[Kyoto] Shimabara Exit Scene

This depicts the scene at the entrance and exit of the Shimabara pleasure district in Kyoto.

This is the eastern entrance located at Suzakuno Tanbaguchi. The bustling scene, crowded with many people, is like a documentary photograph that conveys the prosperity and flourishing state of the Shimabara pleasure district to us today.

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It is not just pleasure-seekers passing through the gate; one can also see vendors, people delivering catering, women who appear to be ordinary citizens, and an old woman holding the hand of a small child. While pleasure districts often have an image of being strictly controlled, one gets the impression that Shimabara in the late Edo period allowed for unexpectedly free access.

Deep inside the gate, one can see the figure of a tayu (courtesan) walking while holding a large umbrella.

The fact that magnificent buildings are lined up and one can see the figures of courtesans behaving gracefully on the second floor even from outside the gate might be intended for promotional effect.

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Now, let's go inside.

The Shimabara pleasure district is composed of six towns.

There is one street running east-west, and three streets running north-south.

It is divided into Naka-no-cho, Chudo-ji-cho, and Shimo-no-cho in order from the northeast, and Kami-no-cho, Tayu-cho, and Ageya-cho in order from the southeast, which is why Shimabara is also known as "Misuji-machi" (Three-Street Town).

The "Rokucho-gumi" (Six-Town Group) written on the lantern hung at the guard station refers to these six towns.

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Let's look at the illustrations from a Shimabara guidebook published in the seventh year of Horeki (1757). This is about a hundred years before the era depicted by Teishin.

Upon entering the east gate, there is a small bridge. The one in the foreground is labeled "Shian-bashi" (Pondering Bridge), and the one beyond it is "Emon-bashi" (Clothing Bridge). I believe this was an entertainment feature modeled after the Yoshiwara district in Edo.

The "Shian-bashi" was located near the original Yoshiwara, and it was called Shian-bashi because it was a place where people would ponder whether to go to Yoshiwara or not; the "Emon-zaka" (Clothing Slope) was on the way to the New Yoshiwara, and it was called Emon-zaka because pleasure-seekers would adjust their clothing there.

Immediately after entering the east gate, the "Hachimonji-ya" and "Kagi-ya" are lined up.

The fact that there is a dog near the young visitor that looks like it is about to jump on him might be based on a haiku composed by Basho's top disciple, Kikaku.

At the exit of Shimabara
At the dawn parting, brushing away the dog, snow on my sleeves
Kikaku

Kinuginu is written as "Kinuginu" (dawn parting). It refers to a man and woman parting at dawn after a night together.

In Naka-no-cho, lower-ranking courtesans called Tsubone-joro and Koshi-joro appear for the night business.

In the Ageya-cho, the deepest part of the Shimabara pleasure district, a Tayu is walking. A man follows behind the Tayu holding a large umbrella, accompanied by a Hikifune, a Kamuro, and a Yarite.

* Tayu: The highest-ranking courtesan.
Hikifune: A courtesan in the pleasure districts of the Kamigata region who accompanies a Tayu and assists in entertaining guests.
Kamuro: A young girl who serves and apprentices under a Tayu.
Yarite: An older woman who manages the interactions between guests and courtesans.

This is a Tenjin. A Tenjin is a high-ranking courtesan positioned just below a Tayu, and is accompanied by a Shinzo.

* Daijin: A wealthy guest, such as a wealthy merchant.
Tenjin: A courtesan positioned just below a Tayu.
Shinzo: A young woman who has finished her apprenticeship as a Kamuro and serves an older courtesan.

To digress a little, when it comes to Shimabara Tayu, Yoshino Tayu is famous. Multiple courtesans used the name Shimabara Yoshino Tayu, but the most well-known is the second Yoshino Tayu of the Hayashi Yojibei family, who became the wife of the wealthy merchant Haiya Shoeki.

Her real name was Tokuko. Her professional name was Ukifune, but it is said she came to be called Yoshino after she saw the flowers in Shimabara and composed the poem, "Even here, surely Yoshino is in full bloom."

Although she was a woman redeemed from being a courtesan, she was originally from a samurai family, was beautiful, and was well-versed in various arts. Even after becoming Shoeki's wife, her elegant lifestyle and refined, virtuous character were passed down through generations with praise.

There is a short reading in the mid-Meiji era's "Women's Education Vol. 2 (About the Courtesan Yoshino Dayu)", so please open it if you are interested.

Beyond Ageya-cho is the west exit.

Tenjin Shrine, Ema-sha, and Sumiyoshi Shrine are enshrined here, and you can also see the |Mikoshi-gura (portable shrine storehouse)|.

At the storefront of the Tofu Teahouse, tofu dengaku is being grilled. You can almost smell the delicious aroma of the miso.

The fence at the exit is called the "Saraba-gaki" (Farewell Fence) because it is where courtesans would see off their guests and say goodbye.

Once you pass through the exit, you are on Senbon-dori Street.

There is a farmer carrying a hoe, and in contrast to the glamorous east gate, the area is filled with rice fields. You are suddenly pulled back from the glittering world of the pleasure district into the real world.

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To add a final note, most of Shimabara was destroyed by a fire that occurred in the fourth year of Kaei (1851) at the end of the Edo period. After temporarily moving operations to Gion Shinchi, Shimabara never regained its former prosperity even after it was rebuilt, and it gradually declined during the new era of the Meiji period.

It seems as though the bustle of Shimabara depicted by Teishin was its final moment of brilliance.

Even here, Yoshino must be in full bloom

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Reference: National Diet Library Digital Collections "Touring the Three Capitals' Flower Districts", "Enseki Jusshu Vol. 3", "Jinbunsho", "Sanshu Meiseki-shi", "Kyoto Meisho Junranki: Revised Color-Coded Town Names by District", "Kyoto Meisho Annai Zue (Guide to Famous Places in Kyoto) Vol. 1", "Women's Education Vol. 2", "Shitare Yanagi", "Kaha Hyakkaden: Portraits of the Noble and Humble", "Kokon Retsujo-den (Biographies of Virtuous Women Past and Present)", "Annotated Bibliography of Works by Women", "Kokon Meifu-den (Biographies of Famous Women Past and Present)"

Author's Note: I will update this as appropriate when I decipher new characters or notice typos/misreadings. For details, please read "Self-Introduction/Disclaimer". 📖