[Pickles & Preserved Foods at Home] #48: "Japanese Pepper Paste" that is easy to make and delicious even with frozen Japanese pepper from last year

Lately, I've been missing the flavor of Japanese pepper (sansho). Perhaps it's because I recently saw sansho leaves at a farm stand and thought they would be delicious as tempura. I miss that refreshing, tingling sensation that hits the nose. Maybe it's also because the humidity has been rising.
Last year, I bought plenty of fresh sansho berries and enjoyed them as tsukudani, sansho soy sauce, and oil-marinated preserves. Of course, I also make my favorite chirimen sansho frequently throughout the year using small portions of frozen sansho berries. Making it yourself allows you to adjust the flavor and texture to your liking, and above all, it's delicious.

However, despite being such a fan of sansho, the frequency of use drops significantly after the hot season passes, and I didn't end up using the frozen portion as much as I thought I would. Just as I was wondering if I had bought too much, I happened to see a recipe name that caught my eye on X. It was "Japanese Pepper Paste," and from the reliable "Kyo no Ryori" (Today's Cooking) no less. The instructor is Takako Yokoyama, who excels at simple cooking that brings out the natural flavors and characteristics of ingredients without unnecessary fuss—this is a sure thing.

The linked recipe was simpler than I imagined. Just boil the sansho berries in salted water over high heat for about 30 seconds, stop the cooking in cold water, grind them in a mortar, and mix in a little barley shochu. It's extremely simple; as long as you have sansho berries and salt, you can start right away. It's much easier and more convenient than making yuzu kosho.

So, I gave it a try immediately.

<Japanese Pepper Paste>
1. First, remove the berries from the branches. This tedious task is actually the most time-consuming part. That's why last year, I portioned the berries I wouldn't use immediately into small freezer bags while still on the branches, and then packed them into a larger freezer bag to keep air out. Freezing makes them somewhat easier to remove than when fresh, so I recommend freezing them for this reason as well.

2. Boil water in a small pot, add a little salt once it boils, and blanch the sansho berries. 30 seconds over high heat is the guideline. After 30 seconds, turn off the heat, drain in a colander, and cool in cold water. Once cooled, drain again and wipe off the moisture thoroughly with a paper towel or cloth.

3. Put the dried sansho berries into a mortar and grind them well with a pestle, including the skins, until fine.

You could use a food processor, but using a mortar results in a much better aroma and a smoother texture (this is based on my comparison and reflection from when I made hebesu kosho, not yuzu kosho, in a food processor).

Grind, grind, grind, grind. I like tasks that allow me to clear my mind like this, so it doesn't bother me. It takes a fair amount of time (maybe 20 to 30 minutes), so I recommend listening to your favorite music or the radio while doing it. Being enveloped in the scent of sansho is very calming.

4. Once it becomes fine, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of shochu (35% alcohol or higher) until the mixture reaches a suitable smoothness, mix well, transfer to a storage container, and pack it tightly with a spoon or similar tool to ensure no air gets in. It's ready to eat immediately.

This has such an irresistibly good aroma! And it's delicious. The aroma itself is quite strong (perhaps because it's freshly made), but the taste isn't as spicy as one might imagine; it has a lingering, moderate tingling sensation that makes you want to add it to everything. Use it as a substitute for wasabi on sashimi or kamaboko, as a condiment for salted yakisoba or ramen like yuzu kosho, or serve it with grilled chicken or fish. At this time of year, it goes perfectly with grilled bamboo shoots, and of course, it's a classic pairing for eel. Above all, since it's fresh and contains absolutely no unnecessary additives, it has a very wide range of applications. It would probably be delicious mixed with mayonnaise, too.

The original recipe says it can be stored in the refrigerator for six months, but since I used frozen sansho berries this time, I think the shelf life will differ from using fresh ones. Besides, the aroma is definitely better when freshly made, so I think it's good to make and enjoy small amounts frequently.
Homemade is simply better in terms of aroma. While removing the sansho berries from the branches and while using the mortar, a very pleasant scent of sansho drifts through the area, which in itself puts me in a good mood. That is the joy of handiwork.

Since you can easily make it even from a small amount like this, if you see sansho berries at a supermarket or elsewhere, I highly recommend trying to make this paste. You rarely see sansho paste for sale, and it's delicious!