"Ryori Komoku Chomisho" (13) Miscellaneous Section (Sushi, Kokerazushi, Pickles)

|Sushi

Sea bream, |sea bass, |pomfret, |mackerel, |horse mackerel, |bonito, Spanish mackerel, croaker, sardine, yellowtail, trout, salmon, dolphinfish, carp, |eel; for these, you can take the meat, or slice it flat, and also use it for kokerazushi. Crucian carp, sweetfish, wataka, pale chub, gudgeon, and dark chub are used for maruzushi (whole sushi). For these types, if you pickle them while |fresh from the river, the |bones will be |soft.

For crucian carp, salt them overnight, wash off the salt, mix salt into cooked rice, stuff it into the belly, tie it at the eyes, and pickle it; this is called |raw sushi. For crucian carp and mackerel, remove the bones. For |mullet, take one about seven sun long, remove the bones, wash well, soak thoroughly in old sake, and after one night, dry the fish, mix salt with rice, stuff it into the belly, wrap it in zongzi (chimaki) bamboo leaves, arrange them in a tub, pack rice mixed with salt in between, and place a weight on top. In spring, it takes three or four days; in summer, two days.

* "Seven sun long" means about seven sun. * "Wash well" means wash thoroughly. * "Thoroughly" means to the brim. * "Zongzi" is chimaki. * "Arrange" means to line up.

|Kokerazushi

The fish are as noted above. For quick |sushi, sprinkle a little vinegar on the rice. For ingredients, use abalone, ark shell, shrimp, octopus, squid, |eggplant, wood ear mushrooms, bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, shiso, water pepper, Japanese ginger, and ginger. For vegetarian, use bamboo shoots, eggplant, mushroom varieties, and udo. In one book, it says to slice pheasant meat flat, salt it overnight, and pickle it as sushi.

* "Japanese ginger" is |myoga. * Reference: "Koji Ruien Vol. 44 (
kokerazushi)" (National Diet Library Digital Collections)

|Bird Miso |and Fish

Put sake into white miso until it is full, remove the bird's feathers, put it in whole, and boil it for |consecutive days until it becomes like |cotton, then pound it and add soy sauce. Also, for the boiling ratio, one pigeon and one crucian carp to one sho of sake. For fish, remove the |scales, and proceed as above. Duck, pigeon, sparrow, quail, skylark, |chicken, sea bream, carp, crucian carp.

* "Pound it" means to beat it. * "Soy sauce" refers to shoyu. * "Boil" means to cook.

Miso |Pickle

Spot-billed ducks, pigeons, quail, and skylarks can be used even after days have passed. For fish slices, sea bream is good after days have passed.

* "Spot-billed duck" is wild duck. |Duck. * "For fish slices, sea bream is" might be "fish slices, small sea bream." * "Shitarushi" means to become limp or soggy. Reference: "Dai Nihon Kokugo Jiten Vol. 2 (

shitarushi)" (National Diet Library Digital Collections)

|Lees Pickle

Sea bream, sea bass, abalone, trough shell, and Japanese trough shell. Salt overnight, dry, and pickle in lees mixed with salt. For birds, use skylark, quail, and duck.

* "Trough shell" is thought to be Mactra chinensis. * "Japanese trough shell" is |Umitake. A type of bivalve.

|Koji Pickle

Various fish that are heavily salted are good for pickling. For sliced |mackerel, remove the bones, prepare them like sashimi, and soak them in koji with equal parts sake and water until submerged in a |jar. Do not add salt otherwise.

* "Sashi-saba" refers to "sashi-saba" (skewered mackerel). It is said that it was called this because two pieces of salted mackerel, split down the back, were sold as a single unit by inserting the head of one piece into the head section of the other.

Gohai-zuke (Five-Cup Pickles)

Dried fish, salted mackerel, sardines, pickled in two cups of sake, two cups of vinegar, and one cup of salt. Place in a tub for five to seven days, press down, and after it has matured, use it as a sake-soaked dish. Ginger.

* "Sake-bite" refers to "sakabite" (sake-soaked). This means soaking fish, poultry, vegetables, etc., in sake with added salt. It also refers to the dish itself.

Takuan-zuke (Pickled Daikon)

Nerima daikon from Bushu, Miyashige daikon from Bishu, dried in a tub for a while, then pickled in one to of rice bran, three sho of salt, and three sho of koji, and pressed down. This is a spicy pickle. Remove any water leakage; it is a spicy pickle.

