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During Golden Week, I traveled around Kyushu, guided by my husband's minute-by-minute spreadsheet

Before setting off on this trip, to be honest, I wasn't feeling very energetic.

I was looking forward to it. I like trains, and I like the atmosphere of places I don't know. Coffee drunk while traveling always tastes a little more special than usual.

However, a family trip isn't just made up of 'fun'.

Packing. Checking the schedule. How my son is doing. My husband's mood. My own stamina. And the minute-by-minute spreadsheet thrust in front of me.

That's right. Our family trips start with training rather than relaxation.

Even so, I probably won't forget for a while the four days we spent racing around the west side of Kyushu by train.

Dashing to make transfers when arriving at a station and sprinting across connecting bridges are the spice of family travel. Or rather, they have already taken their place as a matter of course in our family trips.


Day 1 | First train, transfer dash, and remote worship at Dazaifu

Our trips usually start with the first train of the day.
While being rattled along on a local train in the still-lapis-lazuli sky, by the time we arrived at Sendai Station, it was already completely bright outside.

The Hisatsu Orange Railway was waiting, sparkling in the morning sun.
For this trip, we are just being swayed along using the Travel Master's Kyushu Enjoyment Ticket which allows unlimited rides on local trains, rapid trains, and even streetcars on both JR and private railways.
Note that while sightseeing limited express trains appear along the way, they are not covered by the unlimited ride pass, so we purchase tickets each time.

When we board the Hisatsu Orange Railway, a cute chime plays over the train's PA system.
It's music that sounds like a music box, something like tan-ta, tan-ta, ta-la-la-ran, ta-ran♪.
Actually, everything about the Orange Railway is cute.
It is a condensed essence of the emotional appeal and cuteness of southern Kyushu.
I recommend the train cars featuring Kumamon and the mascot Diesel Girls.
It is no exaggeration to say that the cuteness of Kyushu is right here.

And the sea is a superb view. I really want you to see the sea around here.
My husband was flipping through a route map, looking for scenic spots.
You can enjoy both mountains and the sea without even looking for them. You can see one of Kyushu's best marriages of mountain and sea.

Then, we arrive at Yatsushiro and transfer again.
By the way, north of here, even local trains run at speeds that could be mistaken for limited expresses.
We sped through at a speed that was a bit surprising for someone from southern Kyushu, and arrived at Omuta in no time.

Originally, we planned to go from Omuta to Amagi, but beyond the connecting passage, displayed above the Nishitetsu ticket gate was: 'The Amagi Line is suspended due to an accident.'
So, my husband, who was next to me, thought about it and came to the conclusion that we should go to Dazaifu via Futsukaichi first, and think from there.

I rode the Nishitetsu for the first time in 16 years. The moment I sat in the seat, I was struck by the illusion that I had time-traveled, and when I closed my eyes, the scenery from back then seemed to float up.

Dazaifu—no, even at Futsukaichi, it was already people, people, people!
We transferred to the train bound for Dazaifu, pushing through the waves of people. I couldn't even move. This level of crowding is too much for a country bumpkin. A local mall on a holiday is emptier than this.

When we arrived at Dazaifu Station, the platform and the station premises were packed with foreigners and Japanese alike, and my husband gave up on going to the shrine grounds early on. There was a long line at the Ichiran in front of the station. The approach to the shrine was more than just a wave of people; it was a crush. There was nothing to do but go to Starbucks and worship remotely. My son was teary-eyed from being squeezed by people. My husband was in a bad mood.

The only photo that looks like Dazaifu

Buying a chai coffee at the Starbucks on the approach and eating a Umegae-mochi was all we could manage.
I will record that the foreign ladies in kimono were extremely beautiful.
Wait, I don't have a photo that looks like Dazaifu. Or rather, it wasn't a state where I could take one. Because there were so many people, I couldn't even move.

A Starbucks stamp to commemorate that we went to Dazaifu. I found many Starbucks on this trip, but in the end, this was the only one I could go to.
Someday, I'd like to try a coffee trip where I collect them. Who knows how many years from now that will be.

There was an Ema (votive horse tablet) for Dazaifu Tenmangu at JR Futsukaichi Station. This makes me feel like I did a remote visit. If it's that crowded, shouldn't just arriving at the grounds be enough to pass?
I'd like to visit properly again someday.

Then, before I knew it, we took the Amagi Railway to Amagi, and transferred to the Nishitetsu at Amagi to go to Tenjin.
On the way, the town I used to live in was reflected in the train window. After 16 years, there are places that have changed, and places that remain the same as they were.
My younger self, who used to treat Tenjin as her own backyard, peeked out for a moment.

