5 Recommended Polo Shirts for Men | How to Choose Collars and Sizes for 30-Somethings to Avoid Looking Like an 'Old Man'

Every time I put on a polo shirt, I hesitate a little in front of the mirror.

During Cool Biz season, T-shirts feel too casual, and dress shirts are too hot. Polo shirts should be the ideal middle ground, but there are days when I look strangely old-fashioned when I wear them. In fact, a colleague once said to me in the breakroom, 'You look like a section manager today.' I don't think they meant any harm, but it bothered me for a while.

From then on, I started observing what makes someone look like an 'old man.' Today, I'll share the answer and the five shirts I actually wear.

The true culprits of the 'old man' look are the 'collar' and 'size'

After comparing various options, I realized that the causes mostly boil down to two things.

First, 'the collar is limp.' After repeated washing, a polo shirt's collar loses its shape and stays open outward. A collar in this state instantly creates an outdated impression. Conversely, just having a firm, standing collar makes you look surprisingly younger. That's why I prioritize the collar construction when choosing. A thick collar or a button-down style that secures the collar tips is a safe bet.

Next, 'the size is too big.' I honestly understand the urge to choose a size larger to hide your physique. But for polo shirts, it has the opposite effect. If there is too much fabric around the torso, it pulls away from the body, making the silhouette look boxy. That's what makes you look your age.

Sleeve length is also often overlooked. The closer the sleeve opening gets to the elbow, the older you look, so I make sure to choose a length that ends around the middle of the bicep.

Dark navy is the safest color. Next are white, black, and charcoal. Conversely, high-saturation bright colors or pastels are harder to pull off. If you're choosing your first one, dark navy is a sure thing.

Also, avoid shirts with large logos on the chest and those that are too long to tuck in. Just doing this makes a polo shirt feel much more modern.

Criteria for choosing a size (I'll write this down first)

I am 172 cm tall and weigh 65 kg, and I generally wear a size M for both shirts and T-shirts. The following sizing advice is based on this build, so please adjust accordingly.

The most important thing for a polo shirt is the shoulder width. If the shoulder seams are off the edge of your shoulders, it immediately looks sloppy. I found that the shoulder width of the polo shirt I own that fits best is 44 cm, and ever since I started using this number to compare with product pages, I haven't missed the mark on sizing.

5 Recommended Shirts

1. Lacoste L.12.12 Classic Short Sleeve Polo Shirt (The benchmark for collars)

If we're talking about collars, this is the one to start with. It's like a sample of how a polo shirt collar should be; the collar, knitted with thick yarn in a pique (textured) weave, stands up firmly on its own.

I've been wearing mine for about three years. I've washed it over 100 times at a rate of once a week, and the collar has never once rippled. It's expensive, but compared to when I used to replace cheap polo shirts every year, I think it ends up being cheaper in the long run.

I chose the Japanese size M. It's a classic fit, so it doesn't constrict the body, yet there's no excess fabric around the torso. I avoid using the dryer and just wash it in the machine and hang it to dry. Since standard colors are always available, ordering a dark navy one to be delivered to my home was a sure bet.

2. United Athle 5.3 oz Dry Pique Utility Polo Shirt 505001 (The practical choice for business casual)

This is my go-to for days when I don't want to spend too much on something I wear every day. It's a 5.3 oz (a unit of fabric weight; the higher the number, the thicker) pique knit that is quick-drying, making it comfortable even for sweaty commutes.

Since these are standard items, the size and color are consistently available, so if you like them, you can buy more. I rotate one white and one navy shirt, and when they wear out, I replenish them with the same model number. This 'no-brainer' approach makes getting ready in the morning much easier.

A size M is just right, with the length covering my belt. It looks good both tucked in and left out. I've washed them about 30 times over the summer, and I haven't noticed any shrinkage or sagging in the collar.

3. United Athle Button-Down Polo Shirt 5052-01 (Peace of mind with a collar that doesn't spread)

I chose another shirt from the same brand because this is the direct answer to the 'collars that flop' problem. The material is the same dry pique as number 2, but since the collar tips can be buttoned down, they physically cannot spread. It's easy to understand if you think of it as the same fabric but with a different collar.

This is especially effective on days when I wear a jacket. If the collar flops, the neckline looks sloppy, but with a button-down, you don't have to worry about that. I almost always choose this one on days I visit clients.

Since they come in a two-pack, it's practical to stock up on spares. The body is cut a bit slim, so a size M is perfect. Because the button-down adds a sense of formality, it's better to wear it in a size that fits just right.

4. Champion C3-F356 Pique Polo Shirt (Casual choice for days off)

This is a 100% cotton pique shirt with a soft feel. The C logo on the left chest is small and not too assertive, so even for me, someone who wants to avoid polos with prominent logos, it didn't bother me.

The front and back lengths are slightly different, and there are slits on the sides of the hem. Thanks to this design, it looks neat even when worn untucked. On days off when I go out with my daughter, this and a pair of jeans are pretty much all I need.

A size M is just right, and since it's cotton, the length shrank by about a finger's width after about 10 washes. It doesn't dry as quickly as moisture-wicking materials, but if you prioritize skin feel, this is the one. I've accepted that I'll use them for different purposes.

5. Glimmer 4.4 oz Dry Polo Shirt 00302-ADP (Practicality for midsummer and spares)

This is my go-to for sweltering days. It's made of polyester, so it's light and dries quickly even if you sweat. It also has UV protection, which was helpful on days when I spent a lot of time walking outside.

Out of these five, this is the only one where I chose a size L. It has a slim cut, and the M felt tight around the shoulders. Even if you are 'usually an M,' sizes can shift by one depending on the brand, so it's safer to check the shoulder width measurements before ordering.

To be honest, the texture of the fabric is clearly more sporty compared to the cotton ones. I wouldn't choose this for visiting clients, but on days spent in the office or days with a lot of travel in the summer, I find this functionality more appreciated. They are easy to get, so they are suitable for stocking up on multiple spares.

Recommended usage map by scene

Here is how I use them.

• Days I want to look sharp: Lacoste L.12.12 (Dark navy, collar stands on its own)

• Days visiting clients: United Athle Button-Down (Collar doesn't spread)

• Commuting staple: United Athle 505001 (White and navy, easy to buy more)

• Days off: Champion C3-F356 (Cotton feel)

• For sweltering days and office work: Glimmer 00302-ADP (Lightweight and quick-drying)

If you only choose one, I recommend a dark navy button-down. Just by keeping the collar from sagging, you eliminate half the reasons for looking like an old man.

Compare the shoulder width measurements with a shirt you already own before ordering. I do this check in the few minutes after I put my daughter to bed. Even if I don't have time to go to a store, I'm grateful that I can calmly choose the size and color.

Just having a standing collar can make you look five years younger.

I checked the polo shirt I was wearing on a day someone told me I looked like a 'section manager.' Sure enough, the collar was lying flat and open, and the width was baggy.

It wasn't that the clothes themselves were bad; it was a problem of how I chose them and how I cared for them. Look at the collar construction and size down one step. That alone is enough to make a polo shirt something a 30-something can wear properly.

The Cool Biz season is still ongoing. I would be happy if even one more person could feel comfortable wearing a polo shirt.