Chronicles of the Mind's Eye: Visiting Ancient Temples with a White Cane - Vol. 3, Episode 11: 'Late Autumn in Banshu, the Ruins of Akashi Castle, and the Legacy of Prince Shotoku Living in Kakogawa'
Episode 11: 'Late Autumn in Banshu, the Ruins of Akashi Castle, and the Legacy of Prince Shotoku Living in Kakogawa'
The Sound of a White Cane Traveling Through Late Autumn in Banshu - Jini
A certain day in December 2024
In early December, when the passing autumn is deeply missed, our group of alumni gathered in the Higashi-Harima region, where a cold, piercing wind blows from the Harima Sea. This exploration was a journey through the historical corridor of Banshu, stretching from Akashi to Kakogawa. The season was at the threshold of transitioning from late autumn to early winter, and with the elegant irony of 'walking through Banshu in late autumn' in our hearts, we stepped into a new journey of local history, accompanied by the sound of my white cane tapping against the cold concrete.
Our meeting point was in front of the central ticket gate of JR Akashi Station, a modern elevated station. As I passed through the gate with the reliable guidance of my companions, the vast presence of the Akashi Castle ruins already reached me as an expansion of the air.
We headed toward Akashi Castle Park, located just a stone's throw from the station. Built by Ogasawara Tadazane in the fifth year of the Genna era, this castle has no main keep despite having a foundation, but its two national important cultural properties, the Tatsumi Turret and the Hitsujisaru Turret, which tower to the east and west, still convey its majesty today. As I climbed the slope to the vast site of the main enclosure while tapping my white cane, the cold wind from the Harima Sea, unobstructed by anything, mercilessly slapped my cheeks. Even though I could not see it, the strength of the wind and the vastness of the space allowed my mind's eye to vividly picture how important this castle was as a military stronghold for controlling the Saigoku Kaido road, overlooking the Akashi Strait and looking out toward Awaji Island.
During our stroll, we enjoyed Akashi's specialty, 'Akashi-yaki,' amidst the bustle in front of the gate. Known locally as 'Tamago-yaki,' it is dipped in piping hot dashi broth before being eaten. The rich flavor of the egg melts softly in the mouth, followed by the firm texture of the octopus hidden inside. The warmth of the dashi broth seeped into my body, which had walked up the long slope, and my chilled fingertips began to relax. The time spent gathered around the plates with my companions was the ultimate comfort of the journey before the arrival of the harsh winter.
Having enjoyed the castle and food of Akashi, we boarded a train heading west from Sanyo Electric Railway's Akashi Station. After about thirty minutes of being swayed by the rhythmic clattering transmitted through the train windows, we got off at Onoue-matsue Station. At Onoue Shrine, not far from the station, stands the famous 'Onoue Pine,' known for the legend of the Noh play 'Takasago.' When I touched the trunk of this ancient pine tree, which is said to have been replanted over many generations, the rough texture of the bark that had survived many years was transmitted heavily to my palm holding the white cane, and I felt a sense of solemnity at the mystery of nature's vitality.
Leaving the Onoue Pine, we finally headed to our main destination for the day, To-da-san Kakurin-ji Temple. This temple originated from a monastery built by Prince Shotoku at the command of Hata no Kawakatsu in the second year of the reign of Emperor Sushun, and it is one of the leading ancient temples known as the 'Horyu-ji of Harima.' Following our visit to Uzumasa last time, I could not help but feel my heart race at the strange fate of encountering the great footprints of the Hata clan here in the land of Banshu as well.
We passed through the mountain gate and stepped into the serene grounds. From beyond the sound of the gravel on the approach picked up by my white cane, the deep, profound incense scent unique to wooden architecture that has passed through a thousand years, emitted by the National Treasure Main Hall and Prince Shotoku Hall, drifted toward us. Relying on the descriptions of my companions, as we toured the temple grounds, I could picture in my mind the scene of the remaining autumn leaves, shining in the late autumn sunlight, vividly coloring the ancient temple buildings. The various designs that convey the architectural styles from the Heian period to the Kamakura period deeply moved my soul with the overwhelming silence and sense of harmony that the space possessed, even if I could not see them. The seeds of Buddhism that Prince Shotoku planted in this land were embodied by the hands of the Hata clan, and even now, after a thousand years, they still envelop this land of Harima. I bowed my head deeply and offered a prayer to that miraculous continuity of spirit.
Having deeply engraved the beauty of the temple buildings and autumn leaves in my mind's eye, we left Kakurin-ji as evening approached and walked further west, arriving at the lively dining district spreading out on the south side of JR Kakogawa Station. For our final gathering of the trip, we passed through the noren curtain of the lively 'Osaka Manmaru Kakogawa Branch.'
Entering the store, the lively energy of the secular world, filled with spirited voices and the savory smell of oil, welcomed us, a complete change from the silent world of the ancient temple. I sat at the same table with my usual alumni friends and shared drinks that soaked into my chilled body. From the vast ruins of Akashi Castle to the legend of the Onoue Pine, and the magnificent historical romance of Prince Shotoku and the Hata clan residing in Kakurin-ji, our words discussing the rich memories of the local history we traced throughout the day were endless.
Without the warm support of my companions, who always care about my awkward walking with a white cane, tell me about the steps, and describe the scenes in words, I would not have been able to taste this late autumn in Banshu so deeply, intellectually, and richly. With endless gratitude for my companions' thoughtfulness in my heart, I quietly savored the fact that a new, vivid page had been added to my inner chronicle of local history while tilting my cup amidst the bustle of the lively tavern.