We head to Hakata Station from Tenjin via the Nanakuma Subway Line.
And finally, we arrive at Nintendo Fukuoka, which my son has been longing for.
My son sets his sights on an Alarmo as well. He barely wakes up as it is, so where would we even put it? I convey "we're not buying it" to my son with my aura, and we look around the store.

In front of the store, there is a very analog-looking pixel art Mario.
I am breathless at the exquisite three-dimensional dots. What is this, it's amazing.

From there, we transfer trains and arrive at the Toyoko Inn in front of Saga Station.
When we go inside, there is a space based on light blue and white that feels like... the ocean!
When we enter the room, there are beautiful paintings on display. It's like some kind of art museum.
Exhausted from riding trains all day, we went to bed early.

Day 2 | Traveling with coffee in hand on the "Futatsuboshi 4047". And Unzen, where we only had hot spring eggs.

The second day is unfortunately rainy. And the main event of this trip, riding the "Futatsuboshi 4047", awaits.
Before that, my husband, who often goes on business trips, drills into methe strategy for breakfast at Toyoko Inn. For my husband, breakfast seems to be a war. Especially if there are large groups.

We split up to get side dishes and rice for the family, and then keenly search for and secure empty seats. Silent speed determines victory or defeat. By the way, the breakfast war was most intense onthe mornings of the third and fourth days.

We take a local rapid train, rattling along to Kohoku Station to board the "Futatsuboshi 4047", but it's empty, perhaps because of the rain. Usually, it would be bustling with the Arita Ceramic Fair.

At Kohoku Station, there is an object like this.

"JR Longest One-Way Ticket Journey Goal: Hizen-Yamaguchi Station (former name of Kohoku Station)"

It seems that if you travel from Hokkaido to Kyushu in one continuous stroke, you would end up here. By the way, if you tried to do the same thing now, the goal would be Shin-Omura Station in Nagasaki Prefecture.
I watched a video on YouTube before about what the longest one-way ticket is, but it's too grueling for me to ever attempt with my physical stamina.

After taking a picture of the object and returning to the platform, merchandise sales had begun.
When I bought a pudding for my son, he was overjoyed, looking bashful.
Meanwhile, the glittering white train arrives. The highlight of our trip, the "Futatsuboshi 4047".
White with gold, it is very beautiful.

The seats inside look like this.
By the way, this is the seat my husband was sitting in.
The seat next to him was also reserved, but no one sat there until we got off.

The ceiling decorations are detailed, and I wondered what kind of flower it was, but I was speechless at its beauty.

And well, I'm obviously going to buy the limited-edition coffee, so I head to the buffet as a matter of course. In any case, coffee is essential even when traveling.

However, there was a Chinese family in the seat in front of us, and every time the train swayed, a bag that looked like a fusion of a suitcase and a backpack rolled back and forth. Hey, are you okay?

On the way, at Hizen-Hama Station, a sake tasting set (with snacks made of cheese cream mixed with sake lees) was being sold, and my husband eagerly got off for that. Not only that, but most of the adults seemed to be there for this, getting off while shouting "It's sake, it's sake!"

I tried tasting the three types of sake, and they were all easy to drink and had a slight sweetness.
My husband seemed to have bought the sake lees and cheese snacks separately as well, and we were eating them while looking out the train window. Meanwhile, my son was drinking his juice, making a rattling sound.

We arrive in Isahaya, and now we head to our second destination, the Shimabara area.
The Railway Musume is too cute.

While waiting, the Shimabara Railway for our transfer arrived immediately.
High school students suddenly got on, and the train was full in an instant. The high school girl sitting next to me immediately drifted off into a dream world.
In other seats, boys are playing online games on their smartphones. They are modern kids.

When we arrived at Shimabara Port, it was raining like a waterfall outside with a roaring sound.
The bus to Unzen seems to leave from the port terminal.
We decided to spend some time at the port terminal to escape the rain. When we went inside, cheerful music that felt like a "departure" reached our ears.
I bought soft-serve ice cream for my son, who looked hungry, and we sat and waited out the rain until the bus to Unzen arrived.

By the time the bus arrived, the background music had changed to Pachelbel's Canon.

We finally arrived in Unzen by bus. However, our stay was only a few dozen minutes. And it was still raining heavily.
We bought hot spring steamed eggs at a souvenir shop to escape the rain and decided to eat them.
What kind of family comes to a hot spring resort and only eats hot spring eggs without even taking a bath? If there is anyone other than us, I would like to know.

