What is the appeal of "Miso" prepared during the coldest season? Secrets to making delicious miso, taught by a fermentation expert
Hello,
this time, I would like to introduce "Kan-jikomi Miso" (cold-prepared miso), which is prepared during this specific season, among the various types of "miso," a fermented food deeply rooted in Japanese food culture.
When is the "coldest season"?
The "coldest season" is one of the 24 solar terms and refers to the coldest time of winter. Specifically, it is the approximately one-month period from Shokan (around January 5th) to Setsubun (around February 3rd). It is the season when the temperature is at its lowest and the air is clearest in the year.
Why is it good to prepare miso during this season?
There are three scientifically sound reasons why it has been said since ancient times that "miso should be made during the coldest season."
Suppressing the growth of unwanted bacteria
The thing to be most careful about when making miso is unwanted bacteria such as mold and putrefactive bacteria. During the cold season when temperatures are low, these bacteria in the air are less active, so you can minimize the risk of contamination during the preparation process.Slow maturation
By maturing it slowly at a low temperature, the amino acids and aromatic components that provide the umami of miso are generated over time. By avoiding rapid fermentation and following the cycle where the temperature gradually rises from spring to summer, it finishes with a deep, mellow flavor.Suppressing mold growth
Since the temperature remains low for several months after preparation, you can suppress the growth of mold that tends to form on the surface. A major advantage unique to this season is that it is difficult for even beginners to fail.
Basic Miso Preparation Recipe
Now, let's actually try making cold-prepared miso. This time, I will introduce how to make the most popular "Rice Miso."
Ingredients (for approximately 4kg of finished product)
Soybeans (dried): 1kg
Rice Koji (fresh koji or dried koji): 1kg
Natural salt: 450g (salt concentration approx. 12.5%)
Soybean boiling liquid: appropriate amount
Preparation container: about 5 liters (plastic, ceramic, wooden bucket, etc.)
Disinfectant alcohol: appropriate amount (for disinfecting containers and hands)
How to make
Soak soybeans in water
Wash the soybeans well and soak them in plenty of water (more than 3 times the amount of soybeans) overnight (18 hours or more is a guideline). Wait until the soybeans absorb the water, change from an oval shape to a plump shape, and become soft to the center.
[Pro tip] Since the water is cold in winter, the key is to soak them for a longer time.
2. Boil the soybeans
Put them on the heat with the water they were soaked in, and boil them until soft while removing the scum. A guideline is when they can be easily crushed by twisting them lightly with your fingertips (the hardness that can be crushed by pinching between your thumb and little finger).
If using a pressure cooker: about 20 to 30 minutes
For a regular pot: About 3 to 4 hours
*Since the cooking liquid will be used later, save about 1 to 2 cups.
3. Make "salt-mixed koji"
Place the rice koji and salt in a bowl and mix well by rubbing them together with your hands. Break up any clumps of koji to ensure the salt is evenly distributed.
4. Mash the soybeans
Mash the cooked soybeans while they are still hot. Place them in a thick plastic bag and step on them, or use a masher or food processor.
[Pro tip] Leaving a few chunks gives it a homemade texture.
5. Mix everything together
Once the mashed soybeans have cooled to body temperature, add the salt-mixed koji and combine. Be careful, as the koji bacteria will die if it is too hot.
If it is too dry, add the reserved cooking liquid little by little until it reaches the consistency of an earlobe.
6. Pack into a container
To remove air, form the miso into balls the size of tennis balls. Throw the miso balls forcefully into the bottom of a clean container and press down firmly with your fist to remove any air.
[Important] The most important point is to pack it without gaps, as air can cause mold.
7. Protect the surface
After leveling the surface, sprinkle a small amount of salt (not included in the ingredients) around the edges to prevent mold. Place plastic wrap directly onto the surface, and place a weight equivalent to 20-30% of the miso's weight on top.
Aging period and when to eat
Store in a cool place away from direct sunlight with minimal temperature fluctuations.
When to eat: After 6 months to 1 year.
Enjoying the process: Fermentation begins in the spring, and as it passes through the summer, the color deepens and the aroma improves significantly. Taste it after six months, and if it is to your liking, move it to the refrigerator to stop the fermentation.
Summary
Miso prepared during the coldest season is the most luxurious and foolproof method, aligning with the natural cycle. There is an irreplaceable joy in watching the miso you prepared yourself slowly become "the taste of our home" over time.