Autumn Eging is Earned by Footwork: The Logic of High-Volume Fishing by Hacking the 'Curiosity' of Juvenile Squid

“Autumn is the season for catching lots of bigfin reef squid! Even beginners can catch them easily!”

…Hey, hey, which tackle shop poster are you swallowing whole? It’s true that the population is high in autumn. It’s the time when baby squid (shinko) are overflowing in the ports. But what’s the reality?

“Everyone around me is catching them, but I’m not.”
“There are so many squid visible, but they won’t grab the egi at all.”

Coming home with that pathetic look on your face is the inevitable outcome, isn't it? Let me be clear. The reason you can't catch them isn't because your gear is bad, and it isn't because your skills are bad.Your “approach” is just deathly bad.

Autumn eging isn't “fishing,” it’s “collection work.” Efficiently picking up only the high-activity squid and decisively abandoning the wary ones. Only those who can make this “cut-your-losses” judgment will rack up double- or triple-digit catches.

Today, I’m going to drill into you how to biologically hack the “curiosity” and “competitive instinct” unique to autumn juveniles, and the absolute superiority of “run-and-gun” fishing where you earn your catch by using your feet. If you have time to grow roots on one breakwater, read this article and re-tie your shoelaces.

Why does autumn produce “numbers”? The brain mechanism of juvenile squid

In the first place, why is it said that autumn bigfin reef squid are easy to catch? It’s not as simple as “because they have an appetite.” It involves the cruel rules of the natural world and the mechanisms of an immature brain. If you cast an egi without knowing your enemy (target), you’ll only catch them by pure luck.

The only season where “curiosity” outweighs “fear”

The decisive difference between spring parent squid and autumn juveniles is “experience.” The big squid in spring are veterans that have survived in the ocean for a year. They have seen anglers' egi and natural predators countless times. That’s why their caution is abnormally high.

In contrast, autumn juveniles (mantle length 10cm–15cm) are babies only a few months old. Their behavioral principles are dominated by “curiosity” and “thirst for growth” rather than caution.

For squid at this time of year, “being late to eat” means “death.” Therefore, for a suspicious object (egi) passing in front of them, the instinct to “try touching it for now” works before they even doubt, “Is this dangerous?” The essence of autumn eging is harvesting this “0.5 seconds before doubt.”

However, these guys aren't stupid. The moment they learn “this isn't food,” their curiosity instantly turns into “ignoring it.” Because you underestimate this speed of switching, you end up showing your egi to squid that will never bite.

Psychology of the school: If one chases, everyone chases

Another phenomenon unique to autumn is “competition within a school.” Juveniles often act in schools of several to dozens rather than alone. What works here is the “risk of cannibalism” and the “psychology of snatching.”

In the natural world, when someone finds food, if you watch idly, you won't get a share. Therefore, when one squid in the school reacts to the egi and dashes, other squid also get switched on, thinking, “That guy found something good! I want it too!” This is the “chain reaction of activity.”

● Individual squid → Carefully observe the egi (hard to catch) ●
School squid → Compete to grab the egi first (easy to catch)

If you exploit this competitive spirit of 'me first', technique doesn't matter; they'll grab the jig on their own just by you dropping it. Conversely, if you use sluggish movements that fail to trigger the school's competitive switch, or if you catch one and disturb the area, scattering the school, that spot is finished in an instant.

Autumn high-volume fishing is a race against time, centered on how quickly you can find a 'highly active school' and catch them all before they get spooked. That's what it's all about.

Run & Gun is the ultimate logic. The art of moving to win through probability.

'Run & Gun' literally means the style of running (moving) and shooting. It's standard in bass fishing, but in eging—especially during the autumn season for young squid—there is no better tactic. Why? Because 'if the squid are there, they'll grab it immediately.' That's why.

That breakwater is 'dead' after 3 casts.

Let me tell you a cruel reality. Suppose you arrive at a breakwater, excited, and make your first cast. At that moment, 80% of the catch for that spot is already decided.

Highly active autumn squid (I call them 'fresh eaters') will fly in and grab the jig the moment it hits the water and starts to fall. You should have some kind of contact by the third cast at the latest.

Conversely, if there's no reaction after 3 casts, there are no 'motivated squid' there. Even if there are, they are either smart individuals that saw your jig and decided it was a fake, or they simply have no appetite. Sticking around for those kinds of fish is like digging for water in a desert.

