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[Visiting Shrines and Temples] Kyoto's "Suzumushi-dera": A Place Enveloped in the Sound of Bell Crickets and the Kindness of Jizo

Hello.
This time, I would like to introduce a wonderful temple that warms the hearts of its visitors all year round.
Located in the lush nature of Arashiyama, Kyoto, this place is filled with the beautiful sounds of "suzumushi" (bell crickets) throughout the year, even though they are typically autumn insects. While it is affectionately known as "Suzumushi-dera," its formal name is "Myotokuzan Kegon-ji Temple."

We first visited this temple at the end of May 2015, when the fresh green leaves were dazzling. Having heard rumors that "there is a temple where you can hear the sound of bell crickets all year round and listen to very interesting sermons," my wife and I decided to go and see it for ourselves.
It was a leisurely 20-minute walk from the nearest station, Matsuo-taisha Station on the Hankyu Arashiyama Line. When we arrived, what caught our eyes was a long line of visitors stretching down to the stone steps. My wife and I looked at each other, thinking, "We might have to wait quite a while," but it seemed the previous sermon had just finished, and the line soon began to move slowly.


In front of the Suzumushi-dera temple gate

As we climbed the stone steps, which were surrounded by green leaves, one by one, we noticed a Jizo statue standing beside the temple gate. At the time, we didn't know much about that Jizo statue.
The Jizo's name is "Kofuku Jizo-san" (The Happiness-Granting Jizo Bodhisattva). He holds a khakkhara (staff) in his right hand and a wish-fulfilling jewel in his left. Most notably, however, are his feet. While most Buddhist statues are barefoot, this Kofuku Jizo-san is the only one in Japan who wears "waraji" (straw sandals).
Why does he wear straw sandals? It is said that it is because the Jizo walks step by step to each of our homes to grant our wishes.

Kofuku Jizo-san

When we were finally guided into the main hall, a beautiful chorus of thousands of bell crickets was echoing throughout.
And then, it was time for the long-awaited sermon. As the rumors suggested, the head priest's talk was truly full of humor, and the main hall was filled with warm laughter from start to finish. The 30 minutes passed literally in the blink of an eye. Since it was quite a long time ago, I have forgotten the specific details, but the "warm atmosphere" that filled that space remains deeply in my heart even now.


Tea and sweets served during the sermon

During that sermon, we were taught the correct way to make a wish to Kofuku Jizo-san and how to use the "Happiness Amulet." We received our amulets, made "just one" wish to the Jizo as we were leaving, and left the temple wrapped in a warm, lingering feeling.

Time passed, and in November 2023, we visited for our second pilgrimage.
Amidst the colorful autumn scenery, we returned the amulet we had received previously with gratitude, listened to the sermon again, and received a new one.
"Someday, Kofuku Jizo-san will surely walk all the way to us wearing his straw sandals."
Imagining it that way makes my daily life feel a little more precious. Even now, that amulet is quietly and carefully waiting for its turn inside my wallet. My wish hasn't been granted yet, but waiting for the day the Jizo-san slowly makes his way to us is also a happy time. Once my wish is granted, I plan to go on a trip with my wife to offer our thanks.


Do you also have any recommended gods or Buddhas, or favorite places that make your heart feel at ease?
If you'd like, I would be happy if you could tell me in the comments. My wife and I would love to visit your special places someday.
Thank you for reading until the end.


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