KFJ: Keep Finding Japan Travel off the Beaten Track Vol. 37 Kumamoto

1. Kumamoto Prefecture: Land of Kumamon

 Halfway down the west side of Kyushu, with a hearty chunk of the mainland dusted with the Amakusa Islands, Kumamoto might be argued as the heart of Kyushu, the only prefecture that is neither north nor south. Its eponymous capital is a fine large city and definitely the core of the prefecture, but there is a lot of glorious countryside to explore as well. Unlike Nagasaki or Kagoshima, where you are never far from the sea, you can get quite far inland and into the mountains, in particular the massive caldera of the volcano Mount Aso.
 Kumamoto is far more famous to Chinese tourists than to western ones, largely because one of its Ramen chains, Ajisen Ramen, has more branches in China than in Japan. I met a Chinese professor at Kumamoto University, who said that her friends back home didn’t know where she lived when she said ‘Kumamoto’, but when she said ‘Ajisen Ramen’ they all showed delighted recognition. 
 Kumamoto is also home to possibly the most famous of all yuru-kyara (the characters created to promote prefectures, cities and sights): the bear Kumamon, whom you will see everywhere here (not only in Japan?). Note that there are not any real bears here, unlike Honshu and Hokkaido.
 A trip to this prefecture should focus first on the capital, though sadly its most famous sight, Kumamoto Castle, is currently undergoing repairs after the 2016 earthquake, which have already resulted in the keep reopening, but will be ongoing for decades. Nevertheless, the city is worth staying in and also a great base for the rest of the prefecture. 
 To the north are many rural hot spring towns and to the south and southeast the castle towns of Yatsushiro and Hitoyoshi, while to the west lies the sea and the quiet Amakusa Islands, home of many of the hidden Christians in the Edo Period. 

2. History: Kiyomasa’s Great Castle

 Kumamoto Prefecture was known in mediaeval and early modern times as Higo Prefecture, the eastern part of Hinokuni (land of fire: the other part being Hizen, now Nagasaki and Saga). Evidence for settlement in earliest times such as the Jomon Period, is scanty, since volcanic eruptions may have destroyed it. 
 In the Yayoi Period Kumamoto may have been under the influence of Fukuoka’s Dazaifu, or it may have had a more autonomous government, but it is not known. 
 In the sixteenth century, Kumamoto came into focus in the campaign of Toyotomi Hideyoshi to unify Japan. He invaded Higo in 1587 and gave the land to Sassa Narimasa. However, the latter was unable to preserve order, so was ordered to commit seppuku and the province was divided between Kato Kiyomasa in the north and Konishi Yukinaga in the south. Kiyomasa was responsible for building the huge walls of Kumamoto Castle that we see today. 

3. What to See

Kumamoto City: Feel the grandeur of the walls

 Starting in the capital, Kumamoto City, Kumamoto Castle is the greatest and most impressive site of the whole prefecture, arguably of Kyushu, and dominates the city like a European cathedral, in a way that few other Japanese castles do. It is one of Japan’s most famous castles and the pride of the city and must be seen, despite the sorry state much of it is in while repairs go on. Although its huge double keep is a concrete reconstruction (externally accurate, but inside essentially a museum), there is a lot more of importance at this castle. The massive stone walls are some of the greatest and most impressive in Japan and there are a number of original buildings, most importantly the Uto Yagura, sometimes considered a second keep and much larger than many main keeps. Sadly, it is in a fragile state since the earthquake, though it is being dismantled for reassembly at the time of writing, projected to reopen in 2032. The authentically reconstructed wooden palace is a major attraction too. The keep is open again and the whole site is projected to be completely restored by 2052.

 Kumamoto City’s other major site is the beautiful Suizenji Koen, a unique Japanese garden, created as a strolling garden with ‘sights’ including a small artificial ‘Mount Fuji.’

 Kumamoto University is one of the most venerable and distinguished in the country and has some attractive old buildings. Its roots lie in Saishunkan, founded in 1756 and the Fifth High School and some technical schools founded in the Meiji Era, but the current university was founded in 1949.

 The city in general is a fun place to stay and enjoy dinner and drinks and there is no shortage of good eateries. When booking accommodation, be aware that the real centre of the city is near the castle and not near Kumamoto Station, which is in a fairly quiet part of town.
 For manga fans, Kumamoto City also has a special connection with the globally popular One Piece. Eiichiro Oda, its creator, is a native of Kumamoto City, and after the 2016 Kumamoto Earthquakes, the "One Piece" Kumamoto Revival Project was launched to support and encourage the region’s recovery. In Kumamoto City, the most symbolic example is the bronze statue of Monkey D. Luffy, the main character of One Piece, standing on the promenade in front of the Kumamoto Prefectural Government Office. Installed in November 2018, the statue represents not only the popularity of the manga but also the city’s resilience after the earthquake. Visitors can also find a Chopper statue at the Kumamoto City Zoological and Botanical Gardens. Together with other Straw Hat Pirates statues placed around Kumamoto Prefecture, these sites have turned One Piece into a unique pop-culture route connected to local recovery, tourism, and community pride.

