Why 'Gunkan Green' and 'Muramura Cherry' are the Optimal Choice if You Only Pick Two Egi-Oh K Size 3.0 [Proven by the Physics of Light]

Hey, are you listening?

You know, the guy at the fishing tackle shop who spends 30 or 40 minutes swapping colors in the egi section, only to end up grabbing a few because 'they look popular.' I'm talking about you.

You pile five or six into your basket looking satisfied, but once you're out in the field, you freeze up, thinking, 'I don't know what to cast.' Do you realize the contradiction in that?

Today, I'm going to put an end to that hesitation once and for all.

The answer is simple: just two.

The Egi-Oh K Size 3.0 in 'Gunkan Green' and 'Muramura Cherry.' Why can these two logically conquer every situation? Forget emotional arguments, social media reviews, or shop clerk recommendations. I will prove it to you beyond any doubt, using the physics of light and the biological facts of bigfin reef squid.

By the time you finish reading this, your egi case will finally be organized.

First, a fact you need to know: Bigfin reef squid do not see 'color'.

'Wait, but isn't color important?'

Yes, it is. But for a completely different reason than you think.

The world as seen through the eyes of a bigfin reef squid

I'm going to get a bit technical, but nothing starts until you understand this. As revealed by fisheries research institutions like Mie University, most cephalopods, including bigfin reef squid, do not possess the polychromatic cone cells that humans have. (Reference: Fisheries biological findings on cephalopod color vision. If you're interested, look up 'cephalopod color vision'.)

In other words, a squid's vision is essentially monochrome.

The colorful world we see under the shop lights—where we get excited thinking, 'This orange is flashy and has high appeal' or 'This pink is easy to see'—doesn't reach the squid.

This isn't just a philosophy; it's logic.

What the squid actually perceives

So, what is the squid looking at? The answer is 'light-dark contrast'.

It is simply a matter of whether the egi is "bright or dark" against the background seawater. It is not about hue. The physical difference between "emitting light (bright)" and "absorbing light to become a silhouette (dark)" is what stimulates the squid's optic nerves.

The essence of color selection is not "what color it is," but a binary question of whether the light behavior is "bright or dark."

Related Article:For more details, I have thoroughly explained this in "[The Final Conclusion on Egi Selection] Does Color Matter? The Scientific Logic of Choosing by 'Sinking Speed' and 'Acoustics'." If you want to fundamentally rethink your eging, go read that first.

Why the "Egi-Oh K Size 3.0" must be the platform

Before we talk about color, there is one more premise that must be cleared.

If the vessel is broken, the bullet is meaningless.

Hydro Fin—Eliminating wobble through fluid dynamics

Do you know about the small, transparent protrusion on the back of the belly of the Egi-Oh K (Yamashita)? That is the "Hydro Fin."

It is not just for decoration. The role of that protrusion is to suppress a fluid phenomenon called "Karman vortex" that occurs when the egi sinks through the water. A Karman vortex is a regular row of vortices generated behind an object, which causes the egi to yaw left and right or wobble up and down.

The flat bottom and Hydro Fin of the Egi-Oh K function like a ship's rudder to cut through these vortices, physically bringing the wobble during the fall to near zero. This is the true identity of the "secret to stability" that Yamashita talks about.

The fall is not a "moment to feed"

Listen to my words here.

What happens if the egi wobbles or emits strange vibrations during the fall? A pressured squid, in the moment it is hesitating to grab it, senses that "something is wrong" and loses interest. That is all.

The fall with high straight-line stability achieved by the Egi-Oh K's Hydro Fin is a physical device designed to maximize the precision of this "forced execution command." No matter how excellent the warhead you load, you will not hit the target if the gun barrel is warped.

The Golden Ratio of Size 3.0, 16g, and Approximately 3 sec/m

The official specs for the Egi-Oh K Size 3.0 are a total length of 90mm, a weight of 16g, and a sink rate of approximately 3 sec/m.

This 3 sec/m fall rate is the most standard sink speed in eging. It covers a wide depth range from shallow areas to mid-depths, and this specific balance of mass and speed allows the hydro-fin's posture stabilization effect to function most effectively. It is a benchmark value that can handle both large spring squid and young autumn squid.

Related Article:If you want to deeply understand how to use different falls, read this too: "[The Final Conclusion on Falls] 90% of your catch is decided here. The absolute law of using 'tension' and 'free' falls based on physics."

The Optimal Solution for a Two-Egi Limit: The "Weapon of Light" and the "Weapon of Darkness"

This is where we get to the main point.