The bus arrived, and we were shaken for a long time again as we returned to Isahaya Station.
The bus descending from Unzen was chilly, and the cool air from the air conditioning clung to my short sleeves. Outside the window, it was wrapped in rain and fog, and the sea and sky were gray as far as the eye could see. I felt like I was losing track of where I was. That day, for the first time in my life, I regretted wearing short sleeves. I want to believe that this is the only time, before or since.

Today's accommodation is in Nagasaki City. It's a Toyoko Inn a short walk from the station.
We transfer to the train bound for Nagasaki, and my son stares intently at the floor.
Patterns that look like QR codes are lined up. I point my camera at the floor just to see what happens. A mysterious pattern that doesn't scan anything.

It's been a while since I've been to Nagasaki Station, and it has moved much further back than I remember. The walk to the pedestrian bridge is long. It's different from the Nagasaki in my memory.
And the station was bustling with people wearing soccer uniforms.

After pushing through the crowd, we had dinner at the McDonald's at the back of the station. It was the season for Chicken Tatsuta, so I ate a Chicken Tatsuta as a matter of course. Even though it was night, I drank coffee, and I had also had coffee at the Toyoko Inn.

Then, I take a bath at the hotel and fall asleep. All for the sake of tomorrow morning's sara udon.

Day 3 | Early Morning: The Battle of Sara Udon, the Westernmost Station in Kyushu, and the Glossy Black Limited Express

6:00 AM. The morning comes early for those seeking sara udon and breakfast. My husband's Toyoko Inn breakfast strategy is in full swing. When we go to the lobby on the first floor, preparations are being made to form a line for breakfast. We join it. All for the sake of my favorite local menu item, sara udon. People coming down one after another line up behind us. The battle of breakfast has begun.

First, we split up. My husband is in charge of rice and soup, and I take side dishes for the family. And, I don't forget to get the sara udon. My son, who sat down first, doesn't even look at the sara udon and eats other things. By the way, I like the boundary between the noodles and the starchy sauce of the sara udon. That slightly soft texture is irresistible.

Also, our family's travel schedule is very tight. Once we finish eating, we head to Nagasaki Station, and to experience the westernmost point of Kyushu by train, we first head to Haiki Station. The morning at Nagasaki Station was a bit quiet.

From the train window, I can see Omura Bay, and patches of blue sky begin to peek through the cloudy sky like lines. The train heads north along Omura Bay. The boundary between the train window and the sea becomes blurred, as if we had entered the ocean.

I see the sea through the trees and gaze at the scenery where the scent of greenery and the tide seems to drift through the window that cannot be opened.

And then, Huis Ten Bosch is visible from the train window. Come to think of it, we went there on our honeymoon, I think back to the past.

And, after several transfers, we finally arrive at the westernmost station.

We've come this far. We go toward the port wanting to eat seafood, but it's crowded with people, and we won't make it to the next train. I take a picture of the Hirado Ohashi Bridge in the distance, buy lunch at a nearby Hotto Motto, and return to the station.

Then, we are rocked by the train again and arrive at Sasebo. I feel an exotic atmosphere at the port and take a deep breath. We don't have much time or leisure to look around, so we head to the next train again.

When we go to the platform, Cheep Cheeps and Mario were swimming gracefully. Even while at the station, I feel the illusion of having entered the sea.

After killing time in a waiting room that felt like being underwater, what arrived was a glossy black limited express. Today's main event. '36 Plus 3'. The glossy black body with the gold logo exudes a gorgeous and magnificent atmosphere from the start.

When you go inside, it's a fusion of Japanese and Western styles. The floor is tatami. Seats where you take off your shoes to sit. Moreover, since all seats are Green Class, the seats are incredibly spacious.

I want you to see this. The delicate decoration from the luggage rack. And, look at the walls as well. The patterns on the ceramic tiles are very beautiful. I wonder what kind of plant each one is.

Although we can't ride in them, photography is allowed, so we go to the coveted private room area. If there is a next time, I would like my husband to book a private room seat. I want to eat lunch elegantly.

If I could travel in a private room like this, what kind of mood would I be in?

Then, I go to the buffet, and here too, I have my usual limited-edition coffee. This time, I have it hot. By the way, I bought a clear file and a keychain for my son. Leather seat pockets, tatami underfoot. My swollen feet are recovering rapidly. By the way, I heard that the tatami Green Class seats I rode in will be discontinued from autumn.


The windows are shoji screens with delicate carved lattices. My son seemed to find the shoji unusual and stared at them intently.

Arriving at Tosu Station and finishing the journey in the luxurious Green Class seats, we now transfer toward Kumamoto Station.

The train windows at night reflect the interior like a mirror, with city lights occasionally appearing as isolated dots.
Every time the train stops at a station, a cool night breeze rushes in along with the 'ping' sound of the doors opening and closing. The platforms, with only a few people, looked like white shapes floating in the dark.

