About Ueno Toshogu

In 1617, the year after the death of Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542-1616), Toshogu was built in Nikko. The name Toshogu comes from Ieyasu's posthumous title, Tosho Daigongen, which was modeled after the sun goddess Amaterasu Omikami. In 1618, a Toshogu was also established at Momijiyama within Edo Castle. Later, in 1623, Todo Takatora (1556-1630) set up a shrine on Ueno Hill, which was his own residential land, to provide commoners with an opportunity to worship near Edo; this was the beginning of Ueno Toshogu.
After Takatora's death, the site continued to be developed over many years. The large stone torii gate that still remains at the entrance of Toshogu dates back to 1633 and is an Important Cultural Property (I suddenly recalled that the stone torii gate at Shitennoji Temple in Osaka, built in 1294, is a valuable example of an old torii, and this stone torii here also conveys a long history). The five-story pagoda, which remains within Ueno Zoo to the right of the Toshogu shrine buildings as the five-story pagoda of Kaneiji Temple, originally belonged to Toshogu and was built in 1639. It is a three-bay, five-story pagoda. It has a copper tile roof and stands 36.4 meters tall.
→ About Ueno Kaneiji Temple
Finally, the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu (1604-1651), had the Ueno Toshogu shrine buildings constructed in 1651. It is built in the Gongen-zukuri style, consisting of a main hall, a worship hall, and a connecting hall. In addition to the main buildings, the surrounding Karamon gate, Sukibei (lattice fence), and copper lanterns all date back to 1651 (designated as an Important Cultural Property in April 1911).
Sculptures of dragons by Hidari Jingoro can be seen on the Karamon gate, and there are wall paintings by Kano Tanyu in the worship hall (Golden Hall). The numerous stone lanterns donated by various daimyo are also interesting.
Emile Guimet's "Promenades japonaises" (translated by Yoshiko Okamura, Kadokawa Sophia Bunko, 2019) is a record of Guimet's visit to Japan in 1876. While reading the section about his visit to Ueno (pp. 63-72 of the same translation), I discovered a sketch of a relief that still remains at Toshogu (see the plate on p. 70 of the same translation). I realized that Guimet had indeed visited this place.

Incidentally, the following haiku by Masaoka Shiki (1867-1902) is said to describe the stone pavement of the approach here.
Autumn loneliness, a caterpillar crawls along the stone pavement
Finally, what I would like to highlight about this space is not the gold-leaf-covered shrine buildings, but the approach through the lush green trees from the stone torii gate. It is a precious space where one can feel removed from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Furthermore, Torahiko Terada (1878-1935) happened to be in Ueno to see an art exhibition on September 1, 1923, when he encountered the Great Kanto Earthquake. He moved from the exhibition hall to Toshogu and recorded in detail the state of Ueno Toshogu immediately after the earthquake.
"When I parted from Mr. T and walked toward the front of Toshogu, a strange, moldy smell hit my nose. Looking up at the sky, I could see thick dust flying from the direction of Shitaya. I thought that a great number of houses must have collapsed, and at the same time, I intuitively felt that all of Tokyo might catch fire. Looking into the grounds from in front of Toshogu, every single stone lantern had fallen over to the north like dominoes. The pillars of the large torii gate were standing, but the upper crossbeam was coming loose, yet it was precariously held in place without falling. The waiters from Seiyoken were gathered at the base of a large cherry tree. I learned later that the head of the Great Buddha had fallen off, but I did not notice it at all at the time." (From "Earthquake Diary")

The pair of guardian dogs (komainu) were donated in 1914 by the stonemason Hachiemon Sakai. I felt a little doubtful about whether guardian dogs are usually present at Toshogu, but they were donated during the Taisho period and accepted.

Access: 5-minute walk from JR Ueno Station