Recommendations for the 'My Accessory Set' You Should Prepare First (Part 1: Hadajuban, Susoyoke, and Kimono Bra)
Hello everyone.
My name is kimono_iroha.
Continuing from last time, I will introduce the 'My Accessory Set' needed when wearing a kimono for the first time. This time, I will introduce three items: the hadajuban (undershirt), susoyoke (underskirt), and kimono bra.
◉ The images introduced are borrowed from the online shops of 'Shinjuku Tsudaya' / UNIQLO.
◉ Prices are as of the time of writing.
1. Hadajuban (Undershirt)
This acts as a camisole or undershirt worn directly against the skin.
Once worn, a kimono is difficult to wash (especially if it is pure silk).
This hadajuban guards your precious kimono from sebum and sweat.
Since it touches your skin directly, the trick is to choose something that is comfortable to wear and can withstand repeated washing.
・Good texture
・Excellent moisture absorption
・Durable
Any color is fine for the collar, but if you don't want it to stand out if it peeks through, white is a safe choice. Considering moisture absorption and durability, bleached cotton (sarashi) is definitely the best. I'm not saying synthetic fibers are bad, but if they are too slippery, the nagajuban (under-kimono) worn over it might slide around, potentially causing the kimono to lose its shape.
If I were to mention one more point,
'Choose one with a deep neckline'would be it.
The neckline on the back is a very troublesome area because even if your underwear is showing, you won't notice it yourself, but it is clearly visible to others.
When you are not used to wearing a kimono, if the neckline is shallow, it often peeks out from the nape of your neck, so if you are not confident in your dressing skills, it might be easier to choose one that is widely open at the back, as shown in the image below↓↓
As an aside, if you don't want to spend much money, it doesn't bother anyone, so I think it's fine to just use a tank top or T-shirt. I sometimes wear a long-sleeved Heattech shirt on cold days. However, even in this case, from the perspective of preventing the kimono from losing its shape and the final look, it might be safer to avoid the following.
✕ Slippery synthetic fiber materials
✕ Items with almost no neckline opening
2. Susoyoke (Underskirt)
Also known as 'kedashi', it plays an important role in making your leg movements smooth.
It's a story from a long time ago, but when I wore a cotton kimono that didn't slide well, the fabrics stuck together, and I couldn't move my legs forward properly, almost tripping.
From the perspective of leg movement, since it is layered directly on the legs, I personally recommend synthetic materials over natural materials.
However, just because it slides well doesn't mean any synthetic material will do, so please be careful. If you carelessly pick up polyester materials that haven't been specially treated just because they are cheap, you'll have terrible static electricity, and you won't be able to wear them at all in winter.
Here too, consider it an initial investment and the trick is to choose'High-quality synthetic material'.
Specifically,Cupro or rayon materialsare good.
There are many types of susoyoke, but looking at the representative ones, there are skirt types and wrap-around types with a bleached cotton material called 'chikaranuno' around the pelvis. In the wrap-around type, this chikaranuno part has the effect of slightly pressing and correcting the abdomen, so it is especially recommended for those who are concerned about their lower abdomen. I am no exception and love using this one.
And there is one more secret weapon I love.
It is the culotte type, which is popular among those who enjoy dancing. You might also see it under the product name 'steteco'. The reasons I love it are as follows:
・Okay for all seasons
・Just put it on quickly even when you don't have time
・Eliminates the uneasy 'breezy feeling' felt by someone who usually wears pants
・Above all, in the sweaty summer, there is no discomfort of it sticking to your thighs
It is perfect for those who want to shorten the time it takes to dress as much as possible, so please give it a try.
3. Kimono Bra
The concepts of 'push-up,' 'adding volume,' and 'defined cleavage' are for Western-style clothing. In kimono, the shortcut to a more beautiful silhouette is to avoid emphasizing the chest and instead aim for a smooth, gentle curve.
If you choose the right size, a kimono bra will compress your chest just enough without being uncomfortable, so I highly recommend it, especially for those with a larger bust. From experience, I can guarantee that simply smoothing out your chest area will make your overall kimono look significantly more sophisticated.
Furthermore, if you choose a type that allows you to insert pads into the collarbone area, you can easily adjust your neckline as well—it's truly killing two birds with one stone. I can confidently say that this is an item worth having for anyone planning to wear kimono.
To speak even more passionately, the reason I strongly recommend a kimono bra is because of the various things I have felt while working as a kimono dresser for many people.
