Saint Germain In-Depth: The 'Rugged Functional Beauty' Distinct from the Kelly Clasp
Introduction
When it comes to the most iconic ankle boots in the Hermès shoe collection, the "Saint Germain" is undoubtedly the one. The hardware shining on the ankle might at first glance look identical to the "Kelly" clasp on the bags. However, upon closer observation, there is a decisive difference derived from its nature as footwear (equestrian gear) rather than a bag accessory.
In this article, we will dissect this masterpiece boot while delving into the philosophy of Creative Director Pierre Hardy and the reasons behind it being "Made in Italy," as explained by the head of production.
Overview: Audio Commentary / Image Commentary
We have picked out the key parts of this article. If you want to grasp the content quickly, please check out this audio commentary and the images.
Audio Commentary
Image Commentary
Chapter 1: Origins: Pierre Hardy and the 'Rive Gauche' Revolution
The name "Saint Germain" is derived from the Saint-Germain-des-Prés district on the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) of Paris. Named after this "city of intellect and freedom" where Sartre and de Beauvoir once exchanged ideas, these boots have reigned as an absolute staple of Hermès women's shoes since the 2000s.
The Reformer Since 1990: Pierre Hardy
These boots were created by Pierre Hardy, who has served as the Artistic Director of the shoe department since 1990です。 元々美術とダンスを学んだ彼は、靴を「身体を支える彫刻」と捉えています。彼がデザインしたサンジェルマンは、単なるクラシックなブーツではなく、「現代女性のための甲冑」のような、鋭さと強さを秘めています。
The Symbol of 2010: The Sèvres Store (Left Bank Store)
The spiritual pillar of these boots is the "Hermès Sèvres store," which opened in 2010. Renovated from the Lutetia swimming pool built in 1935, this store became a place that symbolizes "Left Bank innovation and playfulness" in contrast to the heavy tradition of the flagship store (Right Bank). The "Saint Germain" boot has established itself as an icon that literally embodies this Left Bank spirit (esprit) from the ground up.
Chapter 2: Structural Comparison: The Decisive Difference from the Kelly Clasp (Touret)
The "Kelly Clasp (Touret)" and the "Saint Germain Clasp" are like siblings, but their structures differ due to their intended uses.
1. Presence or Absence of a Base Plate
Bag (Kelly): The hardware on a Kelly bag consists of a metal plate attached to the tip of the strap (croie) and a rotating clasp (touret) on the body side. It is fundamentally a structure designed to "sandwich the leather."
Shoes/Jewelry (Saint Germain): The greatest feature of the Saint Germain is that the rotating clasp sits on top of an independent rectangular or oval metal plate (base).The ankle moves vigorously during walking and is subjected to strong tension. Because there is a risk of tearing if the hardware is embedded directly into the leather, it is necessary to "distribute the force using a metal base."
2. 'Closing' vs. 'Tightening'
While bag hardware is designed to 'close' a lid, the Saint Germain hardware is designed to 'hold and fit' the ankle. Its roots lie in the 1920s polo 'Jodhpur' boot, and it is an evolution of the buckle originally used to secure spurs.
Chapter 3: The Truth of Manufacturing: Why 'Made in Italy'?
For Hermès leather goods (bags and wallets), 'Made in France' is an absolute rule, but many women's shoes, including the Saint Germain, are stamped 'Made in Italy.' There is a clear reason for this, as stated by Guillaume de Seynes, the Executive Vice President of Manufacturing.
'It no longer exists in France'
In media interviews, he has clearly stated, 'Bags are made in France, but footwear needs Italy.' The reason is that 'the production chain (suppliers and artisan networks) for high-end women's footwear no longer exists in France, but it still remains in Italy.'
In Pursuit of the Ultimate Comfort
Especially in the technology of three-dimensionally molding 'soft, skin-clinging calfskin' like the Saint Germain, the craftsmanship (artigianato) of Italy (particularly the Veneto and Tuscany regions) is the best in the world. Hermès maintains its own workshops and partner tanneries in Italy, choosing an optimal solution that transcends borders as their approach.
Chapter 4: Sublimation into Jewelry and Styling
Because of its functional beauty, this 'boot hardware' was also reverse-imported into the jewelry line.
Bracelet Saint Germain
In leather bracelets, the Saint Germain hardware establishes a position of exquisite 'unisex functional beauty'—not as hard as the 'Collier de Chien' and not as dressy as the 'Kelly.' In particular, because the surface area of the metal plate is large, it is characterized by the ability to fully enjoy the texture of the silver or gold base metal.
The Magic of the 7cm Heel
As a boot, the Saint Germain typically adopts a 7cm stacked heel (a heel made of stacked leather). This is said to be the golden ratio for stability when walking on Parisian cobblestones and for making the legs look their most beautiful.
Conclusion: The Saint Germain is a Statement of 'Supporting the Feet'
If the Kelly buckle is for 'protecting' (the contents), the Saint Germain hardware is for 'supporting' (the body). A place where the intellect of the Left Bank of Paris, Italian craftsmanship, and Pierre Hardy's architectural sensibility intersect. That is the true identity of the small piece of hardware on your ankle.
Sources and References
Guillaume de Seynes (Hermès Executive): Interview with La Stampa, "The bag is French, but footwear needs Italy" (2021).
Pierre Hardy Official: Career retrospective and design philosophy (1990-present).
Hermès International: Le Monde d'Hermès, Press release for Hermès Rive Gauche (Sèvres) opening (2010).
Fashion History Archives: The evolution of Jodhpur boots.