* "Bushu" is Musashi Province.
* "Bishu" is Owari Province.
* "Kara-zuke" is spicy pickles. This refers to Takuan-zuke. Reference: "Nihon Daijirin (karazuke)" (National Diet Library Digital Collection)

Kuki-zuke (Stem Pickles)

Kyoto's thin daikon, Oshu's willow daikon, and for turnips, the long turnip from Higashi-Omi. The pickling method is as usual. It is good to put koji in a bag and pickle four or five items together in one tub. Dry them, do not wash them.

* "Oshu" is Omi Province.
* "Nyojo" means as usual.

Nara-zuke (Nara Pickles)

Carefully select white melons and split them as usual, remove the inside to a depth of ●, salt the melons thickly, dry them for about an hour, remove the salt water, cool the melons, and mix salt to taste into the sake lees, using one monme of lees for two melons. If you spread a generous amount of salt mixed with rice bran on the bottom of the tub, the moisture will drip into the bran, and the melons will all remain firm. Place them in the tub, put on an inner lid, and press them down repeatedly. There are various other ways to pickle them. It is bad to mix melons, eggplants, etc. Daikon, eggplant, and lotus root are all pickled in lees.

* "Shio-maze" is salt mixed in.
* "Shitadari" is dripping. To drip, to trickle.

Dobuzuke (Doburoku Pickles)

It is also good to mix Jinda into doburoku and pickle. You can also mix white miso into the lees. Melons, eggplants, daikon, and ginger, all should have the moisture removed before pickling.

* "Kou" means mixed.
* "Jinda" is Jinda-miso. This refers to Goto-miso.
* "Ko" refers to miso.

Achyara-zuke (Achar Pickles)

Heat the vinegar and pickle while hot. One sho of vinegar, three go of salt, eggplants, ginger, myoga flower buds, lotus root, burdock. Salted mackerel, sardines, shellfish.

* "Myoga no ko" is the child of myoga. This refers to the flower buds of the myoga ginger.

Vinegar Pickling

Plum vinegar is also good. If you put mustard seeds at the bottom of the container with rice vinegar and pickle in it, it will not mold. Ginger, Japanese ginger, eggplant, and shiso are dried and pickled.

* "Kabizu" means "does not mold."

Pickled Matsutake Mushrooms

Boil down one sho of water and four go of salt to six go, place pine needles between the mushrooms, and pickle. Boil the mushrooms until the heat reaches the center of the stems. Shimeji and hatsutake mushrooms are the same.

* "Senjitsume" means "boiled down."
* I read "chū made tōru hodo yugaku" as "boil until the heat reaches the center," but I may have misread it.

Pickled Bamboo Shoots

Remove the skin of what is called gennō, boil it, boil down one sho of water and four go of salt to six go, let it cool, add enough to cover the bamboo shoots, apply a weight, and do not let air in. When using, remove the salt by soaking. Alternatively, it is also good to boil matsutake mushrooms and bamboo shoots well and pickle them in salt without water.

* "Gennō" refers to "Gennō." It is a bamboo shoot that is still short and soft. Reference: "Latest Vegetable Cooking Methods: Practical Experience, Also Known as Kitchen Treasure Record" (National Diet Library Digital Collection)
* "Yoku yudete" means to boil well.

Pickled Eggplant

Cook five sho of rice until firm, let it cool, mix with five sho of koji, put it in a tub, and it will become sweet in three days. Also, for immediate use, add two sho of salt, pickle the eggplants, and use after about ten days. To store until spring, pickle them around the eighth day when the weather turns cold. If the eggplants vary in size, adjust the quantity accordingly.

* "Yaku" here means to cook (rice).
* "Tōyō" means "for immediate use."
* "Tabai" means "storage" or "to store."

Pickled Melon

Split the white melon in two, pickle in salt, and place in a tub. When using, remove the salt. Use like dried melon.

Light Pickling

Cut the tops and bottoms of daikon radishes and align them (Nerima), add one to five sho of koji, one sho and three go of salt, press with a large stone of two to, and the water will rise in four or five days. Use after one month.

Pickled Plums

For Maruyama plums, take one sho of flawless plums, steam three sho, remove the flesh, mix salt into this flesh, and pickle the one sho of plums in it. Do not let air in.

* Reference: "Complete Collection of Japanese Cooking Methods (Pickled Plums/Maruyama Plums)" (National Diet Library Digital Collection)

Author's note: ● indicates characters that could not be deciphered.
I will update this as I decipher new characters or notice typos and misreadings. For more details, please read the "Self-Introduction/Disclaimer" section. 📖