Engaku-ji Temple was founded in 807 by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, the Seii Taishogun (Great General who Subdues the Barbarians).
After receiving a goshuin (temple seal), I visited the temple treasure hall in the back.
It was quite impressive, and photography was prohibited.
This temple has been worshipped by local people for bountiful catches and safe voyages.
Surprisingly, the topknots (chonmage) of sailors who survived storms
were dedicated in large numbers and displayed in the treasure hall.
It was quite overwhelming, or rather, it felt mysterious, as if the hair of the people from that time
was still speaking to me.
Many other items were on display, such as pottery, tea bowls, and ship votive tablets (ema) brought by the Kitamaebune ships.
I was hungry, so I had a meal
Speaking of Aomori, flounder is famous!
Since I happened to be driving along the Sea of Japan,
I found a restaurant famous for its flounder rice bowl.
I ate a hearty lunch and was quite full.
After this, I headed to Iwaki-yama Shrine.
Iwaki-yama Shrine
It began with the founding of the shrine building on the summit of Mount Iwaki in 780.
In 800, Sakanoue no Tamuramaro rebuilt it,
established the Shita-i-no-miya (lower shrine) in the village of Tokoshi-nai at the foot of the mountain,
and designated the summit as the Okumiya (inner shrine).
In other words, the place Namahage Taro visited was the Shita-i-no-miya.
*I didn't climb Mount Iwaki, and I probably couldn't, tears.
When you go to the Tohoku region, there are many temples and shrines worshipped or founded by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro.
Also, there are legends remaining where he prayed for victory.
Sakanoue no Tamuramaro was appointed Seii Taishogun by the Imperial Court,
and he was the person sent to subdue the Emishi, who were the people originally living in Tohoku,
because they did not follow the Imperial Court.
However, when Sakanoue no Tamuramaro captured the Emishi leader Aterui and was returning to the Imperial Court, he listened to Aterui's story,
was moved, and pleaded for a commutation of his sentence to the Imperial Court,
but his plea was in vain, and Aterui was executed...
I will write about the story of the Emishi in another travel record.
Namahage Taro is very interested in history, not limited to the Emishi,
where people who originally lived in that land had their lives and culture destroyed by the Imperial Court,
and were invaded.
One example of that is the tour of the Momotaro legend in Okayama that I wrote about before.
Well, the story drifted a bit, so let's return to Iwaki-yama Shrine.
The atmosphere of Iwaki-yama Shrine is solemn yet comfortable.
Shrines really are mysterious.
The approach was long, but it felt like it passed in an instant while walking.
To Kizukuri Station
I heard there was a very unique station building, so I couldn't help but go!
The Kamegaoka Ruins are nearby,
and the Shakoki-dogu (goggle-eyed clay figurine) excavated there is very famous.
It is designated as a National Important Cultural Property.
However, that figurine is not exhibited within Aomori Prefecture,
and surprisingly, it is housed at the Tokyo National Museum in Ueno...
It's kind of sad, haha.
Its eyes light up when a train arrives, which was quite surreal.
Kizukuri Station
Even though it was excavated in Aomori, for some reason it was in Ueno.
Bonus
I think the distance driven that day was also incredible.
After going to Kizukuri Station, I returned to the hotel in front of Shin-Aomori Station.
When I was waiting for the pizza place outside the hotel,
it was surprisingly delivered by a passenger car... It wasn't a motorbike.
Well, the next day I toured Hirosaki,
but I had no plan and had already returned the rental car.
Thinking, 'Isn't a rental car necessary after all?',
I hurriedly booked a rental car from another company the night before.
Next, on to the travel record of the final day.