The Origin of the Aoi Matsuri! The Mikage Matsuri, Japan's Oldest Procession of the Deities

The newly born Aramitama (rough spirit).
When you hear about the depths of the Aoi Matsuri and a festival featuring Japan's oldest procession of the deities, what comes to mind? Is it a golden portable shrine carried amidst spirited shouts?
However, the Aoi Matsuri, which colors the early summer of Kyoto, has a slightly different flavor.

Among the month-long grand festivities, there is a ritual that is the most mysterious and retains the most 'primordial atmosphere.' That is the Mikage Matsuri.

I will report on Japan's oldest procession of the deities, which is said to have continued from long before the birth of Heian-kyo.

Welcoming the 'Aramitama' just born in the mountains

'A festival without a portable shrine?'
Some of you might find that strange.

The star of the Mikage Matsuri is not a portable shrine, but a sacred horse.

The core of this festival is to carry the 'Aramitama'—the fresh yet wild spirit of the deity newly born at Mikage-yama at the foot of Mt. Hiei—on the back of a horse to welcome it to Shimogamo Shrine.
The primitive form of faith, where 'a deity is newly reborn,' still lives on here.

The deity of Shimogamo Shrine does not originally stay inside the shrine all the time. When the rice-planting season arrives, the deity descends to a nearby mountain called 'Mikage-yama.' This ritual is about bringing that fresh, newly born spirit of the deity (Aramitama) to the shrine.

There is even a tradition that it has continued since 581 BC. Long before Heian-kyo was built, people were welcoming the deity from the mountains in this way.

The Kirishiba ritual and Azuma-mai dance in the fresh green 'Tadasu no Mori'

When the procession of the deities arrives at Shimogamo Shrine, the stage shifts to Tadasu no Mori (Tadasu Forest).

Amidst the dappled sunlight, the 'Kirishiba ritual' is performed by people dressed in ancient, traditional costumes.

What is dedicated here is the 'Azuma-asobi dance'.
This dance is a classical dance performed not only at the Mikage Matsuri and Aoi Matsuri, but also at the Iwashimizu Festival of Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine. You will be captivated by this elegant dance that is rarely seen.

After this, the deity moves into a young Sakaki tree called 'Miare-gi' and finally enters the main hall. For the last hour, the gates are closed, and the 'welcoming of the deity' is completed quietly and with great care.

The Aoi Matsuri is a 'celebratory' greeting from the Emperor to the newly welcomed deity

The famous Aoi Matsuri on May 15th is when the Emperor's gifts (heihomotsu) are delivered to the deity, who has been infused with a new soul, with the message, 'Congratulations! Please continue to watch over the country.'

Kyoto's Three Major Festivals: 'Aoi Matsuri'! Highlights of the gorgeous historical procession 'Roto no Gi' and the solemn ritual 'Shato no Gi'

It is said that the Imperial messenger's (chokushi) ritual text contains the Emperor's prayers for national stability and the well-being of the people, such as 'may there be no wind or flood damage.'

※ For information on the Imperial messenger, please see the article on 'Japan's Three Imperial Festivals'.

Into the depths of the story with a careful guide

This time, I participated in a 'Maimai Tour' that knows all the deep charms of Kyoto.
Kyoto Tabiya guide Shinya Yoshimura's narration goes beyond mere explanation.

Participants in the Mikage Matsuri also approached me, saying, 'Did you come on Mr. Yoshimura's tour? That guide knows everything—he's so knowledgeable! When he's on TV, he really holds back and only shows about a tenth of what he knows.'

Mr. Yoshimura explained, 'This is the only festival where the deity travels on horseback.'
He taught us about the Mikage Matsuri in such an easy-to-understand way.

It is amazing that he can answer anything we ask, even about stone monuments and plants.
As expected of someone who has ranked first in the Kyoto Certification Level 1 exam for eight consecutive years, he provides a great sense of security.
His voice is easy to listen to, and his thoughtfulness regarding breaks and such is outstanding.
I was able to write this article thanks to Mr. Yoshimura. Thank you very much.

The Aoi Matsuri has begun, quietly yet powerfully.
While the gorgeous procession is wonderful, it is a moment to touch upon the 'renewal of the sacred soul' that lies at its foundation. The Mikage Matsuri gently reminds us of the respect for the invisible that lies deep within the hearts of the Japanese people.
Next time you are in Kyoto, if the timing works out, why not follow this 'story of the beginning'?

Mikage Matsuri Schedule

A Shinto ritual held every year on May 12th to welcome the deity of Shimogamo Shrine.
In the morning, the procession heads to Mikage Shrine at the western foot of Mt. Hiei (currently by motorcade).
After welcoming the new deity at the shrine at noon, the divine spirit passes through Akanomiya Shrine, transfers onto the back of a sacred horse at Chanokihara Park, and heads toward Shimogamo Shrine (in fair weather).
At Tadasu no Mori, the Kirishiba ritual is performed, and the new deity, riding on horseback along with the spirits of the gods residing in Tadasu no Mori, watches the Azuma-asobi dance (in fair weather).

9:00 Mikage Matsuri Kanpai-no-gi (Cup-offering ritual) and Procession Departure (Shimogamo Shrine Dance Pavilion)
11:00 Mikage-yama-no-gi (Mikage Shrine)
12:00 Roji-matsuri (Akanomiya Shrine)
16:45 Kirishiba Ritual (Shimogamo Shrine Approach)
17:00 Hongu-no-gi (Shimogamo Shrine Main Hall / Not open to the public)

Procession Route Shimogamo Shrine ▶ Mikage Shrine ▶ Akanomiya (Kamo-hani Shrine) ▶ Chanokihara Park ▶ Shimogamo Main Street Procession ▶ Kawai Shrine ▶ Tadasu no Mori Kirishiba ▶ Main Hall