Memories of the Gion Festival in Kyoto, Where I Spent Two Weeks

An important month for me has come to an end. Yes, the Gion Festival was the reason I decided to move to Kyoto. After spending two weeks visiting the festival venues, I was once again overwhelmed by the way this city continues to uphold its traditions. Traditions that blend into daily life, the meaning behind every single ritual, and the beautiful Yamaboko floats, often called moving museums. It moved my heart in ways I cannot put into words.

I wanted to remember that time, so I took many photos. Since I am not confident that I can express it all in words, I would like to summarize these moving moments with photos and just a few words.

Saki Matsuri (Pre-festival) - Assembly of Yamaboko Floats to Hikizome (First Pulling)

First, the Gion Festival is broadly divided into two parts: the Saki Matsuri and the Ato Matsuri. Strictly speaking, many Gion Festival-related events take place throughout July, but the highlight is the Yamaboko Junko, where the floats move through the streets of Kyoto. The Saki Matsuri procession was held on July 17th, and the Ato Matsuri procession on July 24th.

And of course, before the Yamaboko procession, each float must be assembled. The way they are built using only ropes without a single nail is nothing short of art. One by one, they gradually take shape. As I watched the process carefully, I felt the depth of the staggering history and the gaze of the people involved in it.

Once the Yamaboko is assembled, a test called Hikizome is held to see if it moves properly. The Yanekata (who ride on the roof to avoid obstacles like power lines and poles) and the Ondotori (leaders) actually board the float and move it with chants.

The Yamaboko, which were just wood and rope, are decorated with ornaments and paintings, and then they move. I went every day not just to see the finished product, but to watch that process.

Saki Matsuri - Yoiyoiyama and Yoiyama

During Yoiyoiyama and Yoiyama, the atmosphere of Kyoto city changes completely into a festival mood. As the sun sets, the Komagata lanterns attached to each float are lit, and the sounds of Gion-bayashi music can be heard.

During the Yoiyama period, I was annoyed by the crowds of people at night when the streets became pedestrian-only, but the atmosphere on weekday evenings was very, very nice. Listening to the festival music, I leisurely walked around each float. There are 23 floats in the Saki Matsuri, and it took about an hour and a half to visit them all. It is interesting how they hijack the city of Kyoto within that range.

Tents are set up in front of each float, where fortune slips, chimaki rice dumplings, and amulets are sold. Thinking that this year was the year, I bought a chimaki from my favorite float.

When night falls, the atmosphere of the streets of Kyoto changes dramatically once again. The sound of the 'kon-chiki-chin' festival music heard in every location. The pleasant breeze that blows for just a moment amidst the languid heat. The calls of the vendors selling beer, yakisoba, and more. The noisy, lovable festival atmosphere and the traditional form that quietly continues to exist there. This is an atmosphere that can only be felt by being there.

Saki Matsuri (Early Festival) Yamaboko Junko (Float Procession)

Finally, the Yamaboko Junko, the highlight of the Saki Matsuri. On the day, I went out to Shijo at 8:00 AM to observe the floats before the procession and to find a spot to comfortably watch the parade.

Once the Yamaboko Junko begins, it is over in the blink of an eye. Regardless, I could not help but be moved by the beautiful floats before my eyes and the people who move them. From here on, I present the beautiful forms of all 23 Yamaboko floats.

With the procession of the Fune-boko, which displays an overwhelming presence, the Saki-matsuri procession comes to an end.

Setting aside the charm of the Yamaboko procession, often called a 'moving art museum,' what draws me in is the mystery of how quickly the city of Kyoto shifts gears. Work vehicles follow the Yamaboko, restoring traffic signals and lifting traffic restrictions, returning the city of Kyoto, which had been floating on the excitement of the Gion Matsuri, back to its daily routine.

As if it were a lie that the main streets were closed and solemn rituals were taking place, 30 minutes after the procession ended, the city of Kyoto had already returned to its daily life. I suppose I am drawn to this blend of tradition and daily life more than I even realized myself.

Tradition and culture blending into the streets of Kyoto

One thing that surprised me was that the Gion Matsuri is not something special, but rather something deeply rooted in the lives of Kyoto citizens. For example, the main street of Kyoto is closed to traffic many times during the festival. Bus schedules and bus stop locations are also changed. Needless to say, it is crowded with people.

Even in such a situation, people who work and live there go about their daily lives as usual, while keeping the atmosphere of the Gion Matsuri in the back of their minds. I cannot help but be drawn to that 'ordinariness'.

I imagine that when July comes around, I will think, 'So the Gion Festival is starting again this year,' while anticipating the languid heat and the crowds. Even so, daily life continues alongside the scenery of the Gion Festival. Perhaps because they have been doing this for so long, the Gion Festival is no longer anything special to them. As someone who loves Kyoto more than anything, I find myself envious that they can be that way.

After all, this is my first year living in Kyoto, and I can't help but feel restless. While I wish I could be the type of person who acts like it's nothing, keeping a straight face while quickly snapping a photo and going about my day, I also find that during this Gion Festival period, I want to keep my eyes fixed on the long history unfolding right before me.

For me, having moved here because I love Kyoto so much, this period is very precious. I will continue to love the Gion Festival, which makes me feel even more deeply that I love the city of Kyoto.

(Since I've already poured all my love into the Saki Matsuri, I'll write about the Ato Matsuri in a separate article.)