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Gerberoy, The Blue Table: Painter Le Sidaner and the "Village of Roses" Gerberoy

Are you familiar with "The Most Beautiful Villages of France"?
Established in France in 1982, this organization aims to enhance and protect the historical value of villages that carry on regional culture and traditions, as well as to promote economic activities related to tourism.
To be selected as one of the "Most Beautiful Villages," a village must meet several criteria, such as having a population of 2,000 or fewer, not being urbanized, possessing at least two protected areas such as historical monuments or natural heritage sites, and engaging in activities to preserve them. Furthermore, the construction of buildings or facilities that would detract from the landscape is restricted. Even after certification, the village is subject to ongoing reviews, and if it fails to meet the conditions, its status can be revoked.
Having cleared such rigorous conditions, there are currently over 150 villages recognized as "Most Beautiful Villages."
Gerberoy, the "Village of Roses" in northern France with a population of less than 100, is one of them. With a history dating back over 1,000 years, this village was caught up in wars many times and was once left in ruins. However, after being discovered by the painter Henri Le Sidaner in the 20th century, the village was reborn and is now one of the popular tourist spots recognized as a "Most Beautiful Village."
In this article, we will introduce the story of the "Village of Roses," Gerberoy, and the painter Le Sidaner, who inherited the Impressionist expression of light and color.

1. Gerberoy

Gerberoy is a village located northwest of Paris, on the border between the Picardy and Normandy regions, and was built as a fortress in the 10th century.
Because it was situated on the border of two regions, the village was caught up in wars many times throughout history. During the Hundred Years' War in particular, it became a battleground because it was under British control, and it was thoroughly destroyed by the French army in the battle of 1435.
After the end of the religious wars (French Wars of Religion) in the 16th century, when Henry IV had the fortress demolished, Gerberoy fell into ruin and became "the smallest village in France." It then fell into a long slumber until it was discovered by a painter at the beginning of the 20th century.

2. Henri Le Sidaner

Henri Le Sidaner was born in 1862 on the island of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean. He spent his childhood freely on the nature-rich island, and at the age of 10, he returned to France with his parents and began living in Dunkirk.
Later, he went to Paris to pursue a serious career in painting, which he excelled at, and entered the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts at the age of 20. However, Le Sidaner began to feel unfulfilled by the school's teachings, which valued traditional rules such as accurate form and shading, as well as by life in the city of Paris. He felt more drawn to the bright colors and light expressions of Impressionism, which were finally beginning to be accepted by the art world at the time.
Eventually, he decided to leave Paris and headed toward northern France, where he had spent his teenage years. After falling in love with the small fishing village of Étaples, he stayed there for about 10 years starting in 1885.
The quiet and peaceful days in Étaples brought Le Sidaner not only healing for his heart but also hints that would lead to the establishment of his own unique painting style.
It was the "light" unique to northern France.
Because the sky in northern France is often cloudy, the sunlight is pale and weak. However, Le Sidaner truly felt that the subtle flickering of the pale light and the hazy colors were "beautiful."
He began to paint using the landscapes of the north, including Étaples, as motifs. This "Berck, The Orphans' Walk" is one of them.

Henri Le Sidaner, "Berck, The Orphans' Walk," 1888, Dunkirk Museum of Fine Arts (Public Domain) (Source: Wikipedia)


This work depicts children from an orphanage in a small town adjacent to Berck, near Étaples. While the overall composition is in pale tones, the gray and dark blue of the clothes worn by the figures add accents.
This work, which evokes a sense of slowly flowing time and quiet lyricism in the soft light, was accepted into the 1888 Salon along with another work depicting Étaples. It was Le Sidaner's first success.

3. Le Sidaner and Gerberoy

In 1894, Le Sidaner left Étaples and continued to paint landscapes while traveling to various parts of Europe, including Venice and Brussels.
During one such trip in 1901, Le Sidaner visited Gerberoy. He fell in love with the village's appearance, with its houses made of wood, stone, and brick, and its quiet atmosphere, and in April of the same year, he rented a house in the village and moved in.
Since then, Le Sidaner decorated his house with roses and planted various flowers in his garden, transforming it into a beautiful Italian-style garden.
Furthermore, Le Sidaner called on the villagers to plant roses in front of their own houses, and he gave them detailed advice on colors and planting methods.
In this way, the former "land of slaughter and plunder" was reborn as a "Village of Roses," where houses that evoke history stand in rows and roses bloom throughout the village.
The landscape of the village stimulated Le Sidaner's inspiration, and many works were born.

Henri Le Sidaner, "Old Road at Twilight," 1929, Tokyo Fuji Art Museum (Source: Tokyo Fuji Art Museum Website)


For example, this "Old Road at Twilight" depicts a corner of the village at dusk. The surroundings are already dim, and no people are in sight.
In the midst of this, the light shining on the first floor of the house on the left hints that there are people inside. The yellow of the light is warm, and the combination with the pale purple of the curtains on the windows is also impressive.
Vines crawl on the walls, and a potted red rose is placed by the second-floor window.
The quiet, old-fashioned atmosphere unique to a village with hundreds of years of history touches the hearts of those who see it.

Henri Le Sidaner, "Gerberoy, The Blue Table," 1923, Singer Laren Museum (Public Domain) (Source: Wikipedia)


On the other hand, this "Gerberoy, The Blue Table" is a work set at Le Sidaner's house in Gerberoy.
Planters are placed against the walls of the house, vines grow along the walls and roof, and roses are in full bloom. A rose arch can also be seen in the back on the right.
And in the foreground, there is the blue table mentioned in the title and two chairs. Like "Old Road at Twilight," no people are visible, but a glass containing half-drunk white wine implies that someone was here just a moment ago.
A white rose is placed on a chair, showing the thoughtfulness of the master of the house.
Looking at these landscapes, one feels as if they could step into that calm, slumbering atmosphere themselves.
Facing the painting and immersing yourself for a while in the peace where time seems to have stopped is one way to enjoy it.

Le Sidaner not only created a garden at his home that reflected his own aesthetic sense, but by actively engaging with the villagers, he beautifully transformed a fortress city that was once a stage for war.
From 1928, a rose festival, which is said to have been proposed by him, began to be held every June, and it continues to this day. (In 2025, it will be held on June 1st.)
It is no exaggeration to say that Gerberoy itself is a magnificent "work" by the painter Le Sidaner.


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