Japanese fashion terms are full of Wasei-eigo (Japanese-made English). What has changed between 'now' and 'then'?

There is a surprisingly large number of Wasei-eigo terms in Japanese fashion vocabulary.

In a previous article, we covered Wasei-eigo terms like 'one-piece' (dress), 'trainer' (sweatshirt), and 'cut-and-sew' (knit top), but this time we will look at the 'changes in Japanese fashion terminology' from a slightly broader perspective.

Why are there so many Wasei-eigo terms in Japanese fashion? And how have the words of the past changed compared to those of today?

By delving into this question, we can see how Japan has cultivated its own unique fashion culture.

Why are there so many Wasei-eigo terms in Japanese fashion?

First, let's start with a fundamental question.

The reason there are so many Wasei-eigo terms in Japanese fashion lies in how Western culture was adopted after the Meiji era.

During the Meiji era, Japan rapidly pursued Westernization. Clothing was no exception, and the lifestyle shifted from one centered on traditional Japanese clothing to Western-style clothing. However, when importing the concepts of Western clothing, the Japanese language lacked words to express them.

The method adopted was to incorporate foreign words as they were while modifying them into a form easy to use in Japanese. Converting English pronunciation into Japanese katakana, and in some cases abbreviating, combining, or coining new words—this is the basic way Wasei-eigo was born.

Furthermore, after the war, there was a massive influx of American culture. American fashion that arrived with the GHQ occupation—denim, T-shirts, sneakers—these words were also incorporated into Japanese. Many of the terms that became established during this time are still in active use today.

In other words, Wasei-eigo in Japanese fashion terminology is the result of a 'history of accumulated attempts to convert Western concepts into Japanese.'

'Past' terms—Wasei-eigo established before and after the war

First, let's look at Wasei-eigo that became established in relatively older times.

Waishatsu (Y-shirt)

This term is said to have come from 'white shirt' being corrupted into 'waishatsu,' and it has been used since the Meiji era. In English, it is called a 'dress shirt' or 'button-down shirt,' but in Japan, 'waishatsu' is completely established.

What is interesting is that shirts of colors other than white also came to be called 'waishatsu.' 'Blue waishatsu,' 'striped waishatsu'—the meaning of 'white' has now completely fallen away.

Zubon (trousers)

This term is said to have its etymology in the French word 'jupon,' and it has been used since the Meiji era. It is a word that underwent a unique change that is neither English nor French. In modern times, it is being replaced by 'pants,' but it is still in active use, especially among older generations.

Over (overcoat)

The term 'over,' an abbreviation for coat, was widely used until the mid-Showa era. The expression 'putting on an over' is almost unintelligible to the current generation, but it is a natural term for those of a certain age and older. The Japanese word 'gaito' was also used synonymously.

Avec

While this is more of a cultural term than a fashion term, the word used to refer to a couple as an "avec" comes from the French word "avec" (meaning "with"). In Showa-era fashion magazines, expressions like "avec look" and "avec coordinate" were frequently used. Today, these have been replaced by "couple" and "pair."

Wasei-eigo born in the 'bubble era to the 90s'

Next, we will look at words that were born and became established from the bubble era through the 90s.

Cut-and-sew

This is a completely Japanese-made English term that abbreviates the name of the manufacturing process "cut and sew." It originated as industry jargon to distinguish it from knitwear, and before long, it spread to consumers. It is not understood in English-speaking countries, but it remains an active and important word in the Japanese apparel industry today.

Formal/Casual (Japanese usage)

While "formal" and "casual" are English words themselves, their usage in Japan differs significantly from that in English-speaking countries. In Japan, a binary opposition of "suit = formal" and "denim = casual" has become established, whereas in English-speaking countries, "formal" often refers to more limited situations (such as a black tuxedo).

Setup

This term refers to a combination of top and bottom items made of the same material and pattern. It comes from the English "set up," but using it in this sense is a Japanese-made English usage. In English-speaking countries, it is often called a "matching set" or "co-ord."

Wanpi (One-piece dress)

"Wanpi," an even further abbreviation of "one-piece," is an abbreviation completely born in Japan. Naturally, it is not understood in English-speaking countries. It is an example of a change typical of the Japanese language, which excels at abbreviations and coinages.

"2000s and beyond" — Words changed by globalization

Since the 2000s, with the spread of the internet and globalization, changes have also occurred in Japanese fashion terminology.

The coexistence of "knit" and "sweater"

In the past, "sweater" was common, but now "knit" is widely used. "Sweater" has come to have a somewhat old-fashioned ring to it, and the younger generation often calls them "knits." This change is considered to be largely due to the influence of overseas fashion magazines and brands.

The establishment of "sneaker" and the loss of the "indoor shoe" feel

"Sneaker" is a word that came from the English "sneaker," but it has become completely established in Japan. In the past, they were also called "undou-gutsu" (exercise shoes) or "tennis shoes," but now "sneaker" is almost the only name used.

The rise of "big silhouette" and "oversized"

These terms, which rapidly became established after the 2010s, spread along with social media. What was previously described as "baggy clothes" has been established as fashion terminology by gaining the terms "big silhouette" and "oversized." By changing the words, the image has also changed from "sloppy" to "stylish."

"One-tone" and "One-tone outfit"

This term refers to a style where the entire outfit is coordinated in similar colors, but this is also a uniquely Japanese way of saying it. In English-speaking countries, it is called a "monochrome outfit" or "tonal dressing." This is a relatively new example of Wasei-eigo that has spread rapidly through social media posts.

Old words disappear, new words are born—the metabolism of language

Looking at the changes in fashion terminology, an interesting pattern emerges.

Old words become symbols that indicate 'oldness' itself

"Overcoat," "avec" (couple), and "zubon" (trousers)—using these words alone conveys an impression of the "Showa era" or an "old-fashioned person." Even if words lose their function as fashion terms, they continue to function as "symbols of the era."

The change in how denim is referred to—"G-pan" (jeans) → "jeans" → "denim"—follows the same pattern. You can tell someone's approximate generation by which word they use.

New words create a sense of 'being current'

Conversely, mastering new fashion terms is a sign that you "know current fashion." "Big silhouette," "gorpcore," and "quiet luxury"—whether or not you know these words has become a kind of indicator of your level of interest in fashion.

A return to English is also occurring

In recent years, there has also been a shift back from Wasei-eigo to original English expressions. "Trainer" has become "sweatshirt." "Jumper" has become "blouson" or "jacket." This can be said to be a trend where words closer to their original English meanings are preferred due to the influence of globalization.

Will Wasei-eigo disappear?

Finally, based on this trend, let's consider the question, "Will Wasei-eigo disappear in the future?"

The answer, I believe, is "no, it will not."

Japanese is a language that has repeatedly incorporated foreign words while uniquely transforming them. Whether it's English or French, it changes them into a "form that is easy to use as Japanese." This tendency continues even now that information has become globalized.

"One-tone outfit," "setup," and "cut-and-sew"—these are not understood in English-speaking countries, but they are words that have become completely established within Japanese fashion culture. These are neither mistakes nor inferior; they are fashion vocabulary that Japan has cultivated on its own.

The abundance of Wasei-eigo is proof that Japanese fashion culture has developed uniquely while incorporating foreign concepts. Tracking the changes in language is also tracking the changes in culture.

From "zubon" to "pants." From "over" to "coat." From "G-pan" to "denim"—words change. But within the trajectory of those changes, the history of Japanese fashion culture is engraved.