[Wishing Upon a Fish of Success] Why do people in landlocked prefectures eat yellowtail? The epic story hidden behind the 'New Year's fish' salted yellowtail

Hello! Yellowtail is that magnificent fish of success that is indispensable for New Year's and celebratory occasions.

Do you think fresh yellowtail can only be eaten along the coast? In fact, even in deep mountain regions far from the sea, yellowtail has long been prized as a "must-have fish for the New Year."

What made this miracle possible was an epic logistics route that has continued since the Edo period, known as the "Yellowtail Highway"!

In this article, we will introduce the passionate culture and history surrounding yellowtail, especially among the "New Year's fish" that brighten up the Japanese year-end and New Year holidays.

1. What is a New Year's fish? A symbol that invites "good fortune" for the New Year

The "New Year's fish" eaten at the end of the year refers to an auspicious fish that is essential for the New Year's Eve meal and the New Year's feast to celebrate the new year.

This has a strong meaning as an offering to welcome the Toshigami (deity of the year) in the new year, and it has been offered with wishes for the happiness and prosperity of the family.

2. The star of Western Japan! The passionate reasons why yellowtail is chosen

Why has yellowtail been so specially regarded as the "New Year's fish" in Western Japan among so many other fish?

The biggest reason lies in its overwhelming auspiciousness as a "fish of success."

• Symbol of career advancement: Yellowtail, which changes its name as it grows (e.g., Hamachi -> Mejiro -> Buri), was perfect as a symbol for wishing for "career advancement" and "family prosperity." It has been eaten with those wishes in mind, especially in regions where samurai families and commerce flourished.

• Wealth and dignity: Because yellowtail is large and the season when it is caught is winter (cold yellowtail), when it is at its fattest, it was also a symbol of luxurious and precious "wealth" and "dignity."

• Seasonal bounty: Since it is in season during the coldest time of the year, the year-end and New Year holidays, the nutritious and delicious yellowtail was a special feast for surviving the cold winter.

3. A miracle of logistics! The background of how "salted yellowtail" was delivered to the inland

In those days, when fresh fish was not as readily available as it is today, eating yellowtail in a landlocked, mountainous country was truly a major event. This is where 'salted yellowtail,' which had enhanced shelf life, played a vital role.

The romance of the 'Yellowtail Road'

Yellowtail caught on the Sea of Japan side, particularly in Toyama (such as Himi), had their internal organs removed, were salted, and were transported over the mountains by people. This became the epic distribution route later known as the'Yellowtail Road'.

• Long-term preservation: By using a salting process, it became possible to transport fish over long distances while maintaining freshness.

• Cultural fusion: Thanks to this logistics network, the culture of eating yellowtail for the New Year took firm root even in Shinshu (such as the Matsumoto and Ina regions of Nagano Prefecture), far from the sea. How happy the local people must have been when the salted yellowtail arrived.

4. The boundary line dividing East and West: The culture of salmon and yellowtail

The Japanese culture of 'New Year's fish' is broadly divided into two by region.

Classification | Fish Species | Main Regions | Origin of Good FortuneWestern Japan | Yellowtail (Buri) | Hokuriku, Kinki, Chugoku, Shikoku, Kyushu, Central/Southern Nagano Prefecture etc. | Fish of success | Wishing for career advancement.Eastern Japan | Salmon (Sake) | Hokkaido, Tohoku, Kanto, Northern Nagano Prefecture etc. | Associated with 'prospering,' wishing for the prosperity of descendants (using salmon roe/ikura).

This boundary line is said to be located roughly near the Itoigawa-Shizuoka Tectonic Line (Fossa Magna). It is interesting that even within the same Nagano Prefecture, culture is mixed, with salmon in the north and yellowtail in the central and southern regions.

5. Ways of eating salted yellowtail rooted in the region (Example of Nagano Prefecture)

The salted yellowtail that was transported from afar has been prepared using methods unique to each locality and cherished.

• Matsumoto region (Nagano Prefecture): 'Boiling' is the tradition. By boiling it without removing the salt, the perfect level of saltiness and unique umami are brought out.

• Kamiina region (Nagano Prefecture): Sake lees are used to simmer the fish, a cooking method rich in flavor.

• Iida region (Nagano Prefecture): A way of eating where you enjoy the savory aroma by desalinating it and then grilling it.

Even just looking at how salted yellowtail is eaten, you can see that the food culture and climate of the region are strongly reflected.

In modern times, it has become more common to enjoy raw yellowtail as sashimi or in yellowtail shabu-shabu, but it is also wonderful to order the traditional "salted yellowtail" just for the end of the year and reflect on the thoughts of people from the distant past.