This speed of switching directly correlates to your final catch (volume). While you spend 30 minutes at one spot trying to squeeze out one spooked squid, I'll catch three fresh ones at the next location. That is what it means to win through probability.

Criteria for moving: Use your feet, burn the gas.

So, you're asking, when exactly should I move? Here are my criteria.

1. If there's no reaction after 10 minutes (or 5-10 casts), move immediately.

2. If you catch one, explore the surrounding area for a few casts, and if the reaction stops, move immediately.

3. If you see squid but they won't grab it, and downsizing your jig doesn't work, move immediately.

'But I just parked the car, it's a hassle to move,' you say? Don't be soft. You can't expect the return of a big catch if you're stingy with gas money and effort. Autumn eging is a sport. It's a world where you only get out what you sweat for.

Even inside a fishing port, walk from the tip of the breakwater to the base, casting in a fan shape every 5 meters. 'Number of casts' × 'Distance moved' = 'Catch'. Engrave this formula into your brain.

How to find unpressured spots

Even if I tell you to run and gun, the tips of the breakwaters at famous spots are being hammered by someone from morning till night, right? Even if you go to such 'overfished' places, there won't be any fresh squid left.

What you should target in the autumn is 'unpressured spots (places where no one is casting)' .

• Shallows at the base of the breakwater: Everyone wants to go to the tip, so the shallows (1-2m deep) at the base are surprisingly untouched. Juvenile squid gather in these shallow areas to chase small fish.

• Edges of tetrapods: Everyone wants to cast offshore for fear of snagging. However, squid hide in structures. If you cast right along the edge of the tetrapods, the hidden squid will jump out.

• Boat ramps inside the harbor: The drop-off at the ramp where boats are launched and retrieved. This is also a prime spot where bait tends to accumulate.

In short, 'places where no one is standing' and 'places where it's hard to cast' are paradise. As long as you stand in the same place as everyone else and cast in the same direction, you'll only ever be fishing for leftovers.

Misconceptions about gear and action. 'Smaller means more fish' is just an excuse

When you go a long time without a bite, some guys immediately drop their egi size from 3.5 to 3.0, or even 2.5. I get the feeling. It's the idea that 'a smaller egi is easier for a small squid to grab,' right?

But that is 'defensive fishing.' In a high-volume season, the moment you go on the defensive, you've already lost. Even in autumn, I use 3.5, or at least 3.0 as my main size. Let me drill the reason into you.

The reason I dare to cast '3.0 and 3.5'

Small egi have a fatal weakness. That is 'lack of appeal.' The ocean is vast. If you don't make the squid far away realize 'there's food here!', it's a non-starter.

• Vibration and presence: The water displacement (vibration) created by a 3.5 body is incomparable to a 2.5. The 'fish-attracting power' to draw in schools from afar is on a different level. If you don't make them notice it first, there's no chance of them grabbing it.

• Fall speed: This is important. Since a 3.5 is heavy, it naturally sinks fast. 'If it's fast, the squid can't keep up?'... Don't talk in your sleep. A squid's dash speed is like a jet plane. Rather, when an object falls quickly and sharply, the squid gets impatient, thinking 'It's going to get away!', and its switch flips. This is a reaction bite.

  1. Conversely, try dropping a light 2.5 slowly. You're just giving the squid time to observe it carefully, and the result will be them realizing, 'Oh, this is plastic,' and ignoring it.

Small egi are meant to be kept in your pocket as a 'last resort to avoid a skunk' when you absolutely can't catch anything. Don't rely on them from the start. If you're a man, pull out the big, active squid with a big egi.

Action should be 'fast and sharp'

The correct action for autumn squid is to “give the squid no time to think.” Young squid have incredibly sharp motion vision. If you jig lazily and let it fall slowly, they will immediately realize it's a fake.

That is precisely why “dart action” that sends the lure flying violently left and right becomes your strongest weapon.

1. Jig sharply and aggressively: Snap the rod sharply to make the egi dart left and right like a panicked small fish. This forcibly triggers the squid's predatory instinct.

2. Don't stop, keep it moving: After jigging, immediately transition to a fall. A “pause to eat” is necessary, but if you show it for too long, they will see through it. “Move violently (excite)” → “Stop for a moment (gap to eat)” → “Move again (tease)” Repeat this contrast at high speed.

