[Time Slip!] The Grand History of Yellowtail: The King of Fish That Went from Ancient Deity to 'Symbol of Success'!

Everyone, yellowtail (buri), which graces our winter dining tables, is more than just a delicious fish. Its history begins in the Jomon period and is a grand story that reflects the evolution of Japanese social structure, faith, and logistics!

How did the 'King of Success Fish,' yellowtail, become a symbol of Japan's 'Hare-no-hi' (special occasions)? From ancient times to the present, let's take a deep dive into the curious history of the food culture that yellowtail has walked!

1. Jomon and Yayoi Periods: Yellowtail Was Already a 'Blessing of Life'!

In ancient times, without refrigeration or distribution networks, large, nutrient-rich yellowtail were an extremely precious food source for the people.

• The truth told by ruins: In the shell mounds and ruins of the Jomon and Yayoi periods, yellowtail bones have been excavated alongside those of red sea bream and sea bass. This is irrefutable evidence that people have been catching yellowtail as an important source of protein since ancient times.

• Ancient survival techniques: The main ways to cook yellowtail at the time were grilling over an open flame or boiling. However, it is presumed that processing techniques such as drying or salting—the origins of later dried fish and salted products (salted yellowtail)—also began in this era to preserve large fish and transport them inland.

2. Kofun and Asuka Periods: Becoming a 'Tribute' Offered to Gods and Rulers

As centralization progressed after the Yayoi period, yellowtail elevated its status from commoner food to a 'symbol of authority'.

• Ritsuryo system and tribute goods: When the Ritsuryo system (such as the Taiho Code) was established in the Asuka period, local specialties began to be presented to the central Imperial Court as 'tribute.' Large salted yellowtail caught in winter became a prime example of this and were transported as far as the inland capital of Kyoto.

• Sacred fish: Yellowtail was highly valued as a sacred fish offered at religious rituals and celebratory banquets. This status as a tribute item further enhanced the value of yellowtail, cementing its image as a symbol of 'wealth' and 'authority' in later years.

3. Heian and Kamakura Periods: Fermentation Technology Deepens Yellowtail Culture

During this era, 'long-term preservation technology' evolved, allowing yellowtail food culture to take deep root in the regions.

• The birth of 'Narezushi': The technique of lactic acid fermentation known as 'narezushi', where fish is salted and then pickled with rice, became widespread. This was the wisdom of our ancestors to make yellowtail, a precious source of protein, edible for long periods.

• Roots of Local Cuisine: This fermentation technology leads to the roots of the "Kabura-zushi" (turnip sushi) and the aged fermented food made from yellowtail innards known as "Heshiko", which are traditional winter foods in the Hokuriku region today. Yellowtail established its status as the ultimate preserved food that sustains the dining table during the harsh winter season.

4. Edo Period: The 'Fish of Success' Belief and the Establishment of the 'Yellowtail Road'

Entering the Edo period, yellowtail permeated the lives of commoners as a lucky charm, and a grand logistics route was born.

• Wishes for Success: Yellowtail, which is a "Shusse-uo" (fish that changes its name as it grows), was treated as the ultimate lucky charm for samurai and commoners alike who wished for "career advancement."

• "Toshitori-uo" Culture: In Western Japan, the culture of eating salted yellowtail on New Year's Eve or New Year's Day as a "Toshitori-uo" (year-taking fish) became established. It served as an offering to the deity of the new year (Toshigami-sama) and became the counterpart to the salted salmon of Eastern Japan.

• The Custom of 'Yome-buri': A custom also emerged where a daughter's parents would gift a whole yellowtail to her new family, both to report that she is a good "Yome-buri" (a good bride) working hard in her new home and to wish for the success of their son-in-law.

• Miraculous Transport: To eat yellowtail in Shinshu and Hida, which are far from the sea, a trade route known as the "Yellowtail Road" was established, crossing the snow-covered mountains from Toyama on the Sea of Japan side.

• 'Symbol of Wealth': Due to the life-risking efforts of the "Bokka" (porters) who handled the transport, yellowtail was traded at an astonishing price several times higher than the beach price in Toyama by the time it reached the inland areas. At the time, yellowtail was a "symbol of prosperity" so significant that it was said "one fish was equivalent to a bale of rice."

5. Modern Era: From Luxury Item to 'Taste of the Masses'

After World War II, the food culture surrounding yellowtail reached another major turning point.

• The Advent of Aquaculture (Hamachi): From the 1960s onwards, yellowtail aquaculture (Hamachi farming) was commercialized in Japan. Hamachi, the young yellowtail, began to be supplied stably and cheaply regardless of the season, and it quickly spread nationwide as a taste for the masses.

• Diversification of Food Culture: As distribution networks developed and fresh wild yellowtail became available even in inland areas, the food culture that once centered on salted yellowtail shifted to dishes that highlight its freshness, such as sashimi and yellowtail shabu-shabu.

From an offering to the gods in ancient times, to a preserved food in the Middle Ages, and a lucky charm in the early modern period, the yellowtail has supported the lives and spirits of the Japanese people while constantly changing its form. The next time you see yellowtail on your dining table, why not take a moment to reflect on its magnificent history?