Mitsumata Forest Fairies and a Cozy Cafe Found by Chance: Mt. Keisoku and Mt. Yakimori
Around the time of the spring equinox in March, I went to a Mitsumata (paper bush) colony that I had wanted to see for a year. I wasn't sure where to go, but I chose the Mt. Yakimori Mitsumata colony in Motegi Town, Haga District, Tochigi Prefecture.
Just seeing the Mitsumata would have been fine, but since I was going, I wanted to climb a mountain too.
So, I climbed Mt. Keisoku and Mt. Yakimori, which surround the Mitsumata colony.
Both are low mountains of about 430m, so it was a relaxing hike!
The Mitsumata colony is well-managed and requires an admission fee, but the visiting period has been extended until March 31st. See below.
You can visit without climbing the mountain, so it's a spot you can fully enjoy just for the Mitsumata.
- Route
Looking at the map, Mt. Keisoku is on the border between Ibaraki and Tochigi Prefectures.
The route I chose this time was:
Mt. Keisoku Parking Lot -> Mt. Keisoku -> Mitsumata Colony -> Mt. Yakimori -> Mt. Keisoku Parking Lot,
a route that enters from Ibaraki Prefecture, loops through Tochigi Prefecture, and returns to Ibaraki Prefecture.
The brown line in the center is the border between Ibaraki and Tochigi Prefectures
- Access
If using public transportation, it seems you take an Ibaraki Kotsu bus from Mito Station, but it takes an endless amount of time. I felt that for anyone other than locals, driving is generally the standard.
The Mt. Keisoku parking lot has been expanded and can now accommodate about 70 cars (as of March 2024).
(Confirmed with the Shirosato Town Tourism Association)
It seems the parking lot fills up early even on weekdays during the Mitsumata season.
There is a restroom, and you can see the arrow sign for the trailhead in the back
Although it was a weekday, since it was the peak of the Mitsumata season, I left before 5:00 AM, wanting to arrive by 7:00 AM. I got off at the Tomobe IC on the Joban Expressway from the Shinjuku area and arrived at 7:00 AM as planned.
The large parking lot was still empty, and I breathed a sigh of relief.
It was about -1 degree Celsius, but I didn't feel that cold. It's spring.
- Departing for Mt. Keisoku
I started from the back of the parking lot toward the trailhead.
I love this moment of starting out.
Going up a narrow path
Even though they are low mountains, a mountain is still a mountain.
It's quite a steep slope at the beginning, so it's pretty tough to climb right from the start.
The first 30 minutes or so are always tough. I feel like after climbing for about 30 minutes, my body warms up, and I get used to it, which makes the difficulty feel less intense.
I arrived at Akazawa Fuji about 15 minutes after the sign mentioned earlier.
There were no specific signposts up to this point, but it wasn't a confusing path.
Continuing further, you will reach the Fujigadaira junction.
The trailhead for Mt. Keisoku is located here, but it is a bit hard to spot at first glance, so be careful not to accidentally keep walking along the wide path.
The Mt. Keisoku trailhead is behind the sign in the back left.
There were plenty of signs from Akazawa-Fuji to Mt. Keisoku.
And in about 15 minutes, I arrived at the summit of Mt. Keisoku!! That was fast!
The summit itself doesn't have much of a view, but there was a lookout spot a little further ahead, so I headed toward that...
Wow! A stunning panorama is spread out before me!!
I was once again thrilled by this magnificent view, which I couldn't believe was at an altitude of only 430 meters.
"It is said that when Kobo Daishi was staying in this area during the Heian period and performing Goma fire rituals, he heard the crowing of a rooster. When he climbed the mountain, he found a large rock shaped like a rooster's comb, and thinking 'perhaps that rock cried out,' he named this mountain Mt. Keisoku (Rooster Foot Mountain)."
That is what was written on the sign.
This is the Gomadan-ishi (Goma-burning stone), where Kobo Daishi is said to have performed his ascetic practices by burning Goma.
The view from here is also good, and I felt it would be a comfortable place for ascetic training.
I can't really tell, though...
It looks a bit like the Statue of Liberty, and maybe also like an ancient Roman gladiator?
The Rooster Rock is a bit off the route, but since I've come this far, I want to see it.
After descending a fairly steep slope, the rock comes into view.
I suppose it might look like a rooster's comb if you think of it that way.
It's hard to tell what it is in silhouette...
- To the Mitsumata Colony -
Returning to the junction, it's finally time to head to the Mitsumata colony!!
After descending through the forest belt for about 20 minutes from Keiseki, I arrived at a river.
It seems I need to cross that river and head toward the parking lot.
This parking lot is the No. 2 parking lot exclusively for the Mitsumata colony.
The Mitsumata colony I've been looking for is just ahead!!
