[Travel Tales of the West/Shiba Kōkan] (18) Departing from Hirado, passing through Karatsu and Imari, and arriving in Fukuoka

On the 8th of the first month, I departed from Hirado Island and traveled one ri to the Taira ferry. From there, it is three ri to Mikuriya, and another one ri to a place called Tsukinokawa, where I stayed at the residence of a shrine official. It is deep in the mountains. This road follows the coastline and the scenery is good. From Tsukinokawa, it is one ri to Shisaku Village. Passing through here, it is two ri to Imafuku, and after passing a place called Nameribae, it is four ri to Hisahara. All of these overlook the bay. Traveling another three ri, I stayed in Imari. This domain is the territory of Lord Nabeshima, and it produces pottery. Ōkawachi Mountain and Arita Mountain are where the ceramics produced in these mountains are sent throughout Japan.

On the 10th, it was cold with wind and snow. There are many mountains on this road. Yashiki Nomura can be seen halfway up the mountain. This place is the border between Karatsu and Imari. From there, I reached Tokusue. This distance is three ri. I stayed at a place called Hamasaki. There are many mountains in this area.

There are seven islands between Tsukinokawa and Mikuriya
Arita Mountain, Saga Mountain, Karatsu Mountain, Haze Village

Ōkawachi Mountain: In this mountain, they climb for three ri to make pottery
Kusuku Village, Kuki Island, Maki Island

View from the road between Shisaku and Imafuku, looking north
Take Island, Hoshika-no-Ura
A tuna tower in the sea is called a 'floating seirō'

View from the road toward Imafuku: Iki Province

On the 11th, I departed from Tokusue and traveled two and a half ri to reach Yoshii Village, where there is the Yoshii River. Crossing it, I came out to the seashore. To the right is the Western Sea, and the castle of Karatsu can be seen across the bay (it is the castle town of Lord Mizuno, 60,000 koku). Traveling another one and a half ri, I reached Fukae, and after passing two ri, I stayed at a place called Maebaru. During this time, I passed under Mt. Ikazuchi in Chikuzen. The shape of the mountain is like a Chinese painting. Snow is falling in patches in the valleys, making them white. There is a Fudō Hall at the summit. There is also a waterfall.

On the 12th, I left Maebaru and traveled two ri to reach Imajuku. Traveling another two ri, I reached a place called Meinohama, where houses continue, and after passing one ri, I arrived in Fukuoka (the castle town of Lord Kuroda, 500,000 koku). From there, it is half a ri to Hakata. There are many wealthy merchants (this is where Chinese ships used to dock in the past; Hakata-ori was made in Kyoto, but that production no longer exists).

To the west is the sea, to the south are mountains, and the soil is red. Bitter oranges are planted in every house (they are always used for vinegar). As for the scenery, Dendrobium naturally grows in the mountains and valleys. Coal is also produced.

On the 15th of the first month, I stayed in this area and watched what is called the 'Pine Forest.' On that day, every house prepared sake and food to celebrate. However, the merchants of Hakata wore hemp kataginu (shoulder garments), wore tachitsuke (tight-fitting trousers) on the bottom, tied a three-shaku hand towel over them, wore a hood on their heads, wore straw sandals, and entered the Fukuoka castle grounds,

Arriving at the entrance, I drank sake and returned. This is called 'Matsubayashi'. When I asked for the reason, I was told that in the old days, Hakata was a port for ships from China, much like Nagasaki is today. It was not part of the Fukuoka domain. Therefore, the elegance of that time still remains today. In recent times, they bring out dance floats or other parade items. The Kushida Shrine is the most important grand shrine in Hakata. There is a pleasure district called Yanagimachi and others.

On the 16th, I left Hakata and traveled half a ri to Hakozaki. There is Meinohama. Up to this point, houses continue. Hakozaki Hachimangu, from there I passed through a pine forest to a place called Aoyagi, four ri away. During this stretch, the Uminonakamichi is visible. Ainoshima and Nokonoshima can be seen, and the scenery is beautiful. Then, entering the mountains, after passing two ri, there is a post town called Unemachi. Traveling two ri, I stayed overnight in Akama.

Bridge over the Moromi River: over 70 ken
Sakayama, Chikuzen Mountain, overlapping with dense wrinkles

Matsubayashi
Hakata merchants go to Fukuoka