Yatsushiro: Another Castle and Fireworks

 On the coast but south of Kumamoto City is the major city of Yatsushiro, which is Kumamoto’s second, with a Shinkansen stop (Shin-Yatsushiro) and a major port. In fact, the Yatsushiro Kumamon Port, built in a public-private partnership, is able to host some of the largest ships on the seas and has a park themed around Kumamon, Kumamoto’s iconic character. 

 Igusa grass, the raw ingredient of tatami mats, is grown extensively here and you can even find an edible version. 
 Yatsushiro is also home to a fine castle, consisting of stone walls but extensive and registered as a Continued 100 Castles of Japan site. The city is also home to a major fireworks festival. 

Hitoyoshi: Charming old city in the hills

 Heading east from Yatsushiro, probably the next most interesting sightseeing town in the mainland is the charming and remote city of Hitoyoshi, with pleasant castle ruins and a quiet atmosphere. You might go here en route to Miyazaki prefecture or as a one-night (or day) excursion from Kumamoto. 
The fast-flowing Kumagawa offers the chance of whitewater rafting if you fancy that. 
 It should be noted that the Hitoyoshi area suffered extensive flood damage in the 2020 floods and transport has been severely affected. You should check very carefully to see which options are available.

Sashiki: haunted horror

 Further south, the town of Sashiki has a fine castle ruin on a hill. However, the town is widely believed to be haunted by locals, one of whom expressed horror that I had even been there.

Amakusa: Islands with a Kirishitan history

 A world unto themselves are the Amakusa Islands to the west. These can be approached from the Uto/Uki coast, which is a rewarding region in itself. Here, along the Ariake Sea, there is dramatic tidal flat scenery, notably the Okotsuki Coast, with its unique crescent-shaped patters in the tidal flats, and the Nagabeta Kaishiro road, which is only visible at low tide and is used for the cultivation of nori, the seaweed used in sushi.  Uki also boasts the Ei no Otsurugi shrine, which celebrates the mysterious shiranui lights, said to be seen in the sea in the eighth lunar month. A festival is held at that time (usually late August or early September).

 From here you can cross into Amakusa proper and begin the experience of the Five Bridges, part of the whole Amakusa experience, entering via Kami Amakusa to these magical islands. The islands are known for their hidden Christian communities, people whose families had converted in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries and had stayed secretly faithful after the ban on that faith right through to the nineteenth century. Here at Kami-Amakusa was the birthplace (and is now the museum) of Amakusa Shiro, martyred after the Shimabara rebellion. On Shimoshima Island to the southwest, the village of Sakitsu, with its church, is part of the World Heritage Site ‘Hidden Christian Sites in the Nagasaki Region’, along with Oe church to the south. The hidden Christian history is a very important part of Amakusa’s history (but see also Nagasaki).

 As for other sights, the fine castle of Tomioka, built on a spit, will make you feel you have come to the end of the earth. If you can get to the north of the islands, you can cross by ferry to Nagasaki Prefecture too. 

 The island of Dangoujima (formally Yushima) is known as the cat island and has a cat shrine and apparently more of the animals than humans. Dango means meeting, so this island was the place of meeting for hidden Christians from both Shimabara and Amakusa because it's located between them.

 For a more natural experience, you can find dolphins here, especially in Futae, where around 200 wild dolphins live and can be seen throughout the year.  The islands are known for their production of pearls and also of a surprisingly large and delicious breed of chicken, "Amakusa Daio". 

Manda Coal Pit: World Heritage Site

 Heading north of the capital we reach Kumamoto’s other World Heritage Site, the Manda pit in Arao, part of the larger complex share with the Miike Coal mine, which is in Fukuoka (q.v.). The whole is a part of the multi-prefectural World Heritage ‘site’, Sites of Japan’s Meiji Industrial Revolution.

Aso and Oguni: Rumbling Giant

 At the heart of the prefecture is one of Kumamoto’s best-known sights, Mount Aso, an enormous volcano, not with a single peak, but instead a caldera, a collapsed volcano, one of the largest in the world, containing a number of internal peaks. It is a fairly active volcano, and often parts are closed off to visitors due to rumblings. It has some stunning scenery and is a great place to see. The largest peak, Mount Nakadake, is a very active volcano, but the Aso area stretches over a wide range of landscapes, though as a whole they are truly impressive.

