Sharing the Bounty of Fieldwork: Tasting Tokushima Ramen in the Home of Awa Ningyo Joruri

Last year, I was in charge of reporting on puppet theater in other prefectures. During that time, I couldn't suppress the urge to experience the atmosphere of Tokushima, where Ningyo Joruri was once most prosperous, firsthand. That was the impulse I felt.

There is no time like the present. I headed to Tokushima.
In my travels to visit the performing arts and history of a region, I have a personal rule that I hold dear. It is to taste the local food with a mindful heart.. I believe that food culture is also a magnificent part of culture, woven together by the climate and the lives of the people.

That is how I encountered the soul food that Tokushima prides itself on, Tokushima Ramen.

A Post-War Story Breathing Within a Bowl

This dish, affectionately known locally as "Chuka Soba," is said to have been born from post-war street stall culture. Its name became famous nationwide when the long-established shop "Inotani" opened a branch at the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum in 1998.

There are three types of Tokushima Ramen: white, yellow, and brown. The shops I visited this time, "Inotani" and "Todai," are both popular establishments representing the brown (black) style.

Brown (Black) Style
A pork bone soy sauce base. Characterized by a rich soup and sweet and spicy pork belly. This is the representative type imagined nationwide as "Tokushima Ramen."

White Style
A style that developed around Komatsushima. While it has a pork bone base, it is relatively light with a mellow flavor.

Yellow Style
A clear soup that utilizes the umami of chicken bones and vegetables. It has a flavor similar to old-fashioned Chinese noodles.

I gasped when I saw the bowl brought to me. A rich pork bone soy sauce soup, sweet and spicy stewed pork belly, and a raw egg sitting in the center. Its appearance is somewhat reminiscent of "sukiyaki."

I decided to visit two famous shops that are indispensable when talking about the history of Tokushima Ramen.

The Standard Taste, The Vibrant Taste

First, I went to "Inotani," which can be called a sacred place.
Once I took a sip, I understood the taste. The rich soup and the sweet and spicy meat complemented each other as they went down my throat. It had the style of a "standard" that was unpretentious yet unshakable. It was a clean taste that made me instantly understand why it has supported the stomachs and hearts of the local people for so many years.

Next, I headed to the lively "Todai."

Although the basic composition should be the same, the impression you get is surprisingly different. This one is more powerful and quite rich. It has an addictive quality, much like the soup at Tenkaippin. If you crack in the complimentary raw egg, the richness of the soup increases even further, accelerating your appetite.

While all operating under the same 'Tokushima Ramen' banner, each shop possesses such vivid individuality. It feels similar to the depth of Ningyo Joruri, where even with the same performance, the way the puppets are manipulated and the rhythm of the narration differ depending on the troupe.

At the end of the fieldwork

I encountered the traditional performing art of Awa Ningyo Joruri and learned about the stories that the land has continued to protect. And through the food culture of Tokushima Ramen, I touched upon the vitality of the people living there today.

The activities of people breathing on stage and the daily lives visible through the steam. This trip, where I was able to taste both, became an incredibly rich 'fieldwork' experience for me.

To know history is to know the present. To taste culture is to love that land.

By the way, I was a fan of that powerful Ramen Todai style.

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