[The Final Verdict on Choosing Eging Lures] Does Color Matter? The Scientific Logic of Choosing by "Sinking Speed" and "Acoustics"

Hey, you lost eging refugees. Are you still standing in the eging corner of the tackle shop today, staring at a wall full of colorful scraps of cloth, completely at a loss? "Well, I caught one on pink yesterday..." "The clerk said this new color is insane..." ...Sorry, but why don't you finally graduate from that "daily horoscope" style of choosing?

Let me be clear. Bigfin reef squid aren't looking at the "cute colors" you think they are. They are coldly calculating only one thing: whether the lump of plastic you threw is performing "physically correct behavior".

"Huh? Isn't color and shape important?!" If you felt like retorting that, it's proof that you still only see an egi as a "lure." For advanced anglers, an egi is not just a lure. It is a "physics processing device" used to input environmental variables like water depth, current speed, and light intensity, and to elicit a response (a bite) from the target squid.

In this article, I will completely ignore the marketing copy filled with "catchy moods" written in manufacturer catalogs. I will prove the correct way to choose an egi using only three physical parameters: "sinking speed (time)," "acoustics (frequency)," and "optics (wavelength)." When you finish reading this, the "lures I bought for no reason" will disappear from your tackle box, and every choice you make will be backed by "logic for catching."

Are you ready? Shopping based only on intuition ends today.

01. [The Physics of Sinking Speed] The Real Reason Why "3 seconds/1m" is the "Standard"

First, the number always written on the back of an egi package: "Sinking speed: approx. 3 sec/m." Are you just letting that slide with a "Hmm, I see"? Why is "3 seconds" the industry standard, rather than 2 or 5? There is a clear "3 seconds" "physical necessity" based on Japanese field environments and fluid dynamics.

The "Golden Ratio" born from the Japanese sea

The answer is simple. It's because the main battlegrounds for eging at Japanese breakwaters and rocky shores are at a depth of "5m to 10m."

Do the physics calculation. How long does it take to reach the bottom at a depth of 10m with each sinking speed?

• Deep type (2 sec/m): Approx. 20 seconds. Too fast for the squid to have time to find it.

• Shallow type (6 sec/m): Approx. 60 seconds. Too slow, making it inefficient and impossible for a human to wait.

• Normal type (3 sec/m): Approx. 30 seconds.

This "30 seconds" figure is exquisite. It is the speed that is physically most balanced as the "hang time" required for the squid to discover the egi from a distance, approach it, and complete the series of processes (mental calculations) to decide whether to grab it or not. Therefore, beginners should just shut up and choose "3 sec/m (Normal)." That is the physical "center value" in the Japanese sea.

The physical boundary between "Shallow" and "Deep"

"So, if it's a shallow place, the shallow type is the only choice?" ...There it is, that short-sighted thinking. Physics isn't that simple. The boundary for choosing types is determined not just by water depth, but by the vector synthesis of "wind speed" and "current speed."

❌ Thoughtless choice: "It's 3m deep, so use a shallow type (6 sec/m)" → Line gets caught in a 5m/s crosswind → Egi doesn't sink and slides sideways → You won't catch anything.

⭕️ Physical thinking: "It's 3m deep, but the wind is strong. A shallow type will lose to fluid resistance (wind and waves), and the fall posture will collapse. I'll dare to use a normal type (3 sec/m) to force it down with its own weight and stabilize the posture."

Listen, choosing an egi type isn't about "how many seconds you want it to sink." It's a mechanical judgment of "which mass can maintain a 45-degree posture without losing to the local noise (wind and tide)?" If the wind speed exceeds 5m/s, ditch the shallow type no matter how shallow it is. You will physically lose control.

02. [Acoustic Science] Are rattle sounds a "summoning signal" or "noise"?

"Rattle-equipped egis are noisy when you shake them, but do they really catch fish?" That question you all have is, biologically speaking, "half right and half wrong."

Manufacturers claim they "reproduce the sound of shrimp escaping!", but consider that half fantasy. What's important is the single point of "which frequency (Hz) of sound" the bigfin reef squid can physically hear.

The true nature of the "600Hz" that vibrates their eardrums

Bigfin reef squid don't have ears like humans, but they sense vibrations in the sea with an organ called a statocyst. According to the latest research, their audible range is 400Hz to 1500Hz. Among that, it is said that the frequency they are most sensitive to and react to is around "600Hz."

Did you know that YAMASHITA's "Egi-Oh LIVE Search" is designed with a thorough focus on this "600Hz"? This has the strongest physical properties as a "summoning signal (beacon)" to let them know "there's something here!" in the vast ocean. Therefore, for highly active squid or in situations where the water is murky and vision is ineffective, the rattle sound becomes an overwhelming advantage.