It goes without saying that there are many different kimono dressers, and I am well aware that everyone has their own approach, but in order to achieve a more beautiful silhouette, there are many situations where we basically recommend removing your bra.
This is because the function of 'pushing up and adjusting volume' is unnecessary for kimono dressing, and additionally, as various cords are tightened during the dressing process, the underwire of the bra often digs into the body, which is highly likely to cause discomfort.
Since it is a special day, no one wants to feel uncomfortable or unwell. With that possibility in mind, we as dressers recommend not wearing a bra as much as possible, but from the perspective of the person being dressed, I think it is unreasonable to expect them not to be confused if they are suddenly told to take off their underwear in front of a stranger. It is possible that everyone has circumstances that are not visible on the surface.
When I was in charge of dressing relatives at a wedding venue, I would tell them, 'It might be more comfortable without a bra if possible, as it can sometimes cause discomfort,' but I often encountered situations where most people would struggle, saying, 'What!? Do I have to take it off? ...But I don't want to be uncomfortable...'
In fact, when I was a university student and had a furisode kimono dressed for a graduation party, a veteran dresser told me as a matter of course, 'Please take it off,' and I was quite bewildered, thinking, 'What? In a situation where there are many people? Without any privacy screen?' So I understand those feelings all too well.
However, from the dresser's point of view, it is part of a routine process, and sometimes they become desensitized (if I may be so bold) and create an atmosphere where 'taking it off is just common sense.'
To avoid such unpleasant experiences, you can prevent this situation by wearing a kimono bra from home on the day you are having someone dress you. Since wearing a kimono often involves some kind of 'special occasion,' I would personally like to suggest this as a way to avoid feeling even the slightest bit of discomfort on your big day.
4. Extra Edition: What is the correct choice? Choosing underwear for kimono
Once you have gathered the four personal essentials introduced so far, let's pay a little more attention to aiming for an even more comfortable kimono life.
There is nothing difficult about it; just keep the following points in mind.
・Seamless
・Light-colored and plain
・Low-rise
As I mentioned regarding the collar of the kimono undergarment, you can barely see your own back. However, it is almost certain that you should assume that the gaze of others is focused more intently on your back than on your front.
Looking back at my own experience, I hesitate to stare at someone's kimono style from directly in front, so a quick glance is about as much as I can manage, but I can look at their back without hesitation. Especially when I meet someone with a lovely obi, I find myself glued to it, if I may be so rude (^^;
A few years ago, when I went to the Hakataza theater with an acquaintance in kimono, I went to the restroom before the performance to fix a slight disarray and, as I was heading to the exit, I glanced at the mirror and encountered a scene where an elderly woman behind me was intently looking at the drum knot of my obi. She probably didn't think I was watching her through the mirror, but it was an event that made me realize that even though the back of a kimono is hard to notice yourself and tends to be left unguarded, it is seen by others more than you might think.
The introduction was long, but as one of the points to be careful about regarding your back, it is definitely worth making sure that your panty lines do not show. When I was a beginner, I thought, 'It should be fine since there are three layers of fabric: petticoat + kimono undergarment + kimono,' but to my surprise, I realized for the first time after I started dressing others that you really can't be that carefree. It becomes especially noticeable when bowing or picking up objects. Therefore, unless there are exceptional circumstances, I recommend a seamless type when wearing a kimono. Regarding color and pattern, if you choose a 'light-colored, plain type that blends well with your skin,' you can feel at ease even when wearing a whitish kimono.
And finally,ease of going to the restroom.
This is also an important point.
With that in mind, I would definitely recommend a low-rise type.
The reason is that it relates to the position where you tie the waist cord after putting on the kimono. The waist cord is tied quite firmly just below the navel to fix the kimono so it doesn't come undone, but if you are wearing high-rise underwear where the top edge comes above the navel, it will be locked in place by the waist cord as well. Once this happens, it's too late no matter how much you pull, and if you're unlucky, you'll end up sweating profusely in the restroom. (And it's always at times like that when you're pressed for time or in a cramped restroom where you can't move.) To avoid such unsettling situations while out, I think you will be comfortable if you choose with the motto, 'Kimono underwear should be low-rise.'
Thank you for staying with me through this long post.
I hope this will be helpful to those who think, 'I want to wear kimono from now on, but I don't know what to choose,' so I will continue to output all of my experience and knowledge to date, albeit irregularly.
If you'd like, I would be very happy if you could share your own experiences or things you'd like to know!
See you next time(^^)!
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