If a squid's vision is monochrome and can only perceive contrast, there is only one condition required for the two you bring.

To prepare optically perfect opposites.

There is no point in carrying two oranges or two pinks. Both fall into the same category of "medium-brightness warm colors" and share the same physical properties. You would just be carrying two colors that don't catch fish.

What you need are the "side that emits light" and the "side that absorbs light"—these two.

■ Muramura Cherry → Daytime, clear water, sunny weather → Light contrast (luminescence)
■ Gunkan Green → Dawn/dusk, low light, cloudy, rain, wary squid → Dark contrast (silhouette)

With these two, you can completely divide and cover the variable of light intensity.

[The Weapon of Light] Muramura Cherry: Keimura converts ultraviolet rays into visible light

The body of the Muramura Cherry is "Keimura (fluorescent purple)."

What Keimura does is absorb ultraviolet (UV) rays, which penetrate deeper into the water than visible light, and radiate visible light itself. It is self-luminescent.

In daytime or clear water conditions, the surrounding seawater acts as a bright background. When you throw an "object glowing from within" into that, it appears to the squid's optic nerves as an intense "light contrast." It is an active weapon that is highly visible even from a distance and actively triggers the predatory switch of curious squid.

I cast this every time as my "daytime special forces leader." If it's clear and bright, I tie this on first. It's not about theory; it's because it consistently delivers results.

[The Dark Weapon] Gunkan Green: The Red Tape Absorbs Light to Create a Silhouette

Gunkan Green (006) features a red tape base.

The wavelength of red has the physical property of being absorbed and attenuated faster than any other color underwater. During the dim light of dawn or dusk, or in low-light conditions on cloudy days, this red tape absorbs ambient light, defining the entire jig as a pitch-black "silhouette" (shadow).

In other words, this jig does not glow. It does not assert itself. It simply exists quietly in the water as a black shadow with solid mass.

Why does that catch fish?

Squid that have been pressured and become wary, or those that have repeatedly rejected unnatural reflected light and flashy actions, instinctively fear things that are "too bright" or "move too much." For such squid, Gunkan Green, which presents only a uniform silhouette, becomes the ultimate passive appeal that does not trigger their wariness.

This actually happened.

I once went fishing at night with a friend who believed that the more colors you have, the better.When the sun began to set and the sky turned a scorched red, I silently had him tie on a Gunkan Green. He looked at me as if to ask, "Will this really catch anything?" but he hooked a bigfin reef squid on his second cast.

He looked at me with an expression of disbelief. I just told him, "It's exactly as the logic dictates."

These two colors are a "binary strategy"

The digital world can represent all information using only combinations of 0 and 1.

Choosing colors for eging is the same. By preparing only these two values—"bright" (glow) or "dark" (silhouette)—against the variable of light intensity, you can cover every lighting condition in the field.

Increasing the number of jigs you bring is not "freedom of choice," but an increase in "indecision." Limiting yourself to two is not a constraint. It is a decision to completely eliminate the noise of hesitation and focus on the physical laws of the ocean.

Mastering the two: Field operation by situation

I understand the logic. So, how should I actually act?

How to approach a sunny day game

The sun is high and the tide is clear. Tie on Muramura Cherry first. These are the conditions where Keimura luminescence functions best. Trust the Hydro Fin of the Egi Oh K, and focus firmly on the fall after your jerk. No extra actions are needed. The command has already been sent to the squid.

Timing the switch from dusk to night

When the color of the sky begins to change, that is your signal to switch. The moment the light intensity starts to drop, change to Gunkan Green. Do not think, 'It's still bright, just a little longer.' The prime time of dusk is short. Switching early allows you to maximize that window.

What to do before using Gunkan Green on pressured squid

Check this before the color. Is the fall posture correct?

Are you using PE 0.6 line? Lines of 0.8 or thicker increase water resistance and ruin the Hydro Fin design of the Egi Oh K. No matter how correct your color choice is, it is meaningless if the vessel is compromised.

Related Article:The detailed rationale for line selection is here: '[The Final Conclusion on Lines] Why is 0.6 the Only Choice for Eging? The Physics of '45-Degree Stability' Derived from Fluid Dynamics'

If you are adding a third one

There is the option of adding one Egi Oh K Shallow (approx. 6 sec/m) or Super Shallow (approx. 8 sec/m). This is effective in shallow areas with seaweed or in situations where squid are suspended above the mid-range. However, that is a conversation for a third lure. First, complete your two-lure setup.