The paradox where it becomes counterproductive for "wary squid"

However, there is a physical pitfall here. "Being able to hear the sound" does not necessarily mean "you will catch them." Bigfin reef squid have an exceptionally high learning ability. What happens if everyone is making "rattling" sounds at a fishing spot with high weekend pressure? In the squid's brain, a strong conditioning (Pavlov's dog) is completed: "If I hear this sound (600Hz) = a companion was caught and disappeared = danger signal."

As a result, the moment they hear the rattle sound, the squid react not with "It's food!" but with "Run away!" This is the biological reason why experts say, "Start with silent (non-rattle) first." Sound is a double-edged sword. Keep in mind that if you use it in the wrong place, it will only become "noise" that strangles you.

03. [Optical Logic] Choose the "underlay tape" by "reflectivity," not color

Next is the most troublesome topic: "underlay tape (base color)." Gold, red, silver, marble, purple... Many of you are probably giving up, thinking, "There are too many, I don't get it." But remember the fact I mentioned in Chapter 1: "Bigfin reef squid are colorblind." They aren't looking at color. They are looking at "light intensity (brightness)" and "contrast (light and dark)."

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If that's the case, the criteria for choosing isn't "the color I like." It's an optical matching of "Which material reflects (or absorbs) most efficiently against the current sunlight (incident light)?" Burn this table into your brain.

Optical Matrix: Physical optimal solution by situation

• 🌞 Silver Tape/Hologram (Specular Reflection)

  • Physical Properties: Strongly reflects incident light as is.

  • Optimal Solution: "Daytime, Sunny, Clear Water".

  • When there is intense light, it creates a "flashing" effect like the scales of baitfish, appealing to squid from a distance.

• 🌥️ Gold Tape (Diffuse Reflection)

  • Physical Properties: Diffusely reflects light, creating a soft, strong, expansive color.

  • Optimal Solution: "Twilight, Cloudy, Murky Water".

  • Even when light levels drop or visibility is poor due to murkiness, it reliably picks up light to provide an appeal. It is an "all-rounder" that you should throw if you are ever in doubt.

• 🌑 Red Tape (Long Wavelength Absorption)

  • Physical Properties: "Red light," which attenuates fastest underwater, appears black in deep water or at night.

  • Optimal Solution: "Nighttime, deep water, and around constant lights".

  • Because it does not reflect, it stands out clearly against background light as a "pitch-black silhouette (shadow)". This is the physical reason why "red at night" is the strongest.

• 🧬 Keimura / 490 Glow (Wavelength Conversion)

  • Physical Properties: Absorbs ultraviolet (UV) light to emit light or releases light at “494nm (blue-green)” which is what squid photoreceptors react to most.

  • Optimal Solution: “Dawn/Dusk, Overcast, Deep Water”.

  • It is invisible to the human eye, but to a squid, it looks like a glowing neon sign. If you want to physically hack their visual sensors, this is it.

This isn't the time to be choosing things like “marble because it feels right.” Look up at the sky. Look at the sea. “How is the light coming in right now?” If you calculate that and choose your base color, the EGI changes from a mere lure into a precision-targeted “optical weapon.”

04. [Fluid Dynamics] "Dart" or "Stability"? Flow Control Provided by Shape

Finally, the “shape” of the EGI. If you think “they’re all just shrimp-shaped, right?”, then you’re blind. The angle of the nose and the fins on the sides of the body—these aren't decorations. They are “aerodynamic (hydrodynamic) parts” that manufacturers' engineers have designed with bloodshot eyes to control the invisible wall known as water flow.

When they won't bite unless you create "snap"

EGIs with thin, sharply pointed noses (like YAMASHITA's EGI-OH LIVE or DAIWA's Emeraldas Dart). Their role is to minimize fluid resistance to the limit and generate a “sharp dart (side-to-side jump)” in response to rod action. If you want to mimic a small fish panicking and fleeing underwater, it is physically impossible without this shape. Especially for curious autumn juveniles or highly active squid, this sharpness of “action” becomes the ultimate switch.

When they won't bite unless you kill the "wobble"

Conversely, EGIs with slightly thicker noses or “fins (rectifying plates)” on the tail (like YAMASHITA's EGI-OH K). These sacrifice darting performance to go all-in on “stability”. It’s the same principle as the stabilizers on ships and airplanes. The fins physically cancel out the force that makes the EGI wobble due to crosswinds or waves by smoothing the water flow, forcibly creating a “45-degree stationary state”.

For nervous parent squid in the spring or on days when the line is thrashing in bad weather, you don't need to dart. “Stop dead!” That physical stillness is the only solution that will make the squid bite.

05. [Conclusion] 5 Masterpieces That Are Excellent as Physical Computing Devices

Enough talk. I will introduce “5 foolproof lures” that embody the theories of “sinking speed,” “acoustics,” “optics,” and “fluidity” discussed so far at a high level. This isn't just a popularity ranking. It is my “answer” to the situations (physical conditions) you will face.