 On the south side of the main slopes there is a gentler side, for example in the village of Minami-Aso, which is famous for clear spring water and stunning mountain scenery. The area is popular for hot springs and for camping too.

 This area is a great centre of agriculture, in particular for beef and you will see a lot of cows as you travel around. The open farm Rakunoh Mother’s is somewhere you can get a taste of this industry and appreciate its local importance.

  On the other hand, up north in Oguni and Minami-Oguni you find a more secluded atmosphere and a lot of fine hot spring towns, such as Tsuetate Onsen, with steam rising through the village, and Kurokawa Onsen, one of the most picturesque onsen towns, with its famous tegata wooden bath pass, which allows you to try three different outside baths out of many, called rotenburo.

 In Oguni-Yu Michinoeki (service station), you can find interesting local products on sale, including things made of Oguni Cedar and the dairy products of this agricultural region. 
The whole region, represented by Aso, Minami-Aso, Oguni and Minami-Oguni, offers volcanic bleakness, grasslands, forests, mountain springs and hot springs and represents one of the most impressive rural landscapes in Japan. You must go to see the Aso Gogaku (five peaks) but always check if it is safe due to volcanic conditions. 

Kikuchi: Unique Castle and other charms

 Near the Aso region, the city of Kikuchi is an excellent alternative destination with a variety of sights in a small area. Firstly, the castle of Kikuchi is unlike any other you’ll see in Japan. Built way back in the late 7th century, probably as a defence for Daizaifu and the early culture of the region, its most notable feature is its octagonal tower, reconstructed after archaeological excavations. It’s a bit of a sod to get to without a car: try buses and a long walk, but well worth it. The museum next door is very informative too. 

 Kikuchi is also known for its onsen, also known as Waifu Onsen, a relatively recent one, the spring being only discovered in the 1950s, but often praised for the quality of its water. 
 Kikuchi Gorge is a four-kilometre gorge along a forested river, and a very appealing sight too, known to be especially lovely in summer with its greenery and autumn with the turning of the leaves.

Tsujunkyo: Mighty Aqueduct

 Pretty far from anything in Kumamoto Prefecture and nearly Miyazaki, is the great bridge Tsujunkyo, a massive stone aqueduct from the late Edo Period and part of Japan’s history of industrialisation. It’s quite a trek to get there but it’s very impressive. It was declared a National Treasure in 2023.

4. What to Eat

 Kumamoto’s most famous local food is one that a lot of British people may find unappealing, thanks to its image at home: horsemeat. It is most famously served raw as basashi (horse sashimi), and this is how you will find it in most places in Japan, but in Kumamoto you can find it cooked as yakiniku and in other forms. It is raised especially for meat, so is far higher quality than the ex-racehorses given to dogs in the UK.

 Next best known is karashi-renkon, lotus root with mustard put into the holes and deep-fried, much prized as a souvenir, though I personally have never seen the appeal.

 Ikinari dango are delicious filled steamed flour buns, ideal as a quick snack for the peckish and easy to find anywhere. 

 But Kumamoto’s glory must surely be its ramen, usually tonkotsu (pork bone). There are many famous restaurants: Komurasaki, Ajisen Ramen (mentioned earlier), Keika and others. Kumamoto people consider their ramen the best in Japan, and a lot of people agree. 

 Other dishes in this most gourmet of prefectures include taipien, Kumamoto’s adapted Chinese food, which is harusame (bean noodles) cooked in a meat broth with seafood and egg; dago soup (a hearty winter soup with wheat dumplings or dagos); takana rice (rice cooked with the distinctive green takana vegetable); hitomoji no guruguru (green onions wrapped in parcels with a miso and vinegar dipping sauce), and the delicious aka beef, red beef, a healthy and tender wagyu brand. You will probably eat better in Kumamoto than almost anywhere.

5. Getting to and around Kumamoto

 Aso-Kumamoto airport has regular flights from Tokyo but few from abroad (a tiny international terminal flies to Korea and Taiwan, with flights to Mainland China currently suspended). But even coming from Tokyo you might want to fly to Fukuoka and take a shinkansen, which is easy and quick, rather than fly to the local airport, which is located out towards the mountains and takes a good hour by bus to get to the city.
 Within Kumamoto you will find trains less useful than in other prefectures and will probably want to use buses if you are not renting a car. Beware that the large bus station in Kumamoto can take time to negotiate, so don’t risk missing one. Within the city there are trams and much of the centre is not hard to walk or cycle around. Buses go to the Amakusa Islands, but not around every part of them, so some careful planning may be required.
Also note that floods and landslides are quite frequent in Kumamoto (and other parts of Kyushu) and the smaller railways have often shut down for years at a time. Always check up-to-date information.