By the time we arrived at Kumamoto Station, everything had gone completely quiet. We bought dinner at a nearby supermarket and stayed at a Toyoko Inn that felt like a high-rise apartment building.
After finishing my bath, eating dinner, and having coffee, I drifted off to sleep.
It was past 10:00 PM.

Day 4 | The scenery seen from the Minamiaso Railway, and the journey home

In the morning, the battle for breakfast began once again.
The difficulty level was different from before. Wouldn't it be better to just take it back to our room? Just as we were about to give up on the challenge, my husband spotted an empty seat with his sharp eyes.
The Toyoko Inn Breakfast Battle—we had become quite accustomed to this during our trip.

Once we arrived at Kumamoto Station, we were captivated by the murals for a while.
Yoshi was nearby, too.

On the final day, we headed toward Aso.
We were riding the 'Kawasemi Yamasemi'.
I wanted to drink the limited-edition coffee, but the buffet wasn't open yet. I retreated, feeling quite dejected.

The interior of the train featured jade-colored leaves on the ceiling, and delicate wooden-carved lamps on the seats cast a soft glow.
Each sightseeing train has its own unique patterns, themes, and travel stories.

The scenery shifted from the streets of Kumamoto to the mountains. As the fields and trees increased, I felt as if I were gradually being drawn into Aso.

Then, we got off at Tateno Station to board the Minamiaso Railway.
It was very sunny outside, and the manju we bought in front of the station was incredibly sweet and delicious.

The 'Kawasemi Yamasemi' we arrived on. To put it simply, its exterior is just too beautiful.
It really is designed as if you are stepping into a story.

Next, we transferred to the Minamiaso Railway trolley train.
You can see such spectacular views. As someone with a fear of heights, I wanted to pretend I wasn't looking down, but the view from the bridge still looked stunning against the blue sky.

The journey continued with lively announcements from the crew.
The time spent wrapped in the Aso breeze, where I forgot about the clock, was so enjoyable and a truly heart-fluttering moment.

There was a cafe at the station, and my son's eyes went wide at the welcome of soap bubbles.
Along the way, Akaushi cattle were relaxing leisurely.
We could see families having barbecues along the tracks. People passing by waved at us.
Next time I go to Aso, I want to visit every single station carefully.

At the station that served as a filming location for a tea commercial (Miharashidai Station), there was a vending machine that only sold that tea, making it feel like a world straight out of a commercial.

When we arrived at Takamori Station, there was a long line of celebrity autographs.
The station was so large that we couldn't look around before our return train, so I definitely want to visit again.
There are still places I haven't seen at all.
I haven't been to the cafe either. I vowed that I would definitely come back.

When we went outside, there was a Franky statue standing out against the blue sky.
There was a long line of people waiting to take photos in front of the statue, and some foreign guys were taking pictures with great excitement. It was truly a pilgrimage to a sacred site.

The weather was good, and we could see far into the distance, which was really wonderful.
On sunny days, you can see the details of the mountain contours clearly, which adds even more impact.

Vowing to return, we descended from Aso and headed straight for Yatsushiro.
We saw something rare at Yatsushiro Station.
The 'Seven Stars'—you can't ride it unless you win the lottery!Seven Stars!!
I want to ride it at least once in my life.

The sea at Yatsushiro, which I must have seen on the way there, was beginning to tilt toward sunset, showing a different expression than it had in the early morning.
With every station we passed, we were being pulled back from the extraordinary to the ordinary. What do you call this feeling?
Reluctant to leave every place we had traveled to, we headed home.

By the time we returned to our local area, night had fallen.
We managed to catch the last bus (it's after 8:00 PM in our area), and by the time we got home, I couldn't feel my feet anymore.

Before I went on the trip, I felt a bit heavy.

My luggage, my schedule, various family matters, and my own body.
Honestly, the thought of 'will I be okay?' came before any excitement.

Still, the train keeps running.

Passing through mountains, tracing the coastline, being struck by rain, enveloped in mist, and then carried off into the wind of a clear Aso.

Before I knew it, even while being pushed around by that minute-by-minute spreadsheet, I found myself looking out the window again and again.

I drank coffee time after time, and thought over and over that I wanted to come back.

The view from the train window at night, as we return from the extraordinary to the ordinary, feels a little lonely.

But perhaps that is why travel is good—because you can bring that loneliness home with you.

It was several days later when the sensation in the soles of my feet, now accustomed to the floors of Toyoko Inn, finally returned to my own home.

いいなと思ったら応援しよう!

凪砂いる いただいたチップで少し豪華なコーヒー飲みます!

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