[Onna Daigaku Takarabako] (24) Hairpiece Seller
The practice of women styling their hair began with Emperor Tenmu. In those days, all women wore their hair hanging down. It is said that the Sun Goddess, Amaterasu Omikami, used a 'Yasaka no Iotsu no Misumaru' (a string of many jewels) to tie up her hair and wrap her arms. This is the evidence.
* "Sagegami" refers to hanging hair. Reference: "Koeki Zokusetsu Ben (Sagegami)" (National Diet Library Digital Collections)
* "Yasaka no" refers to the Yasaka no Magatama, one of the Three Sacred Treasures.
* "Iotsu no Misumaru" refers to many jewels strung together. Yasaka no Iotsu no Misumaru.
* The reading of "Kamitsunata" is uncertain, but it seems to be read as "mizunataki" or "miinadaki".
* "Tatamuki" also seems to be read as "tadamuki," "tafusa," "tabusa," or "kaina".
As time passed, various names emerged. These include Kagoshima, Kogai, Shimada, Hyogo, Musubi-Shimada, Tamagawa, Toriage-Shimada, Yoshiwara-wage, and Take-no-fushi.
* "Wage" refers to a chignon or topknot.
* Following "Kagoshima" are names of hairstyles: Kogai (hairpin), Shimada, Hyogo, Musubi-Shimada, Tamagawa (Tamagawa-Shimada), Toriage-Shimada, Yoshiwara-wage, and Take-no-fushi. Reference: "Kinsei Sesoshi" (National Diet Library Digital Collections)
* "Onaga-kamoji" is a type of hairpiece that is thick and long.
* "Kamoji" refers to hair added when styling one's hair.
Even so, simple styles like Shimada and Kogai are considered best. The current trend of 'Yasushi' is a courtesan style and is not very good.
* "Imayo" means contemporary style or modern fashion.
* "Kami no ochigai" refers to a hair buyer. These were women who bought and collected fallen hair to make hairpieces. They were apparently called "Ochiyanai".
Source: National Diet Library Digital Collections "Hyakunin Joro Shinadagame"
[Reference]
Source: National Diet Library Digital Collections "Kinsei Onna Fuzokuko"
Source: National Diet Library Digital Collections "Kinsei Onna Fuzokuko"
Source: National Diet Library Digital Collections "Ifuku to Ryuko"
Source: National Diet Library Digital Collections "Ifuku to Ryuko"
Source: National Diet Library Digital Collections "Rekisei Joso Ko: Vol. 4 Winter"
|Shimada-mage (Shimada hairstyle)|
One should observe that the Shimada hairstyle has a long history. It originated from the courtesans of Shimada-juku, and since then, there have been various styles, such as the O-Shimada, Yatsushi-Shimada, Shimetsuke-Shimada, Nage-Shimada, and Bunkin-Shimada. The Bunkin-Shimada is elegant and refined, so it remains popular today, and until recent years, styles like the Watayui and Itako-gata were also practiced.
Now, the origin of the popular forms of the Shimada hairstyle lies mainly in the pleasure quarters. The reason for this is, needless to say, that geisha and others generally have a custom of styling their hair in the Shimada fashion, whether they are older or young (it is rare for geisha to wear the Maru-mage hairstyle; although there are cases where they may wear a Maru-mage when forced by circumstances to accompany a client, there is a tendency in teahouses and waiting houses to dislike the Maru-mage on geisha, so it is not popular in that society. Therefore, one should know that the novelty of fashion lies in the Shimada style).
|Hyogo-mage (Hyogo hairstyle)|
This style began to become popular before the Genroku era, and it is said to have originated from the courtesans of Hyogo in Settsu Province. Nowadays, it is rare to see people wearing their hair in this style; it is considered a low-class custom.
* Reference: "Rekisei Josōkō (Study of Historical Women's Attire): Vol. 4 Winter (On Kamoji)", "Dai Nihon Kokugo Jiten (Great Japanese Dictionary) Vol. 1 (Kamoji)", "Dai Nihon Kokugo Jiten Vol. 3 (Nagakamoji)", "Kinsei Bungei Sōsho (Early Modern Literature Series) No. 10", "Chūchō Jijitsu (Facts about the Middle Dynasty)", "Pocket Chūchō Jijitsu", "Jirui Kun-gi (Dictionary of Characters and Meanings) Vol. 2", "Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan) Vol. 1", "Zōho Gagen Shūran (Expanded Collection of Elegant Words): Vol. 57, 2", "Dai Nihon Chishi Taikei (Great Japanese Geography Series) Vol. 3", "Nihon Sokumen-shi (Side History of Japan): Focusing on Emotional Great Figures", "Katei Nenjū Gyōji (Annual Family Events) (Taregami (Hanging Hair))", "Dai Nihon Kokugo Jiten Vol. 3 (Tadamuki)", "Ruijū Meibutsu Kō (Classified Study of Famous Products) Vol. 1", "Nik-ka Shin Jiten (New Japanese-Chinese Dictionary) (Tenpatsu (Hairpiece))", "Kurokawa Mayori Zenshū (Complete Works of Kurokawa Mayori) Vol. 4 History/Customs (Ancient Japanese Women's Customs)", "Wakan Gazoku Iroha Jiten (Japanese-Chinese Elegant and Common Iroha Dictionary) Revised Edition (Katsura (Wig))", "Ifuku to Ryūkō (Clothing and Trends) (History of Mage (Topknots)) (Hair Styles)", "Nihon Shakai Jii (Dictionary of Japanese Society) Vol. 1", "Nihon Shakai Jii (Dictionary of Japanese Society) Vol. 2", "Rekisei Josōkō: Vol. 4 (Origins of Shimada Mage)", "Rekisei Josōkō: Vol. 4 Winter (Kaugaiwage)", "Sokuhatsu Annai (Guide to Bound Hair) (History of Women's Hairstyling)", "Wakan Sansai Zue (Illustrated Sino-Japanese Encyclopedia) Vol. 3 (Miki (Branch))" (National Diet Library Digital Collections)
Author's Note: ● indicates characters that could not be deciphered. I will update this as new characters are deciphered or if I notice any typos or misreadings. For more details, please read the "Self-Introduction/Disclaimer" section. 📖