Three mistakes you must not make

Let's confirm this one last time.

❌ Half-hearted color rotation → ⭕️ Stick with the same egi until the light intensity changes

'I haven't had a bite in a while, so I'll change colors' is the worst possible mindset. Question whether there is a problem with your fall posture or if your range is correct first. If the light intensity hasn't changed, there is no reason to change the egi.

❌ Destroying the fall with PE 0.8 or thicker → ⭕️ Utilize the design with 0.6

'I used a thicker line because I was afraid it would snap'—that cowardly mental block is killing the design of the Egi Oh K. The steady, wobble-free fall created by the Hydro Fin only functions when the water resistance of the line is minimized.

❌ Scattering squid with excessive jerking → ⭕️ Leave it to the Egi after the slack jerk

"That jerking is scattering the squid." After a slack jerk using line slack, transition firmly into the fall. The Egi-Oh K creates a stable fall. You just need to stay out of the way.

Summary—Limiting yourself to two isn't a restriction

Let's organize this.

I have proven three things in today's article.

① Bigfin reef squid are monochromatic and only perceive "light-dark contrast"—so the correct answer for color is a binary choice of "light" or "dark".

② The Egi-Oh K Size 3.0 is the perfect vessel for delivering that bullet—the hydro-fin perfectly stabilizes the fall posture, delivering the forced execution command to the squid without errors.

③ Muramura Cherry and Gunkan Green perfectly embody that binary choice—by covering the variable of light intensity as 0 or 1 through luminescence (light) and absorption (dark).

Hesitation is noise. By narrowing it down to two, you can finally focus solely on the fall posture and the flow of the tide. That is the true value of this "two-lure limit."

Look at the light intensity and use the two accordingly. That alone will end your color confusion today.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the biggest difference between the Egi-Oh K and other egi?

A: The point that it physically eliminates wobbling during the fall.

▼Details: The straight-line stability created by the hydro-fin and flat bottom is a structural feature not found in other egi. While many egi are designed to lure with flashy dart actions, the Egi-Oh K is built with a subtractive design philosophy of "not letting the egi make unnecessary movements." This stability is most effective against pressured, wary squid. Well, those who haven't used it will understand once they try it.

Q: In what situations should I use Gunkan Green?

A: It is the priority egi for all low-light situations: dawn/dusk, low light, cloudy weather, rain, and wary squid.

▼Details: The red tape absorbs wavelengths underwater, defining the entire egi as a silhouette (shadow). Because it doesn't emit light itself, it doesn't give wary squid any unnecessary sense of discomfort, quietly showing its presence. Gunkan Green is the kind of egi that catches fish in such unbelievable moments that you'll wonder, "Why this color?" It is also the type of egi where you understand the logic only after you've caught something.

Q: Tell me the conditions where Muramura Cherry is effective.

A: If it's daytime, clear water, or sunny weather where ultraviolet rays reach underwater, tie this on first.

▼Details: The Keimura (UV) body absorbs ultraviolet rays and emits visible light. In other words, it glows spontaneously. In daytime or clear water conditions where the surrounding seawater acts as a bright background, the contrast of an Egi glowing from within is particularly intense. It is an aggressive color that can assert its presence even to squid at a distance. It is used so often that if you are in doubt, this is the one to tie on first.

Q: When should I use the Shallow and Super Shallow versions of the Egi Oh K?

A: Use them in situations where squid are suspended in the surface to mid-water layers, or in shallow areas such as seaweed beds.

▼Details: While the standard model sinks at about 3 seconds/meter, the Shallow sinks at about 6 seconds/meter, and the Super Shallow at about 8 seconds/meter, making their descent slow. Think of these as a third option to add when you want to trace over seaweed or when the squid are suspended and the standard model sinks too deep. This is a consideration only after you have finalized your two-lure setup.

Q: Won't a two-lure limit make it impossible to respond to all situations?

A: It is actually the opposite. Having five lures means you are not responding effectively.

▼Details: Increasing color variations only increases 'indecision,' which robs you of your focus on the field. Gunkan Green and Muramura Cherry cover the physical extremes regarding the variable of light intensity. The only simple question you need to ask to use these two correctly is, 'Which way is the light intensity right now?'

If you want to become a more successful angler

The logic discussed in this article is not just about one Egi Oh K lure. The physics of the fall, line resistance, and the visual characteristics of squid—it is all connected.

On my note, I systematically write articles about such 'Eging that catches fish through physics and logic.' If you follow me, you will be able to read new articles as they are released. Feel free to take a look if you feel like it.

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