1. [King of Fluidity] YAMASHITA "EGI-OH K"

“The wind is strong and I don't know what's going on,” “The squid are wary and won't grab it.” When that happens, throw this without hesitation. The “Hydro Fin” on the tail locks the posture hydrodynamically. It is the current physical pinnacle of the EGI world that automatically creates a “catchable fall” even under adverse conditions. Take my advice: fill half your box with these.

2. [King of Acoustics] YAMASHITA "EGI-OH SEARCH"

“I want to know if there are squid first,” “It looks murky and I can't see anything.” This is the point man for those times. It is equipped with a one-of-a-kind search rattle that scientifically reproduces “600Hz”, the peak of bigfin reef squid's auditory sensitivity. If the squid are highly active, they will hear this sound from far away and fly in like a missile.

3. [The King of Light Waves] YAMASHITA "Egi-Oh K 490 Glow Color Series"

If it's "dusk and dim" or "cloudy with low light," then it's time to compete with light wavelengths. It emits light at "494nm (blue-green)", which is what squid photoreceptors react to most strongly. To humans, it just looks like a glow-in-the-dark lure, but to a squid's eyes, it must appear as a brilliant, glowing neon sign. This is the one to use if you want to hack their visual sensors.

4. [The King of Wave Motion] DUEL "EZ-Q Cast Kuwase (Patapata)"

If you're dealing with "completely inactive, wary squid that you can see," drop this. The subtle "wave motion" created by the legs (Patapata feet) stimulates the tactile sensors of squid, which lack lateral lines. It's a piece of biological realism that makes them mistake it for a "living creature" rather than a lump of plastic.

5. [The King of Reflection] SHIMANO "Sephia Clinch Flash Boost"

If it's "midday, clear skies, and clear water," and the squid can see the egi perfectly, this is your go-to. The internal reflector plate vibrates on a spring, continuing to "flash" and blink even when the egi is stationary. "It's not moving, yet it's moving." This physical contradiction creates a visual teasing effect that triggers a bite.

Summary: An egi is not a "lucky charm." It's a "bullet."

I've talked at length, but the conclusion is simple. Don't choose an egi as a "lucky charm in a color that seems like it might catch something." Choose it as a "bullet" designed to strike with the optimal trajectory and appeal based on the target (squid) situation.

• If the wind is strong, use the fluid-controlled "Egi-Oh K."

• If the water is murky, use the acoustic weapon "Rattle (600Hz)."

• If there isn't enough light, use the optical camouflage of "Red Tape" or "490 Glow."

The laws of physics don't lie. What turns "I don't know why I caught it" into "I caught it exactly as planned" isn't your physical strength. It's the intelligence to master this weapon called "logic."

Now, open your tackle box right away. Can you explain the reason for choosing every single one of those egi in physical terms? If you can't... well, you know what that means, right?

🛑 Don't be satisfied yet. This is just the "tip of the iceberg."

The logic for choosing egi introduced this time is merely "a single piece" of the massive puzzle that is eging.

"How do you move the egi you've chosen?" "Where are the squid in the first place?"

When all the answers connect and form a single line, you will finally graduate from being a "luck-based angler." The "textbook" I have written in21 chapters covers the "entire logic" for conquering bigfin reef squid, from biology and physics to taste. It is all covered.

Bookmark this article as a "map" for when you are lost.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

For those of you who are overly logical, I will clear up some common questions at the end.

Q1. What type of EGI should a beginner start with?

Conclusion: Start with three "Normal (3 sec/m)" ones. Keep one "Shallow" as insurance.

If a beginner jumps straight into deep or rattle types, their sense of feel will be thrown off. First, use the "Normal type," which is the standard for Japanese waters, and drill the sensation of hitting the bottom (such as counting to 30 seconds) into your body. On top of that, if you keep one shallow type for shallow areas or seaweed beds, you can avoid the hell of getting snagged.

Q2. What are the physical differences between size 3.0 and 3.5?

Conclusion: Size 3.5 is for "discovery rate (fish-attracting power)," and size 3.0 is for "hooking rate (feeding)."

Because size 3.5 has a larger volume, it creates stronger "waves" that move the water, making it easier for squid further away to notice it. In contrast, size 3.0 has a smaller silhouette, lowering the psychological hurdle for the squid to grab it. First, attract them with a 3.5, and if they don't grab it, downsize to a 3.0 (follow-up). This is the golden pattern that makes physical sense.

Q3. What should I do when I can't catch anything with a rattle-equipped EGI?

Conclusion: Immediately switch to a "Silent" one and let the spot rest.

If there is no reaction to the rattle, or if the chase stops, there is a high possibility that the squid in that area have already learned that "sound = danger." Staying there will be counterproductive. Switch to a silent type that makes no sound, and also change the color (light reflection) drastically to make them think, "A different, new bait has arrived, not that noisy one from before."