Futagoyama, where it's okay to fall, and Hiei, where it is not
Even within the same sport of climbing, there is a spectrum ranging from places where it is okay to fall to places where it is not, and the two extremes are Futagoyama and Hiei.
The boundary between safe and dangerous falls
“Okay to fall”: On steep, solid rock faces where there are reliable anchors high up and you are thrown into the air.
“Must not fall”: On brittle, low-angle rock faces where anchors are poor, or where there are ledges below and impact is unavoidable.
It can be said that Futagoyama and Mt. Hiei are the two great sacred sites in Japanese climbing that represent opposite philosophies regarding "falling."
Because they are at opposite extremes, even climbers themselves may not be able to understand each other (laughs).
Here is a summary of the characteristics of each crag and their approach to "falling."
1. Representative of "Okay to fall": Futagoyama (Saitama)
(Steep incline × Hard limestone × Bolts)
Routes like the "Yumijo" at Futagoyama are typical examples of the "steep to overhang" mentioned in the image.
Rock quality and incline: Extremely hard, with continuous, scooped-out overhangs.
Falling behavior: When you fall, you are immediately thrown into the "air." The risk of hitting the rock is extremely low, and the rope stretch provides a soft catch.
Mindset: A style (sport climbing) that challenges your limit grade where "falling is expected" is established. The feeling is that the fall itself is part of the training.
2. Representative of "Must not fall": Mt. Hiei (Miyazaki)
(Low incline to vertical wall × Granite slabs and cracks × Alpine elements)
Mt. Hiei, especially its multi-pitch routes, is the very symbol of "must not fall." There is only one bolt for 50 meters.
Rock quality and incline: It is wonderful granite, but there are many slabs (low inclines) and ledges with steps.
Falling behavior: If you fall, you will either scrape along the rock face for a long distance or be slammed into a ledge below. Anchors are often old bolts or natural protection (NP), and there is always the fear that the gear will pull out one after another due to the impact of the fall.
Mindset: Tactics based on the premise of "never falling" are required. It is a realm of "adventure" that demands not only technique but also route-finding skills and mental strength.
Comparison summary
Precautions when transitioning from "it is okay to fall" to "it is not okay to fall"
When people accustomed to sport climbing, such as at Futago-yama, whether on artificial walls or outdoor rock, go to areas like Mount Hiei, a lack of "fear of falling" can lead directly to accidents.
At Futago-yama: "Going for it and falling" is the correct approach.
At Mount Hiei: "If you think it's dangerous, climb down a step or use A0" is the correct approach.
Whether or not you can switch between these judgment criteria is what separates the veterans.