As I continued, the path was a well-maintained forest road, so it seemed many people come just to see the Mitsumata.
It takes about 5 minutes from the No. 2 parking lot to the entrance of the Mitsumata colony. There is space for a few cars in front of the entrance, but perhaps that's for staff?
The No. 1 parking lot seems to be further away, so maybe it was located further back.
(1) No. 1 Parking Lot (approx. 1 km to the colony)
- Available all day
(2) No. 2 Parking Lot (approx. 300 m to the colony)
- Available from 7:00 to 15:30
(Listed on the website below)
I paid 500 yen as a conservation contribution fee for entry.
Now, I can finally meet the long-awaited Mitsumata!
As soon as you enter, you are greeted by a tunnel of Mitsumata.
Little yellow fairies hanging from the tips of branches, looking so delicate as if they might fall off.
The golden tunnel they create while bathed in the morning light is simply breathtaking.
Ah, I can't stop clicking the shutter. Photographers were setting up their tripods to take pictures.
I must have been there for about 40 minutes. I was completely healed and happy, enchanted by the golden fairies.
I love rocks, but the real thrill of the mountains is experiencing the joy of both the steep and the gentle.
Replenished with golden-colored nourishment, on to the next mountain!
— To Mt. Yakimori
There were little patches of Mitsumata blooming along the forest road after leaving the colony, which made me feel like I'd gotten a bonus.
After walking along the forest road for a while, there was a narrow path branching off to the right, and the climb became steep from there. The entrance to the narrow path is a bit hard to spot and easy to miss.
There were many junctions on the way to Mt. Yakimori, and there were places where I almost got lost.
I arrived at the summit of Mt. Yakimori in less than 30 minutes from the Mitsumata colony.
I think the scenic spot on Mt. Keisoku is more recommended for the view.
The descent goes through a beautiful forest zone and then joins a paved forest road halfway down.
It was a gentle, non-tiring descent.
From Mt. Yakimori onwards, there are many signs, so there's no risk of getting lost.
I finished the descent about 30 minutes after leaving Mt. Yakimori. It was more of a hike than a mountain climb, but since it was a hike to see the Mitsumata, it was very fulfilling. Thoroughly enjoyed it.
At 10:30 AM, when I returned, the parking lot was full.
— The fun cafe appeared suddenly...
As usual, I had a cafe I wanted to visit after this low mountain hike.
But, but, but, it was closed.
My research was poor. I had prepared two candidates, but both were closed.
Oh no!
I was hungry, so I kept my eyes peeled for a cafe on the way home, desperate to find somewhere to have lunch.
Yes, actually, I had noticed an intriguing sign on the way there.
I want to find that sign again.
I think it was on the right...
There it is!! It was just there, wasn't it!!
With my head spinning from a sharp U-turn, the song 'That day, at that time, in that place' played in my mind.
And then, I found it—this sign.
I saw this sign about three times before I finally arrived here.
So stylish!!
Passing through the arcade, a lovely garden spread out before me.
I was told that I could have lunch if I went inside.
This cafe was started 13 years ago, and the owner takes care of the entire garden herself.
'The cherry blossoms will be blooming soon, too,' she said.
The warm-hearted owner prepared lunch for me even though it's by reservation only.
'It will take a little time, but please stay and eat if you'd like.'
The interior of the cafe was also done by her own hands, and it is full of warmth.
Feeling happy, I asked her many questions while my stomach growled with hunger.
The vegetables used in the lunch are grown in her own garden.
She is very particular about her ingredients, and her passion for them is written on her website.
'Mon livre' means 'my book' in French, and it was named with the hope that people would relax and immerse themselves in books.
There were many books that were just to my taste.
Just as a delicious aroma began to drift through the cafe,
'Sorry to keep you waiting,'
she said as she brought out this lunch.
How luxurious!!
I savored every bite of this feast, which was even better than I had imagined.
The flavors really highlighted the ingredients, and it was absolutely delicious.
It was quite a large portion, but since I was starving, I finished every last bit!
I finished with coffee. I realized later that it was a tea specialty shop and thought I should have ordered tea, but the coffee was mild and delicious too.
I spent over an hour relaxing, and left the cafe feeling deeply satisfied and happy from the pleasant conversation and the leisurely time.
They are only open on certain days, so please check before you visit!
With Mitsumata flowers, a cafe, and my favorite mountain climbing, it was a truly happy time.
Even with the same scenery or the same food, the story of how I reached them adds vividness to my memories.
I am so glad I started mountain climbing again.
My journey exploring the charm of low mountains will continue.
Distance: 6.3km
Cumulative Elevation (ascent/descent): 598m/597m
Time: 3 hours 23 minutes (including 18 minutes of rest)