Control the squid. If you want to experience the feeling of “catching” rather than just “getting a catch,” learn how to keep the squid in a state of excitement.

The ultimate weapon against “visible squid.” The tactics of sight fishing

When you peek over the edge of the breakwater, you see a few squid floating. You think, “Oh, a chance!” and cast your egi. The squid approach. You pray, “Grab it! Grab it!”... They don't grab it. You repeat this endlessly, and before you know it, 30 minutes have passed. Zero catch.

That happens all the time, right? Let me be clear. Visible squid are “time thieves.” They are aware of your egi and your presence. Dealing with squid that have entered alert mode is like jumping into a quagmire yourself.

The best strategy is to “ignore them”

I'll tell you the smartest strategy. “Ignore visible squid.” This is the correct answer.

The fact that you can see them means that, both physically and optically, they (the squid) can clearly see your foolish face too. There is no way they will let their guard down and grab the egi while a human is peering down at them from above.

If you cast an egi at a visible squid and it reacts and grabs it on the first cast, you're lucky. But if it approaches but doesn't close the distance, that squid is not going to be caught. Abandon the expectation that “it looks like it's about to grab it...” It will never grab it. Give up quickly and go look for fresh squid in the deep water offshore or in places where they haven't seen you yet. That is the shortest route to high-volume fishing.

If you still want to make them grab it, use “blind spots” and “teasing”

“No, I really want to catch that visible squid!” ...Man, you're stubborn. Fine, if you insist, I'll teach you a technique using “blind spots” to drive a high-alert squid crazy.

The biggest reason you can't catch visible squid is that “you are moving the egi too much within the squid's field of vision.” Squid don't get excited by a toy they can see the whole time.

So what do you do? “Hide it.”

1. Make it disappear from their view and drop it to the bottom: Don't twitch it in the surface layer where the squid is watching. Drop it all the way to the seabed (bottom) in a free fall. The squid will feel anxious, wondering, “Huh? Did the bait disappear?” Then it will look down.

2. Sudden emergence from a blind spot: The moment the squid peers at the bottom, or when it looks around having lost sight of the lure, jerk it up sharply to make the egi "reappear" in the squid's field of vision. Make it strike with a reflexive reaction of 'There it is! Don't let it get away!'

3. Use walls and structures: Hiding the egi along the wall of a breakwater or behind tetrapods is also effective. You are staging 'prey cornered against a wall.' To a squid, prey with nowhere to run looks like a feast.

The point is "teasing". Don't keep showing it; hide it. Make it disappear. Then appear suddenly. If you can't trigger the reaction switch with this 'peek-a-boo' tactic, that squid is beyond your reach. Give up and move on to the next one.

Environmental Strategy: Water Temperature Drops and Squid Positioning

Even though it's the autumn season, the way you approach it is completely different right after the season opens in September versus in November when you can hear the footsteps of winter. Water temperature for a squid is the same as air temperature for a human. You would stay in your underwear in midsummer, but you'd crawl under a kotatsu when it gets cold, right? Squid are the same. Change the depth (range) you target in accordance with the seasonal progression.

Changes in September, October, and November

Keep the movements of these three months roughly in your head.

• September: High-activity bonus in the shallows
  The water temperature is still high, and the squid are full of energy. During this period, schools are gathered in the super-shallows (1m to 3m deep). You can enjoy sight fishing, and you'll get hits just by searching the surface layer at a fast tempo. Don't overthink it; just run-and-gun "shallow areas with good tidal flow" and you're guaranteed a win.

• October: Optimal water temperature and size increase
  The water temperature stabilizes, and the squid grow a bit larger (mantle length 15cm to 20cm). They are still in the shallows, but the slightly smarter individuals and larger ones start hiding in "breaks (drop-offs)" or "seaweed beds adjacent to deep water". Don't just pull it through the surface layer; increase the number of times you let it sink all the way to the bottom to search.

• November: Dropping into the deep
  When the north wind starts to blow and the water temperature begins to drop, squid dislike the cold outside air and move to "deep water where the temperature is stable". This is what they call 'dropping bigfin reef squid.' The squid disappear from the shallows where they were previously being caught. Many people mistakenly think 'the squid are gone' and end their season here, but that's a waste! This is your chance to target the big squid that have gathered in "places with depth", such as boat channels inside the harbor (5m or more deep) or the tips of breakwaters where you can target deep water offshore.

Rain and turbidity are signs to 'change location'

Autumn is also the season for typhoons and long rains. What I want you to remember here is that "bigfin reef squid absolutely hate fresh water and turbidity".

When it rains and muddy water flows in from rivers, the salinity drops, making it hard for the squid to breathe, and for creatures that search for prey visually, turbidity is fatal. Therefore, after rain, "fishing ports near river mouths" become dead spots.

Conversely, opportunities lie in "breakwaters facing the open ocean with good tidal flow" or "rocky shores with depth". Fresh water is lighter than seawater, so it accumulates on the surface. The bottom often still has surprisingly clean seawater. Don't think 'it's raining, so fishing is canceled'; think 'move to deep water unaffected by the rain.' If you want to be the sole winner in adverse conditions, you must hone this area-selection eye.

Summary: In autumn, those who abandon 'attachment' win

I've talked at length, but the logic for catching high numbers in autumn eging is simple.

1. Exploit the squid's curiosity Only target the 'fresh eaters' with low wariness. Don't bother with pressured squid.

2. Earn it with your feet (Run & Gun) Give up after '3 casts'. The longer you linger, the worse your time-to-catch efficiency becomes.

3. Don't run to your gear Don't downsize your jig just because you aren't catching anything. Stimulate the squid's instincts with the vibration and fall speed of a 3.5-size jig.

The autumn sea is a game of musical chairs where it's 'first come, first served.' Will you pick up the scraps after someone else has hit the spot, or will you find a paradise that no one has touched? The difference is decided by your 'courage to move'. If you have time to stand there blankly, move even one step to the side and cast along a new path. That is the only shortcut to a 'massive catch'.

Target them in 'lines,' not 'points'

I focused on 'autumn high-volume fishing' this time, but everything in eging, from choosing gear to cooking, is connected by logic. If you want to know the answers to 'Why this gear?' and 'Why this spot?'... then go read the '21-chapter textbook' I have written. Don't be satisfied with fragmented knowledge. Only by learning systematically can you eliminate 'luck'.

👉 [Definitive Edition] Complete Guide to Eging Strategy | A Textbook on Catching Bigfin Reef Squid with Science and Logic (21 Chapters Total)

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Finally, I will preemptively answer the questions you are likely to have. I've saved you the trouble of searching for answers. You're welcome.

Q1. Can you really catch juvenile squid (shinko) with a 3.5-size jig?

Conclusion: Yes, you can. In fact, they will attack prey larger than themselves quite aggressively.

Juvenile squid are beasts that don't even understand their own size. It's an everyday occurrence for a 10cm mantle-length squid to latch onto a 12cm (3.5-size) jig. There is no need to worry that it's 'too big to hold.' In fact, there is an overwhelming advantage to using the large silhouette and strong vibrations of a 3.5-size jig to make them notice from afar and to incite their competitive spirit (the instinct to steal prey). Only use smaller jigs as a 'last resort' after you've stopped getting reactions with a 3.5.

Q2. I don't have a car, so I can't run and gun?

Conclusion: Even without a car, 'walking run and gun' is enough to change your catch results.

Do you assume run and gun means traveling by car? If it's a large fishing port, just walking from one end to the other is several kilometers. The tip of the breakwater, the bends, the shallows at the base, tetrapod areas, slopes... there are countless spots to hit within a single fishing port. The evil is 'continuing to cast in a spot where you can't catch anything,' and even moving 5 meters to the side changes the scenery underwater (the squid's field of view). Keep casting without stopping your feet.

Q3. In the end, which catches more, day or night?

Conclusion: If you want to catch them easily, go at 'night'; if you want to hone your skills by sight-fishing, go during the 'day'.

If you are only looking for numbers, it is definitely 'night.' The squid's wariness drops even further, and if you use glow or UV-reactive jigs that make the silhouette of the jig stand out, you can often catch them just by casting and reeling. However, daytime sight-fishing is the best practice ground where you can verify the answer to 'how to move the jig to get a reaction.' Beginners should first learn the 'habits of squid' by watching them during the day, and if you go night fishing with that image in mind, your catch results will explode.